Alberick

Hmmm I would be worried a little if the whole thing moves as it gets all the vibrations of the engine??

Anyway if you're happy with it and it works, then it's ok...

ScoobyJawa

Yeah - see what your getting at. I would still say that its unlikely to pick up much more vibration than the standard setup. Though the OEM has "rubber" piping with flex bits, I found it to hardly flex at all, eg not soft enough to be a buffer for the MAF but bendy enough to move with the engine - hmm I think that makes sense but hey!

Well - going on what others have said re the K&N it would seem to have the best record so far with MY99+ MAF's so the setup must work pretty well.........

Anyway - better go and find some sheet stainless or something Got me a box/sheild to make up

Practos

iTrader: (2)

if 300euro seems alot you can always make your own for ~20euro:
Not as nice looking as Alberick's but I made it in few hours and the shield kan take 800C.





/Henrik

ScoobyJawa

Still not convinced its getting enough cold air, gonna try replacing the factory airbox and using with the cold air pipe to see if its any better - be interesting to know once and for all whether the induction makes a difference......

If I do replace the stock airbox will it be ok to connect the cold air pipe directly to it or should I leave a little gap?

Alberick

Scoobyjawa,

I think with some kind of shield around your induction it will be ok, however, the second pipe (the one taking air from the front, not the one that comes from the front indicator) looks omehow dangerous, did you try taking a water hoes to see if no water comes into the induction. I think that's very important or else you could remove this pipe when it's raining and from what I understand it's raining very often in the UK, just as here in Luxembourg...

ScoobyJawa

Alberick,

I'm coming round to thinking that myself - I my also fit a mini scoop but thats a last resort. I'm hoping to source some sheet metal and design my own airbox similar to the carbon fibre one above.
I have been thinking that about the front one, not raining at the moment here but as you say it does often!!! Thats why I put the kink in it and a couple of drain holes but I'll most likely remove it......

cheers!

Alberick

Scoobyjawa,

indeed if i were you i would remove the aluminium pipe you put in front of the car, the other is ok as i made the "water" test with mine, and no mater how much water i put in there it will never come up until where the induction sits. (I used a water hose with a "shower" spary type gun and turned it up on maximum pressure).

The pipe in front seems likely to take in lots of water if you overtake a truck on the motorway for example when it's heavily raining...

Anyway let us all know when you have your box ready..

caz1562

BTW - Halfords flexi 55mm ducting hose is £3.99, 60mm £4.29

ScoobyJawa

The 60mm is what I used for the front pipe - this is waaaay too small to be an effective cold air feed pipe, hence why I went a bought the Green induction hosing as its about 75mm and much better quality.

Just gotta get some metal now Boss's brother might be sorting me out

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

I like your thinking but....

....all this effort for 2 degrees!!!

I nearly went down this route until I actually measured the temp differences.

My conclusion was that the best gains were from filtration and flow rate mods (and even then these gains weren't huge).

F

ScoobyJawa

Makes me feel better anyway

I think the box will make more of a difference, feeling the air around the filter after a run it is VERY hot which cannot help.........

Floyd

iTrader: (9)

Of course when you feel the air around you air box it will feel hot, that's because you are stationary. At anything more than 10mph though and all that hot air will be replaced by the cold air from the front of the car. There will be some warming from the engine and that's where the extra 2 degrees over ambient comes from.

Subaru try to do a cold air feed themselves with that collector behind the headlamp. They are also very carefull to avoid intake of water. What they are not so good at is flow and filtration IMHO.

F

BAH

Thought i would reserect this old thread with my effort, this is just a test to see how it works then i will make a steel tube version that can be used with an airbox or Induction kit.

Remove the resonator from the inner wing



Install 100mm aluminum flexible ducting (Cooker Hood Style) into iner wing feeding one end through the smaller of the two holes left by the resonator. Fasten in the duct with tie wraps



Feed some of the pipe through the hole just enough to be able to trim of the excess and shape to the size of the origonal hole.



Feed the duct down to the intake holes in the front bumper and bend around the intake to make a snug fit.Make some small holes in the duct just inside the bumper to let water drain.



Once the duct is trimmed to the size of the existing hole, you can add a piece of flexible hose to direct the air flow or leave open.



Front view of the intake.



As i said just experimenting, any comments welcome.








[Edited by BAH - 8/14/2003 12:25:51 PM]

Alberick

nice one, this exactly what I did...I used a MSgofast induction pipe and modified it slightly to suit my needs.

I tried it with a 100 mm but is somewhat too big. 90 mm was a better fit through the hole as the original size is also 90 (I think)

Pavlo

I think adding a sheild to partially box in the filter would help too.

Paul