PICKLE

I could do with some of that Aluminium tubing you used for the Air feed Bob, to use over my FMIC pipe that runs over the turbo.(Just to reflect the heat away a little) Have been looking for something suitable that is over 3" ID. Where can I get it from???

Bob Rawle

I'll check the source and post the info as I've had a few mails about that now

cheers

bob

Mark A

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Bob

Found a second a lap post mapping. It's a shame you can't swop the chip in the driver.

Mark A

Bob Rawle

Mark thanks for that, good to know its an improvement, did a couple of things to the STi9 today.

Found this on the STi site, thought it might help the handling ...



Nice bolt locking ...

Mounted like this ..


While I'm here ...
Boost guage tapping position (seen a couple questions about this)

Thinking about oil contamination ...

No wonder the intercooler is good ...

Fuel Pressure sensor install ...

Engine bay general view now ...


cheers

bob

Bob Rawle

Its been pointed out that the dyno graphs have vanished from earlier posts, so to keep things available here they are again ..

Car as std and then just remapped ..


Airbox/Sti panel and Janspeed system ...


Add the Induction kit ...


The last graph is actually slightly "wrong" as the raw data showed 370 bhp and 374 ft lbs torque ... nice !!

BAH

Bob i thought you had changed the Dump valve to a Forge one, have you revirted back again

Have you also done the Earth Mod..?

Bob Rawle

Thought I responded last night however obviously not so ..

Yes the earth mod has been on the car from virtually day 1, I reverted to the factory bov in the ineterests of experimentation and found the car started overboosting so left on to establish why.

bob

PICKLE

Bob, can you get that type of filter/MAF tube combination in a classic MY99-00 application?? Need a decent sized filter, but the MAF tube is causing me probs with regards to room available!

The alloy section of yours replaces the MAF tube IIRC??

Bob Rawle

Funny you should ask that, hopefully a prototype will be available in the near future, I plan to test it on the STi5, then will have the same exhaust/induction combination for the GC8's as the GDB's since my 3" system suits either (by design).

bob

bob

BAH

Is it because you mapped with the Forge one fitted harder spring ect.., and the OEM one cant cope...???

Is changing the OEM BOV for the forge recirc a worth while mod as i was looking at doing this.

Bob Rawle

No its nothing to do with not coping, factory seems better if anything as it allowed better spool but as I said its an experiment so don't read anything into it. Uts defo worth changing on a GC8 car depending on how its set up.

bob

BAH

Its a 03 STI PPP so i guess ill save my money and put it towards the remap when the warranty runs out

SPEN555

Bob,

Any more progress on this? Are you now looking at the turbo or what are you thinking of doing with the turbo?

Damian.

Bob Rawle

I have decided what to do about turbos, I need to remove the sleeve bearing VF37 from the car and fit the titanium ball bearing VF36 I have, get the VF37 converted then swap things around again, currently I don't have the STi5 around so I'm waiting on that getting back so I don't have to rush at it. Had a coolant problem so whipped the heads off to check, not a gasket but head was cracked, stripped g'box while at it to check condition, all forward gears were fine with no wear, 3rd and 4th syncho rings a bit knacked, reverse was damaged somehow, apart from that it was holding up very well, anyway cost to rebuild to pristine was circa £1000/£1300 (including changing the 5th gear cluster to STi4 ... stronger) so I've gone for a six speed instead (thanks to David at API for sorting that) and once thats available next week car should soon be back, taken the opportunity to do a few tweaks to the engine while at it so should be "interesting". Bear in mind that this was the first engine of type that was done at RCM and has now covered circa 30k miles at 1.8/1.9 bar boost, teardown revealed nothing out of the ordinary at all, the whole bottom end is going back in just as it is but it will have the latest and greatest Omegas plus a few head tweaks. I will continue to use factory STi5 cams. So I can be sorting out that while the '9 is getting its turbo sorted. Running with factory management suitably adjusted to run at 1.7 bar boost without over reaching the maf scaling which has worked well so far. The AVC-r will not be in use. have some things to try re boost control and a sort of experiment to allow the use of the factory ecu without the off boost closedloop working to get rid of the surging effect.

cheers

bob

john banks

Sounds good Bob. I find the closed loop is really only a problem when cold? Have you got the MAF reversions sorted with a Forge recirc DV - again I find no issue with the OEM one, but find the Forge drives horribly with any shimming/springing from mild to wild.

Where abouts was the head crack?

Bob Rawle

Heads were cracked in the usual place between valve seats and plug position, yes the surgeing is very noticeable when cold on the 740's, its not bad when hot at slow speeds and virtually dissapears as you speed up but so many people have moaned about this that I thought I sort out a fix, sort of a pseudo lambda senso, easy I hope just need to present the ecu with some impedance to stop the CEL appearing and maintain the magic voltage that turns off the closed loop. Voltage divider of the right values should suffice.

