Photo competition - round 1 - 'Night Time' - discussion thread
12 December 2003, 12:21 PM
#61
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10D it is then 
unless something better comes along between saving 
This is my hot pixel bit, appologies for pize size original was 2560 by 1920 so this is only a small part of it.
Cheers
Si
unless something better comes along between saving This is my hot pixel bit, appologies for pize size original was 2560 by 1920 so this is only a small part of it.
Cheers
Si
12 December 2003, 01:37 PM
#65
Should be an interesting weekend .... 2000mm focal length in prime focus mode 
Just taken a couple of pixel test images (cap on, eyepiece cover) with my Canon D10. Saved in raw, then converted to jpeg @ max quality. You can see a couple of blown pixels even on iso100... one is far bottom right, another is middle far left.
30 sec, iso 100 (1.86mb)
30 sec, iso 400 (2.47mb)
30 sec, iso 800 (3.45mb)
Mr.Cookie sent me a link to a handy tip for noise in night shots ... here.
Richie.
Just taken a couple of pixel test images (cap on, eyepiece cover) with my Canon D10. Saved in raw, then converted to jpeg @ max quality. You can see a couple of blown pixels even on iso100... one is far bottom right, another is middle far left.
30 sec, iso 100 (1.86mb)
30 sec, iso 400 (2.47mb)
30 sec, iso 800 (3.45mb)
Mr.Cookie sent me a link to a handy tip for noise in night shots ... here.
Richie.
12 December 2003, 06:54 PM
#66
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1D, dark frame, ISO 400, 30sec, noise reduction off
The camera does include a couple of noise reduction modes which do work, but it's still no match for the amazing long exposure performance of the latest CMOS cameras. Hopefully the rumoured replacement early next year will address this issue
The camera does include a couple of noise reduction modes which do work, but it's still no match for the amazing long exposure performance of the latest CMOS cameras. Hopefully the rumoured replacement early next year will address this issue
12 December 2003, 09:20 PM
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To add my tuppen'orth...
If anyone needs pictures hosting just send 'em over - no need tp ask - and I'll get 'em up as soon as I can...
SB
If anyone needs pictures hosting just send 'em over - no need tp ask - and I'll get 'em up as soon as I can...
SB
12 December 2003, 09:40 PM
#72
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Darren: yes, but:
- the stars are in the same place from frame to frame, so given the dark frame to work from, they can be easily removed in Photoshop
- it's the purple corners that are the problem - they're harder to remove
- the chip was designed to do 8 frames/sec, not 1 frame every few minutes
- the stars are in the same place from frame to frame, so given the dark frame to work from, they can be easily removed in Photoshop
- it's the purple corners that are the problem - they're harder to remove
- the chip was designed to do 8 frames/sec, not 1 frame every few minutes
12 December 2003, 10:56 PM
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Wow is about all i can say for Daryl's pics the only problem is that all pics should be taken for the competition which also applies to SIAL
Andy i don't notice my purple bit until i do long exposure like you but i also don't know how to get these out, although now i do know about them i'll take photo's with it in the back of my mind so i can frame it to crop out distortion.
Cheers
Si
the only problem is that all pics should be taken for the competition which also applies to SIAL Andy i don't notice my purple bit until i do long exposure like you but i also don't know how to get these out, although now i do know about them i'll take photo's with it in the back of my mind so i can frame it to crop out distortion.
Cheers
Si
13 December 2003, 10:03 PM
#74
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LOL @ V45DSM's entry - if only it were so easy to convince people that it's the photographer that counts and not the equipment!
I've given up trying to shoot dark subjects on film anyway - anyone remember this? It's a print from a perfectly good negative...
And, for comparison, exactly the same shot taken with exactly the same settings on a digital SLR (Canon D30):
It's all in the processing - and quality labs don't tend to bother doing disposables. Looks like you'll need all that Nikon gear after all, V45DSM
I've given up trying to shoot dark subjects on film anyway - anyone remember this? It's a print from a perfectly good negative...
And, for comparison, exactly the same shot taken with exactly the same settings on a digital SLR (Canon D30):
It's all in the processing - and quality labs don't tend to bother doing disposables. Looks like you'll need all that Nikon gear after all, V45DSM
13 December 2003, 10:25 PM
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Then it's all been worth the while
There have been plenty more threads on photography - here are some:
Which camera to buy?
Canon digital SLRs
The importance of giving enough information for a sensible answer
Camcorders and why you might just possibly want to consider one
Where to buy
Discussion on the MP equivalent of film
Web resources for the photographer
Film and technique for motorsports
More motorsports advice
APS and why you don`t want it
Auto exposure and why it`s not always a good thing
Zoom, focal lengths and why digital zoom should be banned
Filters and other reasons why an SLR is worth its weight in glass
The old film vs digital debate
REMINDER: last date for this round of competition entries is Monday
[Edited by AndyC_772 - 12/13/2003 10:29:53 PM]
There have been plenty more threads on photography - here are some:
Which camera to buy?
