SPEN555

Switch the engine off on downhill sections

voddie

OMG what a great idea !! How could I be so stupid not to think of that ?!?!

GC8

You cant really do this; remember that this is an innefficient low compression engine and itll return worse economy than an already crap Sport, if you try to run without boost. Will it really be worth it?

Simon

voddie

Im not sure if it will be worth it. Thats what im trying to find out. If the car is still somewhat drivable at low boost, and the economy increases a little, then YES

Like I said, the majority of my journey to work is on the M1. If a turbo'd car and a sport were both cruising at 80mph, would the sport be using less petrol? Or not sure how they compare rev wise,if they were both doing say 3500 revs?

GC8

A little but not a lot; Sport fuel economy is quite poor too.

wide

Well at 80 on a good run my sport would get anything between 30/33 mpg, so probably a bit better than my turbo. But my sport was newer X-plate to my M-plate wrx

easyrider

No worries.
Your presumption is correct -you'll have to block the pipe that goes to the boost solenoid - dont just leave it open, and block the other open end (tee piece) with another piece of blocked pipe.
Just make sure you make the joints tight, as you dont want any coming apart as it could cause major overboost.

Gary

Leslie

All this modification is a waste of time and money when you can achieve the same effect with a bit of self control as far as the right foot is concerned. It really is not that difficult.

Les

easyrider

It doesnt have to cost anything-well,just 2 bolts to block 2 pipes if you didnt want to buy a new piece of pipe.
Personally,i would much rather have this mod than having to keep an eye on the boost gauge all the time+you can use the whole throttle range without boosting above 0.5bar,which has got to save on fuel.
I think this mod could be great for those who are genuinely need/want to save on fuel but want to keep some power WITHOUT selling their scoob -i may even try it myself with a switchable controller-one level for low and the other for high boost

redwrx

Sticky - if you noticed i said 'sounds about right'

Ive had my 93wrx for just on 5 years, ...the standard boost peaked at .8, and held at .75bar and on idle is was around -.7 ....ok, end of. Ive got 2 boost gauges, one imperial, and one in bar. I'm an instrumentation technician by trade, and ive been teaching gauge calibrations etc for the past 15years, so my gauges are calibrated spot on (by me)..... and my eyesight aint that bad either.

so as for your reference to the term bollox, why not try contributing yourself, something a little more constructive.



As for leaving scoobs to rich folk........ why not leave scoobynet to those who want to be constructive, or at least want to try to help. And if you were that rich, you'd have something more significant than a scooby.

voddie

Well said matey

Ok how do we get this switch idea to work? Ali-B mentioned early about putting a switch on the 'Purge Solenoid' ? Is the the same thing as the boost solenoid or is it something different?

We are now more than half way through the week and ive just passed half a tank of SUL, mileage stands at 147 miles. A little under the 300 mile to the tank that I was hoping for but I did get a little bored on the way home today. Ive decide not to change anything just yet, and wait till next week when I can do a proper comparison.

easyrider

Personally i wouldnt bother mucking around with any tapping into wiring-just get the armval setup and wire that in seperately-the boost controller for the high boost setting is exactly the same as a dawes device-so you would also benefit from the faster spool up time(turbo comes in with a proper punch )
Apparently, some people set them up with a switch that gets triggered by the throttle pedal at full throttle-so you get economy for normal driving and high boost(whatever level you have set) when you want to put your foot down.

voddie

I keep toying with the idea of a dawes device, sure ill get one soon. But obviously thats for when im feeling flush and want to nail it
Am I right in thinking this sits between the turbo and the actuator? If so then if the valve is set to the lowest then the pressure straight from the turbo will go to the actuator which in turn should open the wastegate at 0.5 ? ie My low setting, then a quick screw back in for the high boost?

Will my standard UK be ok at 1.0 bar ?

easyrider

Yes-youre correct about the fitment of the dawes.I used to run my std MY98 at 1.1bar and had no issues at all-it makes a huge difference over std even if you just set it at std 0.8 bar because it stops the wastegate opening untill your target boost level is reached.
Highly recommend a knocklink though(just incase of the dreaded det ).
I think the armval std controller(like the dawes) only costs about £25 posted!!!

BTW-i am in no way associated with armval-im just impressed with their products quality/value for money compared to others .

Gary