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Thanks, that is extremely helpful! Beautiful car by the way!!
I've just ordered some springs from Peter Cambridge (based on the 2004 Prodrive STI springs) with a 30mm drop at the front and 10mm at the rear. I will install them with Feal Fixed Perch Struts. Will post photos when it's done (springs will take 3-4 weeks to arrive).
Thanks, that is extremely helpful! Beautiful car by the way!!
I've just ordered some springs from Peter Cambridge (based on the 2004 Prodrive STI springs) with a 30mm drop at the front and 10mm at the rear. I will install them with Feal Fixed Perch Struts. Will post photos when it's done (springs will take 3-4 weeks to arrive).
Good question... The Feal come with 50mm bump stops and they seem very hard. Peter suggested sourcing some KYB bump stops from a WRX and fitting them with some rubber hosing to match the smaller shaft of the Feals (they're only 20mm, I believe the WRX are 22mm).
The one with the red spring is an oem rear strut.
The one with the yellow spring is a Feal rear strut.
Both those struts are at their full extension or full droop.
Under the right set of circumstances, the Feal strut will not allow the tyre to reach the road surface.
Whereas the oem strut would still be providing grip/traction/braking.
I am on OE KYB dampers and OE springs, 2005 Blobeye STI Widetrack, 110'000 miles.
I have Whiteline Offset Front Top Mounts and ALK fitted. Perhaps this is causing my front to sit ~15mm lower than standard?
Struts that should have been changed at 50k, to maintain optimum performance, 17 year old, sagged, springs and compressed top mounts?
After 30miles Rich's front ride height is 365mm. As the stiction wears off his inverted front struts, I'd expect 355-360mm. Hence the importance of using the correct bump stops.
Often hear people wondering why their new struts, top mounts and lowering springs ride the same as, or higher, than their old set-up.
The one with the red spring is an oem rear strut.
The one with the yellow spring is is a Feal rear strut.
Both those struts are at their full extension or full droop.
Under the right set of circumstances, the Feal strut will not allow the tyre to reach the road surface.
Whereas the oem strut would still be providing grip/traction/braking.
OK, I understand what you mean now. Could be a bit tricky under hard driving on bumpy, undulating roads.
Struts that should have been changed at 50k, to maintain optimum performance, 17 year old, sagged, springs and compressed top mounts?
After 30miles Rich's front ride height is 365mm. As the stiction wears off his inverted front struts, I'd expect 355-360mm. Hence the importance of using the correct bump stops.
Often hear people wondering why their new struts, top mounts and lowering springs ride the same as, or higher, than their old set-up.
Clear, thanks. Indeed, my dampers are well passed their best at this point.
The rear struts are not listed as camber adjustable. However, there is play in the rear bolt holes to even out the rear camber. Check with the chosen alignment centre that they are happy to utilise this adjustment, if so, it's a good sign, if not, keep looking.
As a starting point, you can put the rear suspension into full droop, then tighten the rear bolts, this will initially minimise the rear camber - further prying and pushing for adjustment, before final torque.
It is sad how many times I hear the front camber can't be adjusted or equalised - this is usually due to the alignment tech not slacking off the lower front bolt, before trying to rotate the top adjustment camber bolt.
Well if it is, I haven’t noticed it. You’d have thought I would have, but then again, sometimes you can’t see the wood for the trees! Think I best go and check 👍🏻
The rear struts are not listed as camber adjustable. However, there is play in the rear bolt holes to even out the rear camber. Check with the chosen alignment centre that they are happy to utilise this adjustment, if so, it's a good sign, if not, keep looking.
As a starting point, you can put the rear suspension into full droop, then tighten the rear bolts, this will initially minimise the rear camber - further prying and pushing for adjustment, before final torque.
It is sad how many times I hear the front camber can't be adjusted or equalised - this is usually due to the alignment tech not slacking off the lower front bolt, before trying to rotate the top adjustment camber bolt.
KYB after-market front struts for 114.3mm pcd Impreza hawkeye STI (Some late model blobeye STI were also 114.3mm pcd).
Contact: https://www.spring-loaded.co.uk/
Thought I’d just report back around 2-3 months after replacing my front struts/springs. Ive now covered around 400 miles on them and they seem to have dropped further and look to be around 359mm from the top of the front arch to the centre of the wheel/hub.
I'm assuming that I should now be thinking about putting it in for a four wheel alignment. The odd thing is that the car is running arrow straight and the turn in is sharp, direct and just the way I like it. Do ppl still think I need to get the 4 wheel alignment done regardless of this? Thoughts appreciated? 2pot any thoughts?
If you don't mind, potentially, two trips for alignment? You could ask them for a print out of what you have now and post it here.
I'd be amazed if you have equal camber and toe settings though - after a front suspension change.
Thought I’d just report back around 2-3 months after replacing my front struts/springs. Ive now covered around 400 miles on them and they seem to have dropped further and look to be around 359mm from the top of the front arch to the centre of the wheel/hub.
I'm assuming that I should now be thinking about putting it in for a four wheel alignment. The odd thing is that the car is running arrow straight and the turn in is sharp, direct and just the way I like it. Do ppl still think I need to get the 4 wheel alignment done regardless of this? Thoughts appreciated? 2pot any thoughts?
Thanks for the update, more photos of how the car looks please!!
If you don't mind, potentially, two trips for alignment? You could ask them for a print out of what you have now and post it here.
I'd be amazed if you have equal camber and toe settings though - after a front suspension change.
Mine was miles out after replacing front and rear struts. Took it for an alignment, but they could only adjust the fronts as the rear camber bolt was seized, so I'm going to replace the rear lateral arms and get it redone. Prior to getting the front done they were both around +1.2. The best they could get was -0.2. This is on OEM widetrack STi struts and topmounts.
Mine was miles out after replacing front and rear struts. Took it for an alignment, but they could only adjust the fronts as the rear camber bolt was seized, so I'm going to replace the rear lateral arms and get it redone. Prior to getting the front done they were both around +1.2. The best they could get was -0.2. This is on OEM widetrack STi struts and topmounts.
There is something horribly amiss with your front camber. Did they slack the lower bolt, before rotating the top camber bolt? Is negative 0.2 in degrees? As opposed to degrees and minutes? Got the print out?
There is something horribly amiss with your front camber. Did they slack the lower bolt, before rotating the top camber bolt? Is negative 0.2 in degrees? As opposed to degrees and minutes? Got the print out?
yep stock struts and group n top mounts.
Cant comment on the lower bolt but they used this to measure
