Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Just so we know the offical way subaru dealers are supposed to do an oil and filter change, the below is from the service manual. This covers all models and not just the turbo version. Oil change is dealt with seperately from the filter:

3. Engine Oil
A: Replacement
1. Drain the engine oil by loosening oil drain plug.
2. Open the engine oil filler cap for quick draining of the engine oil.
3. Replace the drain plug gasket.
4. Tighten the engine oil drain plug after draining oil. Tighening torque 44 Nm
5. Fill engine oil through filler pipe up to the upper point on level gauge. Make sure that the vehicle is placed level when checking oil level. Use engine oil of proper viscosity, selected in accordance with the table in the figure.... Engine oil capacity (Turbo), upper level 4.5l, lower level 3.5l.
6. Close the engine oil filler cap.
7. Start engine and warm it up for a time.
8. After engine stops, recheck the oil level. If necessary, add the engine oil up to the upper level on level gauge.

4. Engine Oil Filter
A: Replacement
1. Remove the oil filter with ST 498547000 Oil Filter Wrench
2. Get a new oil filter and apply a thin coat of engine oil to the seal rubber.
3. Install the oil filter by turning it by hand, being careful not to damage seal rubber.
4. Tighten more (approximately 2/3 to 3/4 turn) after the seal rubber contacts the oil pump case. Do not overtighten excessively, or oil may leak.
5. After installing oil filter, run the engine and sure that no oil is leaking around seal rubber.

NOTE:
The filter element and filter case are permanently joined; therefore, interior cleaning is not necessary.
6. Check the engine oil level.

I can see what Pete is saying, but personally i'll still stick to prefilling the filter (which i was surprised the 'official' dealer change does not call for) and cranking before starting. Due to my crank sensor connector being under the intercooler i unplug the ignitor instead. This takes all of 1 min above the 'normal' oil change so i'll keep doing it. But having said that i've only done that the last 2 years of the 6 years i've had it. And gods knows what they did in Japan for the 6 years previous to that .

Tony.

Bob Rawle

Setting aside the new engine scenario when you need to move heaven and earth to get pressure up before starting, I have to say that I also can't really find any flaw in Pete's logic, simply put if you analyse the Subaru oil schematic, knowing what components are where and what they are and what their function is, its not possible for the oil to be drained from either mains or big ends at oil change time. Surface tension won't allow it.

Actually i'll go one further as I changed the oil in the car earlier this evening, and didn't do this, reason being it was third change since putting back together so figured no need as all bearing surfaces should be bedded by now (3600 miles).

I also didn't follow normal running in procedure either, checking peaks after the run back from Leicester showed 6874 rpm and 1.56 bar ... based on the alternate theory that says use fully synthetic at the outset and load the rings to force them to bed quickly, bearings, well thats why you put fully synth in doing this, mind you the running in oil was Silkolene Pro R, its back on the Motul now.

So a bit more controversy ... bear in mind my engine has clearances designed to run v high boost at v high revs, so don't try this with a std engine rebuild, it will probably go pop.

Bob

Bob Rawle

Tony that is the one thing that the dealers do wrong, folks you MUST fill the oil filter up before its fitted, bear in mind that the element absorbs the oil so it takes up to 20 mins of topping up to overcome that.

bob

Tone Loc

iTrader: (1)

Don't worry Bob... i won't stop doing that . I did however 'forget' a couple of years ago . Oil pressure came up in about the same time tho.

Tony.

sulli

Having spoken to a Subaru Service Manager, and two Subaru mechanics I know, who do these engines every day, they do not take out the crank sensor, plugs or anything else, after oil change.
As I said before, the service manager was a little befuddled at my questions about removing crank sensor etc after change. Surely if it was required, or recommended, the main dealers would be aware of it. My car was under warranty, as are probably most cars they do - so I can't see warranty specifyinga special procedure either.

By the way PS Lewis - like your style - you have wound up some people nicely, as I guess was part of your intention. It's funny seeing how defensive some people are of their '**** procedures' *snigger*

pslewis

It really wasn't meant as a wind-up, I seriously didn't want to kill my Engine if there were clear reasons to treat the Boxer Engine different than I do all my other cars!!

I am nearly out of Warranty and will be doing the simple things, like Oil Changes, myself ......... until I was told that the Engine will destroy itself and need an expensive re-build unless I carry out a 'Special Sequence'

Now, being as old and wise as I am, I realise that in life you get some weirdos who do the most stupid things because they believe in some other force or fate or some such non-sense (although its very real to them, in their head)

There are also those for whom the idea that 'they' know something 'special' that you don't know (even if its complete rubbish) fills a hole in their lives .... sad, but true.

