It was a while ago but yeah I think a classic scoop and I think either with no undertray or with a Car Davey one.

low to mid range, no not a huge difference but top end it definitely hit harder.

 

Were you on 440cc? With or without fuel reg?

 

I was on Nismo 555's with a fuel lab FPR. Only because i'd already had them fitted for a previous setup that i didnt like because it felt laggy.

 

Was it a case that helped you to hit good numbers do you think?
What torque did it put out?

 

I'm not sure if I could absolutely say it helped but it certainly didn't hinder it. With those injectors and FPR I was able to get 395hp on the other setup with an SC38 and a HDI FMIC.

Sorry i dont still have the printouts for the torque, this was a good 6 if not more years ago, i've sold that car on since then.

 

Wouldn't a twin scroll turbo help with early spool and still reach the BHP goals that you're after?

 

Not worth the extra effort and expenditure. You'll need new twin scroll headers, twin scroll sump at the very least. You'll lose the subaru burble noise and ultimately won't make more power than a similarly sized single scroll turbo. Stick with cheap single scroll like VF35 or even better the VF34 which would be my option as its roller bearing and should scroll better. Get a billet wheel and job done.

 

+1 to all of the above.

I'd also put the money into a set of ported headers and "harvey" upppipe from AS Performance. That'll match/outspool the TS equivalent without loss of burble.

 

Well I've since 99% decided to go with the hyrbid rebuild, so a vf48 cartridge in my machined out vf24 housing to suit.

Just have to drop it off and have a quick final chat to put the mind at ease.

He has said that a billet wheel doesn't always mean better, so im not sure if thats something to be concerned about or not.

 

Who is rebuilding the turbo for you?

Billet wheel can make a big difference.

 

+1

But having progressed in stages from TD04 hybrid, SC36, to SC38, based on my experience, I'd just go straight for the SC38 plus headers and pipe.

The SC38 is really tuning-flexible.

Over time I've taken mine from 325 bhp to 405 bhp - on a TMIC and with a cat fitted - by gradually upgrading via supporting mods (mapping, 3" exhaust, Induction, CAIK, bigger TMIC, MAF-less, etc.)

In terms of driveability, my SC38 out-spools the smaller turbos from 3,250 rpm onwards and has hit 300 lbs ft at or around 3,500 rpm in every configuration that I have run.

I found it to be a really good turbo for starting low and gradually building on.

 

Sounds like a good option. We can't give up the Subaru burble now can we!

 

Lets not forget that the op has an older car that has an older 5 speed gearbox and drivetrain. Personally, even the SC38 is overkill unless the OP will be spending vast amounts of money upgrading the gearbox, clutch, brakes etc on the car too. My opinion would be to set a realistic target for the spec of the rest of the car at it's current level. Fair enough if all the other parts get upgraded at a later date, but if that's the case and he's throwing thousands into it later then upgrading the turbo again will be no big deal.

 

Yes, BPR, it's true that he's running a weaker 'box is than ideal.

But the OP specifically asked for a turbo that would serve for a range from 330 to 400.

My SC38 has completely straddled that range with staged modifications to engine, brakes, drivetrain and ECU made over 6 years - and with excellent road driveability all the way.

The SC38 is a turbo that can cope with those of us that want to (or have to) do our mods in installments as and when the time and / or cash is right.

Hence my recommendation.

And it's torque that kills the 5-speed, not power. When I first bolted on the '38, the 307 lbs. ft peak torque it produced didn't overly bother my 5-speed box at that level.
It did later though, as the torque went up!

The key is getting the (right) further upgrades in the right order.