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You could do with logging a power run,4th gear if you can,get it to under 2k rpm then WOT and keep it planted upto 7k,use 3rd gear if you have too.
Before you do,reset the ecu,make sure knock control table is clear and the 22 error cleared.
also log the cyclical knock count.
Your 1st log the IAM is 16 and the 2nd log it's down at 0,ESL will pill boost at an IAM of below 2.
I would think it's faulty sensor tbh.
I noticed the IAM reset is set to 16 ( a bit lazy but it has a purpose ) but i dont like setting it to default to 16 as you dont actually know if it should be at 16 ( if that makes sense ) as maybe in this scenario.
Just thinking,As load is calculated by the map sensor when mafless could it be a leak around that sensor,or a faulty sensor? Causing the load to change so much?
Are you running oem map sensor?
Pretty sure load should rise as the boost does.
The more parameters you log the slower the sample rate(Not sure by how much),I wouldn't bother logging lambda and fuel correction stuff while you're searching for this fault.
Load should rise as boost increases but can drop as boost increase steadies out , it shouldnt fluctuate but it can.
Load is all down to air flow/Intake into the engine and how well the engine is working,
If engine load is fluctuating and airflow is not restricted the scaling could be wrong
There is definately something fooked as your knock counter is constantly increases even when just idling then resetting and increasing, my counter takes ages to go up, and i mean many many a run.
Time stamp 488735 is when you give it ful lthrottle on the 1st run and then 1000 rpm later iam goes to 8 then 0 ( im not surprised with all those knock counts )
Same on the 2nd run, full throttle, around 1000 rpm later iam goes no chance , 8 then 0 lol
on your esl software, on the iam threshold, change the value from 16 to 8, do a reset and see what your iam does on a full throttle run again
All them knock events are either a faulty sensor(did you say this is a new sensor and genuine?) or something giving false knock,is your engine/gearbox/running gear noisy? I suppose you could relocate the knock sensor to rule it out? Ideally you want some detcans on and an AFR gauge to make sure it's not detting,but as Rig says it's showing knock even on idle.
Strange things iv'e seen on your map is as Rig said your injector scale is set to your 440's but i suppose this has being compensated for in the fuel map by your tuner.
Min WG table is all set to 0 ,not saying this is wrong but strange to me(not a tuner lol)
And finally your figures in your MAP sensor are different to mine(also mafless),your figure in MAP sensor baro SSM is set to 20572.0,mine is as per manual and the 97/98 MAP sensor 12380.0,again this might not matter but is strange that this has been changed.
Last edited by ossett2k2; 20 May 2019 at 10:00 PM.
It was Andy Carr who mapped it - and ive no idea about fuel trims - ive been resetting the car loads and only started logging this weekend so kinda lost with it all ahah. I can only log it with my bro's laptop as i dont have one so relying on him to keep coming round to mine - i cant have it on all the time unfortunately.
An yeh, if that cyclic knock count going up is ''knock'' it was doing it on the driveway on idle. it was a brand new OEM sensor off ICP. I had the harness rewired right through too.. although i dont think he's used a shielded cable which is a bit annoying.
Going to try relocating the sensor and/or retapping the hole as im sure the threads in it arent great... - any suggestions?
Also will be doing vac checks at the weekend when i have time - im glad im slowly getting somewhere with the diagnosis...
Last edited by Ash Webster; 21 May 2019 at 11:32 AM.
Ok, the fuel trims are just another table within the software like the knock control table, its under the fuel afr table option in the left hand column, just interssted to see what its adding/pulling, as a test id disconnected the knock sensor plug itself and do a reset and see what it logs as it wont be getting any feed back from the sensor, id also change the IAM after reset to 8
if the knock sensor has been re-wired without shielded cable then you could still be chasing your tale, get the wiring done properly first then continue your fault finding. Ideally you'll need some det cans or someone with det cans to have a listen when your on a pull to determine if it's actual engine knock setting it off or something else.
the knock error ive had on and off for years so it cant be blamed on the map/mapper - its only now ive got the software i can see its occuring.
before i refurbed the car the CEL used to come on once every month or so. then i'd turn off the car and turn it on and it would go away so i just ignored it.
then it sat in a garage for 2 ish years (maybe more) before being rolled out again.
I wish there was someone (a garage etc) round here i could just give the car to and get them to sort it but now scoobytek have gone theres nothing... and its such a hard problem to diagnose since the number of possibilities is huge,,,
so if its wired without shielding you may still be picking something up at the ECU or possibly the ECU is at fault. Try unpinning your new wire at the ECU connector and see if the result is the same - next step will be replacement ECU to put your ESL board in (after confirming voltage and earths at the ECU are good).
Auto electrician should of sorted this,check wiring at the ecu including the grounds.
Pinout here if you don't already have it.
Not the clearest pic so you might want to go into the site and download the pdf
Last edited by ossett2k2; 21 May 2019 at 06:44 PM.
look at the wiring diagram posted here ESL 978 pinout, work out which pin you've got something added too and see what it actually is (is this the knock sensor or the knock sensor shield) - maybe find a better auto spark as well for the next one and have them de-pin the old wire and pin in properly the new wire.
I feel your pain Ash
ive also got a boost issue...not as bad as yours though..
mine boosted to 1.2 bar now will only hit 1 bar..not much I know but fuel consumption has gone through the roof..
ive done a fault read....nothing,cleaned out the bcs,still the same,systematically replaced vacuum hoses etc..still the same.
replaced the knock sensor all to no avail...
to me that kinda looks like B136 pin #4 which is indeed the knock sensor signal. However if you've ran a fresh wire you shouldn't have the old wire still connected, the new wire should be properly crimped and pinned directly into the the ECU with the shielding properly terminated. If the old wire is grounding out somewhere then you'll get all kinds of havoc going on.
19 May 2019, 10:28 PM
