New Prodrive Springs finally out for STi
16 September 2003, 11:22 PM
#93
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Any chance of a copy of those please? My springs were fitted today and no instructions in box - hence the muppets did a best guess. Dealer is now ringing Prodrive tomorrow for the settings but I'd like to have an independant source. Thanks.
16 September 2003, 11:38 PM
#94
Track Day Organiser
I can fax them on Thursday but will be at TSL Tomorrow
The Settings on page 3 state
Hope that helps
As I said I can fax this to anybody from Lunch time Thursday
Phil
The Settings on page 3 state
The tyre pressures and Suspension Geometry MUST be set correctly to the figures below to achieve the full benefit of the spring package.It is also important to settle the suspension so that the geometry is setat the correct ride height
a) Set the tyre pressures to:
Front 2.3bar(33psi)
Rear 2.1bar(31psi)
b) Settle the suspension by driving a few miles on the road
c) Set the Geometry to:
Front Camber -1.15'(-1.25')
Front Toe total 0.00'(0.00')
Rear toe 0.06'(0.1) per wheeltoe in [0.12'(0.2) total toe in]
a) Set the tyre pressures to:
Front 2.3bar(33psi)
Rear 2.1bar(31psi)
b) Settle the suspension by driving a few miles on the road
c) Set the Geometry to:
Front Camber -1.15'(-1.25')
Front Toe total 0.00'(0.00')
Rear toe 0.06'(0.1) per wheeltoe in [0.12'(0.2) total toe in]
As I said I can fax this to anybody from Lunch time Thursday
Phil
17 September 2003, 10:13 AM
#95
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Jubal
There were most definately instructions in every single box of 03STi springs, I put them there myself!!
Even if there wasn't any instructions the dealers have the information available on their extranet.
Mike
There were most definately instructions in every single box of 03STi springs, I put them there myself!!
Even if there wasn't any instructions the dealers have the information available on their extranet.
Mike
)
18 September 2003, 04:51 PM
#98
Scooby Regular
*Set the tyre pressures to: Front 2.3bar(33psi) Rear 2.1bar(31psi)*
Even though I don't have the spring kit yet, would you recommend these pressures for an STi7 type uk ?
Even though I don't have the spring kit yet, would you recommend these pressures for an STi7 type uk ?
22 September 2003, 09:56 PM
#100
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Had my sti8 kitted out with new prodrive springs today!
What a difference,the handling is so much more better and the dreaded bounce is more bearable.
The springs have improved the stance of the car as also the ride quality.
must try to post a pic!
What a difference,the handling is so much more better and the dreaded bounce is more bearable.
The springs have improved the stance of the car as also the ride quality.
must try to post a pic!
23 September 2003, 09:13 PM
#101
Took delivery of the Prodrive springs today and hope to fit them myself over the weekend. I've done a few spring changes before on R.S's Cossies and a Mondeo, the Subaru looks pretty straightforward? (famous last words!)
Has anyone done this and have you any tips or pointers for the job, e.g. do the rear seat backs come off easily for access to the top strut mounts etc.
I shall run the car for a few days to settle the springs well before getting the geometry re-set.
JohnD
Has anyone done this and have you any tips or pointers for the job, e.g. do the rear seat backs come off easily for access to the top strut mounts etc.
I shall run the car for a few days to settle the springs well before getting the geometry re-set.
JohnD
24 September 2003, 08:54 AM
#102
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JohnD,
Getting to the rear struts is easy, undo 2 bolts holding in rear seat base, lift out, then undo the 2 bolts holding in rear of seat, lift upwards (rear of seat hooks over 3 clips) and lift out. Strut mountings should then be visible. Fitting, as they say, is the reverse.
Let me know the results of your efforts and as mentioned before any ride quality improvement.
