Frank, i think you should check/tell people whether the box will need axle stubbs or not, especially those that dont know how to fit one them selves.

The axle stubbs are from special order at subaru, so if you have it booked in for fitting, and then suddenly need the axle stubbs, it can set you back a day or so whilst they arrive from subaru.

Thats not a dig btw, just think people should be made aware of wether the stubbs are missing or not.

Part numbers for stubbs and c clip needed are as follows

38415AA110 Shaft Axle Drive
805329010 Clip

About £90 to £100 for 2 of each.

If you dont know what i am on about, then if you can see through the front diff, your misssing the axle stubbs , if you cant see through, you may have them both, or you may have 1 missing

My original JDM box was missing the axle stubbs, and another one i have fitted was missing one stubb, so it seems it could be quite common.

Steven

 

Steven, only found this out yesterday when Scott gave me a shout.

On mine, Jap, one axle stub was missing. However, when we fitted it at the garage, dad must have grabbed another one and fitted it without me seeing. As far i was concerned it fitted in spot on.

Out of the 3-4 gearboxes i have managed to get, one guy took the complete front drive shafts and the rest never bothered. With them i dont believe the axle stubs were in either. They never told me axle stubs were needed so assumed everything was ok. They took the boxes were away, and were happy they got a deal so i dont think they came back to me asking where the axle stubs are.

Not sure why the supplier would take these out? Maybe he breaks them pulling the box out? Maybe he throws them away? No idea. To be honest, the guy is a bit of an idiot as i still dont think he knows how rare the 6 speed is at the mo

 

Frank, just thought i would make you aware.

2 methods of removing drive shafts.

a) knock dowel pin out where DS joins axel stubb (green boot), and slide drive shaft off the axle stubb.

b) pull whole driveshaft and axel stubb out. this can cause damage to the stub seal, and is a blunt waay of doing it IMO.

method B suggests someone who doesnt know how to take them apart, a bit similar to the people who just cut the wiring loom near the connectors, when they didnt even need removing!

if he breaks them whilst removing, he is an animal!

i thought the front drive shafts wouldnt work, unless on a MY01 + saloon, due to track width being different.

I believe you need the correct axle stubbs, as not all the c clip grooves are the same in the front diffs, so the stubbs may not be fully secure.

thought you might find the part numbers usefull for future reference.

Hows your JDM one going

 

Deffo Steven, much appreciated. Part numbers are always good.

To behonest i think this guy uses option B, doesnt know what he is doing and just pulls them out. Which is a pain in the ****.

JDM one is going well. I dont do to much motorway so i find myself cruising to work in 5th or 6th. I keep saying i should change to a UK but at the moment dont have a time and am quite looking forward to connecting up the DCCD.

Yours?

 

6 speed was great (uk one) for the mileage i was doing, JDM was just too short gearing. Now i had the ZR as the daily binder, i wonder wether the JDM would have been better. Probably not due to the rev limit of the 2.5.

Nice you got a DCCD, get it connected up. Your running a motec arent you? you can get a control from them i believe?

 

How can you increase the rev limiter of the 2.5?

Yep running motec. I didnt know i can get a control from them, will do some investigating.

Cheers

 

Simple, edit the RPM limit on the Motec . Stronger internals must help i guess.

 

the weight of the piston is your main concern, as are the valve springs / retainer / shim arrangement.

David

 

frank, which heads are you using? if si, should be good for 8000.

As david says, weight of pistons is the limiting factor.

one thing I have found on mine is that I dont need more than 5500 rpm. the idea of revving to more than 7500 is massively alien to me, it is just producing too much too soon to warrant it.

 

Adam,

You're not getting the most out of your car if you change at 5500, not by a long shot.

Paul

 

Adam, if thats the case, i will swap your heads and cams with mine!

Look in the footwell, there are 3 pedals, press the one on the right fully until resistance is met, hold it there until the rpm indicator light comes on.

Steven

if rpm indicator comes on at 5500, cantinue as currently, if not, try harder

 

FPMSL!!! too right!

 

lol,

I know what you mean guys, but having not been used to it, it feels like all hell is breaking loose, and the noises the turbo starts making and the force shoving me in the seat is incredible.

rob says the 35r doesnt start to sing until its at 1.6/1.7 bar minimum. If this is the 400bhp he says it is, then I have no idea what 550/600 is going to feel like, I really cantg believe there is another 35/40% to come.

