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Novice DIY 2.5 build

Old Mar 11, 2005 | 04:35 AM
  #151  
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Dyney, i woud be very interested in a print screen of you ignition map and table from pclink to compare to mine as this is being talked aout in another thread on here. your engine seems the most like mine on here.
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 08:39 AM
  #152  
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Dyney - can you give an idea of where the cost all goes ?

I've seen that 2.5 short motors are around 1500 quid now, surely even with gasket kits etc, it only comes in at around 2K - most places seem to be quoting between 5 and 8 grand for a fitment - Ignoring the labour, how does the cost breakdown (I notice that you reckon that its cost around 4.5) ?

Cheers,

Mark
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 07:16 PM
  #153  
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megrac,
I'll see what I can do


Mark,
I did all the work myself So no labour charges at all!!!

I think Barretts are chargiing a mate of mine £1500 to build his new engine up (completely) not sure if that includes fitting
I would think there is £500 for engine removal and strip on top. That's just the labour!!

Do the "tuners" include a re-map?
What do they include for that 5-8K?

£1500 for short block
£300 for gaskets
£700 for ECU and mapping (or Ecutek)
New cam belt and tensioner ?
new oil and water pumps ?
Fuel pump/reg ?
Bigger injectors ?


That's approx £4.5K for the built engine with a re-map
Then add the ? bits at about £1000

Then if you had a TD04 to start with you'll need something a little bigger more £££'s TD05/20g add about £800

Getting close to £6000

If you take off the £2K labour, my £4.5k isn't too far out
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 09:10 PM
  #154  
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Originally Posted by Dyney
megrac,
I'll see what I can do


Mark,
I did all the work myself So no labour charges at all!!!

I think Barretts are chargiing a mate of mine £1500 to build his new engine up (completely) not sure if that includes fitting
I would think there is £500 for engine removal and strip on top. That's just the labour!!

Do the "tuners" include a re-map?
What do they include for that 5-8K?

£1500 for short block
£300 for gaskets
£700 for ECU and mapping (or Ecutek)
New cam belt and tensioner ?
new oil and water pumps ?
Fuel pump/reg ?
Bigger injectors ?


That's approx £4.5K for the built engine with a re-map
Then add the ? bits at about £1000

Then if you had a TD04 to start with you'll need something a little bigger more £££'s TD05/20g add about £800

Getting close to £6000

If you take off the £2K labour, my £4.5k isn't too far out

Speak to Mark at lateral performance he charged me £1510 for a ej22t short motor (the 2.5 is cheaper from memory), £90 for the uprated gaskets, £147 + vat for oil pump. £85 for walbro fuel pump and delivered it all to Barretts for me

As I'm having the shortblock fitted the cost of the rebuild has been reduced, the engine removal is £700+vat but there will be additions to that.

Have a look at my project for 2005, didnt mean to hijack your thread Iain

Rgds, Bryan
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 09:43 PM
  #155  
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Bryan - I'll be V interested -

I understand the costs when you look at the extras like injectors etc - but I should already have everything. (> For now... - i.e. to give what I already have but as a 2.5 with 0 miles, not a 2.0 with 135000 miles !)

i.e.

Need :
Short Block (1500)
Gaskets (300)
Oil Pump (160)
Cambelt / tensioner (say 150)
Water Pump (100 ?)

Already have:
FMIC
255 fuel pump/upgraded reg
550 injectors
FMIC
TDFE05
Ported headers
Prodrive Inlet
57i inlet kit
PFC
AVC-R

Just wondered if I'm missing something, or whether I'm really looking at 2K + remap + labour (I'd build it myself, but wouldn't attempt to fit)..

Mark
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 10:43 PM
  #156  
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you'd build it but not fit it ? fitting it is the easy bit!
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 09:45 AM
  #157  
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When I've built engines in the past, its been fairly easy to do and the car would still be on the road - though I'd only be able to build the bottom end - (I've always had spare heads etc before....)

However, fitting them requires a ramp or pit and engine hoist above the car - which is kit I don't really have easy access to anymore (unfortunately).

I suppose I'm looking at either doing it all myself, or just delivering the short engine and the car to someone else then - which is a bit disappointing, as I'd like to spend time building it up....

