NON diy fmic project
#93
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550s awaited, also with the ported wastegate I am still struggling for top end boost despite 1.2 bar actuator - only just managing 1.2 bar at 7000 RPM. At 90% injector DC on 440s it is a little lean. I will see what I can get at the redline.
[Edited by john banks - 9/19/2002 6:50:03 PM]
[Edited by john banks - 9/19/2002 6:50:03 PM]
#95
My problem with the VF30 is that the boost isn't getting lower in
high rpm's it's just keeps climbing..but haven't tried to set it over 1.3bar yet...but usually have ~1.33bar @redline..
Maybe just the link that overboost
JB were did you get the catch tank from..I think I will be needing one
/Kvarnis
[Edited by Mr J - 9/19/2002 6:56:07 PM]
high rpm's it's just keeps climbing..but haven't tried to set it over 1.3bar yet...but usually have ~1.33bar @redline..
Maybe just the link that overboost
JB were did you get the catch tank from..I think I will be needing one
/Kvarnis
[Edited by Mr J - 9/19/2002 6:56:07 PM]
#97
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91 % (max) or Dawes. It is the wastegate that cracks open - proved this by wiring it shut and there was alarming top end boost. Really need a 1.4 bar actuator I think.
Theo, I am certainly not a spanner monkey. Took the undertray off and get a sheet of 1.5mm thick aluminium, sprayed it black, drilled some holes and used some felt pads to stop vibes. It leaves a gap at the turbo side to provide some cooling.
Catch tank from JW Racing - arrives tomorrow. Will fit and then start advancing the ignition and tightening this actuator Looks like I will be able to advance it a lot since I could happily use the settings I previously had for 1.5 bar without a hint of a tinkle. The combo of the catch can, freer intake and FMIC should be nice for timing.
[Edited by john banks - 9/19/2002 7:32:18 PM]
Theo, I am certainly not a spanner monkey. Took the undertray off and get a sheet of 1.5mm thick aluminium, sprayed it black, drilled some holes and used some felt pads to stop vibes. It leaves a gap at the turbo side to provide some cooling.
Catch tank from JW Racing - arrives tomorrow. Will fit and then start advancing the ignition and tightening this actuator Looks like I will be able to advance it a lot since I could happily use the settings I previously had for 1.5 bar without a hint of a tinkle. The combo of the catch can, freer intake and FMIC should be nice for timing.
[Edited by john banks - 9/19/2002 7:32:18 PM]
#98
Blocking the scoop ?
Can we have some 'clever' people give some reasons please, I just thought more cooling the better, but I can relate to poss pressure versus rad and fmic air flow...any real thoughts ?
I can add "air under the car" to my list of reasons (excuses) why a little Honda done me today
Can we have some 'clever' people give some reasons please, I just thought more cooling the better, but I can relate to poss pressure versus rad and fmic air flow...any real thoughts ?
I can add "air under the car" to my list of reasons (excuses) why a little Honda done me today
#103
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MD
The clever people are on i-club.com They have tested this and achieved lower charge temps and lower coolant temps especially during track use. I've blocked mine and I don't even have a FMIC
The clever people are on i-club.com They have tested this and achieved lower charge temps and lower coolant temps especially during track use. I've blocked mine and I don't even have a FMIC
#106
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Andy what were the results of blocking off the scoob. Reasons etc.
John what are APS' reasons for blocking off the scoop.
Theo, dead easy as John says, use the original undertray off the scoop as a template for drill holes etc.
I think i have now cured the knocking pipe. Re-tapped the screw hole and used a longer bolt, one off the turbo heatshield(they always come in handy), and its now pretty tight.
No chafing on pipes either. I have now figured out where you meant by your drawing. I have about 0.5cm clearance around this area. Will keep checking though.
Steven
John what are APS' reasons for blocking off the scoop.
Theo, dead easy as John says, use the original undertray off the scoop as a template for drill holes etc.
I think i have now cured the knocking pipe. Re-tapped the screw hole and used a longer bolt, one off the turbo heatshield(they always come in handy), and its now pretty tight.
No chafing on pipes either. I have now figured out where you meant by your drawing. I have about 0.5cm clearance around this area. Will keep checking though.
Steven
#108
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Throttle response???
Well its a bit like having a TD05 as opposed to TD04, but not quite. I am still running pretty much standard compared to john.
Bang your foot down below 2500 and wait for the kick at 2800. Above 2800, say 3500 in 5th pout your foot door and it pulls so smoothly, only occasionaly a small amount of overboost.
Well its a bit like having a TD05 as opposed to TD04, but not quite. I am still running pretty much standard compared to john.
Bang your foot down below 2500 and wait for the kick at 2800. Above 2800, say 3500 in 5th pout your foot door and it pulls so smoothly, only occasionaly a small amount of overboost.
