Groupbuy for US STi short engine
2nd and final Groupbuy will close on the 22nd May. Anybody interested needs to request a "booking" form before this date.
Price and order detail are same as before, any queries e-mail me at mark.atkinson66@btinternet.com
Mark A
Price and order detail are same as before, any queries e-mail me at mark.atkinson66@btinternet.com
Mark A
Scooby Regular
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 5,275
Likes: 0
From: Where age and treachery reins over youthful exuberance
Mark has just delivered mine
Top job, mate. Very many thanks.
I've not written many cheques for over a grand to total strangers before. You meet some great people on ScoobyNet.
Richard.
Top job, mate. Very many thanks. I've not written many cheques for over a grand to total strangers before. You meet some great people on ScoobyNet.
Richard.
Mark A,
When you wrote 'final Groupbuy' did you really mean it? I've recently purchased a Legacy GTB (2L twin turbo EJ20) and just read through this thread. The GTB is a bit weak in the torque department so a 2.5 would help it shift a bit better. Have you got any 2.5's remaining from people who have changed their minds or how about doing one final group buy?
Cheers.
When you wrote 'final Groupbuy' did you really mean it? I've recently purchased a Legacy GTB (2L twin turbo EJ20) and just read through this thread. The GTB is a bit weak in the torque department so a 2.5 would help it shift a bit better. Have you got any 2.5's remaining from people who have changed their minds or how about doing one final group buy?
Cheers.
I'm certainly prepared to wait for one but is there one available? According to Mark's last message on May 10th, the 2nd groupbuy closed on the 22nd so it seems that I may have missed the boat.
Have I?
Have I?
I'm ordering the engines tomorrow, so if your still interested let me know
Use email above
Thanks to all the GB'ers I've seen over the last two days, its very interesting and informative. It would be useful to kep in contact and share ideas around 2.5 spec. 1250 miles in two days, Iwon't be doing that again. Thank John Banks for not making me travel even further.
Hats off to
R.Hopkins- enjoyed looking around EMAP
Carman- Thanks for the bits
Dale- awesome spec-c (wish I had the money for one)
Jeffrey brothers- more impreza's than you could shake a stick at.
Mark A
Use email above
Thanks to all the GB'ers I've seen over the last two days, its very interesting and informative. It would be useful to kep in contact and share ideas around 2.5 spec. 1250 miles in two days, Iwon't be doing that again. Thank John Banks for not making me travel even further.
Hats off to
R.Hopkins- enjoyed looking around EMAP
Carman- Thanks for the bits
Dale- awesome spec-c (wish I had the money for one)
Jeffrey brothers- more impreza's than you could shake a stick at.
Mark A
Scooby Regular
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 5,275
Likes: 0
From: Where age and treachery reins over youthful exuberance
Cheers, Mark. You're very welcome. It was good to meet you, too. Shame you didn't have more time. Which bit of Emap did you enjoy most? Was it Emma, Alex and Nikki in the lift, or Vicky on Max Power?
Yes, I'd like to keep in touch with other peeps in this Group Buy. To start the ball rolling, here's what I'll be doing (unless someone has a better plan). To keep costs vaguely affordable, I'll be spreading the build across two phases, this year and next. Car is a UK00 Classic.
Phase One:
2.5 block
TD05/06-20G turbo (with the future in mind)
550 injectors (from Scoobymania - I'm told they are better on idle/slow running)
Uprated fuel pump
AP clutch
Retain big TMIC with water-spray (bought 2nd-hand - HKS?)
STi panel filter
Re-fit stock ported headers (I want my burble back
)
Retain Scoobysport 2.5in decat exhaust
EcuTek3 remap (holding the turbo down to a gearbox-friendly max 320lbs/ft torque)
Retain Dawes MBC for further boost control (eg engine safety on track days etc)
Phase Two:
6-speed gearbox (cheapest, and proven strong)
FMIC (probably HKS or APS, which perform well, retain air-con and don't need too much bumper cutting)
Gruppe-S headers - coated - with flexi up-pipe
Consider K&N induction kit
Consider 3" decat exhaust
EcuTek3 remap to around 400bhp/370LbsFt
Phase One won't give me much more power (I'm around 300bhp now) but should be very relaxed with slugs of low torque. Lovely.
Phase Two is costly with the new gearbox and front-mount IC but there appears to be no way around this. Winding the turbo up to full potential will make the car unbelievably quick but I shall choose daily driveability over power. 400bhp in a Classic is around 320bhp per ton which compares nicely to a 911 Turbo with its feeble 276bhp per ton
Richard.
Yes, I'd like to keep in touch with other peeps in this Group Buy. To start the ball rolling, here's what I'll be doing (unless someone has a better plan). To keep costs vaguely affordable, I'll be spreading the build across two phases, this year and next. Car is a UK00 Classic.
Phase One:
2.5 block
TD05/06-20G turbo (with the future in mind)
550 injectors (from Scoobymania - I'm told they are better on idle/slow running)
Uprated fuel pump
AP clutch
Retain big TMIC with water-spray (bought 2nd-hand - HKS?)
STi panel filter
Re-fit stock ported headers (I want my burble back
)Retain Scoobysport 2.5in decat exhaust
EcuTek3 remap (holding the turbo down to a gearbox-friendly max 320lbs/ft torque)
Retain Dawes MBC for further boost control (eg engine safety on track days etc)
Phase Two:
6-speed gearbox (cheapest, and proven strong)
FMIC (probably HKS or APS, which perform well, retain air-con and don't need too much bumper cutting)
Gruppe-S headers - coated - with flexi up-pipe
Consider K&N induction kit
Consider 3" decat exhaust
EcuTek3 remap to around 400bhp/370LbsFt
Phase One won't give me much more power (I'm around 300bhp now) but should be very relaxed with slugs of low torque. Lovely.