Maybe it would be better to try to get hold of a 'spare' top end too - so that I can build the whole unit, ready to drop in ?

Mark
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 06:47 AM
  #158  
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Bryan,
What Hijack

£90 for the uprated gaskets
Thats just the Head gaskets though

I understand the costs when you look at the extras like injectors etc - but I should already have everything.
Mark that's why I said "What do they include for that 5-8K?"
Are they quoting for the whole job or just fitting a 2.5 block?

Looking at your spec ypou should only need the bits you listed

Fitting the engine is the easy bit.
Hire an engine crane and take a week off work
Or get some spare heads, a sump and some pulleys and off you go!
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 09:46 AM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by markwild

i.e.

Need :
Short Block (1500)
Gaskets (300)
Oil Pump (160)
Cambelt / tensioner (say 150)
Water Pump (100 ?)
Mark
I bought all my ancillaries from the states and they cost less than half the prices quoted. Don't understand how they can be so much more expensive in the UK.

Mark A
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 11:27 AM
  #160  
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Dyney - that sounds good to me

I realise that you were asking what the 5-8k includes - the short answer I had when I asked what it included was 'everything' - which wasn't really what I was after, but I'm not ready to start it yet, do didn't push it (And I was in a hurry...) - I guess that the price should vary depending on the start point - so that sounds about right...

Mark A - I'll be talking to you closer to the time then

Cheers,

Mark
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 11:48 AM
  #161  
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This is the website I used

Parts arrived within 3 days and payment by credit card.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 12:09 PM
  #162  
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Thanks !
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:52 PM
  #163  
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Do I need Sti3 or lower heads for phase 1.5 (98 uk) then ? - If I get heads/cams/cam-pulleys etc (i.e. head assembleys) I can build it without taking mine apart first -

sounds like a good option....

Mark
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 03:37 PM
  #164  
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STi 3 would be my phase 1-1.5 head of choice. STi 5&6 have a different inlet pattern.
That's what I'm trying to do, build up a spare engine which can be swopped over reativily quickly.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 03:41 PM
  #165  
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Thanks Mark - I've 'subscribed' to your thread and will watch with great interest -

I need to slowly start collecting parts - no great rush (My job runs out in a month...and I've still got to repay my gearbox money into my savings...) -

I also need to get myself a trip in a converted 2.5, to see what the deal is all about

Cheers,

Mark
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 06:12 PM
  #166  
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I've been in a hard running AndyF mapped 2.5 Sti v3 Wagon.....

Ballistic, just ballistic.

Fab.

Graham.
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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 10:19 AM
  #167  
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my 2.5 shorty and steel head gaskets from markA at the time; 1250
apexi pfc and commander from andy f ; 620
fuel pump and reg from mark at lateral 195
timing belt (didnt need tensioner) 80
------
2145

i had a spare oil pump but i still need to allow for injectors. 550cc seem to be around the 200 mark for a set of second hand ones. i built it myself and had the tdo5 from
the 2litre. ive done the mapping myself but i think andyf does it for 180
and from what ive read here he always gets the required results.nice easy fella to deal with too.

a friend of mine has just had a rebuild on his 2L and had a motec fitted and mapped and dynod at 360bhp at 1.2bar. i mapped mine fairly conservatively at .9bar with 6krpm limit(injectors limit). i prefer my cars performance and so does he plus in theory my build being less stressed should have greater reliability. we are both happy but his bill was £12k !!!

Last edited by buzzard; Mar 17, 2005 at 10:38 AM.
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Old May 5, 2005 | 11:02 PM
  #168  
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Anyone care to continue this thread...... my wallets twitching...
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Old May 5, 2005 | 11:20 PM
  #169  
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tis crossing my mind, does the insurance jump up much £££
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Old May 7, 2005 | 09:21 PM
  #170  
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OK I'll continue

Popped up to see Pat at Scoobyclinic for bit more mapping and some boost control

Upped boost to 1.2 bar, but the clutch started slipping on the first run
Only managed an hour on the rollers before we gave up.

