I agree with JB on the "improper" bit here - but the Dawes has done wonders for my linked car, however cheap it may feel.



/J

 

Don't tell me J/, my best modifications would be a) learn how to drive and b) lose the weight of the ICE...



Cheers all, a Dawes device sounds eminently worthwhile then. David, I may be asking for your help with pipes, etc

 

John, thanks for the feedback... Just one question. You said:
What's this 1.5mm bleed hole? Is it standard? Do I need to do anything more? Sorry to cover very old ground to you, but I want to know what I'm getting myself in to

Also, race version or normal version? Is the race version worth the extra?

Many thanks to all

 

Normal version with 1.5mm hole - can order like this from Jamie.

 

LOL at JB a DD isn't proper

Just because Subaru didn't fit it as standard doesn't mean it's not proper - I can't believe you had a problem with that... Now having an unused hose with a screw in the end I can understand a problem with that!

Mike

 

Reading this thread with interest. I did think about getting a Dawes awhile ago and this has re-kindled my desire. What I would like is for someone to fit/tune it for mr. I don't have a Boost Guage, although it sounds like I will need one. Is it essential? Would like to spend upto £100 to get it bought and set up. Is this possible?

Sorry for turning this into another Dawes thread

 

DIY FCD and a couple of turns on the Actuator should do it....

Total Cost £15 max....

 

Nimbus, I was a little reluctant to do it myself, but it's actually very straighforward when it comes down to it. Harryboy's website is helpful (I work better following pictures than words). Assuming you want it for a Scoob, look here: http://www.geocities.com/harryboy_scooby/

You will need a boost gauge and a mount which will set you back at least £100 IIRC depending on type etc. If you were Surrey I'd offer to help...

 

DIY AFR is shown on Harryboy's site and has a diagram of my Layout.
I have a similar Diagram and info for the FCD if reqired.

 

Scott, you can tell me / send me info. about your FCD, if you fancy. Thanks
Mike
<corner>

 

Ok then, can anyone suggest how I can up the boost a tad to get the best out of my Vf23 turbo without the danger of having my engine go bang bearing in mind I have an STI IV Type R. Would the best combination be some sort of ECU\Dawes combination and would I need to do any other mods at the same time to shore up the engine reliabity.

Alos can a re-mappable ECU be re-mapped so that you can run a STI safely on 97 RON as having to search for Shells stations and topping up with octane booster all the time can be a bit of a drag at times.

Lastly am I right in assuming that the knock link and Lambda probe only warn you of potential knock and don't actually help in preventing it. Maybe I am missing the point but If this is the case surely a couple of hundred quid for some flashing lights is a bit excessive. I appreciate that it warns you of knock\det but the fact that the only thing you can do when you see the flashing lights is too take your foot off the loud pedal sort of defeats the point of owning a Scooby. If I wanted a car to run at low revs I would have bought a diesel.

 

I beleive an STi can be remapped to run 97RON, although on a IV it may require a trip to Power Engineering as it probably uses a 97 or 98 ECU.

 

I still have some of these components kicking about at home, so I'll have a look tonight.

MAP Values for an MY99/00 are as below....
Bar Map sensor output (volts)
0.0 2.29
0.1 2.44
0.2 2.58
0.3 2.73
0.4 2.90
0.5 3.03
0.6 3.18
0.7 3.33
0.8 3.47
0.9 3.63
1.0 3.78
1.1 3.92
1.2 4.07
1.25 4.13
1.3 4.21
1.4 4.36
1.5 4.52
1.6 4.67
1.7 4.81
1.8 4.93
1.9 5.01
2.0 5.01

So the 4K7 Pots need to be set to the lower limit and upper limit required i.e 3.47 and 4.07 (approx)
This will fool the ECU into thinking that only 0.8BAR is being produced, but fuel cut will still activate if you exceed 1.2BAR

Shorten the Actuator approx 2-3 turns to set the boost level you require.

P.S There is another thread on the subject somewhere, which was started by John, but I'll be buggered if I can find it....

[Edited by Scott.T - 9/17/2002 5:31:42 PM]

 

NENO, Yes, it's for an Impreza (UK - MY95).

Interesting site, thanks. The only problem I have with a boost gauge is where to put it. I don't want to have it sticking out of the dash.

