removal of carbon canister
 

Any advantage to this, except the gaining of some space (and possible airflow from back of radiator / FMIC) ?

I'm considering it, to make the creation/fitting of a cold air box around the induction kit easier ....

Ta,

Mark

removed mine..

unplugged it and blocked the pipe that goes to the inlet..

That left me with two pipes, one is a vent from the tank and one a vent from the manifold area.. T'd them together and vented them into the chassis rail where the canister did.

No problems.. other have drilled the petrol filler cap to allow air in and blocked the vent pipes but I have not needed to.

Mark: Throw the canister away and put in a T-Piece in its place, leaving the existing pipework and non return valve etc.
Massive weight saving. ;)

well reminded Harvey.. I retained the non-return valve also..

Nice stroke of luck this thread. Was wondering the same myself as I have a power steering reservoire to re-locate to that position.

PS Hi Harvey FMIC's still going strong. Fit & forget :)

Gerry

What is the advantage to removing this or what is it meant to do anyway?
Has anybody got a pic of it, i think i know the part your describing?

Thanks,

:)

weight and space...

Ah Houghton, bought a certain alloy manufacturers re-location kit??? (I was the the prototype/idea behind this if you have!) :D

Had no probs at all with doing this mod.

No! Second hand from Scoty,:D Subaru manufacture, I'm told :)

I'm not proud:D

Ok bud. Worthwhile mod IMHO if you wanna run larger Inlet pipe to turbo.
I know Harvey did the same with his wagon, used the STI7 plastic tank in that location.

now you are talking about power steering res relocation.. just to confuse everyone?

Yeah, but you need to junk the Carbon cannister to free up the room to do it JGM ;) LOL

Still thread related.....sort of!

Sorry- You've failed miserably to confuse me... Is the power steering res. relocation necessary for a larger intake pipe (e.g. the MRT one ?)

Mark

Not necessary, but if you make up a custom one for peanuts (around £50) as opposed to £200 odd for Samco/MRT etc replacement, then it gives you more room to play with, and stops the pipe being 'Squashed' on MY98-00 versions




PIC FOR EXAMPLE

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...filterarea.jpg

wasn't complaining just thought it needed pointing out else someone might get confused.

:confused:




;) not T'd mine off yet, it's just dangling there lol

Well, Inlet is on my 'to do soonish' list, so Carbon Canister Goodbyes are on the horizon.... I'll do a search on the Power Steering Res. (Esp. as mines a 98),

Thanks,

Mark

My fault I'm afraid :) just commenting that this is a useful thread. Now having spent £200 on a Samco inlet, Pickle says it can be done for £50 :rolleyes:

Any details pickle of the parts required ?

As we've turned this into a 'how to fit a better inlet pipe' thread... (I Don't mind - its answered my original question.....) - Would a new map be advisable if the inlet pipe is altered, given the new flow speed/volume etc ?

Ta,

Mark -

Right, Sorry if this has taken this thread off topic but I will answer the Ques asked!.

I bought a 90' bend piece of Samco (these can be had in one size, or reducing in size) cut a little off the end. Attatched to the turbo inlet, then attatched the alloy pipe I had made to flow under the Inlet manifold, then attatched the rest of the 90' bend Samco to the other end! Job done. Don't have details of the Alloy pipe as mine was a prototype made up by SPEC-R, although I know it was 63mm diammeter. They have the dimensions, and can make these up if you wish using my example. Samco can be had for around £20-25.

PS. I had to remove the Inlet manifold to fit this, but I had to remove it for other reasons anyway, and I think you still need to for some of the other applications too!. Also, the breather return 'T's, and Re-circ D/V return need to be taken into consideration, but vented mine to catch tank anyway!.

Removed canister earlier from MY97 JDM. Ten minute job if you have the tee to hand.

2 pipes on top of canister one below. remove top pipes (one retained with spring clip), canister pulls straight up from bracket, freeing lower pipe.

Pipes are different sizes, top ones are 6mm and 8mm bore, lower one is 8mm bore. I had a 'long legged' unequal tee which just reached them all. You may have to extend the lower pipe to reach the other two. A 6mm equal tee could be used with clips on the two larger pipes.

Hope this helps.

Gerry

so that basically leaves the pipework doing its original job, but without the canister....(might have to ditch one of the pipes... see next para)

Inlet Pipe - I've already done breathers and FMIC, so DV is off that - BUT, there are other pipes.. One from Canister pipework.. another to the bypass system (tickover control) - and a small 'boost' type pipe (I need to track this back - too dark now !)

I'll take a proper look at the weekend -

Ta,

Mark

hmm - I've removed mine tonight, by joining up the hoses.. BUT, it has 4 connections....

3 on top - 1 below

I'm sure the bottom one is the feed off - which goes into the chassis (by the wing)

The top three are as follows:

1 tees off the 'inlet manifold->MAP sensor' pipe
the other 2 appear to come from under the inlet manifold - maybe from the fuel system ? (One of these appears to have a valve in line and has hose clips on).

The pipe from the MAP sensor actually tees just before the canister and feeds (via a plastic disc device - maybe a one way valve ?) to the inlet hose, just after the MAF..

Ideally I'd like to tidy all this hosework up - so I'm trying to find out what it all is (!)

Anyhow - that's another post....

Mine has 3 pipes on the top of the canister as well.

Any light shed on what to do with the three pipes would be grateful. For now i have tee'd together the two larger pipes (on top of the canister) and put the tee to the pipe in the chassis leg. There is still a connection to the intake elbow. The remaining small pipe i have plugged.

Is this correct???

Cheers



Iain

Just found a document that shows the emissions control system and the canister connections and function. If you PM your e-mails, I'll send to anyone interested.

Gerry

remove the one from the map sensor connection.. it is just taking air into the valve.. hence the one way valve.. remove and block off the pipe or replace the T connector with a straight connector.

You then have one from the tank vent and one from the manifold.. not sure which is which.. keep the one way valve on the one that has it.. job done..

before i do this, could someone please mod this pic to clarify which pipes to 'T' and or block ?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/09...ton/CARBON.jpg

Thanks
:)

anyone ?

:)

Sorry, mines different with 2 pipes at the top. Teed all mine together and so far no problem. Not removed or blocked any as I can't see where they go to.