We have all met these people, well I have anyway, they have no humour - everything is deadly serious - they get out of bed on the same side every morning, because to do otherwise will mean their ***** will fall off as soon as they take a pee ......

I have a neighbour who stands shaking his front door for 5 minutes each time he leaves his house, goes around the back to check the rear door - FIVE times, back to shake the front door for another 5 minutes, he then returns to the rear of the house and shakes the backdoor, back to the front for another quick 2 minute shake and then he can leave with a clear mind ....

.. only to drive around the block and return to shake the doors again

Compulsive disorder is it??

Its the SAME on an Oil Change ...... these people simply MUST follow a procedure or they will NOT be able to rest assured ..

We call it '****' and it is a good name for it ...... but I'm sure they need our understanding??

I am SHOCKED that my car has not had its Oil Filter filled with Oil by the Main Dealers prior to starting the Engine!! Thats TEN Oil Changes without a filled Oil Filter!! ......................

........ no wonder I have had to replace the Engine 10 times!!

Pete

Bob Rawle

Pete ... lol ... you know what they say, cross the road blindfold ....

cheers

bob

GREEN SCOOBY

Pete ... lol ... you know what they say, cross the road blindfold ....and

stop snooping on your neighbour

XTM

Hi this is my first post on scoobynet but i have been a member on another forum for a while ,i actually stopped participating in technical posts on that forum because of all the myths and the 'in my opinion' advice that was being dished out.

If you were not mechanically minded you would have no choice really but to take all that was said as gospel and someone who is not normally '****' would have no real choice to go through the rituals because doubt has been cast in there minds.

I remember one particular thread that went on for months because a couple of people had suffered cracked heads so starting a big outcry of how the head was flawed in its design,there was a poll setup to find the frequency of failures (which showed there were near none) and there was even talk of having sensors and gauges to measure temperature at so many points on the engine it would like like a fighter cockpit with all the gauges .There was also the same problem of which oil was right (especially for the rear LSD ) and some people were giving totally the wrong advice such as normal diff oil is fine which it is not FACT.

I have now come to the theory that the manufacturer of the said product has extensively tested what is right for there product and if they say for example that the oil must be a certain type then that is what you should use.It sounds harsh but if subaru say you do not have to fill the filter then its not necessary (but i agree its good practice).

I have the same manual as Tone Loc and can confirm that there is no special procedure for oil changes but this thread could and will go on forever because people have to do it there way because of the doubt that will be there if they do it the Subaru way.

Too sum it up how many people would do the plug out sensor/disconnected way of oil changing if they had not read it on a scooby forum somewhere.

I think if you give advice you should have HARD FACTS that what you are recommending is really necessary and/or correct.

Soobmeister

We were ADVISED by IM to fill the filters prior to fitting on turbo engines, don't believe it was ever a written down statement. Never on a normal service we vdo fanny about disconnecting this or that, there simply is not the time or the need!! If people want to do that then fine but not necessary otherwise IM would have issued us a bulletin. Pete i'm sure you'll be fine using the tried and tested method we've been using for 10 years now!!!

hoskib

iTrader: (1)

now you've crossed that hurdle pete, what oil are you going to use?

this should be fun

Gary C

Now THAT is funny

pslewis

Right, thank god that we ALL now know that we give the Subaru Impreza Turbo an Oil Change in just the way we have to all the other Engines we have ever done before!

To do otherwise IS the **** way .... according to the Gospel by Subaru - but, I fully appreciate that some people just will NOT feel comfortable if they do it any other way (and, after all, they love to tell their mates that THEY have a 'Special' car that needs 'Special' treatment) so nowt wrong if you want to be **** about it ..................... just please don't try and get the more astute amongst us to carry out the Old Ladies Version of Oil Changes!

Right, which Oil??

Been up the Motor Factors and got some 'Motorway' Oil, bloody good value at £2:99 for 5 Litres ...... it seems to have all the right Specs. on the container, it meets most of the requirements it seems.

What does 're-constituted Mineral Oil' mean, is it an improvement on the normal Oils? Sounds good anyway!!

Pete

Bubba po

Have I said how much I like this thread yet?

hoskib

iTrader: (1)

that's the stuff pete

anything else is just overpriced and overated. all you're doing is paying for the name

*snigger*

jasonius

iTrader: (1)

Very funny original post Pete (chewing my knuckle to admit it..!).