But managed:



New clutch is now in and it's storming again
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Old May 8, 2005 | 12:23 AM
  #171  
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How's the gearbox holding up mate..??
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Old May 8, 2005 | 06:22 PM
  #172  
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Box is OK, but I haven't really put it to the test yet
Had done 110k when the engine went in. Have now done 10k on the new engine including running in.

The box is one of the reasons I limited the boost to 1.2 bar for the moment. The other being it's a cheep mod to up the boost further when I get used to it
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Old May 8, 2005 | 09:17 PM
  #173  
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when you get used to it ?




that'l be tomorrow !

heh heh
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Old May 15, 2005 | 11:07 PM
  #174  
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BTTT for Iain... thanks for the chat today mate....... you've got to keep us posted about the adventures next weekend... and the few days after......
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Old May 19, 2005 | 07:04 AM
  #175  
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Thanks mate. Will do

Let me know if you need your ears talked off again
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Old May 19, 2005 | 08:39 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by buzzard
my 2.5 shorty and steel head gaskets from markA at the time; 1250
apexi pfc and commander from andy f ; 620
fuel pump and reg from mark at lateral 195
timing belt (didnt need tensioner) 80
------
2145
Please remember that this figure is very basic IMO. Any novices contemplating this upgrade from scratch will have to add a lot more to it - TMIC/FMIC, DP, full decat exhaust, possibly headers, induction, cold air, gauges, knocklink, AFR, turbo, heat wrap, fittings, plugs and the list goes on... Some will be upgrading from an advanced state of tune to start with and will have many parts already, then this price estimation looks more realistic.

This is not a criticism but just a warning to beginners.

F
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Old May 19, 2005 | 06:01 PM
  #177  
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steady there floyd you'll put people off.
but yes you are quite right in everything you say but only if more power is required.
the parts i listed in my earlier post are all that are needed when doing a direct 2L to 2.5L rebuild while not looking for a greater power hike. the reason i opted for the 2.5 was not for performance but for reliability. i now have a car that pulls far better from 1500rpm and a rev limit that i have set at 6k with boost now at a mild .6bar (550 injectors now fitted)which is slightly below stock,and the cat is still there(mainly due to upcoming test).
i would never rebuild with a 2L block ever again. there is just no practical reason to do it.

i am curious tho Floyd why i might need all the other parts you mentioned. what cost was your rebuild?
have i missed something?(friendly banter)

Last edited by buzzard; May 19, 2005 at 08:52 PM.
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Old May 19, 2005 | 11:05 PM
  #178  
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Banter mode on-
I'll tell you, shall I? For the extra insurance its going to cost you (and it will) you are going to want a lot more power to justify the extra outlay. Even if you are happy now I can guarantee that you'll want more later, especially after the effort you've gone to and the fact that my £2150 worth of 2L mods will 'whoop yer ***' on any track

You must be the only person who has rebuilt his car with a 2.5 to go only a 'little bit' quicker Time will tell and I shall be watching :suspicious:

Banter mode off-
F
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Old May 30, 2005 | 04:03 PM
  #179  
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Just browsing through the threads (mother in law here..)
Dyney, you were at the SSO; how well did you go?

Has anyone built a 2.33 in the 'Dyney' manner, ie short and sweet?

Can you literally take a 2L CDB, add a 2.5 crank with 2L Sti rods/pistons and heads, add all the externals I have (20g/GruppeS etc) and come out with a 400+ x 380+ engine that will rev like a 2 L?? (8000 red line)

If it is this easy ( ) why dont lots of people do it?

Have I the wrong end of the wicket here?

Graham.
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Old May 30, 2005 | 07:51 PM
  #180  
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G,
thats a perfectly sensible question but I do believe there is more to it.
Looking about on 22b it seems that all the 2.33 players say it costs the most of all the "usual" builds, its also a bit more of a ba5tard to keep running tip top, however, its the reviest engine out there and will take a shatload of boost.

2.5 is the cheapest option for 400bhp (that you KNOW you want ) as it can be a bolt on job if the supporting mods are in place, a la most of the projects "team".
I dont have a definitive insurance increase figure yet, was going to ask Ian at the mencap rally this weekend but for some reason my mind appeared to be in another state

Andy
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