The Something & Nothing Stealth Blobeye STI Thread...
#271
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Thread Starter
If you actually looked at the post you quoted you can clearly see the Whiteline links have the same diameter (M10) bolts & the old eBay links are M8 & M10.
Also the Whiteline part number: KLC32 is clearly visible on the instructions. See for yourself...
https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLrC32
Last edited by Kaosone; 01 June 2020 at 07:57 AM.
#272
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
The Whiteline catalogue is wrong though. Trust me, I have 2 wagons and replaced the drop links several times.
You need these ones for the saloon with alloy arms.
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
Not the ones you have which are for wagons with steel arms. The ARBs are also different.
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
You need these ones for the saloon with alloy arms.
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
Not the ones you have which are for wagons with steel arms. The ARBs are also different.
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
#273
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
So yesterday was eventful, family day out to Surrey rolling road...
Which ended up like this:
Can't complain about the figures seeing as the car is still basically standard PPP but I was hoping the remap would bring the power in earlier. It hangs on hard in the top end but there's no gains in the 1st half of the rev range.
I guess that's as good as it gets with a sports cat in & while it probably doesn't sap power at this level a decat would improve spool. As would a set of Harvey-Smith ported headers & a trick up-pipe.
Hmmmmm........
Which ended up like this:
Can't complain about the figures seeing as the car is still basically standard PPP but I was hoping the remap would bring the power in earlier. It hangs on hard in the top end but there's no gains in the 1st half of the rev range.
I guess that's as good as it gets with a sports cat in & while it probably doesn't sap power at this level a decat would improve spool. As would a set of Harvey-Smith ported headers & a trick up-pipe.
Hmmmmm........
#274
Scooby Regular
The Whiteline catalogue is wrong though. Trust me, I have 2 wagons and replaced the drop links several times.
You need these ones for the saloon with alloy arms.
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
Not the ones you have which are for wagons with steel arms. The ARBs are also different.
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
You need these ones for the saloon with alloy arms.
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
Not the ones you have which are for wagons with steel arms. The ARBs are also different.
https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/par...y=&searchPart=
However I'd personally stay with OEM,ball joint type or as all the whiteline kits show, the whiteline ball joint version KLC139
Last edited by Don Clark; 05 June 2020 at 05:34 PM.
#276
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Last edited by Kaosone; 05 June 2020 at 08:52 PM.
#277
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
So with time off work over Christmas & new year, lock down & shiz. I decided the stealth Blobeye needed more stealth ...
Headliner:
Interior trimmings:
Stealth Dye
Grey parcel shelf getting stealthed:
And that nasty off white headliner, now fully stealth :
Headliner:
Interior trimmings:
Stealth Dye
Grey parcel shelf getting stealthed:
And that nasty off white headliner, now fully stealth :
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#278
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Thread Starter
I bought this black fabric off eBay that may or may not be Alcantara...?
No one wants to be that guy who stealth's his interior & leaves the door cards blue ...
No one wants to be that guy who stealth's his interior & leaves the door cards blue ...
#281
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Door cards shamefully lashed back together...
And this is what a dark interior looks like, with low light through a phone camera (need more possibly Alcantara to finish the sun visors )...
Best part? I don't even notice so I guess that was the desired effect, all blends in. Job done .
And this is what a dark interior looks like, with low light through a phone camera (need more possibly Alcantara to finish the sun visors )...
Best part? I don't even notice so I guess that was the desired effect, all blends in. Job done .
Last edited by Kaosone; 10 January 2021 at 05:16 PM.
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#282
Scooby Regular
How did the headliner take the dye? I want to do the manky ex smokers grey headliner in my Bugeye black to match the flocking of the dash and pillar trims and dye would be so much cheaper and easier than flocking the whole thing.