Phase Two is costly with the new gearbox and front-mount IC but there appears to be no way around this. Winding the turbo up to full potential will make the car unbelievably quick but I shall choose daily driveability over power. 400bhp in a Classic is around 320bhp per ton which compares nicely to a 911 Turbo with its feeble 276bhp per ton
Richard.
Interesting spec Richard pretty similar to my wish list.
Would nice for one of the regulars to comment on the spec, the ones with experience of the US STi 2.5..... cough.. cough...
Seen on an American website a good price for forged pistons and rods.. anybody for a groupbuy ?
Mark A
Would nice for one of the regulars to comment on the spec, the ones with experience of the US STi 2.5..... cough.. cough...
Seen on an American website a good price for forged pistons and rods.. anybody for a groupbuy ?
Mark A
Thanks Mark, sorry I couldn't meet you in person when you delivered, hope my Dad isn't too bewildered by a Scooby engine in his garage 
CP pistons and Pauter rods from Axis or Crawford would be nice!

CP pistons and Pauter rods from Axis or Crawford would be nice!
Mark,
Thanks very much for the delivery of the engine, looking to fit it very shortly.
We are looking to fit these as a way of repair for poor STI owners who have had thiers blow up! Which means focus on reliability and an increase in torque which won't break the box.
Most of the people who bought seam to be going for max BHP, not quite sure of the set up as a straight swop, proably visit Powerstation as they seam to have the most knowledge.
Lee Jeffery.
Thanks very much for the delivery of the engine, looking to fit it very shortly.
We are looking to fit these as a way of repair for poor STI owners who have had thiers blow up! Which means focus on reliability and an increase in torque which won't break the box.
Most of the people who bought seam to be going for max BHP, not quite sure of the set up as a straight swop, proably visit Powerstation as they seam to have the most knowledge.
Lee Jeffery.
John i should be ordering a few things from Axis in the next couple of weeks. I'm sure i could get some discount on it all if you wanted your rods and pistons.
I can't promise anything but i can try. let me know if your interested. I know there is a 3-4 week dely on pauter rods from Axis.
I can't promise anything but i can try. let me know if your interested. I know there is a 3-4 week dely on pauter rods from Axis.
Lee
It's a shame I was in a rush would have liked to chat some more, let me knoe how you get on.
John, I'd spoken with Ron previously at Axis re internals for US STi engines and a couple of the GB'ers had asked about pistons and rods, might enquire again.
Mark
It's a shame I was in a rush would have liked to chat some more, let me knoe how you get on.
John, I'd spoken with Ron previously at Axis re internals for US STi engines and a couple of the GB'ers had asked about pistons and rods, might enquire again.
Mark
Sorry not yet. I'm pretty sure i could get a good price as i will be purchasing there stage 4 short motor & maybe some valvetrain.
Normally get an e-mail within a day from Ron.
Normally get an e-mail within a day from Ron.
Sorry I've been away from the site lately, but you guys keep blowing up those engines and someone has to build you new ones.....
I can do a pretty good deal on a GB for CP pistons. They are now starting to do the stock style dish and cr, so if that's what you want, I can get them easily now.
You would probably be looking at about $400-425 per set without rings and around $500-525 with factory rings. The pistons I normally stock are wrx style dish and 8.5:1 cr.
If there are more than 10 sets, I can probably do even better. I would have to talk to CP first though.
On to rods. I have not been able to get Pauter rods for quite some time now. Either they are EXTREMELY backed up, or don't like the way I look or something.
I have started to use Oliver rods in the meantime until I can receive some Pauter rods. The Oliver rods are just as nice and just as strong, but cost a little more.
I probably can't do much of a deal on the rods, but I can probably save you guys a little money if there were at least 10 sets bought. It would save on shipping too.
For all you guys looking to upgrade rods, it might be a wise idea to also do the crank at the same time. I sell a modified ej257 crank for $600 outright or $350 exchange. Yours must be new or nearly new. No damage is allowed.
I have seen stock ej257 cranks be out of balance by as much as 3 grams and the journals be out of round by a thousands or two. I guess Subaru is not paying as much attention to these as they did the older 2.0 stuff.
I optimise drill all the rod journals and 3 of the main journals to give positive feeding of oil at higher rpms. Kind of like a spec c crank, but better. Then the crank is balanced and polished. It actually is quite a nice peice of kit.
Ron
I can do a pretty good deal on a GB for CP pistons. They are now starting to do the stock style dish and cr, so if that's what you want, I can get them easily now.
You would probably be looking at about $400-425 per set without rings and around $500-525 with factory rings. The pistons I normally stock are wrx style dish and 8.5:1 cr.
If there are more than 10 sets, I can probably do even better. I would have to talk to CP first though.
On to rods. I have not been able to get Pauter rods for quite some time now. Either they are EXTREMELY backed up, or don't like the way I look or something.
I have started to use Oliver rods in the meantime until I can receive some Pauter rods. The Oliver rods are just as nice and just as strong, but cost a little more.
I probably can't do much of a deal on the rods, but I can probably save you guys a little money if there were at least 10 sets bought. It would save on shipping too.
For all you guys looking to upgrade rods, it might be a wise idea to also do the crank at the same time. I sell a modified ej257 crank for $600 outright or $350 exchange. Yours must be new or nearly new. No damage is allowed.
I have seen stock ej257 cranks be out of balance by as much as 3 grams and the journals be out of round by a thousands or two. I guess Subaru is not paying as much attention to these as they did the older 2.0 stuff.
I optimise drill all the rod journals and 3 of the main journals to give positive feeding of oil at higher rpms. Kind of like a spec c crank, but better. Then the crank is balanced and polished. It actually is quite a nice peice of kit.
Ron


