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View Poll Results: What viscosity oil do you use in your scooby?
0w-40
2.61%
5w-40
17.65%
10w-40
16.99%
10w-50
15.69%
10w-60
15.69%
15w-50
27.45%
Other
3.92%
Voters: 153. You may not vote on this poll

What viscosity oil do you use in your scooby

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Old 31 January 2005, 11:53 AM
  #31  
andy97
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What is the mobil 1 Supersyn Antiwear Technology

Andy
Old 31 January 2005, 12:16 PM
  #32  
SamUK
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Just changed from Mobil 15/50 to Motul 300v 15w50

Changed every 3000 miles!
Old 31 January 2005, 12:36 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by andy97
What is the mobil 1 Supersyn Antiwear Technology

Andy
These are addatives comtained in all oils, some are better than others, again you get what you pay for, a good oil will use good anti wear addatives.

Cheers

Simon.
Old 31 January 2005, 01:26 PM
  #34  
coolangatta
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I'm in the 'other' category.

Am using 5w 30 as recommended, by Subaru Japan, in 2003 STi.

Am I wise to follow the manufacturers recommendations??
Old 31 January 2005, 01:46 PM
  #35  
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Read some of my posts. Yes absolutely, 5w-30 or 5w-40 is the recommended since around 2000 onwards.

Cheers
Simon
Old 31 January 2005, 02:00 PM
  #36  
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God help anyone using 0W oil!
Ask oil man to verify:


Mobil 1 0w-40 oil at 100degrees C = 14.3 Cst
Motul 10w-40 oil at 100degrees C = 14 Cst

In this example 10w-40 is THINNER than the 0w-40 at operating temperature (but only very very marginally).

The differnce is one is a better oil and should be more resitant to degrading...the Cold temp viscosity numbers (the first number followed by the "w") on the bottle have no assocition to the oils hot temperature behaviour.

This doesn't mean that you shouldn't use it, but it also means that you shouldn't poo poo other people for using it.

http://www.millersoils.net/pdf_downl..._explained.pdf

Note the allowed viscosity range for a 40 weight oil...12.5 to 16.3

A good google will answer all the facts on what oil viscosities mean.
Old 31 January 2005, 02:25 PM
  #37  
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If you are trying to discover how good an oil is the following guidence may help although if available the NOACK % is also an important number as it tests for the % of evaporation at 250 degC and therefore indicates quality of basestock and strength. This is used to test the oil consumption figures.

Good low viscosity synthetics should be around 5 to 7% the ACEA max allowed to make the A3 rating is 13%. Many oils are formulated to meet this number i.e. pass!

Here's the guidence:

There some important numbers to bear in mind when looking at technical data sheets and you should be able to obtain these either by looking at the sheets or asking the oil company for the figures.

COMPARING TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS (If you can get hold of them!)

When comparing several oils for use in your vehicle, the most important thing to do is to compare the technical specifications of the same viscosity oils.

This is the only way to objectively determine which oil has the best protection and performance characteristics.

There are some useful specifications you might see on the technical data sheet for any given oil viscosity although many manufacturers do not publish the full story which just confuses the matter as you need to compare the same figures to make a true assessment so you may need to ask!


Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 degrees C
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 degrees C
Viscosity Index (VI)
Pour Point
Flash Point
High Temperature/High Sheer Viscosity

Comparisons can be difficult without the full picture, but not impossible. Here are some of the specifications which are the most important when looking for the best performing oil.

WHAT DOES EACH SPECIFICATION MEAN?

The most commonly found specs are kinematic viscosity at 100 degrees and 40 degrees C, VI (viscosity index), pour point, flash point, and the HTHS number (high temperature/high shear).

Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 degrees C

Although this test is not used specifically for classification of the oil as a certain viscosity, it is used for establishing the Viscosity Index of the oil. If the VI Index is listed then you can safely ignore this specification, even though it's on all tech sheets.

Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 degrees C

Once again this test is really only useful for establishing the viscosity classification of the oil and for determining it's Viscosity Index. If the VI Index is listed then you can safely ignore this specification, even though it's on all tech sheets.

Viscosity Index

An oil's VI rating refers to its ability to maintain a consistent viscosity over a wide temperature range. The higher the VI, the better this ability. I wouldn't purchase an multi-viscosity oil that has a viscosity index below 140. The VI of a good monograde oil should be at least above 100. One thing to keep in mind regarding VI numbers is that they only refer to an oil's ability to maintain consistent viscosity when new. They tell you nothing about how quickly the oil will lose this ability to maintain its viscosity over time.

The fact is, even if an oil has a VI of 180, it may only hold that VI rating for a couple thousand miles and this is extremely important! This is where the HTHS number is very important.

