Head gasket blown, high power upgraded engine rebuild choice help needed.
12 November 2004, 11:02 AM
#31
If you want a budget motor, then I would also consider a complete shortblock from one of the US engine builder/tuners like Crawford Peformance.
Pauter and Crower do nice relatively cheap rods
CP, Wiseco, je for pistons
ACL bearings
Cometic head gaskets
RCMS oil pump
Piper Cams
Now all of that is available from various places in the UK. Lateral Performance for one would be able to supply the whole lot as a package for you to assemble. The prices well be good enough for you spend a little extra and not worry about dealing with 4-5 different suppliers in the US and all the various delivery charges/issues.
Pauter and Crower do nice relatively cheap rods
CP, Wiseco, je for pistons
ACL bearings
Cometic head gaskets
RCMS oil pump
Piper Cams
Now all of that is available from various places in the UK. Lateral Performance for one would be able to supply the whole lot as a package for you to assemble. The prices well be good enough for you spend a little extra and not worry about dealing with 4-5 different suppliers in the US and all the various delivery charges/issues.
12 November 2004, 11:02 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by Pavlo
That's not really what I meant. For instance there are various recommendations on here for Roger Clark Motorsport, and they supply a number of RCMS branded items, like headstuds, gaskets and whatever. But they are not going to tell you exactly where they are made so you can go direct and get them for a little cheaper.
If you want to buy pistons, rods, turbos or whatever that are not widely used and relatively proven, go ahead, but you are going to be the beta tester. The products suggested here so far have been tested to some extent and come with a degree of assurance, unfortunately some of them are only available through conventional channels. That doesn't stop your tuner friend trying to get some of these parts at trade prices though.
Paul
If you want to buy pistons, rods, turbos or whatever that are not widely used and relatively proven, go ahead, but you are going to be the beta tester. The products suggested here so far have been tested to some extent and come with a degree of assurance, unfortunately some of them are only available through conventional channels. That doesn't stop your tuner friend trying to get some of these parts at trade prices though.
Paul
As you say tuners find what works and then rebrand them to stop you buying sirect. Thats the way the world works and I have no problem with that. The only issue is that im my experience its not a small saving that can be made, it can be huge. Taking Wisecos as an example, I have seen them priced in the UK at over triple the price that they can be sourced at!
The same goes for turbo kits, they retail at 50% over what you can pay and when youre looking at a £2.7k kit (at retail in UK) then youre looking at very serious savings
Carriage is a non issue for me, the parts will just be brought over with one of our usual shipments.
I need to stress that Im in a privalidged position and savings will be nothing like as big for most people, Im not trying to stop people buying from the established UK sources :no:
Last edited by bren@apex; 12 November 2004 at 11:07 AM.
12 November 2004, 11:06 AM
#33
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Originally Posted by Pavlo
If you want a budget motor, then I would also consider a complete shortblock from one of the US engine builder/tuners like Crawford Peformance.
Pauter and Crower do nice relatively cheap rods
CP, Wiseco, je for pistons
ACL bearings
Cometic head gaskets
RCMS oil pump
Piper Cams
Now all of that is available from various places in the UK. Lateral Performance for one would be able to supply the whole lot as a package for you to assemble. The prices well be good enough for you spend a little extra and not worry about dealing with 4-5 different suppliers in the US and all the various delivery charges/issues.
Pauter and Crower do nice relatively cheap rods
CP, Wiseco, je for pistons
ACL bearings
Cometic head gaskets
RCMS oil pump
Piper Cams
Now all of that is available from various places in the UK. Lateral Performance for one would be able to supply the whole lot as a package for you to assemble. The prices well be good enough for you spend a little extra and not worry about dealing with 4-5 different suppliers in the US and all the various delivery charges/issues.
Cometic work ok then? Ive got some of them kicking around for Nissans but dare not fit them because theyre untried in the UK. I know theyre used a lot in the US but Ive been told a lot of stuff works in the US but when we try the parts ourselves they turn out to be junk
12 November 2004, 11:08 AM
#34
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Pauter do rods for your car, most of the big cc USA engines use them, also CP pistons are very popular in high power builds.
