New install.Very Impressed.
#31
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Yes Andy,it may not be plastic though,can't really tell what it is accurately.
Messiah i agree whole heartedly with Chiark, give them a miss,they will be grief mate.I guarantee you would be impressed with the Kenwoods.
You would think they cost a grand if you heard them.
BTW Nick, 8.30 in the ARK in Headingley tomorrow night if you are interested?
Me, David, Tom, Knobby so far.
Messiah i agree whole heartedly with Chiark, give them a miss,they will be grief mate.I guarantee you would be impressed with the Kenwoods.
You would think they cost a grand if you heard them.
BTW Nick, 8.30 in the ARK in Headingley tomorrow night if you are interested?
Me, David, Tom, Knobby so far.
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Originally Posted by chiark
Personally I wouldn't touch 'em, but then that's probably because I'm an audio snob
You would need a box, and an amp, and the associated wiring. It might be cheap, but it'll cost you a fair few nicker to install.
You would need a box, and an amp, and the associated wiring. It might be cheap, but it'll cost you a fair few nicker to install.
#36
Well.... just finished and they sound very good. Certainly as much bass as I will ever want and nothing in the boot either.
Sorry if this is a bit repetative but.....:
I mounted the amp under the shelf too:
The remote fits very neatly in the arm rest cubby hole:
and a nice empty boot:
With the oe shelf and grills re-fitted you cannot see that anything has been done.
I'm not sure of the quality of the sound but there is plenty of volume. I'll have to play around with the settings on the remote and HU - I'm new to this kind of thing. Any suggestions about how to set up?
I was trying to avoid going down this route because of the work involved but it really is the neatest solution for my needs. It was a long day though!
Sorry if this is a bit repetative but.....:
I mounted the amp under the shelf too:
The remote fits very neatly in the arm rest cubby hole:
and a nice empty boot:
With the oe shelf and grills re-fitted you cannot see that anything has been done.
I'm not sure of the quality of the sound but there is plenty of volume. I'll have to play around with the settings on the remote and HU - I'm new to this kind of thing. Any suggestions about how to set up?
I was trying to avoid going down this route because of the work involved but it really is the neatest solution for my needs. It was a long day though!
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Looks to me like you've done a good job Simon.Very ingenious place to put the remote.
When setting it all up dail out any bass from your head unit if that makes sense?
Then set fader to central,balance to central and gradually dial the bass in from your remote till you are happy with the sound.Then dial in a bit of treble to crispen the sound up.
What fronts are you using?
Paul.
When setting it all up dail out any bass from your head unit if that makes sense?
Then set fader to central,balance to central and gradually dial the bass in from your remote till you are happy with the sound.Then dial in a bit of treble to crispen the sound up.
What fronts are you using?
Paul.
#38
I've got an Alpine head unit and the bass and treble settings are all set to "0". I've initially set the sub volume on the head unit to "8" of "15" and am playing around with the volume on the remote. Not sure what to do with the frequency dial though other than play with it and see what I like.
I have Infinity 6000CS components in the front. The brightness that some don't like complements the new subs rather nicely.
I have Infinity 6000CS components in the front. The brightness that some don't like complements the new subs rather nicely.
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Sounds like a cracking set up,i was going to say that if you have poor quality fronts you may be disappointed with the overall sound but you have some quality gear.
Just have a play,i'm sure you' ll get it set up to your liking.
Enjoy.
Paul.
Just have a play,i'm sure you' ll get it set up to your liking.
Enjoy.
Paul.
#42
Dynamat extreme is just the same as standard Dynamat only much lighter
http://www.dynamat.com/ - has better explanations but it is well worth dynamatting door panels.
#44
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I have just had these fitted to the rear shelf of my 04STI JDM.
I had them open up the holes and dynamat the whole rear before covering the whole thing with accoustic carpet for the full stealth effect. The only downside was loosing the rear child seat anchors. No big shakes as they unbolt anyway.
I have to say they aint bad
Trouble is it has to go back tommorrow for Bigger front Focals (Got the smaller ones)and another amp to up the stereos 45w.
