GC8 Twin scroll
Scooby Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 15,239
Likes: 1
From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
FCK off.. 
Im making some rather major changes at the moment, so would make sense to make some more at the same time
Might paint it yellow whilst Im at it
Simon, any chance of a copy of the PDF's?
Wonder if I can drive the display pack and heaters.. with a 94 loom
rumour has it that defi make the displays.. wonder if its the same protocol?
David

Im making some rather major changes at the moment, so would make sense to make some more at the same time

Might paint it yellow whilst Im at it

Simon, any chance of a copy of the PDF's?
Wonder if I can drive the display pack and heaters.. with a 94 loom

rumour has it that defi make the displays.. wonder if its the same protocol?
David
"What is a PDF?": http://www.google.com/search?q=define
df+(portable+document+format))
...don't worry about the smiley in the hyperlink, it still works!
df+(portable+document+format))...don't worry about the smiley in the hyperlink, it still works!
See.. Thats what ScoobyNet is all about, helpfull information!
Well tonights job's went ok, got the 03/04MY door closure sensors in (they have changed the shape so you have to file the hole from round to square...) and got the steering out again, need to pull the 03/04MY steering wheel to fit my 92MY one and change the ignition locks over.
Have also been "mocking-up" the FMIC, rad and condenser locations with polystyrene, little white globules everywhere, the neighbours are convinced i'm nuts
Cheers
Simon
Well tonights job's went ok, got the 03/04MY door closure sensors in (they have changed the shape so you have to file the hole from round to square...) and got the steering out again, need to pull the 03/04MY steering wheel to fit my 92MY one and change the ignition locks over.
Have also been "mocking-up" the FMIC, rad and condenser locations with polystyrene, little white globules everywhere, the neighbours are convinced i'm nuts

Cheers
Simon
Last edited by Simon Lines; Mar 30, 2004 at 07:27 PM.
Simon, would you happen to have or have access to an intact (engine bits only) loom off a MY92-94 JDM WRX?
I've been looking for one quite some time now, need it for my MY92 BC5 atmo as it's undergoing the turbo treatment! Have a early JDM WRX ECU and need matching harness.
Willing to pay good money.
If you can help me drop me a line per mail, cheers.
I've been looking for one quite some time now, need it for my MY92 BC5 atmo as it's undergoing the turbo treatment! Have a early JDM WRX ECU and need matching harness.
Willing to pay good money.
If you can help me drop me a line per mail, cheers.
Hi, yes, I can help with that, I have all the bits you would need, including several ECU's (and an Apexi with hand controller) mail me: -
slines@prodrive.com
Cheers
Simon
slines@prodrive.com
Cheers
Simon
Scooby Regular
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 6,005
Likes: 0
From: RIP Moneys Scoob 440bhp/470lbsft 31-07-08
Simon,
Thread is very interesting, good to see your giving it a go
Ive managed to fit a My98-00 dash into MY95 which looks 10 times better. Got some little things to tidy up but its basically there. Didnt think about trying the 03/04 dash - looks great. I think tweenierob sold a sti type r with a bugeye dash in but he said the wiring was easy cause it was a 97 or 98
Keep up with the good work and with the updates
10 second 1/4 mile - will this be using race fuel? Any signs of nitrous?
Thread is very interesting, good to see your giving it a go

Ive managed to fit a My98-00 dash into MY95 which looks 10 times better. Got some little things to tidy up but its basically there. Didnt think about trying the 03/04 dash - looks great. I think tweenierob sold a sti type r with a bugeye dash in but he said the wiring was easy cause it was a 97 or 98
Keep up with the good work and with the updates

10 second 1/4 mile - will this be using race fuel? Any signs of nitrous?
O well another night done…
Brake pads in, steering column in, fuel level senders wired up…
Got a new link to the pix as the other one kept falling over, use: -
http://www.kymphan.net/dan@prodrive/simon/
N2O and fuel is TBA, I’m open to either, in fact I drag raced a MK1 Golf for ages with two big DIY N2O kits on, ran in the 13’s so nothing earth shattering. Learnt a lot about N2O though
so it's certain to appear sooner or later...
Cheers
Simon
Brake pads in, steering column in, fuel level senders wired up…
Got a new link to the pix as the other one kept falling over, use: -
http://www.kymphan.net/dan@prodrive/simon/
N2O and fuel is TBA, I’m open to either, in fact I drag raced a MK1 Golf for ages with two big DIY N2O kits on, ran in the 13’s so nothing earth shattering. Learnt a lot about N2O though
so it's certain to appear sooner or later...Cheers
Simon
Last edited by Simon Lines; Mar 31, 2004 at 10:30 PM.
Simon,
It looks like the engine is new in a crate from Japan? How come the dash says 5k on it?
With the bigger intercooler r u gonna fit a bigger scoop. I can't see the classic scoop being able to utilise the bigger intecooler properly.
p.s. Did you burn your Spagetti? It's all over the floor and burnt
Damian.
It looks like the engine is new in a crate from Japan? How come the dash says 5k on it?
With the bigger intercooler r u gonna fit a bigger scoop. I can't see the classic scoop being able to utilise the bigger intecooler properly.
p.s. Did you burn your Spagetti? It's all over the floor and burnt