If you are shopping in the states then check these guys out....
http://www.crawfordperformance.com/home/index.shtml
Quirt Crawford was involved in the design of the pistons and the ARP head studs. He has been in the Subaru business longer that most of us.
Andy
If you are shopping in the states then check these guys out....
http://www.crawfordperformance.com/home/index.shtml
Quirt Crawford was involved in the design of the pistons and the ARP head studs. He has been in the Subaru business longer that most of us.
Andy
12 November 2004, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
£2.7k for a turbo kit!!! Jesus, thats expensive
Turbo
External wastegate
Down pipe
Air filter
Tubular manifold
All gaskets
All oil/feed return lines
When you consider an HKS tubular manifold will set you back £900 in the UK and a branded ext wastegate will cost you around £600 it doesnt look so exspensive
And I didnt say that was a good price, I said thats what youd normally pay in the UK 
Ball bearing turbos are far cheaper, under £600, but thats all you get, a turbo.
12 November 2004, 11:27 AM
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Ahh, that makes more sense.
Headers, go to gruppe s, www.gruppe-s.com, they are replicas of the HKS and work well, can get them into uk for under £400.
Depending on how turbo is configured, ie standard or rotated, then they are available in uk at reasonable prices.
Wastegates in the uk can be had for less too.
Speak to Mark at Lateral, anyone at RCMS, they should give you an idea of whats available, at different prices.
Importing is good, if you have the time and patience, if your already doing this then its a further benefit.
Headers, go to gruppe s, www.gruppe-s.com, they are replicas of the HKS and work well, can get them into uk for under £400.
Depending on how turbo is configured, ie standard or rotated, then they are available in uk at reasonable prices.
Wastegates in the uk can be had for less too.
Speak to Mark at Lateral, anyone at RCMS, they should give you an idea of whats available, at different prices.
Importing is good, if you have the time and patience, if your already doing this then its a further benefit.
12 November 2004, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
Ahh, that makes more sense.
Headers, go to gruppe s, www.gruppe-s.com, they are replicas of the HKS and work well, can get them into uk for under £400.
Depending on how turbo is configured, ie standard or rotated, then they are available in uk at reasonable prices.
Wastegates in the uk can be had for less too.
Speak to Mark at Lateral, anyone at RCMS, they should give you an idea of whats available, at different prices.
Importing is good, if you have the time and patience, if your already doing this then its a further benefit.
Headers, go to gruppe s, www.gruppe-s.com, they are replicas of the HKS and work well, can get them into uk for under £400.
Depending on how turbo is configured, ie standard or rotated, then they are available in uk at reasonable prices.
Wastegates in the uk can be had for less too.
Speak to Mark at Lateral, anyone at RCMS, they should give you an idea of whats available, at different prices.
Importing is good, if you have the time and patience, if your already doing this then its a further benefit.
Ive emailed Gruppe and Crawford for some more information on the headers and engines.
Thanks for the help guys, this is exactly what I needed
12 November 2004, 11:59 AM
#39
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dont email gruppe s, your better off ringing them, far quicker response, ie weeks quicker.
you may be surprised as Paul suggested, at some of the prices the suppliers listed can get.
you may be surprised as Paul suggested, at some of the prices the suppliers listed can get.
12 November 2004, 12:05 PM
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Forgive my quirky mind Bren, but you sound like you've had experience in tuning Japanese cars (or your tuner people) and are now wanting to delve in to the foray of Subaru tuning?
Looking back at the beginning of the thread it comes across that you're starting out with a relatively "serious" engine build, which, if that is the case, the situation on Subaru tuning at that level (500+) is not signed, sealed, common knowledge and proven. 400, yes, but 5.. no.
There are still a number of issues with the larger capacity Subaru engines which haven't been ironed out yet, so the definitive answers are not readily available yet.
Good luck in your quest and may i ask, as i'm sure others would appreciate, if you can also provide amateurs such as myself the wisdom of what you find on this path. Could be beneficial having other ideas / experiences from an outsider ( so to speak).
Looking back at the beginning of the thread it comes across that you're starting out with a relatively "serious" engine build, which, if that is the case, the situation on Subaru tuning at that level (500+) is not signed, sealed, common knowledge and proven. 400, yes, but 5.. no.
