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Brake upgrade project (AP Racing 6 pots)

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Old Aug 13, 2002 | 10:24 PM
  #31  
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Let's see if we can make this thread the Wheels, Tyres & Brakes equivilant of Drivetrain's FMIC project.
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Old Aug 13, 2002 | 10:47 PM
  #32  
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Andy,

No prob's mate glad you got what you wanted . . . git

Have you sorted any slicks yet ?

rich
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Old Aug 15, 2002 | 06:43 PM
  #33  
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no slicks yet rich.
project slowed somewhat now while I resusitate the wallet.
another grand had to be forked out this week for insurance ready for Monday
Booked Monday off work, car booked in at Powerstation.
engine mods are next, now suspension and brakes sorted.
want to do a power run before I touch the motor so I can tell if it's all been money well spent.
Even before I start that I'm going to need to know what is going on under the bonnet. I have no extra gauges or anything yet.
Things on my mind first are Defi pod and gauges, AFR meter of some sort, whose I dont know !
have looked at "Link" hardware but way too intrusive and bulky.
when "information" in car is done It will be out with the die grinder to match up all the exhaust and intake connections.
I also intend to mod the throttle body as it seemed to have favourable reports from the "i-club" thread.
and that's just the start
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Old Aug 15, 2002 | 08:54 PM
  #34  
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Might be worth having a look at the ECU TEK3 solution but best to let the wallet take a breather . . .

I only wanted one set of slicks but it looks like I will have TWO !!! First Track day was odd in some respects but I did enjoy it. I suppose I thought it would be faster . . . my car that is. However some of the cars were out of this world the 340R was unbelievable and a 996 turbo driven by the Porsche driver to name just two which I had passenger laps in.

rich
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Old Oct 8, 2002 | 07:27 PM
  #35  
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EDIT : irrelevant post and some photo's I wanted to remove.


Andy



[Edited by Fuzz - 11/10/2003 7:45:19 PM]
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Old Oct 8, 2002 | 09:04 PM
  #36  
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I ballsed up a bit, got distracted by otheres talking of bedding them in, ended up showing the finished product before i did the fitting procedure.
Edited now tho, so go back a few posts and you'll see how it went.
some are still a little out of sequence but what the hell, you get the idea (brake hose, now ya see it, now ya don't )

Edit: cos I can't spell distacted

[Edited by Fuzz - 8/10/2002 9:21:03 PM]
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Old Mar 25, 2003 | 07:30 AM
  #37  
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.
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Old Mar 25, 2003 | 04:34 PM
  #38  
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cheers Steve.

Andy
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Old Mar 26, 2003 | 11:40 AM
  #39  
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Fuzz,

I am a little lost, maybe you can put me back on track... Is this "project" simply the fitting of a regular AP brake kit, purchased from scoobysport, to your car? I.E. this is basically an additional set of fitting instructions for a standard commercial kit?

Moray
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Old Mar 26, 2003 | 05:32 PM
  #40  
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Smart ****

Ahh! but it does give the incentive (sp?) for people who have not already bought the kit (and therefore not seen the instructions) to see actually how easy (for me anyway) it is to fit.


Andy

[Edited by Fuzz - 3/26/2003 5:33:46 PM]
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 11:06 AM
  #41  
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LOL.

Well, if it is just rehashed fitting instructions on a commercial kit, then maybe Brakes and whatever would be the most appropriate location for it?

Or maybe I should borrow a digital camera and start a series of project threads here myself... starting with "Lubrication system maintenance project (Oil and Filter change)" and "Air filtration efficiency improvement project (Air filter change)" and "Power to weight ratio project (Emptying rubbish from ashtrays)"

Moray
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 11:31 AM
  #42  
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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You bored Moray?

David
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 06:31 PM
  #43  
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No pleasing some people...



Andy
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Old Jun 11, 2003 | 03:09 AM
  #44  
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Just a quick question... if the caliper were not exactly centered (but still parallel) would not the hydaulics compensate for a slight difference?

It should not affect performance since many cars the brakes wear a bit unevenly and they still perform to spec.

By the by, here in the US, we pay for the brakes you took off as an upgrade! We get floating calipers (two pot from, single rear) and 16" wheels! Odd place to save money!
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Old Jun 11, 2003 | 06:41 PM
  #45  
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the hydraulics would indeed compensate for a "slight" difference, though it is only a slight differance too, the shims supplied were 1.0mm thick IIRC and too be tat far out would cause one of the pads to bind, as the gap to slide the new pads in is minimal to say the least.
It wasn't until I had skimmed the shims to 0.5mm, when I realised I could loosen the bracket bolts and move the assembly by more than this much

Andy
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Old Jun 11, 2003 | 09:46 PM
  #46  
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thanks andy,

it looks like some of the bolts are missing in your pics thats why I asked, have not looked at mine closely yet so perhaps there is a reason.

my disc and bells did not come assembled.

edit to add since looking at page 1 again.

I think it's the way the light is catching them before you run out and count the bell bolts

[Edited by T-uk - 11/6/2003 10:10:13 PM]
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Old Oct 11, 2003 | 07:55 PM
  #47  
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minted m8

you even managed to show me that you left those strange spring things , on the inside vanes

mine are all fitted , just need bled.

I did not put washers on the bell side, I tried it but decided the bolts are too short.

[Edited by T-uk - 11/10/2003 7:59:47 PM]
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 05:49 PM
  #48  
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mr clutchkiller ,

need to pick your brains. about to fit some of these

do you put loctite on every thread , inc the disc to bell or is it just for the caliper mounting bolts?
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Old Nov 6, 2003 | 06:51 PM
  #49  
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I only used it on the caliper to mounting bracket.

My bells and discs were already together, not come undone yet..

Andy

Dr Smoke deClutch... reviving said dead clutch as we speak

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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 02:56 PM
  #50  
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Question

here is a few quick questions for you/anyone else.

in the middle of assembling discs and bells at the moment.

bolting the bells to disc and on the AP site it shows,
bolt -> bell -> disc -> washer -> nut.

my kit has double washers supplied , so should I,
bolt -> washer -> bell -> disc -> washer -> nut.

can't really see it making a difference but given that they are supplied thought I'd ask.

also, on the disc at the hub/bell side of the vanes , there seems to be a wire sort of retaining spring thing , going through a few vanes. both discs have this but I don't have a clue what it's for .they look like they are supposed to be there but it could also be something left over from manufacturing , do I pull them off or just leave them on?.
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 04:56 PM
  #51  
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For T-uk as requested:

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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 05:01 PM
  #52  
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John, I left mines on as I didnt have the fogiest what it was for

Is it some kind of weight or something?
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Old Nov 8, 2003 | 06:55 PM
  #53  
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cheers scott,

they do not look like they will come off in use , so I will just leave them on too.
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 12:39 AM
  #54  
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I assume it would be for balanciing purposes, although I can't remember mine having any.

Will also look at spring washer combo tomorrow for you.


Andy
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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 10:47 PM
  #55  
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Oopps bollox, forgot

Try again, tomorrow

Andy
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 01:09 AM
  #56  
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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post 12:00 bump
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 10:11 AM
  #57  
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not that fecking early...

maybe after 4.pm...

I fecking hate work.


Andy
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 05:10 PM
  #58  
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From: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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bump
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 07:11 PM
  #59  
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christ... I'll do it now

before I forget again
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Old Nov 10, 2003 | 07:33 PM
  #60  
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right,

On the inside we have...
Looks to me like just one flat washer.


And on the outside we have..
What looks like one spring washer under the cap screw head.


That ok ?


Andy
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