Interestingly, in my 05 owners manual it states the oil change procedure and there is no mention of having to cold crank after refilling.

However, for the sake of a few seconds pulling off a sensor I will be edging my bets. (unless I break the sensor and end up paying silly money for a new one..!)

Jason

pslewis

Jason

Indeed, to my mind - why disturb something that you don't have to? Why pull off a sensor thats been working fine and is happy as it is?

Also, to my mind, cranking an engine over without it starting is WORSE for the engine than it just firing up! I assume there is no fuel being pumped into the cylinders when the crank sensor is disconnected? If fuel is being supplied then that is running down the walls of the cylinders and doing MUCH more damage

Pete

jasonius

iTrader: (1)

Your right (again) there is no fueling when crank sensor disconnected.
Having read some of the later posts (which I've only just done) I think I'll just stick to pre-filling the filter, the procedure I've done countless times before on high performance engines without cold cranking. (Never liked having a cold crank anyhow..!)

Are we about to enter a new era on this forum where we stop scaring the ****e out of all scoob owners and cut out the **** BS..?

Just imagine it without these typical posts..

'My scoob was nicked...'
'My scoob blew up because I went over 100mph..!
'Mondeo TDi beats scoob in drag race..!'
'Milk float TDi beats scoob in drag race..!'

Etc.. etc... etc... Utopia (sp?)..!

Jason

Kevin Groat

Okay, option 3 as we used to do when firing up my freshly rebuilt (a few times) 2 litre rs2000 pinto engine is to use an oil can to build pressure prior to start. We used one of the oil pressure take-off points, short piece of plastic hose between this and an oil can with fresh engine oil - very easy with the oil can to build decent pressure and a film of oil between the crank and the bearings - very noticeable when turning over the engine by hand once you've done this.
Do I do this?, do I hell.....spend some time making sure the oil filter is full before fitting, crank the engine on the starter a couple of times stopping before it kicks into life, fire it up and let it idle till warm. Works for me - STi v3, done 45k miles, all maintained myself always run on NUL and never missed a beat and this includes regular trips to the 7,500 rpm redline.

pslewis

Kevin .......... replace your MAF sensor NOW!!

If your car is running too good it MUST be knackered!! You don't get any warning!!

Also, while you're at it - the Turbos on these cars fail at 45,500miles, change it NOW - if you don't the next time you come home your house will have burnt down!!

Jason ..... yes, wouldn't it be GREAT to cut out the **** Claptrap thats spouted here?? It sends the fear of god into 'some' of the readers ..

How many times have we seen, "Front Door smashed down and family buggered before my very eyes, just for my scooby keys!!" .... "Scooby rammed and driver dragged out by ********* and beaten with his own recently cut-off todger!" .... "Special Oil Change required!" "These Engines are crap, I am extracting 950BHP and it went BANG!" "Subaru won't honour the warranty on my track day blow-up!" "Why should I get a speding ticket for doing 85mph past the school - I didn't kill anyone!"

Pete

jasonius

iTrader: (1)

If only......

Kevin Groat

Pete, agree
It's a wonder that some folks on here take their cars cars out of the showrooms

jasonius

iTrader: (1)

and then there's the water based paintwork, 20 mile warm-up, 10 mile cool-down......

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Same here. Did get paranoid for a while but then thought **** it and wait for symptoms.

pslewis

Yes, but the **** Guide to MAF Sensor problems states that there are no symtoms, and by the time you 'think' your Impeza has suddenly become economical (weak mixture) - your Engine has been destroyed, a hole has appeared in number 3 piston, number 1 inlet valve will have dropped and number 4 exhaust valve will now have melted, the big-end bearings have been shot, the con-rod of number 2 cylinder is now through the block and the engine has gone into limp-home mode!!

Pete

Moray

christ are u sad **** still at this, I think u are all **** now lol

pslewis

115 replies ..... you have posted twice?

3500 views ..... you must have viewed a few times?

Its of interest to a wide audience it would appear? Hardly ****?

Pete

Moray

And it appears you are old enough to at least have a brain. You all need to get out more. Dont you have a women to play with in the evenings ?

16vmarc

lol @ number 12.

pslewis

At 76 years old??

Do me a favour!!!

And I note that YOU are inside on a Saturday night!!

Pot, black, kettle Moray Fool

Pete