got it here Andrew if you dont mind me sending it now?

 

Carl,
yh (andrew's) m

 

Hey Andrew, yeah it's your drawing (i knew it was either yours or Andy/Rorus drawing). Should i just post it up to save the myriad of emails? Got your email btw Andy/Peanuts (isn't this confusing?), the second drawing is giving me naughty ideas...

My accidental ScoobyNet Tsunami Auction purchase...





I can actually see why SdB got quite excited about it, it is rather nice. Only problem is i don't need it. Anyone want to swap it for a new Dyson? Seriously.

While i was waiting for Mum to finish work today i wandered into B&Q. It isn't sticky-backed but for £6 cable ties will do.



Floyd, an interesting question and one i will try and figure out in a minute.

 

Ok, i've split this up into categories and stages, it's all pretty self explanatory. I haven't included things i've bought, decided not use and then lost money on (i.e. ported OE headers, the Lascar CT gauge etc). It also doesn't inlude mods that were in place beforehand which is basically just the H&S de-cat, Knock and Lambda Link. I also haven't included the cost of the RR runs nor the cost of the aluminium i made the injector adaptors, tilt kit and (will) make the filter shield out of.


Monitoring

• £460 - Defis (Boost/Oil/Fuel Pressure, Control Unit II + JW Racing Pod)
• £53.50 - Nomad Racing Charge Temp Gauge

Total - £513.50


Performance (Stage 1)

• £500 - Apexi PFC + Commander
• £300 - Fitting/Mapping Apexi PFC (inc. travelling costs)
• £250 - FETD05
• £185 - Walbro 255l/hr + FSE Reg
• £70 - Phase 2 440's
• £168.15 - STi V5/6 TMIC
• £30 - MY98 STi 5/6 TMIC Dump Valve Adaptor
• £63 - Samcos (inc. cost of new s/s jubilee clips)
• £50 - K&N Induction
• £25 - Turbo/Intercooler gaskets
• £10 - Ducting for Filter & Hose for Boost Solenoid
• £0 - 3-Port Solenoid

Total - £1651.15


Performance (Stage 2)

• £0 - Apexi ACV-R
• £175.51 - Megan Racing Headers
• £68.95 - Cooltek Exhaust Wrap
• £7.14 - Agriemach Exhaust Paint
• £5 - Jubilees (to secure exhaust wrap)
• £70 - APS Induction Kit
• £36 - Zero Sports TMIC duct
• £35 - NGK PFR7B Plugs
• £21.97 - Turbo Gaskets
• £5.58 - Insulation
• £44 - 20 bottles Millers Octane Plus

Total - £469.15


Projected

• £50 - Remapping of Apexi PFC

So the total is going to be well in excess of £2000. If i get my way the spending isn't over either.

Had a friend of mine on the phone earlier on. He had his Evo 7 RR'd today at the same local Dastek RR that mine has previously been run on. He's added a Ralliart ECU, Blitz Boost Controller, ARP Con-Rod Bolts, H&S System and some induction and made 350bhp with 310lb/ft. And that's conservatively setup at 1.4bar. Total cost.....£1400.

 

I think the EVO is a better, more robust base to come from.
If I totaled up the spend on my Sti it would be about £3K, all in, AndyF and all.
(maybe) It gave 407 bhp, on a good day, cold and damp etc, but a good result, BUT, it was a 314 bhp engine to start with!

The interest/fun factor is there too, and is worth something in the whole equation.

I think the trick is to buy one done.

Just look at Tweenierobs 450x450 RA @ £9000!

Graham

 

Carl, good honest answer. I think that it's the little things that people forget from the total cost and many don't even record what they've spent for various reasons.

I have the exact same insulation from B&Q. Just got to watch the temps as it is only safe to 60C but should be good on induction pipes and air box shielding etc.

When your project is complete you could probably pick out the bits that count and total those but getting there takes experimentation not to mention changes in direction. So frequently the cost of projects is quite a bit higher than if we had hindsight

F

 

Anybody reading inspired by all this *****? Here's some bits which may help...

Octane Booster

Denso 550's

 

I don't suppose i could be mailed a copy of the shield for the hybrid fmic????

 

You'll need to allow us to see your email address then Chris. Drop a mail to carl@gc8.co.uk

 

YHM

 

so you went for a hybrid then did you chris?

david

 

Can I take a copy of the shield plans too - to compare to mine when I get it back ?

Ta,

Mark ( mark@wildsworld.co.uk )

 

If anyones interested i might make some more,

I was going to make a lid for it but decsided to follow the contours of the bonnet and use some boot gasket from a breakers to seal and stop hot air seaping into the enclosure when the car is stationary, then by putting some holes in the off side vent cover using a 50mm hole cutter to supply cold air.


A.

 

I'm first in the dress making pattern queue sunshine

 

Andrew, if you want me to take this down just say so.

 

Cheers Carl

Now where's my sewing machine.

