erm.. im tired.. but am i missing something?

this is kind of contradicting?? is it not ?

job done.. as that all previous post said

however this wasnt mentioned.. nor did simon do it. comparing like for like..

David

 

Yes they do have the housings but not the tumbler inserts

 

David so what's the point of your post ... sorry if you are unable to follow me, I'm sure Simon did and thats who the post was aimed at.

Conrad ... thats the important bit dealt with then so should work v well .

cheers

bob

 

Yea, I got it thanks. Interesting to "compare and contrast" as always.

I notice the talk about the TGV assemblies, mine has a single manifold (as do all the JDM's i've seen) does your have the empty TGV's like an EU / UK STi?

Cheers

Simon

 

No as its a JDM so its "throttle body" style ie plain bores with nothing in there to restrict, with a little bit of head porting to match up the interface they would be a good mod on a wrx if your are swapping to aftermarket management (or even with oem thinking about it)

bob

 

Simon, Bob, my TGV housings are JDM, there is no butterfly plates(TGV's) but there is a divertor plate down one side of each barrel to force air down there, assume its for low speed running. Can we "not" call them "throttle bodys" its confusing and they are clearly not that, they are TGV housings albeit without the TGV's on the STi's. Just trying to make it clear for those that dont know what we are on about.

 

Conrad there are two types, those you mention and there are those that definately have no internal restriction at all, those are the ones I am discussing. Yours are TGV housings for sure not the STi plain ones. So for clarity I'm not talking about the same thing you are and hence the "throttle body" description cos thats what they are/represent ie plain bored housing that could never accept or be fitted with TGV's.

cheers

bob

 

bob,

You said "Readjusted throttle stop, and position sensor"

RE-ADJUSTED.. means you adjusted prior.. you simply said you had removed the water feed.. now was it your adjusting or the water feed that cocked up the cold start?

David

 

Neither since I didn't/don't have a problem with cold start just engine drop out as I came up to a junction semi cold ie after about 4 miles driving in traffic, thats what I posted about.

Since that was what I had just changed I reverted it, not relevent though, suspected lambda and /or maf ... neither of those. Since Subaru adjust the throttle stop at the factory I re-adjusted it to my own satisfaction as a double check (known issue in UK) but nothing wrong there.

In fact its an interesting issue relating to map settings and sensor scaling which, now identified, is providing useful insight.

Not related to anything other than map settings afaict. I've cured the engine drop, that was relatively easy, now investigating over run to closed loop transtion.

cheers

bob

 

Just for total clarity on this, I do not have any kind of housing or throttle body or anything else, simply a (red finish) single piece manifold (as you would find on a pre 00MY JDM STi car)

Cheers

Simon

 

simon, dont know whether you mailed my home account.. lost a few emails as my mail server started loosing mails.. so lost about 4 days worth

 

Simon, Bob, could you post pictures to clarify things for me. Thanks.

PS Simon, may be better to do your pics on your project thread so Bob doesnt get upset

 

Conrad

You have mail

Cheers

Simon

 

Thanks m8, appreciated.

 

back to the twin scroll turbos

Wonder if it is really worth, for hillclimbing / sprint applications to have the twin scroll setup (header, uppipe, turbo, etc.) fitted on an older GC8 STi ? ..... the amount of torque at 3300rpm is unbelievable.

Carlos H.

 

carlos try race fuel or a bottle of NF

 

already use race fuel, just trying to get even better throttle response, and more low end power .....

 

doh.. forgot

Coming over for totb this year?

 

nope

going to NY .

Carlos H.

 

Carlos,

Fit a Twin Scroll turbo with a bigger compressor wheel! (PE1825 style)

Mark.

 

Mark have u already tried this, cause the price of a PE1825 is very similar to that of a new IHI VF36 .....

Carlos H.

 

I mapped a Euro spec GT with a full twin scroll set-up - nice solid wall of torque, but not *that* special higher up the range. Maybe it needs the STi heads?

 

Exactly the type of info I was after ...... Richard, did u found more low end torque than with a typical FE TD05 ?

Carlos H.

 

MMMM what can i see hidding in the garage Bob Still got the tame classic then

 

Hi RB, yes she's still around, currently the subject of an excersise to match performance gained using aftermarket ecu's using the factory item.

cheers

bob

 

Following the recent hot weather and having had to make several lengthy drives that included some varied driving thought some more temp info might be of use.

With this airpipe that I now have fitted things have changed significantly, cruising charge is always within 2 degrees of ambient (usually just one) and intake temp as indicated by maf is within three, so huge improvement there, on hard loads charge rises no more than 16 degrees, thats from hot ambients of 32/34 and included after a very hard third/fourth/fifth to over 7500 in each (came across a Griffith, least thats what it looked like in the rear view mirror after I passed him). Temps recover immediately to with 5 degrees of cruise temp and drop back that level within a further minute.

Further more, the car was mapped so that it could get "just sparkly" if pushed really hard at 7k plus, normally ok but provokable, now I get zilch, no activity at all, so much so I thought the knocklink was dead ... nope works just fine, so, scope for more timing but not until the turbo gets sorted, I think I have decided what to do there but will take maybe a coupe of months to implement. So if you can stand the drainpipe look then this is a very good upgrade, I have removed the undertray as well so that opens out the rear of the engine bay and allows better airflow through. Coolant temps are running 5 degrees coolewr as the norm and oil temp maybe 6 degrees cooler as the norm, before I could achieve 110 ish when pushing on, now no more that 104/105.

bob

 

how about a set of these on the front to cover the air intake

http://store.vividracing.com/catalog...7d778c4ddb047f

 

Bob any pictures from under the bonnet of the air duct that you brought up from the fog light area?

 

Conrad here you are, I know I can open out by removing inner wing metal but leaving as is for now









fuz the foglight surrounds I used are available ready painted from Subaru at a cost of £32 a pair. Its not a hardship to fabricate a stainless mesh cover to tidy it up and keep the vermin out.

cheers

bob

 

By the way for info the problem I was having with the very light throttle is resolved by careful mapping around the maf scaling but I had damaged the front lambda when removing the heat shielding and getting enthusiastic with a hammer (don't ask) so a word of warning DO NOT shock these sensors, it actually looked as though there was nothing wrong with it but was running the car slightly rich biased all the time, new one sourced from japan and everything back as it should be so throttle body heating removed once again.

bob