I did venture to 7000 once and it did continue pulling very very hard indeed, in fact it doesnt really come on cam until above 5000. It is almost vtec like in the delivery and the engine note changes.

I will persevere, and I promise I will use it to its full potential, I just can't imagine something that fast.

and btw guys, SHUT IT!

if you had been driving a 115bhp golf for the last two years 400bhp would take you by surprise too.

 

be careful in the wet, even in straight lines!

 

Well said paul..

I think driving with extreme caution is the best bet.. or just pretend your in my diesel death trap.. £20each non remould NEW tyres =

David

 

yeah have noticed the back already squirming under power in the dry, not eally tried it in the wet as I tend to treat rain as if it was ice as at this stage of getting used to it it isn't worth the risk.

Winding the diff forward a little seems to help with the squirming, and I am guessing the 255 profile tires also can do something to keep things in check.

 

lol at Steven!

Adam you will venture near the 7000rpm limit. Give it about 2 weeks then you will want more.

Cheers David and Steven. At the moment im using the standard wrx heads and cams. I have a set of STI3 complete heads to go on so should be good for that bigger rev limiter?

Looking to change the pistons on the EJ25 to. Any recommendations? CP? Lateral? JE? (JE are bl**dy cheap at the mo)

 

its more than just the heads.

My heads are probably good for 9 or 10 k.

I would say its more the weight of the pistons and the load that puts on the bearings.

As I have said a few times, andy f calculated that the tensile load on the roads due to high revving was much higher than the compressive loads on the rods due to high torque. If you translate the load on the rods to the load on the bearinsg which it is the same as, you will understand that increasing the revs by a factor of 1.2 is far worse than increasing the torque by in my case a factor of 2.

revs kill engines more than anything else. I just don't think beyond 7k it is worth it.

Have to admit on a burn with moray and aly this evening, I di hit was registered as 8k rpm, but that makes little sense to me as the engine redlines at 7500. It can't have been momentum of the needle because it is stepper motor controlled.

Very odd.

Did feel very very strong though.

Seems to be freer revving with more weight in the car, and between us we must have counted for well over 0.25 tonnes! Still shifted though

I wonder if my PAR gearset will hold out?

 

Good to hear you are getting it wound up Adam It would be such a waste to just tickle it to 5k.
Anyone taking bets as to how long it takes to feel slow and Adam is looking at nos kits or bigger turbos

Andy

 

just remove the Pectel's 'Pat module', for more speed maybe the 'Moray module' too if you are really pushed!

 

actually, right now, i am considering fitting a smaller turbo to see what I think, because the top end power is a little wasted on me.

You have a 30r right? At some point in the future, if you feel like a temporary swap to test the water, let me know.

Think for the use it gets with me, I would be better off with an earlier spooling turbo.

Don't need to cry out for more equipment before I run proper boost on this one.

Would also be interested to see what power it is making.

 

I recently mentioned this to someone else who thought his 35R was maybe a bit too big for the Southern roads.
I would like to try a temporary swap sometime Adam, I think the 35R may be better for my high rpm stuff on the 1/4m and probably suit our road/traffic conditions up here a bit better
I find my 30R on the 2.33 spools better than a td05 on a 2.0, ie better than your original 2.0 sti engine you had fitted.
I agree you should get a RR print from it as it is now though. I would recommend G force or a DasTek rolling road as both have excellent repeatability and simulate road type acceleration better than some others.
This will give a better measure of how the car will perform on the road during lower gear acceleration.

Andy

 

will give it a go, but will be trying PE first as pat knows them well and will use the time on their rollers to check the map at upwards of the current 1.5 bar!

paul, good point re the moray module, not so sure about the pat one though!

 

must admit though, the 35r doesnt feel lacking at any point.

Off boost response from engine is incredible and on boost you well know!

I know I have said it before, but it really does feel like a UK car just with a load more if you keep your foot down.

 

Adam, i agree about the revs killing the engines. I just dont rev it that high to be honest. The car is a daily driver and to be honest, normall i just go to work as normal, and go home. I hardly ever let it get warm as only takes about 10-15mins to get to work!

Only real time to have a play is at the weekend and to be honest thats not much.

But i wouldnt mind going up to around 8k for 1/4 mile and bit of fun on track next year

Andys spool up time is absolutely cracking and will deffo speaking to him soon