A rule of thumb is that Petroleum oils are much more likely to have declining viscosity indexes than synthetic oils. This is because synthetics require a far lower percentage of VI improvers to boost their VI numbers. VI improvers can break down very quickly. Hence, the less VI improver needed, the less likely an oil's VI will be affected over time.

Most tech sheets list the viscosity index.

Pour Point

The pour point of an oil is a temperature -15 degrees C above the temperature at which an oil shows no movement when its container is inclined for 5 seconds. In simple terms, the pour point is the lowest temperature at which an oil will actually flow. This does not mean that it would easily pump through an engine at this temperature - just that the oil still acts somewhat like a liquid at this temperature.

Keep in mind that in oils where pour point depressants are necessary (generally, petroleum oils), the pour point of the oil will rise slightly every time your oil sees cold temperature weather. This is because those pour point depressant additives are being used up. Synthetic oils do not use pour point depressants, so they will hold a consistent pour point for a much longer period of time.

This spec should be found on every tech sheet. Of course, if the oil is not designed for low temperature operation, this spec is obviously less important. But, if you're looking at the spec sheet for an oil that will see cold temperature operation, the pour point should be on there.

Flash Point

The flash point of an oil is the temperature at which the oil vaporizes enough for the gas to become momentarily flammable in the presence of a small flame. There are other conditions and requirements for this test, but in general it is that an oil reaches its flash point when it begins to significantly vaporize.

In today's modern engines a flash point under 180 degrees C is unacceptable. Look for an oil with a flash point of 200 degrees C if you want the good stuff. A good quality synthetic will be higher than this. If this specification is not available, find another oil.

High-Temperature/High-Shear

This test is a simulation of the shearing effects that would occur within an engine. In fact, it's actually designed to simulate motor oil viscosity in operating crankshaft bearings.

Under high stress conditions where shearing can occur, the VI Improvers (polymers) break down. As they do, the viscosity of the oil decreases. This is what the High Temperature/High Shear test checks for.

The HT/HS test is measured in Centipoise (cP) as the Cold Crank Simulator test is. However, in this case, because you're hoping for the least loss of viscosity with an increase in heat and stress, you want the cP value to remain high.

Each SAE multi-viscosity grade has a specific lower limit for the HT/HS cP value. If a multi-viscosity oil cannot achieve a cP value above that limit, it cannot be classified under that viscosity grade. For instance, according to the SAE specifications, an oil must achieve an HT/HS cP value of 3.7 or higher in order to be classified at the 15w40 viscosity grade. The thinner the oil the lower the number.

So, whether this data appears on a manufacturer's tech spec sheets or not, the company always has the data and it should be available on request.

MEETS OR EXCEEDS ALL REQUIREMENTS

Other companies might list a test specification (standard or non-standard) and then put something like "Meets or Exceeds All Requirements". This can be a cop out unless the oil in question is a specialist "race" oil which is tested on the track (Motul 300V is one of these specialist "race" oils).

Any oil on the market should meet or exceed any standardized requirements, otherwise, it shouldn't be on the market.

A good tip is to look for oils manufactured by companies that are not afraid to publish the results of testing for comparison to other oils.

Be aware that some companies will utilize non-standardized testing procedures so they can provide information which looks impressive but can't be compared to other oils in the industry which is generally unacceptable.

If you want to benchmark oils then here are a few "top" oils that you will find hard to beat and I quote these as a standard to aim at eventhough it's a very high standard to set.

Silkolene PRO S 5w-40

KV 100DegC 14.89
KV 40DDegC 92.35
VI Index 169
Pour -51 DegC
Flash 210 DegC
HTHS 4.07

Motul 300V 5w-40

KV 100DegC 13.80
KV 40DDegC 80.80
VI Index 176
Pour -36 DegC
Flash 216 DegC
HTHS 4.51

Silkolene PRO S 10w-50

KV 100DegC 18.17
KV 40DDegC 116.49
VI Index 174
Pour -33 DegC
Flash 210 DegC
HTHS 5.11

Motul 300V 10w-40

KV 100DegC 14
KV 40DDegC 89.5
VI Index 161
Pour -36 DegC
Flash 226 DegC
HTHS 4.19

Silkolene PRO R 15w-50

KV 100DegC 18.2
KV 40DDegC 130
VI Index 156
Pour -35 DegC
Flash 200 DegC
HTHS 5.23

Motul 300V 15w-50

KV 100DegC 17.8
KV 40DDegC 128.1
VI Index 154
Pour -36 DegC
Flash 215 DegC
HTHS 5.33

Mobil 1 Motorsport 15w-50

KV 100DegC 17.4
KV 40DDegC 125
VI Index 153
Pour -45 DegC
Flash 230 DegC
HTHS 5.11

For information the figures on Castrol RS 10w-60 are as follows:

Castrol RS 10w-60

KV 100DegC 22.70
KV 40DDegC 159
VI Index 170
Pour -42 DegC
Flash 208 DegC
HTHS 3.70

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Simon
Old 31 January 2005, 02:52 PM
  #38  
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Ali, I know a thing or 2 about oil, I assist / conduct trials on gas turbines with some rather new and hi tech turbo oils Also responsible for lube analysis on rotating machinery.