There are still a number of issues with the larger capacity Subaru engines which haven't been ironed out yet, so the definitive answers are not readily available yet.
Good luck in your quest and may i ask, as i'm sure others would appreciate, if you can also provide amateurs such as myself the wisdom of what you find on this path. Could be beneficial having other ideas / experiences from an outsider ( so to speak).
12 November 2004, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by AlanG
Forgive my quirky mind Bren, but you sound like you've had experience in tuning Japanese cars (or your tuner people) and are now wanting to delve in to the foray of Subaru tuning?
Looking back at the beginning of the thread it comes across that you're starting out with a relatively "serious" engine build, which, if that is the case, the situation on Subaru tuning at that level (500+) is not signed, sealed, common knowledge and proven. 400, yes, but 5.. no.
There are still a number of issues with the larger capacity Subaru engines which haven't been ironed out yet, so the definitive answers are not readily available yet.
Good luck in your quest and may i ask, as i'm sure others would appreciate, if you can also provide amateurs such as myself the wisdom of what you find on this path. Could be beneficial having other ideas / experiences from an outsider ( so to speak).
Looking back at the beginning of the thread it comes across that you're starting out with a relatively "serious" engine build, which, if that is the case, the situation on Subaru tuning at that level (500+) is not signed, sealed, common knowledge and proven. 400, yes, but 5.. no.
There are still a number of issues with the larger capacity Subaru engines which haven't been ironed out yet, so the definitive answers are not readily available yet.
Good luck in your quest and may i ask, as i'm sure others would appreciate, if you can also provide amateurs such as myself the wisdom of what you find on this path. Could be beneficial having other ideas / experiences from an outsider ( so to speak).
We also have a long term S14 200SX project that we got to 430bhp on standard rods and pistons before started selling the engine etc to get ready for the next stage. To give an idea of the power we are aiming for I already have a Greddy T78 turbo kit and HUGE Greddy intercooler waiting to be fitted. Thats a 700+bhp turbo
I also had an £8.5k Tomei engine paid for an ordered but the suppliers let me down and told me 6 weeks after Id ordered it that the order hadnt been put through to Tomei. That was through a well known and respected UK supplier btw. If Id have ordered from my jap guys then the engine would have been here months ago.
The above gives you an idea of my metality towards tuning cars. If we have to pull out the Subarus engine to sort the head gasket then I might as well go the whole hog and build the whole engine. I didnt intend to take the Impreza so far so soon, I was aiming for 330bhp for the forseable future as the S14 project is not proving cheap. However the h/g gone so Ive been pushed into sorting the Subaru properly sooner rather than later.
Any and all information I glean from the build process will be freely available to all.
Last edited by bren@apex; 12 November 2004 at 12:17 PM.
12 November 2004, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Pavlo
The greddy kit for the subaru doesn't include the manifold, just the up-pipe. There are much better solutions for less money when it comes to a subaru.
Paul
Paul
12 November 2004, 02:31 PM
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Such as do it yourself ! Modify a 'normal' up/down pipe to suit your chosen turbo and save a packet !
Pavlo supplied my turbo and wastegate, I altered the pipework to suit, total cost circa £1500 for a 500bhp Garrett GT30R set up.
Andy
Pavlo supplied my turbo and wastegate, I altered the pipework to suit, total cost circa £1500 for a 500bhp Garrett GT30R set up.
Andy
12 November 2004, 02:38 PM
#48
That is the best route I would say. Pipework can be made and added to the turbo of your choice, or buy a complete kit (for more money).
Although 450hp is still within the bounds of bolt on turbo, but I think the flexibility offered by making your own pipework allows a better turbo not handicapped by having to fit around the factory location.
Paul
Although 450hp is still within the bounds of bolt on turbo, but I think the flexibility offered by making your own pipework allows a better turbo not handicapped by having to fit around the factory location.
Paul
14 November 2004, 05:41 PM
#50
Bren: It looks like you have innocently touched on a few raw nerves here. Good luck with your Scooby build. If the sheep mentality still existed then these cars would never have got to 400bhp.
