PART 2 (STi 8 Tuning Path) What's Isn't Working?
23 November 2003, 06:29 PM
#155
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car won't start yet again this morning, (still hasn't), battery is on its knees, what's the voltage supposed to be when cranking, I'm getting just over 7 volts, crank & cam sensor probably not getting sufficient voltage!
In case your wondering, battery was changed to a smaller item by G-force when they fitted FMIC because the pipes dont go round the UK battery.
Conrad
In case your wondering, battery was changed to a smaller item by G-force when they fitted FMIC because the pipes dont go round the UK battery.
Conrad
23 November 2003, 07:49 PM
#156
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
Posts: 15,239
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
7 volts isnt enough to power most ignition systems...
Mine certainly wont fire with less than about 12 volts..
I would want 12v when cranking and around 13.8 when running..
Battery needs replacing if its a 7 volts.. some sealed batterys dont like going flat and can be useless after they have..
unless its something like an optima deep cycle battery
David
[Edited by David_Wallis - 11/23/2003 7:53:04 PM]
Mine certainly wont fire with less than about 12 volts..
I would want 12v when cranking and around 13.8 when running..
Battery needs replacing if its a 7 volts.. some sealed batterys dont like going flat and can be useless after they have..
unless its something like an optima deep cycle battery
David
[Edited by David_Wallis - 11/23/2003 7:53:04 PM]
24 November 2003, 11:12 AM
#159
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
Posts: 15,239
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
interesting point with something like the optima's they can be mounted in any position.. If getting one.. IIRC the RED's are for starting cars.. CCA's are better.. cue adam with his argument about yellow tops..
David
David
25 November 2003, 11:18 AM
#164
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Update, the battery is to be replaced this week so we can achieve more than 7.0 volts when cranking, this should ensure the cam & crank sensors get sufficient voltage to work.
Gruppe-S headers should be here on Friday, should be wrapped & fitted over the weekend (need to get some wrap from somewhere?), mapping to cure the cold start / warm start / and take account of the headers is on the 2nd of December.
The headers is the only mod I'm doing before the remap so we sjould be able to gauge exactly what they are worth as an individual item.
Conrad
Gruppe-S headers should be here on Friday, should be wrapped & fitted over the weekend (need to get some wrap from somewhere?), mapping to cure the cold start / warm start / and take account of the headers is on the 2nd of December.
The headers is the only mod I'm doing before the remap so we sjould be able to gauge exactly what they are worth as an individual item.
Conrad
25 November 2003, 08:12 PM
#168
Paint is a high temp silicone coating which appears to be reasonably effective at waterproofing. Haven't looked at mine for a week or two but it has already lasted longer than some up-pipe wrap which gave in after three weeks unpainted.
If/when I get round to doing this again I would seriously consider the heavy ceramic coating as used by Darren (Gadget Daz). Exhaust wrap is not cheap, particularly if it needs redone semi-regularly. My headers were ceramic coated as supplied but the coating was thin and flaked off in short order. Darren's looked like it would stay on there
callum
If/when I get round to doing this again I would seriously consider the heavy ceramic coating as used by Darren (Gadget Daz). Exhaust wrap is not cheap, particularly if it needs redone semi-regularly. My headers were ceramic coated as supplied but the coating was thin and flaked off in short order. Darren's looked like it would stay on there
callum
25 November 2003, 08:53 PM
#170
Yes, I bought both from Demon Tweeks but I'm sure that if Rally Design do the wrap they will almost certainly supply the paint as well - cheaper is better when the product is the same
25 November 2003, 10:16 PM
#172
Hi Conrad,
Car's going fine thanks - well enough to be done for 81mph on a quiet A9 at 9pm on Friday evening anyway 
Fair few mods so far inc. FMIC, exhaust, induction, injectors, hybrid turbo & Ecutek but the car is badly needing a remap to do the mods justice. However, it would be stupid to do this before the 2.5 block & the new ECU goes in, particularly given how far I am from a mapper.
Recently, on the R/R, I had 294bhp/304ft/lbs with max power just over 5500 - despite this the car feels strong to at least 6500.
I still think it needs a lot more at the bottom end i.e. from 2500. I'm sure this will make it easier to drive quickly & much more fun as long as I avoid the A9
Watching the developments on your car with lots of interest
callum
Car's going fine thanks
- well enough to be done for 81mph on a quiet A9 at 9pm on Friday evening anyway Fair few mods so far inc. FMIC, exhaust, induction, injectors, hybrid turbo & Ecutek but the car is badly needing a remap to do the mods justice. However, it would be stupid to do this before the 2.5 block & the new ECU goes in, particularly given how far I am from a mapper.
Recently, on the R/R, I had 294bhp/304ft/lbs with max power just over 5500 - despite this the car feels strong to at least 6500.
I still think it needs a lot more at the bottom end i.e. from 2500. I'm sure this will make it easier to drive quickly & much more fun as long as I avoid the A9
Watching the developments on your car with lots of interest
callum
26 November 2003, 12:04 PM
#174
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
Posts: 15,239
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Not taking the **** but exhaust wrap doesnt come off when fitted properly..
Dont use jubilee clips.. Use Stainless steel lock wire and a pair of lock wire pliers..
Soak the wrap in water and apply when wet.. over lapping only by the amount indicated on the line, and make it tight.
I know of exhaust wrap that has done 20k miles and is on like new.
David
Dont use jubilee clips.. Use Stainless steel lock wire and a pair of lock wire pliers..
Soak the wrap in water and apply when wet.. over lapping only by the amount indicated on the line, and make it tight.
I know of exhaust wrap that has done 20k miles and is on like new.
David
26 November 2003, 01:59 PM
#175
No problem David
Due to a leaking up-pipe gasket I had to remove my up-pipe at least three times & the headers four times
I used the brown DEI wrap, installed it wet & tight, used stainless ties but the first time around did not spray it. I wanted to install an EGT sensor in the up-pipe the first time it came off and had to unravel part of the wrap to get at the boss. When I took it off it just fell to bits
Maybe you are using better wrap or methods? Any advice would be very welcome.
cheers.
callum
Due to a leaking up-pipe gasket I had to remove my up-pipe at least three times & the headers four times
I used the brown DEI wrap, installed it wet & tight, used stainless ties but the first time around did not spray it. I wanted to install an EGT sensor in the up-pipe the first time it came off and had to unravel part of the wrap to get at the boss. When I took it off it just fell to bits
Maybe you are using better wrap or methods? Any advice would be very welcome.
cheers.
callum
26 November 2003, 05:30 PM
#176
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
Posts: 15,239
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
no, the wrap is pretty much useless if you try and take it off as it almost turns to glass.
David
David
29 November 2003, 05:53 PM
#180
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 3,531
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Conrad
Just getting the parts together, got the 2.5 block sorted, just waiting for 650cc injectors and STI5 heads and once i've got these they can be ported and then its off to XtremeScoobies to be put together Fitting stronger head bolts and up-rated oil pump supplied by Lateral. If i've got enough money left i may opt for some Leda while its at Xtreme
Good luck with the headers
Scott
Just getting the parts together, got the 2.5 block sorted, just waiting for 650cc injectors and STI5 heads and once i've got these they can be ported and then its off to XtremeScoobies to be put together
Fitting stronger head bolts and up-rated oil pump supplied by Lateral. If i've got enough money left i may opt for some Leda while its at Xtreme Good luck with the headers
Scott