Agreed its similar in visc at operating temp, but its not a similar curve on the way up to that temp. It takes a fair while for oil to get to 100 deg c too.

I would not use 0W oil in my or any car.

MB
Old 31 January 2005, 03:03 PM
  #39  
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So making a comparison between mobil 1 0w-40 specifications, Motol 300v 5w-40 and silkolene PRO S 5w-40 I see there is very little difference.

mobil 1 0w-40

Viscosity, ASTM D 445
cSt @ 40º C 80

cSt @ 100º C 14.3

Viscosity Index, 187

HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s @ 150ºC ASTM D 46833.6

Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -54

Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 236


Silkolene PRO S 5w-40

KV 100DegC 14.89
KV 40DDegC 92.35
VI Index 169
Pour -51 DegC
Flash 210 DegC
HTHS 4.07



Motul 300V 5w-40

KV 100DegC 13.80
KV 40DDegC 80.80
VI Index 176
Pour -36 DegC
Flash 216 DegC
HTHS 4.51
Old 31 January 2005, 03:06 PM
  #40  
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Hi MB


could you supply this data for a comparison.

Andy
Old 31 January 2005, 03:07 PM
  #41  
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The difference between the HTHS numbers here is the thing. Mobil use 100% pao and although better than most, Silkolene and Motul pip it for shear stability - it's the esters that do this.

Cheers
Simon
Old 31 January 2005, 03:13 PM
  #42  
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So, does everyone use the same viscosity oil in their car throughout the year ???
Old 31 January 2005, 03:33 PM
  #43  
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Why not, pick the correct viscosity and it will be fine all year.

Cheers
Simon
Old 31 January 2005, 03:46 PM
  #44  
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I use the same all year, if you wanted to be fussy about it you could go for a thinner grade for low temp protection on startup, but Ive been using Motul 15W50 from summer through til now. I just ensure its got some warmth in it before moving off. I checked with BRD on this and Motul seem ok with it.

Oilman, how do you find the more ester based oils with affinity for water? Some of the turbine oils we use are very hydroscopic and slightest quantities of water plays havoc with the make-up. The ester make up is much less % I guess.

We use a tribology place for oil analysis, might start sending car samples there out of interest

MB
Old 31 January 2005, 03:54 PM
  #45  
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Not Motul info above, more for ester based turbo oil, but wondered if this was why Motul supply in metal tins rather than plastic containers? The oil's affinity for water can actually draw external moisture in and do bad things...

MB
Old 31 January 2005, 03:58 PM
  #46  
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Nice theory but Silkolene use plastic cans

No there is no problem with water and the ester content is around 20% on both.

Cheers
Simon
Old 31 January 2005, 03:58 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by oilman
Why not, pick the correct viscosity and it will be fine all year.

Cheers
Simon
That's what I was effectively asking. Back on page 1, I was just asking if Dealers would use a thicker oil over winter or whether they just use the same stuff year round. I assumed they'd just use the same.

Stefan
Old 31 January 2005, 04:00 PM
  #48  
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I was more asking if Motul had it right

MB
Old 31 January 2005, 04:03 PM
  #49  
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15/50 Pro R for me
Old 31 January 2005, 05:35 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Dark Blue Mark
Ali, I know a thing or 2 about oil, I assist / conduct trials on gas turbines with some rather new and hi tech turbo oils Also responsible for lube analysis on rotating machinery.

Agreed its similar in visc at operating temp, but its not a similar curve on the way up to that temp. It takes a fair while for oil to get to 100 deg c too.

I would not use 0W oil in my or any car.

MB
Forgive me that I find it hard to concieve. Ignoring that almost all synthetic 0w oils are PAO based and that comparable non-pao esters based synthetic oils are either 5w or 10w. (Ester being better than PAO)

How does the better (lower) cold cranking viscosity (0w) make the oil worse than a 10w oil that is thicker at sub zero temperatures. Surely the important bit is how quick the oil reaches it's working viscosity and maintaining it at high tempertures. Which the 0w rating has very little bearing on?

