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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 06:33 PM
  #31  
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Melted ...

Graham
(why should he be any different to the rest of us in Hell?)
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 07:39 PM
  #32  
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I wish people would stop mentioning meleted and gearboxs in this thread... you are all going to jinx me

whats the general opinion regards gear boxes - replace before they go or after - I have never launched the car since i have owned it, I ve never even had to put a new clutch in any car i have ever owned BUT the car does come back on a sunday afternoon feeling somewhat abused

Floyd - i know it has got serious, I phone up RCM they send with out even asking for the card number

must buy a house
must buy a house
must...........


now gearboxes
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 07:41 PM
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whats the general opinion regards gear boxes - replace before they go or after
leave it in till it smash's as it will be good fun to hear it break. plus as long as you dont put it in 3rd gear after you break it you will be able to drive home or to a garage to get a new one fitted
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 08:04 PM
  #34  
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Steve is right, drive it like you hate it and get used to 5500 rpm and dump the clutch...
http://www.dropshots.com/day.php?use...4&ctime=131625

Good luck.
A real gearbox is about £3K or a half way house about £1500.
Graham
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 12:17 PM
  #35  
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Rich just in case your interested "South Wales Scooby's" are having a RR day at Powerstation at the end of March if you wanted to try the car on the rollers now
It's posted in the Welsh Section if you want some more info

Simon
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 07:24 PM
  #36  
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Simon

i might just do that, but first rolling road will be Scoobyclinic as thats where i had it done last as powerstation was in the middle of their move last year

Today i ve been removing these


the 650's are in

was nice and easy to do, which makes a nice change after the turbo, took me about 3 hours but i still have one green braket to put back on - most anoying part was the battery was flat , been putting off buying a new one as I wasn't sure if the FMIC will need a smaller battery

http://www.turboxs.com/faq/stage4.htm - handy site for anyone doing the same as me


I did notice that the exhaust seems to be blowing a bit from the hiper to downpipe - I will order a propper 3 inch gasket unlike the metal spacer type thing that is in at the moment

Last edited by WRX_Rich; Feb 15, 2006 at 05:54 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 09:28 AM
  #37  
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Nice going Rich. Great write up and looking forward to the finished thing and graphs. sounds like you are in as much of a rush as i was!

Thank you for the kind words BTW, only just picked the thread up but will keep an eye on it now

When in March are you at Bobs? im back on March 4th in the afternoon.

Last edited by p1mark; Feb 15, 2006 at 09:33 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 10:50 AM
  #38  
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What you doing with the pinks (565's?) Rich? 1st dibsey please???

F
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 11:17 AM
  #39  
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You changing your fuels rails Floyd?
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 01:28 PM
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Maybe!

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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 06:14 PM
  #41  
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sorry pinks went ... had to make money for the front mount

P1mark, believe it or not i‘m there in the morning, Bob should really have his eye in with the turbo by the time he reaches you

the new fmic


it aint half thick


But nice new bling pipes from aps


also comes with a new coolant container so I won't need the smaller battery

Last edited by WRX_Rich; Feb 15, 2006 at 06:18 PM.
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 05:10 PM
  #42  
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so board last night

http://media.putfile.com/Richs-Subaru
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 12:52 AM
  #43  
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been a bit busy today - fitted the last ful rail braket ... bloody hastle that was, I was tempted just to leave it off when it just slipped on after 30 miniutes of undoing everything

then made a start of the front mount



to be honest this seems far easyier that the turbo, even if the instructions are a bit vauge

I took off the bumper with lights and grill... its nice and easy, all plastic pop studs

removed the bumper bar

offered up the aps and you guesed it, had to grind a good 20 mm off the bumper frame.. my angle grinder form homebase for £10 has been worth its weight in gold
a quick coat of hammerite to stop the rust

relocation of the horns and all fit together well, really good quality kit, I would recommend to anyone


then moved indoors to do the front bumper, was to dam cold to stay out side any longer

with a dremmel and stanly knife soon had the bumper looking good


fingers crossed I will get the rest sorted tomorrow - notice the mesh, still can't make up my mind

Last edited by WRX_Rich; Feb 25, 2006 at 12:56 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 07:01 AM
  #44  
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Keep it coming now your fingers have recovered.
More pics please!

Graham.
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Old Feb 25, 2006 | 12:55 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by WRX_Rich
Lol, good tune choice
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 05:51 PM
  #46  
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Well tomorrow was a long time coming

decided to go for mesh but painted it black - taken ages to sort with the priming etc



with some windscreen sealant from halfords im trying to get it to stick to the bumper



will see tomorrow how it looks, and if it sticks, not to confident at the moment

but the rest seems all done, apart from a leak between downpipe and hiper which I will sort tomorrow



The Aps fits like a dream, would recommend to anyone.

Its remap weekend coming up so bets on the final score on the rollers are been taken
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 12:57 PM
  #47  
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looking nice Rich.

I fibreglassed my mesh on so its goung nowhere, but i do know people who have siliconed it on and it holds fine. if you are worried put a couple of foam strips on the core so it pushes against the bumper edging.

will ask Bob how you got on, as im there in the afternon.
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 05:06 PM
  #48  
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Rich,

I have been reading and following this thread since it started and am very impressed on your write up and pictures, I have a 2002 WRX Bug and have similar mods except the FMIC and turbo (got a TD05 16G waiting to be fitted, but am thinking about the 18G ).

Just to say, well done mate and good luck with the remap, I'll be seeing Bob again when my bits are fitted, just making up an induction pipe for my GGR induction kit before I put the bits on.