Here is the spec for a 400bhp car and one with quite a bit more. Both 2 litre.
www.geocities.com/harveysmith3000
Ill be looking for around 450bhp. But a reliable 450bhp, if possible.
450 bhp reliable is not a problem, providing you use the right components and an experienced, competant engine builder.
The cars got the basics, exhaust, Walbro etc and will be getting a Hybrid intercooler.
Im into tuning Nissan 200s so on that basis Ive a (very) rough short list drawn up in my mind:
Metal headgaskets : There is nothing wrong with the O/E Subaru gaskets.
Similarly there is no need to go to fancy after market bearings.
Forged pistons : A piston change is advisable. My last engine had Cosworth pistons and the next will have Omega.
Rods (needed??) : Best to uprate the rods but probably not essential. I know Arrow rods are good and reliable from my own experiences.
Clutch (Cusco?Exedy?OS Giken single or maybe twin plate kit) :
: A single plate, AP Racing Organic Up-rated is OK at the power level you are looking for and available off the shelf.
Oil cooler : Probably not necessary. Fit an oil temperature guage to know for sure. Some cars run hotter than others. Most cars will only need this for HARD track use.
Turbo kit (Greddy TD06 20G 8cm2) : Probably capable but at the top end of its ability. There are several other options if you want them.
Omex management : No experience of this. Possibly consider an Apexi Power FC, subject to the ability and price of the Omex.
740cc injectors :550s will max out before 450bhp in normal circumstances so 740s are a logical choice.
Ive some questions:
1) I cant seem to find anyone doing head gaskets, pistons or rods I know Omega and Wiseco do pistons. Where can they be sourced and are there any alternatives. I can get Wisecos for good money, are they any good in Subarus?
O/E head gaskets and bearings. Arrow rods and Omega pistons are all available from RCMS or possibly direct from the manufacturer.
2) Who does rods and are they needed at around 450bhp? O/E may be OK but for the cost of a rebuild it might be safer to go with Arrow.
3) What clutches work in these cars at around 450bhp? : AP Racing Organic Uprated Single Plate.
4) How well do the 93 RA heads flow and how good are the cams/valve springs? Do they need changing for 450bhp? No. These are OK in good condition. Some light porting of heads and manifolds will help.
5) Does any more of the valve train need changing to be able to rev the engine to 7500-7800k rpm? Titanium retainers? : As above.
6) Where can I get a 6 speed box and the conversion parts OR who does an uprated kit for the standard box? :
For a six speed API engines will supply only or supply and fit I understand. I think RCMS will do an all in fitting too.
The six speed is a good bit heavier than the five speed. The first four gears are very close together, particularly for a powerful car. The Jap 5th and 6th are lower than the UK 5th and 6th. Jap 6th is a bit manic on motorway cruising. UK 6th is probably too high on track unless you want to do the Nurberg Ring.
Also consider an STi 5 or 6 box when you break the existing. The casing is stronger and the gears stand up reasonably well.
A dog box kit will cost around £3500 from MRT or PPG.
Gruppe 'S' do an uprated kit for comparably not a lot of money but I have no experience of that but would like to know more.
7) I want to drag this cxar from time to time so the drivetrain has to be strong. Are the standard diffs/prop/driveshafts ok with 450bhp and drag starts?
The standard drivetrain, other than the older boxes is quite strong and 450 bhp should not be a problem.
8) Im assuming the standard oil pumps ok for 450bhp. Will I be ok with a new standard pump?
Apparently there have been instances of the standard pump, pressure relief plunger sticking open. The RCMS supplied pump has a minor modification to prevent this. Small cost in relation to the overall engine cost.
Anything else Ive missed?
Tubular headers. Gruppe 'S'/ Ion.
A good 3" exhaust, as straight as possible with no sharp turns.
A fuel pressure regulator such as the SX which will work up to 6 bar. FSE at 5 bar is probably too low for your application.
450 bhp reliable is not a problem, providing you use the right components and an experienced, competant engine builder.
The cars got the basics, exhaust, Walbro etc and will be getting a Hybrid intercooler.
