they are as safe as the rubber ones, but it depends on how the car is run, the braided hoses are not designed to withstand constant flexing to the degree that the rubber ones are tested to. If you run with uprated suspension and reduce the overall movement, they should be fine, remembering of course that these tests are representative of the lifetime of the car.

Paul

 

I agree about the flexing issues as part of the problem, not to mention issues caused by bad installation and unseen damage caused by caliper removal or fitment issues causing by unnecessary kinking, bending or pulling.
But I disagree about them being as safe as oe rubber ones, rubber hoses always will be safer because the hoses can be properly inspected to assertain their condition and the rubber doesn't suffer failure caused by fatigue or the memory effect of the teflon inner tubing and the effects of excess bending or kinking (all of which not covered under any brake hose guarentees...wear and tear, and improper usage )

I think I'll can this little lot for now as its off-topic - and this issue should for being saved up for a new thread

 

From oil or water cooled turbos to brake pipes in how many moves?
Personally I would not waste money IMHO, on braided lines having found no benefits from fitment on several different makes.

 

So, following from TonyB(ull****)urns (il)logic, all our engines are "water assisted", oil cooled!

About the only turbo's I know of that are not water cooled, are those fitted in Trucks and fork-lifts etc!

 

The reason being for being like that on trucks and comercial engines...is that diesel engines have lower exhaust gas temps, thus heat is not as much of an issue than with petrol engines

 

Steve,
" two separate oil lines, so one for lubrication & one for cooling"
so then the hose connections will be: oil-lubrication entry on top, oil drain on bottom, coolling-jacket inlet one side, cooling outlet opposite side - right?

Thats a 'water-cooled' turbo by design. I suppose there is nothing to stop you using oil as the cooling medium passed through the cooling jacket, but I've never heard of it being done before. A big advantage of using water as the cooling is that if plumbed correctly it will thermo-syphon after switch-off and so turbo-timers are not required. I suspect that oil would be too viscous to thermo-syphon. I'm sceptical that you are actually using oil for cooling, your probably being advised by someone talking bollox, like what was in your original unedited post.

An 'oil-cooled' turbo by design has only the oil inlet on top and the oil drain below. The oil both lubricates and cools.

 

If it's a ball bearing garrett turbo, and you remove the water cooling the turbo WILL DEFINITELY FAIL, and quickly. The oil flow is controlled by a small restrictor built into the turbo core, with only a 0.5mm bore, the ONLY purpose of the oil is to lubricate the bearings, there is NOT ENOUGH oil to provide sufficient cooling of the bearing housing. I hope that is clear!

Paul

 

Paul I fully agree, I think you misread my post but I've added a few words to make it hopefully clearer.

 

gotcha!

 

Horses for courses, made a major difference on my impreza and on my old Pug, Brakes had been bled prior to fitting too. I would fit them to all my 'modified cars' as a no 1 step

David

 

I have three words to add to this thread.

Front
Wheel
Skid

Tony, I think you are what is known in this business as a WUM.