Free Mod!
23 August 2004, 04:07 PM
#31
APS front mount? These are rather large. What sort of power you running (or planning too?) I'm aiming for around 330bhp on a topmount. You dont want to get an I/C that exceeds your needs.
Have a nosey around the engine bay re induction....may be very easy to get some samco and extend the induction into the wing.
Bob
Have a nosey around the engine bay re induction....may be very easy to get some samco and extend the induction into the wing.
Bob
23 August 2004, 04:15 PM
#32
Originally Posted by Floyd
BOB
So you tested this mod on the ‘G-Tech’ meter? How do I know that you didn’t test the car at lunchtime before the mod and then retest in the evening after you mods? Or indeed on different days – with different ambient temperatures??? You did measure the temps didn’t you??? Was it the same road?? Same batch of fuel?? I suspect it would be very hard to get accurate test results on the road for comparative tests do to the many variables involved.
So now you want to do before and after tests on a RR? With the bonnet up or down? Mod first or second? You really want to spend £50 – £ 60 to prove a point? To gain a few horse power? I’d bet that most of any gain could be attributed to de-restricting the flow by removal of the resonator, rather than the extra cold dense air.
I’m not dismissing you mod but the way you presented it. I agree with some of the theory but I disliked the approach in the way you shared of the information IMHO.
F
PS If you remove the undertray, remember to remove the gear box cover or air speed will do it for you. Oh and this will also cost you in economy and top speed - a lot in some cases.
If you add a small scoop make sure you don't create a chimney effect when at a standstill or the temps in this area will soar.
IMO only remove the leading edge rubber in summer as it'll not be needed in winter.
So you tested this mod on the ‘G-Tech’ meter? How do I know that you didn’t test the car at lunchtime before the mod and then retest in the evening after you mods? Or indeed on different days – with different ambient temperatures??? You did measure the temps didn’t you??? Was it the same road?? Same batch of fuel?? I suspect it would be very hard to get accurate test results on the road for comparative tests do to the many variables involved.
So now you want to do before and after tests on a RR? With the bonnet up or down? Mod first or second? You really want to spend £50 – £ 60 to prove a point? To gain a few horse power? I’d bet that most of any gain could be attributed to de-restricting the flow by removal of the resonator, rather than the extra cold dense air.
I’m not dismissing you mod but the way you presented it. I agree with some of the theory but I disliked the approach in the way you shared of the information IMHO.
F
PS If you remove the undertray, remember to remove the gear box cover or air speed will do it for you. Oh and this will also cost you in economy and top speed - a lot in some cases.
If you add a small scoop make sure you don't create a chimney effect when at a standstill or the temps in this area will soar.
IMO only remove the leading edge rubber in summer as it'll not be needed in winter.
I regularly use the g-tech at night on the exact same stretch of road. Always on optimax. Never been able to get the trap speed over 100/101mph but managed a consistant 104/105/106 after the mod. No other changes to car.
The holes on the airbox arent all round so is protected from pulling in too much negative air.
I wasnt looking at spending £50 odd on proving it but making some money whilst proving it
Bob
20 September 2004, 01:19 PM
#35
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Essex
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by BOB'5
Anybody else had a go at this?
Bob
Bob
Ive done the resonator removal mod...
I was running a ITG and had good results on the rollers..
Basically car is a PPP MY03 with rear center exhaust section changed to remove resonator, Inlet resonator removed and ITG Panel Filter
Got 318 BHP and 310 FT lb at G force earllier this year.
Was told boost is a bit all over the shot, so need Remap really but its not really spiking too much to worry about
I have now changed to standard filter at the moment coz of the gunk the ITG spits out!
I know I have no benchmark due to decat and other mods but still its up a few bhp on standard PPP... so someting good must of come out of it!
Im looking to getting a STI panel filter.... Will install that then block off the open to engine bay areas around the inlet box... When i get the time!
Oh I did run a Pipercross Induction kit for a few weeks, just found the inlet temperature FAR too high with it sitting in the engine bay....
02 January 2006, 01:06 PM
#36
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
this is an excellent thread,all but the arguing,
I would like to do the free air box mod but i need to know wether im going to run in to problems with intake temps getting to high or anything else for that matter.
So basicly we are saying that,with a standard system the air is drawn from inside the wing.But goes from low down in the wing passes up to the resonator box and round through to the air filter an onwards?
When removal of the resonator box is done you will still have the air filterbox pointing in to the inner wing correct but with a gaping hole and no ducting thus making air filter get very mucky very quickly ??
Some people are saying by removing the resonator box you are removing a restriction thus making the MAF read eraticaly is this the case and i guesse a re-map would cure this?
Sorry to drag the past up :-)
I would like to do the free air box mod but i need to know wether im going to run in to problems with intake temps getting to high or anything else for that matter.
So basicly we are saying that,with a standard system the air is drawn from inside the wing.But goes from low down in the wing passes up to the resonator box and round through to the air filter an onwards?
When removal of the resonator box is done you will still have the air filterbox pointing in to the inner wing correct but with a gaping hole and no ducting thus making air filter get very mucky very quickly ??
Some people are saying by removing the resonator box you are removing a restriction thus making the MAF read eraticaly is this the case and i guesse a re-map would cure this?
Sorry to drag the past up :-)
Last edited by justanotherperson; 02 January 2006 at 01:25 PM.
02 January 2006, 01:27 PM
#37
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: 32 cylinders and many cats
Posts: 18,658
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I think it is like the picture, but this is a new age car. I think the resonator is T'd off the inlet tract rather than a flow through system? New age induction is pretty good I believe.
02 January 2006, 01:37 PM
#38
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by john banks
I think it is like the picture, but this is a new age car. I think the resonator is T'd off the inlet tract rather than a flow through system? New age induction is pretty good I believe.
cheers
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
12
18 November 2015 07:03 AM
Sam Witwicky
Engine Management and ECU Remapping
17
13 November 2015 10:49 AM