Damian.
Engine has 5k (k's) on it, the "crate" is my trailer!
it actually all came in a metal box with a spec C kit for another gentleman that some of you know...
TMIC is temporary so I won't be bothering to change the old scoop (as an aside, IF it's properly ducted (and that means in AND out) you only need 30 - 40% area as an intake size)
Electrical spaghetti - I can tell you, it's overrated!!!
Well my twin headlight conversion has turned up so I can get the intake done now, should have it back down on it's feet this weekend.
Cheers
Simon
it actually all came in a metal box with a spec C kit for another gentleman that some of you know...TMIC is temporary so I won't be bothering to change the old scoop (as an aside, IF it's properly ducted (and that means in AND out) you only need 30 - 40% area as an intake size)
Electrical spaghetti - I can tell you, it's overrated!!!
Well my twin headlight conversion has turned up so I can get the intake done now, should have it back down on it's feet this weekend.
Cheers
Simon
Last edited by Simon Lines; Apr 1, 2004 at 03:48 PM.
Hi David, I started my first modified car at 16 (a MK1 Scirocco) and though I only properly "joined" the industry 9 years ago I've been happily modd'ing away since then.
After I stopped being a plastering contractor (9 years ago) I firstly joined SPAX, then EGR, then Prodrive. While there are benefits to working here and modifying a Scooby they tend to be more information benefits rather than material benefits. The material benefits come from having been modifying since 16 and knowing all potential suppliers
Just for info, my modd'ing has been 100% VW water-cooled until I got a ST185 5 years ago, then the Scooby 3 years ago.
Cheers
Simon
After I stopped being a plastering contractor (9 years ago) I firstly joined SPAX, then EGR, then Prodrive. While there are benefits to working here and modifying a Scooby they tend to be more information benefits rather than material benefits. The material benefits come from having been modifying since 16 and knowing all potential suppliers
Just for info, my modd'ing has been 100% VW water-cooled until I got a ST185 5 years ago, then the Scooby 3 years ago.
Cheers
Simon
Scooby Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 15,239
Likes: 1
From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
it wasnt an interview question 
Having said that Im sure you get to have a look at the old group A cars..

Having said that Im sure you get to have a look at the old group A cars..
wanted to be sure to cover all the options, don't want people thinking I'm being naughty... Outside or inside...Yea, I can look at the cars
Took lights out tonight, put the twin headlight kit in tomorrow and start thinking about taking it for a little drive
Cheers
Simon
Last edited by Simon Lines; Apr 1, 2004 at 08:57 PM.
It actually all came in a metal box with a spec C kit for another gentleman that some of you know...
Simon, you say the nicest things
Actually, that's a piccy of the Spec C motor on the palette. You can see the oil cooler pipes at the front.

Now when those final clutch & brake bits turn up, we can do it all again. This time to a 2000MY Type R. Glad you're doing it all first though !
Cheers
Steve
P.S. Do drop down at the weekend to see the new gaff. I want to see your new motor !
Simon, you say the nicest things

Actually, that's a piccy of the Spec C motor on the palette. You can see the oil cooler pipes at the front.

Now when those final clutch & brake bits turn up, we can do it all again. This time to a 2000MY Type R. Glad you're doing it all first though !
Cheers
Steve
P.S. Do drop down at the weekend to see the new gaff. I want to see your new motor !
B*ll*x...Bloody (02MY) rad's got a pin-hole ('s?) in it!
And the rear tyres rub on the strut's
On the up-side, it does move under it's own power at last

And the twin headlight kit is fitted and working (minus one headlight) so I can properly sort the induction out now

Cheers
Simon
Last edited by Simon Lines; Apr 3, 2004 at 10:00 PM.
lmao @ "washers" god yes we've all been there!
OK, so there is enough "slop" in the rear up-right bolts to allow the tyre to clear the strut but it really needs smaller shank bolts or ovalised strut holes. Will have to do this to bring the rear camber down to sensible levels anyway (currently circa 3.5 deg, so good for circuit…) I may invest in some adjustable top mounts to bring the strut top out a bit too.
Rad seems to have some pin-holes but does not really “leak” unless I sit at idle for ages, driving along all is fine. “Driving along” Yes! Went for its first little drive today, only 5 miles but it’s a start
Cheers
Simon
OK, so there is enough "slop" in the rear up-right bolts to allow the tyre to clear the strut but it really needs smaller shank bolts or ovalised strut holes. Will have to do this to bring the rear camber down to sensible levels anyway (currently circa 3.5 deg, so good for circuit…) I may invest in some adjustable top mounts to bring the strut top out a bit too.
Rad seems to have some pin-holes but does not really “leak” unless I sit at idle for ages, driving along all is fine. “Driving along” Yes! Went for its first little drive today, only 5 miles but it’s a start
Cheers
Simon


