Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

cannot view pictures from work..

on mine there was three pipes at the top.. trace them, one went to the air filter and the other too under the manifold.. T the two under the manifold.. keeping the one way valve in place.

markwild

Kevin - The left one on your picture T's off - one side to inlet and one to map sensor pipework . The other two go under the manifold, via the emissions control system.

I've joined all 3 together and joined them with the 4th one, which is under the canister and is an air intake feed, when the emissions control solenoid purges the system.

I WILL be posting a diagram on this thread in the next day or so, showing where all the pipes are on my car (I have a couple of 'extras'...) - which I'm hoping can be labelled up and then appropriate modifications shown.....

Hope this does / will help,

Mark

markwild

I've posted the diagrams on 22b, due to the *cough* problems on SN....

here

Mark

dogpole

i finally got round to junking mine last night, it was an easy enough job. i tee'd all 3 of my pipes, wasn't sure which ones i could block off.
i might spend a bit more time in daylight routing them a bit better.

before


after






DP

markwild

Thats fine matey - Mine were the same till I de'hosed !

Mark

axgt_bwaii

iTrader: (6)

i have only two hoses going into the top of mine (93 wrx) can anyone post up a pic or tell me what im do do with the hoses? do i just t the two together and have them vta?

stew

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

No one has considered just to block them off? No T's necessary with this method. I always seem to have a slight vacuum in my fuel tank so what would be the problem with too much pressure in the tank?

F

Scoob+Bike=Fun

if you have vacuum in the tank, is that not bad and could cause fuel starvation?, would have thought that the pressure in the tank should be atmospheric? and if it's pressurised, would that not harm the fuel pump and stop return line functioning correctly?

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

I think that fuel being taken from the tank is obviously much more than the return, which causes a negative pressure there. Most cars I've owned have done the sucky noise when you remove the fuel cap to re fuel. The scoob has a pressure relief vavle in the fuel cap to overcome a large negative pressure IIRC. Some have drilled the caps as you say but this could let fuel vapour escape. In my garage that would be bad as I get a lot of static as I exit my car past the cap

The same problem could occur if the vent lines were T'd and dumped to the chassis rail. Fuel vapour will be vented to the engine bay - one spark in the wrong place and woosh! Just a thought!

F

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

BTTT for more thoughts on this!

F

O1e

Hi!

Instead of starting a new tread, I hope it is fine to ask here?

Removed my canister today, because of snapping one of the plastic inlet on the Purge Valve when removing my IACV.

Have read about what I should do to remove it, but I still have some questions.

- I have to leave the connector to the Purge valve to not getting CEL's.
- I have blocket one of the hoses that before where going to the Purge Valve, that is connected to the inlet manifold.

But what should I do with the two hoses that are connected to the canister? Some say that I just can remove one of the hoses, then use the other hose to bring back where the other hose where attached?

Like this:



Could I do it like this? Or do I have to use a T-piece? The canister did not have a hose at the bottom, so if I use a T-piece I will need to place a new hose there.

And what should I do with the second hose that goes to the Purge Valve?

This one: (you could see it has snapped of)



The other one, was as I told earlier blocket of as it goes to the inlet manifold.

Hope you have time to answer me. And sorry for those bad mobile pics.

Thanks!

markwild

Hopefully I can advise...

Effectively, you're wanting to remove the purge valve and the canister. The two pipes on the canister go to the fuel system - I vented them to air by using a 3way t-piece (one leg to each pipe, one to air), but floyd just connected them, so I suspect either is OK.

Any pipe from the purge valve to the canister can simply be discarded. However, any pipes leading to the inlet system must be blocked - that it, you should not allow the inlet system to connect to atmosphere anywhere except via the inlet pipe - otherwise air will enter the system that has not been measured by the MAF system.

hope this helps - I can't take any photos as the car went years ago....

Mark

O1e

Thanks alot for your reply!

I had two pipes at the top of the canister, and nothing at the bottom of it. It should be a pipe here, but It is not.

But I just place the two pipes at the top of the canister in a t-piece, then make a pipe that goes under the car since there not where any connected to the bottom of the canister now? But do I need the valves that are mounted on the pipes then, or could I remove them also?

And that I am wondering most about is where does the pipe that snapped of the Purge Valve go? It goes to a metalpipe under the inlet manifold. It is hard to see/follow the metal pipes. I tought it was going to the canister? If you say that both of the pipes on the canister is from the fuel system. Do I need to block of both the pipes that goes to the Purge Valve?

Thanks alot again

Ole

markwild

For the canister pipes, I think I just joined the pipes - the valves are probably one-way types - but I can't say for sure. The new-age car canister system may be slightly different than the classic, as I'm sure there's an additional carbon filter under the car at the rear that is probably connected into the fueling breather system on the newer cars (IIRC) (I'm assuming that you have a new-age car from your avatar picture - and this post was by 'classic' owners I think at the time)

I'd block off the pipes going to the purge valve. If it is going to the inlet manifold, you don't want it venting to atmospere without the purge valve controlling it.

Mark