I had them open up the holes and dynamat the whole rear before covering the whole thing with accoustic carpet for the full stealth effect. The only downside was loosing the rear child seat anchors. No big shakes as they unbolt anyway.
I have to say they aint bad
Trouble is it has to go back tommorrow for Bigger front Focals (Got the smaller ones)and another amp to up the stereos 45w.
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Kenwood shelf subs, setting up with Alpine headunit
I've finally installed my Kenwood shelf subs and they're great!
Headunit is Alpine 4x45W, fronts are Infinity components (50cs I think).
From playing so far, it seems best with bass set to 0 or thereabouts (ie. middle of range, rather than minimised) for the fronts, otherwise it seems a bit 'empty' with the front-rear distance becoming noticable. Sub level on the Alpine is set to around 10 (of 15) and about halfway on the Kenwood controller. Low pass filter seems best set quite high (100Hz), becoming overpowering at the highest setting (150Hz). The revelation for me, though, was setting the phase to 180 degrees out - this seems to compensate well for the physical separation front-to-rear, as the bass immediately feels more 'together' with the main source.
Puzzle now is how to fit components into the rear doors which weren't designed that way ('95 WRX), to re-gain some decent sound for the occasional (but discerning) back-seat passengers - my kids!
Andy
Headunit is Alpine 4x45W, fronts are Infinity components (50cs I think).
From playing so far, it seems best with bass set to 0 or thereabouts (ie. middle of range, rather than minimised) for the fronts, otherwise it seems a bit 'empty' with the front-rear distance becoming noticable. Sub level on the Alpine is set to around 10 (of 15) and about halfway on the Kenwood controller. Low pass filter seems best set quite high (100Hz), becoming overpowering at the highest setting (150Hz). The revelation for me, though, was setting the phase to 180 degrees out - this seems to compensate well for the physical separation front-to-rear, as the bass immediately feels more 'together' with the main source.
Puzzle now is how to fit components into the rear doors which weren't designed that way ('95 WRX), to re-gain some decent sound for the occasional (but discerning) back-seat passengers - my kids!
Andy
#49
I agree with you about the phasing of the subs. For me, though, the one downside is that if you get the bass right for those in the front, it is uncomfortably loud for people in the back (my 3 year old!). I only really use them to their full when in the car on my own.
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Rear door speakers possible for '95 WRX, anyone?
After extended listening, I reckon my front component / rear shelf sub combo needs some rear fill.
Is it possible to adapt the rear door (non-speaker, '95 WRX doorcard) to take components?
cheers
Andy
Is it possible to adapt the rear door (non-speaker, '95 WRX doorcard) to take components?
cheers
Andy
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I've now got my KFC-WDA69RC up and running. I'm probably not pushing it much as I haven't got a front amp. installed yet. Sounds loud enough though and more importantly, doesn't boom outside the car. I'm over 40 and working on respectable
I used 18mm MDF (painted black) to mount the subs under the existing holes in the rear shelf. Amp is mounted on a chipboard plate in front of the jack on the back of the metal web above the wheelarch. I was concerned about heat build up but so far the amp doesn't even get warm.
My car's a 2 door, so I ran the amp power to the void in front of the LHS wheelarch, alongside the rear seat. I've got a dist. block and connectors there for remote-power-on etc.
A big thank you to Chiark and Ozzy for the install information on their websites. Without which I wouldn't have even started doing this on my own.
J.
I used 18mm MDF (painted black) to mount the subs under the existing holes in the rear shelf. Amp is mounted on a chipboard plate in front of the jack on the back of the metal web above the wheelarch. I was concerned about heat build up but so far the amp doesn't even get warm.
My car's a 2 door, so I ran the amp power to the void in front of the LHS wheelarch, alongside the rear seat. I've got a dist. block and connectors there for remote-power-on etc.
A big thank you to Chiark and Ozzy for the install information on their websites. Without which I wouldn't have even started doing this on my own.
J.