#109
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Throttle response does not seem obviously worse to me. But I have been fixing exhaust leaks so that might be improving things too.
Catch can tomorrow and raising top end boost to about 1.3 bar. If it blows up I have a Fiat Panda for a week in Greece with about 10% of the power of the Scooby. 550s after I get back from holidays should hopefully get the anticipated 100% injector duty cycle at the top down to 80%.
Catch can tomorrow and raising top end boost to about 1.3 bar. If it blows up I have a Fiat Panda for a week in Greece with about 10% of the power of the Scooby. 550s after I get back from holidays should hopefully get the anticipated 100% injector duty cycle at the top down to 80%.
#110
Posted on i-club :
J, why don't you get a big T3/T4 instead of the IHI hybrid turbo to get better 1/4 mile times , u used to talk about trackdays, and now you are talking about "trapspeeds" ? ..... probably later you will also refer "going to the track" as going to the drag track like on i-club.
[Edited by carlos_hiraoka - 9/19/2002 10:28:36 PM]
Hi lads!
I'm deep into 12's in my old school turbo (~3000 lbs with me in it), without NAWS.
VF23 @ 1,4 bar
Link
HKS FMIC
Walbro pump
iON Performance 4-1 header (wicked stuff Jack! )
Scoobysport DP, Blitz Nürspec
STi engine/tranny mounts
Ceramic 4-paddle clutch
12,726@110.73
The trapspeed tells that I'm either careful or just a crap driver. The car has potential for mid 12 runs as it is now.
/J
I'm deep into 12's in my old school turbo (~3000 lbs with me in it), without NAWS.
VF23 @ 1,4 bar
Link
HKS FMIC
Walbro pump
iON Performance 4-1 header (wicked stuff Jack! )
Scoobysport DP, Blitz Nürspec
STi engine/tranny mounts
Ceramic 4-paddle clutch
12,726@110.73
The trapspeed tells that I'm either careful or just a crap driver. The car has potential for mid 12 runs as it is now.
/J
[Edited by carlos_hiraoka - 9/19/2002 10:28:36 PM]
#111
P20, what are you using to control boost? is it all ecu and no evc ? (if you know what I mean)
AndyF, I-club...bin there
What about the blocked off scoop causing a 'wind sail' effect...no flow through must mean it will slow down (even more) my car ????
I thought you have chargecooler anyway
AndyF, I-club...bin there
What about the blocked off scoop causing a 'wind sail' effect...no flow through must mean it will slow down (even more) my car ????
I thought you have chargecooler anyway
#112
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I have no cooler at the moment still building my FMIC
Yea I wondered about the drag issue ??? The i-club boys seem to think it's quicker overall to block it, better still a reverse scoop like they have on the front of the bonnet (hood )of the WRC's
OR - Best plan yet route the air to your intake filter for some RAM effect ??
Yea I wondered about the drag issue ??? The i-club boys seem to think it's quicker overall to block it, better still a reverse scoop like they have on the front of the bonnet (hood )of the WRC's
OR - Best plan yet route the air to your intake filter for some RAM effect ??
#113
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MD - still standard ecu to control everything.
Andy - i was wondering wether this was feasable to rout air from the scoop to the airfilter. Will see if its possilbe, could be too much piping in the way now!
Andy - i was wondering wether this was feasable to rout air from the scoop to the airfilter. Will see if its possilbe, could be too much piping in the way now!
#116
Christian
You are right, Harvey did do some tests and found that inlet temp rocketed, don't do it!
I'll speak to him later and see if I can get more details.
Jamie
www.j-w-racing.com
You are right, Harvey did do some tests and found that inlet temp rocketed, don't do it!
I'll speak to him later and see if I can get more details.
Jamie
www.j-w-racing.com
#117
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Cheers Jamie, thought thats what i heared him say to Mark at Elvington. So why have APS told John to blank it off????
ps folks, for your amusement i have posted the perils i went through last night whilst sorting the knocking. its in scooby general under Word of warning. No doubt you will all now **** yourselves with laughter and tell me i should get my garage finished.
steven
ps folks, for your amusement i have posted the perils i went through last night whilst sorting the knocking. its in scooby general under Word of warning. No doubt you will all now **** yourselves with laughter and tell me i should get my garage finished.
steven
#120
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Mine was certainly not lacking performance today with it blocked off, but I had just tightened the actuator to 1.35 bar which just allowed same at 7000 RPM. Really need those 550s now. When I say blocked off I did leave a vent over the turbo area. It is really such a big gaping hole and if a scumbag looked through the scoop they would be able to see the alarm.
[Edited by john banks - 9/20/2002 9:01:19 PM]
[Edited by john banks - 9/20/2002 9:01:19 PM]