Last edited by ALi-B; 31 January 2005 at 05:38 PM.
Old 31 January 2005, 05:37 PM
  #51  
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Simon,

What do you recommend for use with hydraulic tappets (ala EVOs) in the winter. As i said on page one it seems Motul 300V 15W/50 is showing alot more background noise than say Castrol RS 10W/60. Especially on cold start up in the mornings.... the noise from the tappets is embarassing. Sounds like a diesel.

So would you go for Pro S 10W/50 or maybe Motul 300V 5W/40 (can this be mixed with 300V 15W/50?????).

And when is your next group buy on?

Tony.
Old 31 January 2005, 06:07 PM
  #52  
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No you can't mix 5W/40 with any other Motul V300, it's the only viscosity that can't be mixed with others!
From the above data it seems Motul 5W/40 is better than 10W/40 in most characteristics.
JIM
Old 31 January 2005, 06:20 PM
  #53  
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Silkolene PRO S 10w-50 seems to quiten things down. There was evidence of this on a thread on the Lancer Register recently where many peoples noisy tappets had been silenced by using this oil. - Try it

January Group buy prices now extended through Feb.

Cheers
Simon

Originally Posted by Tone Loc
Simon,

What do you recommend for use with hydraulic tappets (ala EVOs) in the winter. As i said on page one it seems Motul 300V 15W/50 is showing alot more background noise than say Castrol RS 10W/60. Especially on cold start up in the mornings.... the noise from the tappets is embarassing. Sounds like a diesel.

So would you go for Pro S 10W/50 or maybe Motul 300V 5W/40 (can this be mixed with 300V 15W/50?????).

And when is your next group buy on?

Tony.
Old 31 January 2005, 06:23 PM
  #54  
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Simon,

Have you got a link to that thread... i'll try a search in the mean time.

Can you PM me some prices and how best to order.

Cheers,

Tony.
Old 31 January 2005, 06:26 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by ALi-B
Forgive me that I find it hard to concieve. Ignoring that almost all synthetic 0w oils are PAO based and that comparable non-pao esters based synthetic oils are either 5w or 10w. (Ester being better than PAO)

How does the better (lower) cold cranking viscosity (0w) make the oil worse than a 10w oil that is thicker at sub zero temperatures. Surely the important bit is how quick the oil reaches it's working viscosity and maintaining it at high tempertures. Which the 0w rating has very little bearing on?
It doesn't, it's better for cold crank (0w) as it flows quicker and therefore reduces cold start wear. Put simply, its the whole argument that I have been having here for months now. Thinner oils are better as long as the upper viscosity is capable of handling the heat without shearing hence my arguments for ester based 5w-40's which are good at low temps (polar aspect helps) and shear stable at high temps. Thicker is not better as I've been preaching.

If you have a problem with high temps then 10w-50 is better but surely the average scoob doesn't run in excess of 130 degC?

Cheers
Simon
Old 31 January 2005, 07:11 PM
  #56  
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Simon

Can you PM me prices of Silkolene 5-40 and Motul 5-40, best grades please. ( power, competition, motorsport or whatever they call themselves these days ..! )
Delivery time & P&P too plz.
Old 31 January 2005, 07:22 PM
  #57  
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Mobil 1 0W40 on standard MY02STI
Old 31 January 2005, 07:33 PM
  #58  
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Indeed, does this ring a bell?

A much ignored document I fear

http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthrea...ghlight=oilman

Cheers
Simon
Old 31 January 2005, 09:06 PM
  #59  
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Ali, im not denying that 0W Mobil will give better cold start protection. Its simple logic that it will flow quicker. I was commenting on the time / correlation with temp it takes to thicken.

I do worry a little that the 15w50 I use isn't great on cold start - but I can live with that. If you look at the Motul when you pour it out, it could never be described as "thick"

MB
Old 01 February 2005, 10:48 AM
  #60  
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Here's my 2p worth.

As the car basically calls for an SAE 40, whether you use 0w-40, 5w-40 or 10w-40 is only a question of the cold crank flow and this is important as it's where 90% of the engine wear occurs.

Newer cars have 0w specified but the majority of older scoobs are 5w and 10w.

I would suggest (as I have on many occasions) that 5w-40 is the best grade giving better cold start than 10w but remember they are all SAE 40's when hot.

5w will in the main will guarantee you a better quality of oil as this formulation is difficult with petroleum oils (therefore at least some if not all synthetic) unlike 10w which can be formulated with 100% hydrocracked oil.

I'm not saying that 15w-50 should not be used and in some cases it may be appropriate but there are more advantages to using a thinner oil in an "all year round" scenario.

Good feedback here by the way. Oil debates - my favorite

Cheers
Simon


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