Im into tuning Nissan 200s so on that basis Ive a (very) rough short list drawn up in my mind:
Metal headgaskets : There is nothing wrong with the O/E Subaru gaskets.
Similarly there is no need to go to fancy after market bearings.
Forged pistons : A piston change is advisable. My last engine had Cosworth pistons and the next will have Omega.
Rods (needed??) : Best to uprate the rods but probably not essential. I know Arrow rods are good and reliable from my own experiences.
Clutch (Cusco?Exedy?OS Giken single or maybe twin plate kit) :
: A single plate, AP Racing Organic Up-rated is OK at the power level you are looking for and available off the shelf.
Oil cooler : Probably not necessary. Fit an oil temperature guage to know for sure. Some cars run hotter than others. Most cars will only need this for HARD track use.
Turbo kit (Greddy TD06 20G 8cm2) : Probably capable but at the top end of its ability. There are several other options if you want them.
Omex management : No experience of this. Possibly consider an Apexi Power FC, subject to the ability and price of the Omex.
740cc injectors :550s will max out before 450bhp in normal circumstances so 740s are a logical choice.
Ive some questions:
1) I cant seem to find anyone doing head gaskets, pistons or rods I know Omega and Wiseco do pistons. Where can they be sourced and are there any alternatives. I can get Wisecos for good money, are they any good in Subarus?
O/E head gaskets and bearings. Arrow rods and Omega pistons are all available from RCMS or possibly direct from the manufacturer.
2) Who does rods and are they needed at around 450bhp? O/E may be OK but for the cost of a rebuild it might be safer to go with Arrow.
3) What clutches work in these cars at around 450bhp? : AP Racing Organic Uprated Single Plate.
4) How well do the 93 RA heads flow and how good are the cams/valve springs? Do they need changing for 450bhp? No. These are OK in good condition. Some light porting of heads and manifolds will help.
5) Does any more of the valve train need changing to be able to rev the engine to 7500-7800k rpm? Titanium retainers? : As above.
6) Where can I get a 6 speed box and the conversion parts OR who does an uprated kit for the standard box? :
For a six speed API engines will supply only or supply and fit I understand. I think RCMS will do an all in fitting too.
The six speed is a good bit heavier than the five speed. The first four gears are very close together, particularly for a powerful car. The Jap 5th and 6th are lower than the UK 5th and 6th. Jap 6th is a bit manic on motorway cruising. UK 6th is probably too high on track unless you want to do the Nurberg Ring.
Also consider an STi 5 or 6 box when you break the existing. The casing is stronger and the gears stand up reasonably well.
A dog box kit will cost around £3500 from MRT or PPG.
Gruppe 'S' do an uprated kit for comparably not a lot of money but I have no experience of that but would like to know more.
7) I want to drag this cxar from time to time so the drivetrain has to be strong. Are the standard diffs/prop/driveshafts ok with 450bhp and drag starts?
The standard drivetrain, other than the older boxes is quite strong and 450 bhp should not be a problem.
8) Im assuming the standard oil pumps ok for 450bhp. Will I be ok with a new standard pump?
Apparently there have been instances of the standard pump, pressure relief plunger sticking open. The RCMS supplied pump has a minor modification to prevent this. Small cost in relation to the overall engine cost.
Anything else Ive missed?
Tubular headers. Gruppe 'S'/ Ion.
A good 3" exhaust, as straight as possible with no sharp turns.
A fuel pressure regulator such as the SX which will work up to 6 bar. FSE at 5 bar is probably too low for your application.
www.geocities.com/harveysmith3000
Last edited by harvey; 14 November 2004 at 05:49 PM.
15 November 2004, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by harvey
Bren: It looks like you have innocently touched on a few raw nerves here. Good luck with your Scooby build. If the sheep mentality still existed then these cars would never have got to 400bhp.