Canon digital SLRs
The importance of giving enough information for a sensible answer
Camcorders and why you might just possibly want to consider one
Where to buy
Discussion on the MP equivalent of film
Web resources for the photographer
Film and technique for motorsports
More motorsports advice
APS and why you don`t want it
Auto exposure and why it`s not always a good thing
Zoom, focal lengths and why digital zoom should be banned
Filters and other reasons why an SLR is worth its weight in glass
The old film vs digital debate
REMINDER: last date for this round of competition entries is Monday
[Edited by AndyC_772 - 12/13/2003 10:29:53 PM]
13 December 2003, 10:31 PM
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14 December 2003, 09:16 AM
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Hey, if you look closely you can see moon-boot prints. 'ADIDAS - MADE IN USSR'
Why did you use 1/750, ISO 800 and not 1/100 ISO 100? You'd get lower noise that way.
[Edited by AndyC_772 - 12/14/2003 9:16:47 AM]
Why did you use 1/750, ISO 800 and not 1/100 ISO 100? You'd get lower noise that way.
[Edited by AndyC_772 - 12/14/2003 9:16:47 AM]
14 December 2003, 10:48 AM
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1/750 is the shutter speed - the amount of time for which the sensor in your camera is exposed to light.
The ISO setting refers to the sensitivity of the camera - higher ISO means it requires less light to produce an image. The trade-off here is that if you increase ISO to make the camera more sensitive, the resulting photos contain more noise. Changing the ISO setting is equivalent to using a different film speed.
ISO 800 is pretty high, normally used for low light work (usually indoors) or when a fast shutter speed is needed to freeze motion. The moon, however, is a rock in bright sunshine - you don't need high speed film or a high ISO setting to photograph it. It's not moving very fast across the field of view either (although this obviously depends on magnification and whether the telescope can track it smoothly).
1/800th sec at ISO 800 gives exactly the same exposure as 1/100th sec at ISO 100 (and 1/200 at ISO 200 etc). The difference is that the noise level in the ISO 800 shot will be 8 times worse than the noise at ISO 100.
I'd recommend you have a good read through your camera's manual and any other basic tutorials you can find - I'll see if I can dig out one or two myself later on if you like. Shutter speed, ISO setting and aperture are the three variables which control exposure; although your camera can try and work them out for you, you'll get much better control over your photos (and know when the camera's likely to get it wrong!) if you understand how they work and the way in which the camera will tend to try and calculate them.
Andy.
[Edited by AndyC_772 - 12/14/2003 10:52:32 AM]
The ISO setting refers to the sensitivity of the camera - higher ISO means it requires less light to produce an image. The trade-off here is that if you increase ISO to make the camera more sensitive, the resulting photos contain more noise. Changing the ISO setting is equivalent to using a different film speed.
ISO 800 is pretty high, normally used for low light work (usually indoors) or when a fast shutter speed is needed to freeze motion. The moon, however, is a rock in bright sunshine - you don't need high speed film or a high ISO setting to photograph it. It's not moving very fast across the field of view either (although this obviously depends on magnification and whether the telescope can track it smoothly).
1/800th sec at ISO 800 gives exactly the same exposure as 1/100th sec at ISO 100 (and 1/200 at ISO 200 etc). The difference is that the noise level in the ISO 800 shot will be 8 times worse than the noise at ISO 100.
I'd recommend you have a good read through your camera's manual and any other basic tutorials you can find - I'll see if I can dig out one or two myself later on if you like. Shutter speed, ISO setting and aperture are the three variables which control exposure; although your camera can try and work them out for you, you'll get much better control over your photos (and know when the camera's likely to get it wrong!) if you understand how they work and the way in which the camera will tend to try and calculate them.
Andy.
[Edited by AndyC_772 - 12/14/2003 10:52:32 AM]
14 December 2003, 11:28 AM
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Ramdor,
Just seen the moon shot. Wow, that is cracking.
Any chance you could quickly do a run down on the equipment required for that. Obviously a 10D (which I have) and the telescaope but how do you couple the two together ? I would be grateful for links etc.
Cheers
Ian
Just seen the moon shot. Wow, that is cracking.
Any chance you could quickly do a run down on the equipment required for that. Obviously a 10D (which I have) and the telescaope but how do you couple the two together ? I would be grateful for links etc.