Good luck,
Hoddy
Getting to the rear struts is easy, undo 2 bolts holding in rear seat base, lift out, then undo the 2 bolts holding in rear of seat, lift upwards (rear of seat hooks over 3 clips) and lift out. Strut mountings should then be visible. Fitting, as they say, is the reverse.
Let me know the results of your efforts and as mentioned before any ride quality improvement.
Good luck,
Hoddy
27 September 2003, 07:53 PM
#104
Well, I fitted the fronts today and here are a couple of observations for those contemplating doing the same.
The standard springs are machined on the top to, presumably, locate in the top cup with more contact area. The prodrive springs are not machined and are simply cropped. In addition the spring ends in a different part of the circle than the std. which means the top cup has to be re-fitted in a different position. I re-fitted it so the end of the spring sat where the original end sat, there being no instructions to the contrary. All re-fitted, ok so far! The other side was going fine until the rubber seat in the top cup fell out! Now I've got no indication as to which one of four possible positions it should be and thus the correct location of the top cup on the new spring - bugger! This may not sound a problem but when you see the angle of the cup in relation to the raised seating for the bearing(steering) assembly you know you've got to get it right! Luckily my son, Chris has an STi8 as well so there I am shining a torch under his wheelarch to see the position of a couple of holes which are in the top cup, then replicate this on top of the orig. spring sitting in position on the strut. With this I could judge where it should sit on the new spring. By this time I should have been well into changing the rears! (Sundays job) I just hope I did it right! - never had this trouble with the Cossie!
Final tip Make a note of the top one of the two bolts that hold the strut to the hub assy., it's the camber adjustment bolt (eccentric) Re-fit it to its orig. angle until you get the revised geometry set.
JohnD
The standard springs are machined on the top to, presumably, locate in the top cup with more contact area. The prodrive springs are not machined and are simply cropped. In addition the spring ends in a different part of the circle than the std. which means the top cup has to be re-fitted in a different position. I re-fitted it so the end of the spring sat where the original end sat, there being no instructions to the contrary. All re-fitted, ok so far! The other side was going fine until the rubber seat in the top cup fell out! Now I've got no indication as to which one of four possible positions it should be and thus the correct location of the top cup on the new spring - bugger! This may not sound a problem but when you see the angle of the cup in relation to the raised seating for the bearing(steering) assembly you know you've got to get it right! Luckily my son, Chris has an STi8 as well so there I am shining a torch under his wheelarch to see the position of a couple of holes which are in the top cup, then replicate this on top of the orig. spring sitting in position on the strut. With this I could judge where it should sit on the new spring. By this time I should have been well into changing the rears! (Sundays job) I just hope I did it right! - never had this trouble with the Cossie!
Final tip Make a note of the top one of the two bolts that hold the strut to the hub assy., it's the camber adjustment bolt (eccentric) Re-fit it to its orig. angle until you get the revised geometry set.
JohnD
01 October 2003, 10:39 AM
#107
Springs installed, settled and the geometry set at Elite in Rainham. The guy on the desk was a little surprised at zero toe with 1.25 degrees neg. camber on the front. It cost 82 quid but their laser equip. can handle 18's - not all garages can.
So far it feels good but I need to use a few known roads to really evaluate the results (and take the missus out, I've calculated that if her moaning equals the square root of what it was before then it was worth the money!)
JohnD
So far it feels good but I need to use a few known roads to really evaluate the results (and take the missus out, I've calculated that if her moaning equals the square root of what it was before then it was worth the money!)
JohnD
10 November 2003, 12:32 PM
#108
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Did any of you guys need to replace the suspensions eccentric bolts in order to achieve 1.25' neg. camber?
I'm setting the geomtry according to the ProDrive spec. and the guy at the workshop says he has to replace bolts with longer ones.
any help/experience will be appreciated...
ProDrive ???
thanks
I'm setting the geomtry according to the ProDrive spec. and the guy at the workshop says he has to replace bolts with longer ones.
any help/experience will be appreciated...
ProDrive ???
thanks
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