Andy.F

I would assume you are entitled to a warranty on the parts fitted, not sure how you would prove the parts caused the failure though ?

Decat or sports cat the downpipe, uprated fuelpump plus a remap for 310-330bhp.

Next stage would be a Helix or Sti8 intercooler plus an APS cold air induction kit for 330-350bhp

Next upgrade the turbo and injectors for 360-380bhp.

Then add FMIC and headers to run 380-400bhp

Thats as far as you would want to go on the std internals in my opinion.

Andy

scoobypick-updude

its 'normal', its a so called 'fault' with them, get it rebuild and ONLY RUN IT ON 98 OCTANE, or optimax, apparantly thats wot the fault is, it happaned 2 my dads

Gordo

It's only ever run on 97RON or better - easier said than done to run it just on Optimax (we lived in Scotland for 3 years where getting super unleaded was sometimes like looking for hens teeth!)

Kuro

gordo, not sure if this will apply to your P1 - but thinking back to my My00 days, the cambelt service was changed from 45k to 60k. The dealer said that this was determined by the chassis number (IIRC) having an x in it was 45k, and a Y in it was 60k. Mine was a later MY00 and hence 60k.

There were quite a few posts on this subject a while ago

rb5 286

iTrader: (2)

Gordo,

sorry to hear of the problems with the engine.

AFAIK there is no certain milage/time after a service that the dealer/garage can be blamed, it would be certainly at their discression to admit liability OR you had an independant garage/dealer prove that the engine failure was down to the people that did the service. (this would take time and cost you)

As you are covered by warranty hopefully the dealer will sort it out for you with no extra costs to you, they will keep quiet about any faults that were on their behalf.

I have many friends that are mechanics in dealerships, put it this way, I am scared of taking the RB5 to a dealers for services after some of the horror stories they tell me - I still take the KA & Focus to the Ford dealers purely for the warranty services but have any other work carried out by a company I know and trust and are the only ones allowed to work on my RB5 .


I can understand your point thinking its the dealers fault, I would blame them to with it being so close to the works carried out by them. Its trying to prove it thats the problem.




I hope its all sorted ASAP for you so your back on the road

rb5 286

iTrader: (2)

As for UK engines not running at high speeds for distances....

I have carried out the following:

- TMIC tilt conversion
- IC Scoop splitter (see below)
- STI TMIC

When I finally get my *** in gear I will be fitting the IC water spray.


IC Scoop splitter - Background

The intercooler for the un-initiated is a radiator which cools charge air in turbo engines . Turbo engines work (simply.) by forcing extra air (with correct fueling) into the engine. When the air is forced at pressure it is compressed which imparts energy (in this case heat) to the air. When air is heated it becomes less dense ,which means there are less molecules of its component part (Oxygen being among them). Less Oxygen means less burn so Intercoolers are used to cool the pressurised air and make it more dense. More density = more Oxygen =more Burn. (very simplified!)

Without the intercooler, power for the car would be greatly reduced, So if the intercooler isn't working at it's maximum efficiency then you could be losing potential power.

That's why on warm days Turbocharged cars seem a bit slower than normal.

Now on the Subaru Impreza, the air enters the bonnet scoop, and it has to 'bend' through ninety degrees to reach the intercooler. So as you can imagine air is fluid in its make up, so it cannot change direction just like that and as a result , the front part of the intercooler (nearest the bonnet scoop opening) doesn't receive much airflow. (figure 1.)



(figure 1.)



Obviously the best solution is to have the intercooler mounted vertical so as to receive maximum airflow ........ But ............. cost of such upgrades can be exceedingly prohibitive and time consuming.

So the only 'other' alternative is to 'Split' the airflow and redirect it over as much surface area of the intercooler as possible. The Splitter does just that, it splits the incoming air and directs it over more of the intercooler surface and so increases the efficiency of the intercooler. (figure 2.) which is where the Intercooler Splitter comes into it's own, because of the testing Peter McAlpine and others have done in Australia it can be shown that intercooler efficiency can rise by 4.2% (about 4 degrees Celsius reduction in intake temperatures).

Now you may be thinking that 4% is minimal, well yes, but it can be measured that it helps temperatures and has no other side effects. The only thing that can be said that feedback from people that have Splitters fitted, have reported back a small improvement in mid range. (not massive, just a small improvement!)



(figure 2.)

People also say that the car seemed sluggish (Down on power) on warmer days, but when the splitter was fitted it seemed to be back to its old self, i.e. less affected by 'warmer days'.

N.B. If you have a water spray system fitted, please be aware the splitter deflects air and in doing so will also stop water from the sti spray jets reaching the back of the intercooler .

However, Waterspray only works either to cool the I/cooler down when at lights etc. or to aid / keep efficiency when the engine is at maximum, however on auto this is usually not continual and on average lasts less than 10 seconds.

The splitter is basically 'the other side of the coin' in that it is designed to work in between the 2 mentioned points i.e. Whilst the vehicle is in motion and producing airflow into the intercooler, this as you well know is a lot more than 10 seconds.


So there is a bit of a trade off (without adaption the front half of the intercooler still recieves water but saying that ,How much of the water actually gets to the back part anyway ?) But it can still work with a small bit of ingenuity....

