Floyd

iTrader: (9)

To make a comparison (check my figures) I've got a spare temp gauge and thermocouple, which I'll happily set up on a local MY99/00. Email me if you're interested please and if you're in the MK area.

F

Nology

I read out my temperatures with a Digital Thermometer(3.5" in length that looks like a multimeter). Allows twin input sources. Hence, i have my K type thermocouples screw into my Sti V IC inlet and outlet permanently. ( drilled and self threaded the holes ) The thermometer has a dT; Hold and Max function.

My MY00 runs a FE TD05 with MBC.
Ambient was 30C. On a run from standstill to 4th at 1.1 bar saw my inlet temp to IC max of 100C and IC outlet 46C with IC water spray on 5 min before. (Note: the digital thermo was set on capturing the max temp so i don't know where about the rev range or gear or boost did the 100C come about...)No activity on the KL too.

With these figures, the Sti V IC efficiency was 77%. I do not know the pressure drop though. The 77% may not be representative bcoz my water spray was on. May try another run without it.

keet

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

The TD05 should run cooler than my TD04 and you have got a slightly better TMIC IIRC, add that to the water spray (5-10C drop) and humidity then my figures could look reasonable?

I'd still like to set someone else up to check though...

F

Gridlock Mikey

I remember in the winter there was a little spot of opinion saying cold weather was "dangerous" for the engine causing it to det etc and now it seems that there has been a total U turn

Interesting reading none the less, but wierd don't you think?

I suppose there is an optimum temperature to run a scoob at, like most machines, but surely people shouldn't be overly concerned because England has a few warm (Not really hot are they, really? ) days.

Folk will never drive em soon, Winter too cold, Spring to moist, summer too hot, autumn to much rain, salt and leaves

Mikey

DanPhillips

If its cold and your ECU doesn't\can't put enough fuel in to
make the mixture nice it can be dangerous...
If it is hot and it can't get enough air in you get a similar bad
mixture...

So solution...have enough fuel for when its cold and have enough
air when its hot.

Uprated fuel pump and uprated intercooler along with properly
mapped ecu...

Unfortuneatly it doesn't look like the STI7 PPP has a properly
mapped ECU...

My dealer has ordered a bunch of new sensors and we are awaiting a
reply from Mike Wood of Prodrive for a possible fix.

Subaru themselves were not helpfull..."the weathers hot boost is
bound to be down" but not to half what it normally is...good job
I'm not selling the car on a hot day or I decide to move to Spain.

Anyway I'll let people know when Ive got more info

Cheers

Dan

john banks

Mikey there is no U turn. It is well known that hot or cold weather well outside the parameters the car is mapped for both give their own problems. Both can result in detonation if the safety margin is misjudged or the hardware is not up to the task or something else changes on the car meantime.

In reality most cars that light up knocklinks briefly with a few odd flashes are only experiencing transitional det in 4400-5200 RPM range which is not so harmful, but still undesirable.

Gridlock Mikey

Fair enuff,

Summat new every day and all that

Mikey

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

We'll make you paranoid like the rest of us Mikey and then you'll have a dash board fit for the star ship Enterprise

Go on, get some gauges and really start to worry!

F

Leslie