Graham, I presume you're doing Loton on 21st May, otherwise SSO would be an opportunity to perfect your launch?

Or has this already been mentioned?

Gerry

 

Add about 0.2 seconds to get a time comparable to those obtained on the hill.

 

2.1 in the wet aint bad though

 

Hardly empirical, some Hillclimbs start down hill, some flat, all with differing surfaces.

Graham just needs to try harder, as you have already pointed out

 

John is dead right. Some hill climb starts are downhill (Gurston) and steeply up (Shelsley Walsh)
Consistant good starts are easy on road tyres!
The grippier the tyre the harder I've found it.

John: Jeff Twemlow is modding his new Impreza to give you a fright!

Prescott in 2 weeks if i get in. Always do good starts there.
Gerry: Wife will never stand going to Elvington again this year, so will be racing in the Loton Clubbie if i can get an entry to perfect the starts (and the rest) there.

Graham

 

Wrong thread!

 

Toyo's are not crappy they are the most popular list 1a tyre on the hill and sprint circuit... they work very well from cold hence there use.....

 

TS-1's:

The best all-round list 1B tyre you can buy, especially when 60% worn.
Nearly as good as the beloved SO2 Pole positions...now they WERE the best.
Graham

 

Excellent...I still have a set of just legal S02 PP's on one of my sets of 17's

I also like the Toyo T888's having driven a circa 400 brake car fitted with them...grip from the get go.

Oh and Graham, Paul is getting those launch times on Dunlop D01J's not stock road tyres

 

I know the weight makes a difference, but that's taking things to extremes.

(Sorry, but I couldn't resist)

Matthew

 

Excellent, we'll see this weekend then, assuming he's coming up.

---john---

 

if you like them that much Graham you can have mine 80 quid, 4mm tread

 

John:
Geff has cancelled Doune/Barbon/Harewood to gather the bits to mod the car!
He was very much looking forward to them all, but has now found out that a 'stock' WRX is cr@p on a hill climb!

When he's done he is coming up there to give you a fright. ) ) but i made that up!

Those dunlops are the 'same' as the Kumho's i have, List 1B and miles grippier than Toyo's.

Kev, i've seen pictures of how you drive, so those tyres must be frazzled by now...

Graham

 

Kev are they for sale?

Need some sva friendly tryes asap!

Chris

 

yes Chris, i've decided i can just about fit the tyres i want to my car with a few minor tweeks let me know your time scales if you really want them





cheers for the thread hijack Graham

 

EVERYONE highjacks this thread!

Adds a bit of fun though.
Graham

 

If the '60% worn' part really is true, then I'd expect you'd get much better results by having 60% of the tread removed before using it (done for about £8 per tyre by Demon Tweeks et al, for stockhatch racers for example).

The number of heat cycles involved during the first 60% of wear puts the rubber compound way past its best.

Andy

 

most track tyres will come with around 5mm to start with, pre-heat cycled tyres will give around 0.2sec on a 60sec course apparently

 

Scrubbed tyres will stop 'block suffle'. The 60% off rule still gives water dispersal.

My List 1B Kumhos came with 5mm thread depth so no scrubbing needed.

Graham.

 

graham, can you tell me what geometry settings you running with? ( camber, toe, etc... )

 

I actually do not know!

Curtis at Powerstation never gives me a readout when he is done.

I am sure they are VERY close to the Whiteline full race spec, www.whiteline.com.au but he may have a little 'personalisation' in my car.

It does have a lot of negative on each corner and huge caster in the front to kill the understeer (it does not understeer!)

Sorry can't help but i don't know..
Graham

 

ok, I'll scan my settings and I'll post in a new thread.

 

Seen your new thread on here.

If you follow the Whiteline settings you will be ok.
I would say you need to add the canmber bolts to all 4 ends of the car to give the alignment technician the flexibility to dial each corner in properly.

Low cost too!
Grahm

 

if you have seen the thread, what do you think of the camber settings?

 

What is the best 'donar gearbox' for a 5 speed ppd box rebuild that is reasonably obtainable?
Graham

 

Phase 2 UK; ie from a MY99 on UK car

 

Thanks Tim!
Graham

 

I am referring to the difference presented by the extra 4 feet you have to travel and the fact that on a drag strip, you're "leave time" is triggered after you have left the timing beam which can be as long as 10 inches (roll out).

 

As Paul says, the time is 'absolute'
You leave on the beam, about +/-5mm (yes, mm) and the 64 foot beam is exactly that.

Paul: would you agree the best 'available' donar box is the late 5 speed UK?

Graham

 

Depends on what you want ratio wise. You can re-use your older style centre diff with the 1:1 drop gears you'll need to keep your standard rear diff. Keeping the older centre diff also gives you some flexibility to use a wider range of centre diffs for sensible money. I would put your money into the front diff above all else (at the expense of billet forks etc).

You could use a UK box, but then you would need to transfer your existing front diff ratio to match the rear. I would actually say the very best donor box will be one from a Type RA V-limited (note, not a type R) as you could obtain a DCCD unit for later use, it has the right front diff ratio, and the longer 5th gear you will probably want, a steel fork for 3-4, not to mention a helical front diff (hopefully). The type R box will be the same, but without the helical front diff.