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

I have a splitter fitted to my sti4. Just passed the 72,000 miles mark and still going strong. Standard apart from full decat, green filter, knock-link (saved my life quite a few times!), boost gauge and turbo timer. Oil gets changed every 3k (mobil 1 15w50) and always run on optimax, although I have recently switched to tesco 99 ron. Knock-link seems a bit quieter on the stuff.
Sorry to hear about your engine m8. As others have said, it does sound like the dealer service had a part to play in this one!
Good luck and hope that you are back on the road soon.

justanotherperson

[quote=rb5 286]
So where/who did you get the splitter from?

Ren77

iTrader: (4)

OK, this was originally posted, by me, on P1woc.co.uk - but I might as well share it

This is just a template to make it easier for you to make one. I claim no ownership over the design.

----------------------

Well a while back I said I had one of these - I did, but I lost it. So today I whipped up a new one.

Now as it is, the design is too big to print out on a single sheet of either a4 or a3, so I've split it into two parts on a4.

This means you'll have to cut it out & join the two halves.

I've made this as a PDF file, so anyone should be able to print it no problems. When you print it, be sure that "page scaling" is set to "none" in the options, or it won't be the right size.

For the pros I've provided a correct scale EPS, to do with what you will.

PDFSs (print both pages, cut along line & join)

http://www.planet*******.com/subaru/scoop_page1.pdf
http://www.planet*******.com/subaru/scoop_page2.pdf

EPS (for the pros)

http://www.planet*******.com/subaru/scoop.eps

Cheers!
Ren

Ren77

iTrader: (4)

Well aint that handy? the swear filter doesn't like my url.

For those of you who want the files my website is

www.planetb*a*s*t*a*r*d.com

Without the stars.

Cheers
Ren

Gordo

Thanks for the replies everyone - I'll update later in the week when I get feedback from the garage as to what they think the problem is......

Gordo

...

Scooby-doo97

iTrader: (1)

Gordo, any updates?

p1doc

pmsl-i take it you mean annually as i would be impressed if the dealer changed the oil rectally as suggested
martin

TonyFlow

Nope - he means anally in a nod to PSLewis' comments on us "****" oil changers (i.e. th eones who pre-fill filter, and then crank without CPS/spark plugs connected)

Bob Rawle

As stated I meant what I said, that phrase was coined by a Scoobynetter who normally jumps at the chance to contribute to oil threads but in this one has been strangely quiet, I wonder if the dealer concerned followed his advice perchance, analy that is.

bob

AJJ

We rebuild a large number of Impreza engines as well. We invariably find something at the root of it, unwise induction kits are number one I'd say!
It never ceases to amaze me how many owners like to run the car flat in fifth, just to see how fast it goes, without any preparation whatsoever, and no knowledge of how well the car is set up. I've sometimes had to extract this information under torture, but they usually confess in the end!
Personally, I'd endorse AndyF's comments re MAF sensors, we have a constant stock, and I chenge them at every opportunity, and I took the view that 7000 rpm was just fine for my own P1 thanks all the same.

pslewis

No, sadly, he does actually mean ANALLY ....... you see, there are some owners who pre-fill their Oil Filters and allow to soak OVERNIGHT!!! and then disconnect the Crank Sensor and grind their bearings at a slow RPM - they think its doing some good

Please note, these owners are NOT Engineers ... if they were then you wouldn't see them wasting their time in such a way. They truly think it helps and thats fine, they can continue being **** - it's their life thats ebbing away on such a fruitless exercise.

I am even more **** than Subaru say I need to be - as I do pre-fill my filter before fitting ( but NOT overnight! ) and I do not fart about like an old woman disconnecting a connector, removing spark plugs and all those ScoobyNet rituals!

Where would we be without the *****?? It's better than the best comedy show on earth

Pete

TonyFlow

Pete, with your vastly superior intellect, perhaps you can explain the correlation between getting a car serviced, and the imminent failures (as there seems to be a vast number of cars throwing big ends shortly after standard fluid change services?)

New_scooby_04

iTrader: (4)

Service monkey: Boss, you know that scooby that's just left
Manager service monkey: Yeah, came in for an oil change.
Service monkey: He left this behind, what does it do?
Manager service monkey: Dunno, lets check the Subaru manual..........er, apparently it stops the oil from flowing straight back out the car as you're putting it in! Stupid subaru **** oil change procedure!! He'll be fine.
Service monkey: If not, can we just tell him it was the MAF!?!?!
Manager service monkey. Yeah, fancy a pint?



NS04

TonyFlow

Is that before or after starting the car and immediately booting it in all gears bouncing off the rev limiter to "test" the car is running OK?

Bob Rawle

Always blame the maf, Andy's right, a failing maf can cause leaner running, higher cylinder temps, possible overheating, maybe piston nip (which will take out a big end) but there are other causes just as likely.

Pete your definition of Engineer is interesting, I assume you are qualified to comment, if so please share, then we can all sleep easier, btw there is another thread running somewhere, the owner drove 10 miles after a service and had big end failure .....

Most failures seem to occur during or after a hard high speed high gear run.

Itrs always wise to check the maf before mapping, you can tell if one is on the way by reading its output voltage at idle, this can be quickly confirmed on light load, these days, if there is any doubt, I put one in the car so that I can change it at the roadside if suspicions are confirmed.

Bob

Bubba po

Because some numpty junior mechanic takes it out to "see what it can do"?