Here is the spec for a 400bhp car and one with quite a bit more. Both 2 litre.
www.geocities.com/harveysmith3000
Here is the spec for a 400bhp car and one with quite a bit more. Both 2 litre.
www.geocities.com/harveysmith3000
And its ok with that? I was looking at maybe a twin plate because the AP organics in the S14 200s can struggle with 280lb/ft and drag starts and thats in a 2wd car. Evidently the Scooby clutchs are completely different and its info like that which will help prevent me spending more than necessary We have a Power FC landing in a day or two but I got the impression that the Subaru afms and map sensors can be problematic hence me looking at at stand alone management. The Omex system itself isnt so exspensive but you have to buy a number of additional parts and then the car has to be mapped from scratch which is obviously more exspensive than tweaking the FC map. If the FCs ok then Ill stick with the one thats coming in a day or two
The car will get hard track use (it was on the track last weekend and the weekend before and might be on again at Silverstone next week if I decide to trust the h/gasket to hold out) and coolers are dirt cheap so Ill probably fit a thermostatic one anyway, just as a precaution.
Ill probably go for Omega pistons as theyre tried and tested.
I can get some really well priced bb turbos so Ill look into getting one of those modified rather than going for a full kit.
Will an STi five speed box fit straight in? I believe you need an auto driveshaft and some other parts to fit the late 6 speed box?
Ill get onto RCSM re an oil pump.
Ive had a reply from Gruppe so will source one of their headers.
Ive had a reply from Crawford so will have a look through it shortly.
At the moment the spec looks like:
Omega pistons
Pauter rods
Standard h/gaskets
Standard bearings
Standard cams and valvetrain
Worked heads
RCMS modded oil pump
SX fuel regulator
740 injectors
AP organic clutch
Exedy/Fidenza flywheel
19 row thermo oil cooler
Hybrid intercooler
Gruppe S headers
The cars already got a 3" HKS down pipe, 3" Fujitsubo high flow cat centre section and Fujitsubo cat back system so the exhausts sorted.
I just need to work out what turbo to go for, what management and what g/box.
15 November 2004, 10:41 AM
#52
I would probably opt for some othe bearings. Std ones are fine if you don't abuse the engine, but the ACL/Clevite lead/copper bearings should offer some better resistance to picking up. That said I have not heard of any main bearing failures, only big ends.
The FC is good, but you will need a nissan Z32 (300zx) maf sensor to accomodate 450hp reliably. If you want to get proper ALS for a track car then look at Autronic, as they now do a plug in board for all ages of Impreza.
I found the AP organic clutch to be okay, but am now using the AP 4 paddle clutch. It's not very nice at all on the road, and very juddery, but it's cheap and holds lots of torque. On a 2.0 engine the reduced torque should make the organic a good choice.
I would try and use standard gaskets where possible, but this isn't always (ie if you have a 2.2 block).
Paul
The FC is good, but you will need a nissan Z32 (300zx) maf sensor to accomodate 450hp reliably. If you want to get proper ALS for a track car then look at Autronic, as they now do a plug in board for all ages of Impreza.
I found the AP organic clutch to be okay, but am now using the AP 4 paddle clutch. It's not very nice at all on the road, and very juddery, but it's cheap and holds lots of torque. On a 2.0 engine the reduced torque should make the organic a good choice.
I would try and use standard gaskets where possible, but this isn't always (ie if you have a 2.2 block).
Paul
15 November 2004, 11:13 AM
#53
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Originally Posted by Pavlo
I would probably opt for some othe bearings. Std ones are fine if you don't abuse the engine, but the ACL/Clevite lead/copper bearings should offer some better resistance to picking up. That said I have not heard of any main bearing failures, only big ends.
The FC is good, but you will need a nissan Z32 (300zx) maf sensor to accomodate 450hp reliably. If you want to get proper ALS for a track car then look at Autronic, as they now do a plug in board for all ages of Impreza.
I found the AP organic clutch to be okay, but am now using the AP 4 paddle clutch. It's not very nice at all on the road, and very juddery, but it's cheap and holds lots of torque. On a 2.0 engine the reduced torque should make the organic a good choice.
I would try and use standard gaskets where possible, but this isn't always (ie if you have a 2.2 block).
Paul
The FC is good, but you will need a nissan Z32 (300zx) maf sensor to accomodate 450hp reliably. If you want to get proper ALS for a track car then look at Autronic, as they now do a plug in board for all ages of Impreza.