 

uxg - the link (or other det detector) is there for if there's a problem the car isn't mapped for - like a dodgy batch of fuel. You're not meant to drive by it
I'd have thought that it's a good idea to get the ECU sorted pretty quick - I may be totally off here, but I'm pretty sure that the larger turbo is going to be flowing more air at the same boost, so more fuel will be needed? Granted the intake temp will be reduced a tad so det is less likely, but I'd have thought that's a fairly big assumption to be working by? Or do you have an AFR meter already to check it?
As John hasn't brought this up though, I presume I'm talking poo

 

Pre96 cars use a different Map Sensor, the values for this are below :

kPa mmHg PSI Bar mv
-26.7 -200 -3.87 -0.267 2100
-21.36 -160 -3.096 -0.2136 2200
-16.02 -120 -2.322 -0.1602 2300
-10.68 -80 -1.548 -0.1068 2400
-5.34 -40 -0.774 -0.0534 2500
0 0 0 0 2600
5.34 40 0.774 0.0534 2700
10.68 80 1.548 0.1068 2800
16.02 120 2.322 0.1602 2900
21.36 160 3.096 0.2136 3000
26.7 200 3.87 0.267 3100
32.04 240 4.644 0.3204 3200
37.38 280 5.418 0.3738 3300
42.72 320 6.192 0.4272 3400
48.06 360 6.966 0.4806 3500
53.4 400 7.74 0.534 3600
58.74 440 8.514 0.5874 3700
64.08 480 9.288 0.6408 3800
69.42 520 10.062 0.6942 3900
74.76 560 10.836 0.7476 4000
80.1 600 11.61 0.801 4100
85.44 640 12.384 0.8544 4200
90.78 680 13.158 0.9078 4300
96.12 720 13.932 0.9612 4400
101.46 760 14.706 1.0146 4500
106.8 800 15.48 1.068 4600
112.14 840 16.254 1.1214 4700
117.48 880 17.028 1.1748 4800
122.82 920 17.802 1.2282 4900
128.16 960 18.576 1.2816 5000

The Max Voltage that you can get out of one of these is about 4.8V, so don't set the FCD any higher than that or fuel cut protection will not work.

Also if being used on a Pre96 the FCD needs to be fitted with a Voltage Reglator. I used a 10V Regulator at the power input and powered from a 12V source.
The reason for using the 10V regualtor is so that the voltage for the FCD can be set higher (it won't work if the upper level is 4.4V or more when supplied with a 5V source), due to the difference between MY99/00 and Pre96 Map Sensor scalings.

On my MY94 I set the levels to 4.1 and 4.7V. Any wider and the latch back at 4.7V won't work (i.e don't have more than 0.6-0.7V difference between the upper and lower levels).

Also I was running a PPP chip so I could set the lower level to 4.1V, which is higher that standard target boost maximum. So a Standard Pre96 should really be set to about 4.0V and maybe 4.65V.

 

John B - is there any benefit for me getting a dawes again? To add onto the Tek you did for me (which is excellent btw).

Sounds like the best situation is a mix of both.

Richard.

 

Richard,

I think Saxo Boy's running with that config (Tek 3 + Dawes). Sounds like a good combo to me

Stefan

 

Thanks for the reply NOM

Yep I am begining to think I need to do the ECu sooner rather than later. Any suggestions. Is a TEK 3 referring to an Ecutek replacement ECu with a re-map. Are the link ECU's any good?

Does anyone have any rough estimates on how muchit would cost to get either of these chips and a re-map?

 

Scott,

You say that you should't go above 4800 mv on a Pre My97?

When I tested the FCD for MY96 I set the

Cut in at 13.54 PSI 4350 mv
Cut out at 18.18 PSI 4950 mv

I tested this using a big syringe attacted to the MAP Sensor & measured the output of the FCD & it cut in & out fine.

Chris

 

uxg,

The Tek3 is a custom remap by EcuTek.

They can either re-map your existing ECU or they will simply swap your current one for another (of the same type).

Stefan

 

EcuTek is only for UK MY99/00 at the moment - can't see them doing the STI IV for a while! Link is a popular and, ahem, 'affordable' option.

 

Stefan - yep, heard that was what Kenny was using. Sounds like a good combo - faster spool with the dawes but the fueling and raised full cut with the ecu remap.

Of course - once I get some money again and go for a new turbo, etc next year......

Richard.

 

NOM

LOL at "affordable". The ECU prices do seem quite excessive seeing as there really isn't much to them. After all I know it's not the same thing but you can buy a Pentium 4 chip for less than a few hundred quid these days and they are lot more complicated than a car's ECU chip. Oh well supply and demand and all that I guess.

Give me my old Fiat Uno turbo back. Stick in a £15 bleed valve, turn up the boost to 30 psi and then just drive it till the engine blows as a recon engine was only about £150 quid. Ah the good old days

 

I looked, as some will no doubt be aware, at going with Tek3 or link. Weighing it up, with what you get from BRD for the link, the link was the more cost effective way to go for me. One because small adjustments are far easier, ie you can do it yourself. Whereas the TEK was expensive in comparison.IMHO.

Steven

 

Richard you can use the Dawes with your Tek map and it works quite well, but you really need a boost gauge and a knocklink too which puts the cost up. Depends if you want gauges in your car.

 

Thanks John - got a boost gauge but no Knock-link (still have a Dawes AFR to fit as well). What sort of benefits would I see?

Richard.