steven.. when the car is running it isnt going to be warm (unless you mean due to engine bay heat)

And it is technically supplying the starter.. as the current needs to return to the battery.. (ie both cables should be the same size)

David

 

Well done Steve.

I think there have been a few of us who have been eyeing up thar exact distribution block in the Maplin book.

I was thinking of running a bigger cable from the battery through the distribution block to a good earth out the other side. And them using the 8 other connectors to link around the engine.

Pobably wont work too well that way

 

Another 2 connected to the way block. One from the alternator and one form the top of the passenger strut.

Stopped doing anymore as Trout arrived to collect his terminal block, then as he left Mr Wallis arrived to help me with the water injection.

Cheers David

Steven

 

no probs.

David

 

Had the earth mod for a few months now, and can confirm (after a fair bit of car stereo experience) that anything with clear insulation is not too good at being exposed to "turbo-esque" heat levels.

I got some plain black cable from halfords, and tested it it the oven It lasted well. Then I used to it on the car (in that delicate "just near the turbo" area.

The clear stuff I had a huge drum of is doing fine, apart from the lead that goes the engine block, where the insulation cracked when I removed my intercooler two days ago, and (pay attention here P20SPD) the one that goes to the front earth point. I routed this along one of the air-con pipes, which may be the problem, but where it is near the radioator, the insulation has brittled and cracking. I would suggest you ensure you route AWAY from any heat sources with this stuff.

 

...and see how warm the starter gnd cable gets after cranking the car a few times without spark for 20 seconds (as you would when changing oil)

Richard

 

Cheers guys, all cables are kept WELL away from heat, well as far as they can for added safety.

 

Talking of start earthing wires..

I decided not to add earthing to my start motor as I decided I didn;t want it to crank over quicker and therefore start quicker as the slower it cranks and therefore starts after more cranks the more oil will be slightly hire pressure etc?? just a thought..

JGM

 

Then you could add a delayed line to your crank position senor lead? It would show no signal for 5 seconds of cranking and then BING!. Lovely oil everywhere, then.
Simple enough jobbie to make with maplin bits......

 

Steve,

Sounds a good idea only, not fitting extra earth to the starter motor cost nothing and saved me to cost of the cable and the effort but perhaps that would be a neat idea..

I am only using my car at the weekends at the moment and I try and turn it over three times without starting before allowing it to start to try and get some oil flowing else the I can here the tappets rattle etc..

Might be a worthwhile mod..

JGM

 

I'd have to think about how I would do it....and whether it's worth it. I think proper race cars have elctric oil heaters, which might be better? =shrug=

 

Steve

Did you solder your connections, if so can smoebody recommend a soldering iron up to the job, as mine does not seem to be able to offer enough heat transfer to the thick wire and the gold plated connector.

Mark A

 

Yes i did, one bead of solder, and a blow torch

 

That's be my recommendation too. Blow torch. Mans best friend.

TBH, you shouldn't need to solder them: though you MAY want to weatherproof the area: esp if you too my route of dremmling off the paint where you attach to the chassis.