I found the AP organic clutch to be okay, but am now using the AP 4 paddle clutch. It's not very nice at all on the road, and very juddery, but it's cheap and holds lots of torque. On a 2.0 engine the reduced torque should make the organic a good choice.
I would try and use standard gaskets where possible, but this isn't always (ie if you have a 2.2 block).
Paul
Ive got a spare 300ZX afm as we ditched the original plan to run a Greddy E Manage on the S13 200SX and went for OMEX so the S13s new 300 afm and plug is spare
What size is the throttle body on the RA? Anyone know? Will it need enlarging?
I dont really want to run a paddle as the car will be an everyday driver. Thats what I was looking at the twin plates in the first instance. RPS do a 6 puck clutch for the 200s which is excellent to drive with, very much like an organic. Maybe they do one for the Subaru. Ill have a look.
18 November 2004, 03:23 PM
#54
The five speed STi 5 box is a straight fit for you.
The AP Racing Organic Uprated worked well with no judder or slip at 464 ft/lbs but as I said I tore out the centre at Bruntingthorpe. It avoids some of the transmission shock from harsher clutches so it is obviously kinder to the gear box.
Do not go too light on the flywheel as it makes reliable drag starts a much more precise operation. When I change my old gearbox I am taking off a 4.6kg RCMS flywheel and fitting an O/E that I am machining down to around 8kg. Very cheap. Very effective.
The AP Racing Organic Uprated worked well with no judder or slip at 464 ft/lbs but as I said I tore out the centre at Bruntingthorpe. It avoids some of the transmission shock from harsher clutches so it is obviously kinder to the gear box.
Do not go too light on the flywheel as it makes reliable drag starts a much more precise operation. When I change my old gearbox I am taking off a 4.6kg RCMS flywheel and fitting an O/E that I am machining down to around 8kg. Very cheap. Very effective.
18 November 2004, 04:08 PM
#55
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Beware of the "upgrades"
Originally Posted by Pavlo
I would probably opt for some othe bearings. Std ones are fine if you don't abuse the engine, but the ACL/Clevite lead/copper bearings should offer some better resistance to picking up. That said I have not heard of any main bearing failures, only big ends.
Paul
Paul
How does 556bhp with N2O running 10 x 10 second 1/4 mile runs in a few hours sound for a std bearings ability
The most recent big end failure I heard of was actually using "upgraded" bearings and that was only running 12 sec 1/4's
Andy
19 November 2004, 10:36 AM
#59
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Second Quirt at Crawford Performance.
Power FC is fine if you change the MAF sensor as Pavlo says. Wasn't Andy working on a MAF replacement black box for these or am I talking bollocks?!
I'm running one of Quirt's 2.65 Litre engine albeit at low boost at present and extremely pleased with it.
Problem with 6 speed boxes and high power is the first 4 gears are extremely short. P20SPD commented on the 5 speed ratios being better for high power except the strength was an issue?
Autronic is very competitive price wise too. The Hydra Nemesis ECU in the states seems to be taking off but at launch there was a few issues in tuning that Quirt and Chris @ I-Speed found. Don't know if these have been sorted yet. For the money Autronic is the better option.
Jon.
Power FC is fine if you change the MAF sensor as Pavlo says. Wasn't Andy working on a MAF replacement black box for these or am I talking bollocks?!
I'm running one of Quirt's 2.65 Litre engine albeit at low boost at present and extremely pleased with it.
Problem with 6 speed boxes and high power is the first 4 gears are extremely short. P20SPD commented on the 5 speed ratios being better for high power except the strength was an issue?
Autronic is very competitive price wise too. The Hydra Nemesis ECU in the states seems to be taking off but at launch there was a few issues in tuning that Quirt and Chris @ I-Speed found. Don't know if these have been sorted yet. For the money Autronic is the better option.
Jon.
19 November 2004, 05:17 PM
#60
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I was referring to a French car which was running Motec on a USA built engine.
I have a maf conversion box Jon but prefer to use the maf sensor for anything up to 600bhp
Andy.
I have a maf conversion box Jon but prefer to use the maf sensor for anything up to 600bhp
Andy.