Cheers
Ian
14 December 2003, 11:37 AM
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Cheers for the knowledge, I will take a look at these sites soon, I have always realised it isn't just about what you take a picture of but how you do it, and I would like to learn, this was a brilliant idea guys.
14 December 2003, 01:46 PM
#85
Hi Ian,
It was a long night last night lol... was out there until the sun came up
There are two methods of photography through the telescope. One is prime focus, where the scope is used as a mondo telephoto lens, the other is eye piece projection. Prime focus - the light enters scope, and is focused directly onto the film/ccd. Eye piece projection, the light enters scope, passes through a telescope eyepiece and then is focused onto film/ccd. The latter provides much more zoom but as yet I have been unable to get a picture in focus using this method.
The equipment used for the shots....
Canon EOS D10
Meade 8" LX90 Schmidt-Cassegrain
Variable tele-extender
Canon EOS T-Piece Adaptor
I took some pics of Saturn earlier in the night, but it was very hard to focus the thing. When viewing through the eyepiece Saturn was very crisp, and I could see the smoothed out bands, gaps in the ring etc... however when using the camera it was extremely hard to get any level of detail. Not fully understanding why yet, but it was my 1st time with a telescope Montage of some 'iffy' Saturn pics here.
Richie.
It was a long night last night lol... was out there until the sun came up
There are two methods of photography through the telescope. One is prime focus, where the scope is used as a mondo telephoto lens, the other is eye piece projection. Prime focus - the light enters scope, and is focused directly onto the film/ccd. Eye piece projection, the light enters scope, passes through a telescope eyepiece and then is focused onto film/ccd. The latter provides much more zoom but as yet I have been unable to get a picture in focus using this method.
The equipment used for the shots....
Canon EOS D10
Meade 8" LX90 Schmidt-Cassegrain
Variable tele-extender
Canon EOS T-Piece Adaptor
I took some pics of Saturn earlier in the night, but it was very hard to focus the thing. When viewing through the eyepiece Saturn was very crisp, and I could see the smoothed out bands, gaps in the ring etc... however when using the camera it was extremely hard to get any level of detail. Not fully understanding why yet, but it was my 1st time with a telescope
Montage of some 'iffy' Saturn pics here.Richie.
14 December 2003, 01:55 PM
#86
Andy,
Why Iso800 and 1/750th? Very good question. I ended up taking 3 images at each setting and varying the settings, shutter speed, iso etc... and these just seemed the best when I got back to the PC. I'll keep the iso vs noise thing in mind next time. It's a case of too many settings, too many buttons
Richie.
[Edited by ramdor - 12/14/2003 2:17:41 PM]
Why Iso800 and 1/750th? Very good question. I ended up taking 3 images at each setting and varying the settings, shutter speed, iso etc... and these just seemed the best when I got back to the PC. I'll keep the iso vs noise thing in mind next time. It's a case of too many settings, too many buttons
Richie.
[Edited by ramdor - 12/14/2003 2:17:41 PM]
14 December 2003, 03:35 PM
#88
As all the experts are here together, can i take this opportunity to ask u guys a question...
I have a Fuji FinePix1300 and need to get some light into pictures taken at night with some lighting (albeit very poor) Any suggestions? Thanks
Dont want to hijack this thread, so could somebody answer my thread in NSR or email me, thanx
I have a Fuji FinePix1300 and need to get some light into pictures taken at night with some lighting (albeit very poor) Any suggestions? Thanks
Dont want to hijack this thread, so could somebody answer my thread in NSR or email me, thanx
14 December 2003, 03:53 PM
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Boro,
Have a quick look at this. You have a few options from Automatic Exposure (AE) Lock to Exposure Compensation. However your ISO is stuck at 125 and the camera selects the shutter speed, f/stop, white balance for you, but you could try locking the level on the brighest part of the subject and moving the rest into the image with the button held half down (check the manual about this).
Hope this helps,
Jules
Have a quick look at this. You have a few options from Automatic Exposure (AE) Lock to Exposure Compensation. However your ISO is stuck at 125 and the camera selects the shutter speed, f/stop, white balance for you, but you could try locking the level on the brighest part of the subject and moving the rest into the image with the button held half down (check the manual about this).
Hope this helps,
Jules
14 December 2003, 08:24 PM
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Richie,
Thanks for that, sounds like gadget city. Not that that is a bad thing of course
Guy on one of the Canon forum sites does similar to you and is also turning out great results. See here: Keiths Site uses a Canon G2 for these.
Cheers
Ian
Thanks for that, sounds like gadget city. Not that that is a bad thing of course
Guy on one of the Canon forum sites does similar to you and is also turning out great results. See here: Keiths Site uses a Canon G2 for these.
Cheers
Ian