David_Wallis

I would seriously consider a H&S 3" downpipe.

David

Carl Davey

iTrader: (3)

The idle solenoid thread link is broken.

I know you seem pretty set on using the sports CAT Graham but i'll just stick in that my car (in 260bhp form, minus FETD05/Apexi etc) has gone through 2 MOTs on a warm centre CAT only. Obviously this is by no means a hard and fast rule but surely food for thought? Also, when i changed my turbo i was surprised how quickly i got the d/p off... i just can't help thinking the sports CAT would be better off kept in the garage and fitted when required? Or is being legal 100% of the time a must?

Gaining inspiration once more, cheers. Time to get mine rolling again...

911

The Law is getting tighter round here, and the West Midlands is being targeted for road-side checks, focused on load exhausts/emmisions/tinted glass/too low suspension and all that.
Except for the tinted glass, I'm in the bag.....
Be nice to run a 350 bhp Impreza good and clean.
John, my Magnex 3'' decat with a open neck can't be that different to the HS unit? ie flow rate/bends they all have to fit in the same spot and run the same diameter so all things are 'equal'?
Back to the Bench.
Graham

willy

I could do with the link for the idle solenoid too.
Its not working.

Ta
*****

dowser

Still re. the cat'ed d/p: What are the law checking for though? I have a bulge very similar to yours (oo-eerrr!) in the middle of my d/p - there's no cat in there though Wrapped you just can't tell the difference (and with a centre cat, neither can a roadside or MOT exhaust gas check). Throttle response/spool/power are all much better without a bloody great restriction right at the turbo exit - move it as far away as possible to allow the gas temperature/velocity to reduce and minimise the impact.

All the cars I remap here have the cat knocked out of the stock d/p, and the centre cat replaced with a 100 or 200 cell 'sports' item. They all pass the Swiss (strict) annual exhaust gas test.

Secondary issue is the twin dump design, and whether it will restrict wastegate maximum flow enough to cause boost creep. If you're really only looking for 360 hp (no bad thing if the car is going to be abused up hills constantly), then that requires somewhere between 1.1-1.25 bar from 6k on.

With a badly ported (ie; done by me ) wastegate on my 05/06, I cannot run below 1.3 bar. On a properly ported WG, no problem with my open necked design. But look where the wastegate gases will be hitting with actuator wide open on your new turbo and ask whether this will cause too much restriction?

Rant over

Richard

911

Thanks Richard: Something to seriously think about (instead of the TMIC )

Had a good/bad day in the Garage

Finally got the TMIC to sit down , but the bonnet refused to shut!

There is interference on the TMIC and the bonnet cross beam. Bugga!

Had another shot at the brackets and found a much better position that clears the 'Y' piece of the TMIC and the bulkhead. Had to 'bend' (big hammer, I do come from Birmingham) the bulkhead either side of the engine stabilizer:

Those splits are only in the seam sealer.

the TMIC now sits very comfortably, the IC/throttle body connection is tight and parallel, doubt if the tube will ever blow off (@1.5bar eh Andy?)


The bonnet now closes properly, all clear and correct, but it actually 'looks right' old engineer's addage!

SO....with it all sitting right there is the DV plate to get around the real problem here. To the rescue is Dyney's example, not an Sti8 but a V6/7 I think (sorry the link is broken)
The white block of wood is the exact size (+2mm) of the valve, shows just how much has to be cut out. Wish I could weld aluminium, but will need to find a friendly welding (radiator?) shop to help (more $$$).


That's it for today, off out tonight with some Hill climb friends, so a bit blury tomorrow!

Graham (911)

That commentry is bugging me about the cat now!

StickyMicky

im following this thread like a hawk
i to would like to fit a sti8 TMIC to my car (same phase 1.5 inlet as yours) and your putting me off lol

i might just fit an updated wrx version which isnt quite so massive

911

No, the fun is making it happen! Seems a bit daunting, but I'm just giving the detail as it happens. Found a friend to do the welding, but need some 3mm thick aluminium sheet....
911.

Dyney

Graham,
Coming along nicely

I did think about the STI7/8 IC but not knowing whether it would fit put me off paying £300+ and then hacking it about.
So I bought the MY02 WRX one.
I see the pics have come in handy and the cardboard fin protector idea is working well
Pity Photobucket is down at the moment
I don't recall having to "mod" the bulkhead bracket for the WRX IC.

If the ISCV is going to be too tighter fit. Take a bit more out of the end tank when you take the DV mount off and have it welded up with it shaped round it Not ideal but might alow you a little more room at the bulkhead to get the strut brace back on. (Looks a little tight there as is!)

What are you going to do about the IC duct on the bonnet underside?
I cut the std MY97 one out at the crease to enlarge it, but the STI IC is sooo much bigger

Keep going
I want to see what you get from a 2l with almost the same mods as my 2.5

Dyney

StickyMicky,
If you want to fit a new age WRX IC you need to see the pics Graham is working from

David_Wallis

I can weld ally for free , but im sure your not near leeds.