Brings make memories of the 70s and my mother making some luvely clothes.


Scared for life

 

Carl - Package is in the post

 

Nice one mate, cheers.

 

So decided this morning that the car gets priority this week... First thing up was to lose the carbon/charcoal cannister thing.



All pipes tee'd together and reduced where necessary. It's great having a garage full of 80's Ford parts...



Tucked away and routed to the chassis rail.



So with the coolant pipes bent down the side of the engine a nice clear run for the filter shield is left.



A pretty picture but bloody freezing...



I could lie and say i did this myself but the truth is the old man did most of it for me - i couldn't get him away from it. A notch had to be cut in the rear of the shield just so we could get it in the engine bay. Then another to clear the slam panel.



After lots of trial fitting, cutting, trial fitting and cutting we were left with something that fitted nicely. The K&N Induction really couldn't have landed in a worse position - the end of the MAF goes through the shield at an angle!





A crudely insulated MAF.



Back together for a test run.



No knocking or anything suspect after a wee drive but the filter did need to be tweaked round slightly. This is just something that i'll have to keep an eye on.

With the vent removed i snapped a few pictures to show the bonnet/shield clearance to the rear... (nice)



..and to the front. (not quite as nice)



Filter lands nicely under the vent although i'm concerned that more heat will be trapped on the other side of the shield as there is less of a 'chimney' for it to rise through. I suppose it's better the filter gets the cold air.

 

Looks great Carl, 'the ole man' is good with the tin-snips!
911

 

Die grinder you mean. Hoping to put it to work again tomorrow on the headers. Want to get them ready asap so i can get them fitted when we get a break in the weather.

Any tips for wrapping them? I was going to chuck the wrap in a bucket of warm water before starting and have jubille clips to hand to secure it.

 

Don't soak the wrap, just wet it to soften it. I tend to wear a pair of nitrile rubber gloves when working with the stuff and pull the wrap between my thumb and index finger of one hand with them slightly immersed in warm water. That way I don't get the wrap completely sodden, just soaked enough to be very flexible and yet dry quickly

 

Looks good, interesting where it lands at the back, mine was bent in to touch the strut tower.

A perfect fit and seal isn't required (or rather isn't worth the effort involved) when I was playing about with different options a simple shield was 95% as effective as far more complex arrangements.

This shows the rear of mine,


Andrew...

 

Carl is using the same wrap I used recently to re-wrap my headers (Cooltek). The quality is nothing like as good as the wrap I used originally. I think that came from Rally Design, but couldn't remember when I needed to

the Cooltek stuff is so soft & flexible, I applied it dry. Don't think it'll last as well as the original which still looks as good as the day it went onto the down pipe. We live and learn :0

 

I did all my wrapping dry. First lot was quite in flexible, but soon eased off.
Gloves essential or you be scratching all year long

Wrap was sprayed and sprayed in HT paint, and nearly killed me when i started the engine after.
It has finally stopped smoking on warm-up but still smells...

I think the RR blasts cured the paint at last...

Graham.

 

Ahh, I've always used the Thermo-inc Cool It wrap, which is very stiff until wet...mind you it's lasted very well!

 

Yeah, i've had a feel of the Cooltek and it is very soft. Kind of regret buying it tbh (the 3mm stuff from Think Auto was only pennies dearer) but we live and learn. Will have a bottle of water on stand by ready to spray on if necessary.

Andrew, my alarm siren prevents the shield being bent back in on itself. I think my shield sits alot further forward than yours. When i have the car in bits i'll see about relocating the siren and tidying up the shield a little. It obstructs the path of the throttle cable a little also which i'm not delighted about. Due to how the MAF sits in relation to the shield i want to add a thick seal to the cut-out, if i have enough left over i may do the top too.

 

Headers wrapped today. I actually found it quite therapeutic once i got into it... bit of a pest pulling 29.5 metres of wrap through a tiny gap in the pipes though.

Virgin headers.



Bosses blanked.



Great hangover cure!



Annoying that the pipes 1 + 3 are too close to allow #1 to be wrapped completely on its own. Had to lay one loop round both pipes. But all wrapped up, now time to get jiggy with the locking wire.



Quick lesson from the old boy and for a first attempt i don't think i did too bad. Masked off ready for paint too.



The flash from the camera makes it hard to see the paint but trust me, i emptied the whole tin on them.



I don't know if anyone is reading this and is thinking of having a go at wrapping for the first time but i feel it's worth while pointing out this stuff is positively horrible to work with. To actually apply to the pipework the Cooltek wrap is soft and easy to work but the amount of nasty fibres that become airborne is scary. Good ventilation and dust mask is 100% necessary.

 

Looking good Carl

Regarding wrapping 2 pipes together it's not a problem, may even be a better option as air is a better insulator than the wrap anyway ! (as long as its stationary air)

Andy

 

How much wrapping did you end up using in total