I've had no problem with a forge bov, I use the version 4 one set to crack at 1.5 bar and have had no problems at all (yet) but I'm prepared for an issue to crop up.

bob

john banks

I suppose a three pin potentiometer would do it, but I wonder if the ECU requires to actually be able to rock the lambda output voltage across a point with some hysteresis to actually give an air fuel correction value though otherwise it would report an error? A bit of a PITA to test given how long the CEL takes to come on, I thought it often does it at very high speed, which is odd as it is open loop then. I'm sure I noted that when the green (IIRC) connectors are together that there was a lambda error until it warmed up and went closed loop. So the ECU was assuming the error condition until it went closed loop and displaying it as a current code on the dash display, but not on Delta Dash, and not storing it as a code.

Bob Rawle

It might do John, experimentation will tell, you can induce the CEL quite quickly by holding onto low boost in 4th over a widish rpm range. Its about the number of engine cycles that the ecu sees with the sensor "not there". Not seen a cel appear and dissapear as you describe, drove the '5 for a week like it just to log the conditions under which it came on. main thing is to establish wether or not the ecu looks for impedance or the voltage change.

john banks

The error could have been because I am using a simulated narrowband input off my wideband? I know when cold the wideband's simulated narrowband output deliberately shows a different impedance to the narrowband input, perhaps this triggered the CEL as it didn't behave OEM. Rather than go from nothing to all clear even mark-space, it showed the lambda error first, then went to all clear.

At least you have that fourth gear trick where you can reproduce it to test.

SPEN555

Bob,

On previous pics you have provided you have a 'T' piece into the dump valve hose and a brass piece in the fuel line for fuel pressure. Do you sell these parts or can you tell me where you got them? PM me if preferred.

I have just got some SPA gauges to fit to my JDM MY03 STi and I am currently looking at adaptors to suit. These parts are the kind of thing I am looking for.

Thanks,

Damian.

Bob Rawle

the blue tee piece formed part of the Defi kit I installed but it is the STi kit supplied by STi themselves and is customised to fit the car, even down to them providing connector points in the cars wiring loom. its the same blue tee piece that is also in the STi Sport boost gauge, there is no part number for it that I can find, you may be lucky and find a dealer with some as spares though. The Fuel pressure adaptor is from Lemans motorsport, www.lemansmotorsport.co.uk and is part number LMA070/8. 8mm inline with a 1/8 BSP threaded cross drilling.

bob

carlos_hiraoka

Bob, what's new on your car this days ? ..... heard that power has gone up again . Already changed the turbo ?

Carlos H.

David_Wallis

Bob, Im fairly sure it does do a fancy check, hence pats CEL fix using a microcontroller, it did do a bit more too though

Pat will be able to tell you whats required

David

Bob Rawle

Hi Carlos, yup its crept up a touch but nothing startling, about 12 bhp gained by refining maps, David are you thinking about the new age cars problems with cels, could be that Pats gizmo might work on the GC8 so I'll certainly raise it with him next time we speak.

cheers

bob

carlos_hiraoka

Bob, basically would like to know if it would be worth going to the new STi exhaust manifold + twin scroll turbo on a STi ver 3/4 and 5/6 engines ..... if the turbo is good enough for 350-360bhp with good fuel, and with a broader power band than a FE TD05 or a IHI VF34 then it might be worth considering for use on hillclimbing cars and with race gas we might be able to keep it reliable even with a TMIC.

Carlos H.

David_Wallis

ahh sorry bob, assumed you were talking about the 8/9 whatever it is

It possibly might.. be worth checking

David

Bob Rawle

Carlos the torque curve on my car is very wide, should be very sutable I would have thought.

David no its for the STi5/GC8 to see if I can eliminate the sensor.

cheers

bob

Bob Rawle

Since we have had this recent spell of bad weather I have been concious that I removed the hot water feed to my throttle body (see earlier in this thread), now whilst thats an advantage in summer in winter there could be an icing problem, happy to report that there is not so if anyone was put off doing this mod for that reason it would appear that fears are groundless.

Not the most earth shattering piece of info but very relevent at the moment.

cheers

bob

AJbaseBloke

Bob, do you think that a simple valve in the heater line would be an option? (I guess there could be a need to drain that line to prevent a hard freeze from splitting it?)

I do runs up into the mountains quite often, and the temps get down in the negative teens, so the heater could be rather useful then

Thanks

Bob Rawle

I would say yes, ideally put a valve in each side to totally isolate otherwise you will get conduction/convection occuring.

bob