911

David, thanks for the offer, I'm in the West Midlands, so may yet call you if the first attempt 'melts away' (sorry).
Dyney, don't suppose you made 2 of your 'blanking plates' did you, one you used and one for me? (happy to pay you)
Getting a simple sheet of alloy today has been a killer...

The pic off Dyney's thread is my model as I simply need to scale it up a bit.

I'm ok with steel, just that alloy is beyond me.
Taking a hacksaw to the TMIC tomorrow, hope I get all the bits out!
Graham.

David_Wallis

why cutting it.. just bolt / weld a plate over

David

911

Absolutly NO room to do that.
Need to cut out the bottom of the cast header tank in the DV area, about a length of 150mm and weld in a new panel to blank it off and re-position the dv tube to the very far end of the tank. Wish you could see how Dyney did it and you will see why this is needed.
Will impeed the air flow through that part of the TMIC, but I'm here now, no turning back.
Graham.

Dyney

OK fed up with Photobucket being down! So I have hosted a few pics elsewhere

Will get them up when they have cleared

Dyney

And at that Photobucket comes back online








Finished

911

Well done Dyney, you cant believe the number of times I've looked at the last photo today....
You seem to have more room to me than my Sti8
Today's fun and games:

Got fed-up trying to fing alum sheet/tube, so made my own tubes



Then came the big moment, cutting the TMIC and endless messing to get the angles of all the tubes right. Must admit I over-cut and ended with lots of clearance, but managed to curve the blanking plate to restore the 'volume' in that area of the header tank:





Wish I had a welder now!
It all fits and the bonnet does actually close; there is about a 2mm gap between the IC and angthing on the inlet manifold, so job's done.

Just to amuse myself:
Is this lot a
Work of Art?
Awonder of the (Scooby) World?
A very high cost?
Enough to scare the 5 Speeder wit-less?



OK, enough for now.

HAPPY NEW YEAR, speak to you all again next year.

Graham.

vulnax999

iTrader: (7)

Happy new year too!

Dyney

You really went to town on the IC didn't you!!
Glad the pics have helped.

Looks excellent


As for the sculpture.
A very expensive piece of Scooby art
Titled: Scare the 5 speeder!

Dyney

LMAO @ WD40 "TRADE SIZE"

Wonder Wagon

Your not rapping the turbo then??

Looking good

vulnax999

iTrader: (7)

Can anyone do a Turbo rap?

"I came here looking for boost
Then I found a guy who gave me some juice
Wired my wastegate and screwed my dump
Made me a 400 bhp pump"

or can you do better!

911

You need a Trade Size to get the box off the engine........but that was last year.
Wrapping the turbo seems an impossibility to me, but will try today if I'm allowed to go in the garage ( )
I recon it will look like a football when done, but worth a try.

Need to start on the petrol side also while I wait for various bits to arrive, 550cc/SX FPR and the Walbro. Then there is the suspension to clean...might take the ALK off to allow the front wishbone a true alignment instead of binding.

I only embarked on the 'Sti8' TMIC because of your thread Dyney! You made it sound so easy...........

999: Never heard of anyone who has done that!

Graham.

Tim W

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if you've tried this, but the when I took my gearbox out for the first time I cleaned both mating surfaces and put a smear of copper grease on them, it's made subsequent gearbox removals an adsolute doddle, because there's no corrosion

911

Yep, certainly did that after the real struggle the first time. I turned about 0.1mm off the dowl pin dia where it locates in the engine to ease that too.
Worst job I've ever done on a car.
911.

Happy New Year!

StickyMicky

could you not bolt a plate on, but slightly hammer the ic to clear the affected parts?

911

No chance, the TMIC tanks are cast, one thump and it will crack or distort and the IC will leak; it will be under quite some pressure at full boost.

Dyney, if you are reading this, what Samco elbow did you use to link the 'Y' piece of the TMIC to the turbo outlet? The stock Sti8 is far too short.
Anyone got a spare, good stock Sti v3 inlet? (MAF to turbo inlet)

911

911

Pissed off now!

Just pulled the first stock injector from the engine.
Comparing with the ones I have, reputedly 550cc suitable for the engine (etc) seems to me they are not.
I need your help here, are these the right 'form' to sit in the Sti v3 engine? I know they are 550's but will they fit/seal



There are removable collars which seem to enable the injector to go into the housing on the engine, but the fitting on the end-cap is totally different.
Is this the Phase 1 and phase 2 difference?

Advice from the 'knowledgables' please! (that means anyone other than me)

911

Delboy2

Those STi V3 440's look identical (appart from colour) to my std 380cc's (Phase 1) - The 550's shown also look identical to the ones I fitted (Denso 550's) but with my own adapters - Those 550's with the adapters should fit/seal in your rails

Cheers

Delboy2

It also looks from the piccies that the O'ring from the bottom of the OEM injector is still located in the fuel rail (Its not on the injector you have removed). As the lower adapter on the 550 has one fitted (shown in your piccie) the OEM O'ring needs to be removed

Cheers