Ross
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 08:59 PM
  #49  
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been busy today



new cold air thanks to homebase, could have been designed to fit, far better than the halford stuff i had before



think its all but done, I will get some finished photos tomorrow

P1mark - don't mention mesh, ended up in the bin the silicon wasn't good ... not bad but the time I had spent I wanted perfect got in a strop and ripped it out

might try fibreglass one day but not this month

Ross

go for the 18g this time last year I was in the same position and went fot the vf35... look at me now

with the induction kit, mines one of Bob's larger diameter trumpets, might be worth a look at

and make sure you get a project thread on the go

as a treat i just got my self one of these
http://www.harmankardon.com/drive-1/default2.aspx

its to stop me stripping the audio system out to make the car ligher... I know i should but I like my AC DC far to loud
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 10:33 PM
  #50  
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Nice iPod toy Rich

The only thing I'm worried about with the 18G is the standard internals falling out of the block!!! Although lots of people seem to be running pretty big power on the standard WRX's. Not sure if it would cope with the odd track day with that power or I'd need an oil cooler and FMIC


PS....

Don't want to get you worried, but my fully decat'ed and Tek3'd WRX (approx 275bhp and 50K miles from new, and never been 'launched') blew it's gearbox apart just before Xmas! A tooth cracked off and jammed the whole box, was low loaded home as I couldn't select a gear. Although I was told it was a fault with the moulding process from new.
Now got a P1 box and rear diff, don't get too worried, but just get some money in the "how long will my gearbox last" kitty
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 10:43 PM
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but is there any thing saying the p1 \ classic sti box is any stronger than our 5 speeds

i know they are different but stronger ?

if you follow nasioc many have been the 18g route, with little problems
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 12:28 PM
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I've been told the P1 box's are 'shot peened' and stronger than the UK WRX's.
Don't think they are massively stronger but hopefully strong enough for what I want.
The ratio's are very similar to a friends classic Jap WRX, approx 500rpm more than my original box, acceleration is a bit better in my opinion, especially at motorway speeds.

Sure there are loads of better options, but it suited me at the time, and I still like it.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 09:44 PM
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ahh well sat in the car today

quick drive round the block to make sure everything was fine... F**K, my speedy injector install seems to be a ***** up

the only think that I thought was easy has turned round to bite

I ve split one of the injector o rings - its weird as im sure they seemed fine when I ran the engine for 2 mins just after the injector install,

phoned Roger clarke and another ring will be here tomorrow.... you wouldn't believe how many place's I tried to get one

I wiped out all the injectors just to check - now they will all be installed lubing up both top and bottom o rings ... you live and learn

lucky i checked really as remap day is far to close for any more stupid mistakes

Last edited by WRX_Rich; Mar 2, 2006 at 09:48 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 09:57 PM
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I thought you made it sound easy. Its a bit of an **** to do. Which injector was it?(ie which cylinder)
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
I thought you made it sound easy. Its a bit of an **** to do. Which injector was it?(ie which cylinder)
they are the top feed PE650's... trust me it was a big ars to do the second time

do you think all I did wrong was not lub up the top o ring.....I lubed up the bottom one just not the small ( yes sounds obvoius now )at the top that attaches to the fuel rail

all comments welcome because tommorrow is my last day to get things all working

and the total amount of day spent is 8 9 will be tomorrow
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 10:18 PM
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should lube them both, its stops the dry ring sticking to the rail, then twisting or tearing.

Dont refit the green shields, throw em in the bin.
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
should lube them both, its stops the dry ring sticking to the rail, then twisting or tearing.

Dont refit the green shields, throw em in the bin.
that would have saved me a whole heap of time, they are much harder to re fit than they are to take off - the pile of left over bit was getting a bit high and thought i better re fit, will know for next time

thanks for you help... it all seriously helps
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Old Mar 2, 2006 | 11:39 PM
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should also mention

this is the problem i am getting with the downpipe

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=952169

looking like quick gasket as a temp fix if taking the mid and backbox off dosn't fix...

Last edited by WRX_Rich; Mar 2, 2006 at 11:48 PM.
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 08:05 PM
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well not been on here fo a while

mapping was all looking good, Bob scaled the induction and injectors

Time for the real mapping and it was quickly obvious there was a problem, the car was lucky to be hitting 1 bar by 4k6

We went back and had a check ( yes im starting to worry what I have done wrong)

Bob put a restirctor in the tubo pipe work and out again - no difference

back for another check ( yes Bob is not paid to get his hands dirty under the bonnet but he helped as much as he could) we could find no leaks and could hear no leaks.

sooo after hours of checking ( can't thank Bob enough for all the extra effort he put in ) i drove the car home, boost reponse is so slow.

Next steps are to order some decent hose clamps something like these
http://www.mikalor.co.uk/ and go over replacing the clamps on the intercooler pipework and making 100% sure there is no leak

Bob said he thinks the wastegate might not be sealing, but i want to make sure everything is working before I start removing turbos. ( i said never again)

to be honest one big worry I have is that as my cars still has the tgv's ( the reason why the turbo was such a bugger to fit) and this is stopping a good flow to the turbo

but hopefully i am very wrong and its just a pipe opening up on boost


This was a real downer had the usual why do i bother head on Thinking how am i going to sell the car

come on guys... what have I done wrong


p1mark - nice meeting you, I replyed to the pm but your mail box is full
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Old Mar 9, 2006 | 10:41 PM
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You might consider that the pre load on the actuator rod that opens the waste gate is too light.
I added a full 5mm more pressure (shorten the rod) and boost was better!
Worth a try before the **** job of taking a turbo off?
Graham
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