#283
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
It went on easy, I just put the dye in a spray bottle & cracked on. The plastic backing of the headliner is like a thin fibreglass & the material itself is also very thin (#SubaruLife) so if you go too heavy with the dye it just runs off & pools
I've seen people Alcantara lining their headliners & I just figured that would be way to much aggro & this was a lot more straightforward. At one point I wondered why I didn't just spray paint it, but that's rough even by my standards
This is the dye I used:
#286
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thanks, I like it
A lot easier than they went back together
There are 3 screws around the handle & the rest of the panel is glued with plastic rivets. Once you drill / cut the rivets they're basically ****ed as they're cheap **** moldings on the inner piece. I was going to try some short self tapping screws into what was left of the moldings but in the end I didn't bother & just attempted to stick them back together with a £6 comedy glue got off Amazon.
Originally I didn't want to use double sided tape as it would space the panels out but I think that would be the best option. Then drive a few self tapping screws from behind into the area where the arm rest is to add some strength.
A lot easier than they went back together
There are 3 screws around the handle & the rest of the panel is glued with plastic rivets. Once you drill / cut the rivets they're basically ****ed as they're cheap **** moldings on the inner piece. I was going to try some short self tapping screws into what was left of the moldings but in the end I didn't bother & just attempted to stick them back together with a £6 comedy glue got off Amazon.
Originally I didn't want to use double sided tape as it would space the panels out but I think that would be the best option. Then drive a few self tapping screws from behind into the area where the arm rest is to add some strength.
Last edited by Kaosone; 15 January 2021 at 05:58 PM.
#288
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thanks, it does add a touch of poshness which it has clearly been lacking & also extra stealth.
I was looking at as S204 on eBay yesterday & for all that money you still get that cheap & nasty plastic trim
I was looking at as S204 on eBay yesterday & for all that money you still get that cheap & nasty plastic trim
Last edited by Kaosone; 15 January 2021 at 05:18 PM.
#289
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
My rear shocks have been knocking for a year or two & it eventually got so bad the car, couldn't handle weight transfer & basically the whole thing started knocking in an attempt to rattle itself to bits
Points to take from here are...
1. 17 years old & done 110k (assuming they're original) so I got my monies worth out of them
2. Upgrade time
So I ordered these, Meister R Zeta CRD's
Which are nice ...
Beauty & the Beast...
I am ashamed to admit I am more excited to get the pressure washer out & cleaning all this up, than I am currently about the actual coilovers. However I am expecting great things.
Points to take from here are...
1. 17 years old & done 110k (assuming they're original) so I got my monies worth out of them
2. Upgrade time
So I ordered these, Meister R Zeta CRD's
Which are nice ...
Beauty & the Beast...
I am ashamed to admit I am more excited to get the pressure washer out & cleaning all this up, than I am currently about the actual coilovers. However I am expecting great things.
Last edited by Kaosone; 15 January 2021 at 06:46 PM.
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#290
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Boring shot of the rear in...
Signature stainless hardware where possible...
Couldn't be arsed to get the pressure washer out. Bucket, brush & wash only ...
Signature stainless hardware where possible...
Couldn't be arsed to get the pressure washer out. Bucket, brush & wash only ...
#291
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
So with everything torqued & back in one piece, I set the damping to 8 out from softest (of 32 settings), based on feedback from here & off I went
So first up the bumpiest road I know & also one I drive most days. Didn't like it, too bouncy, car was all over the place. I added a couple of clicks of firmer damping followed by a couple more, then another three & finally I added 5 more clicks to take me up to a total of 20 clicks from the softest or 12 clicks out from the firmest setting.
So now the suspension was firm & it felt similar to how it was before, a little softer maybe but also that could be me feeling new smoother damping from a new shock. After a bit of a shakedown test, trying to feel out what was going on I found while the ride was firm, there was now quite a bit of body roll on hard corners (which was one of my first complaints about the car before I fitted the Eibach springs & Whiteline rear ARB).
It's apparent I've been trying to replicate how the car felt previously, so as I drive it more need to focus on improving how it is to get the best out of it. The first thing on the list is to stiffen the rear ARB which makes sense as I've come from a firmer spring to a softer one, so it's less effective so this will factor into the setup too.
So first up the bumpiest road I know & also one I drive most days. Didn't like it, too bouncy, car was all over the place. I added a couple of clicks of firmer damping followed by a couple more, then another three & finally I added 5 more clicks to take me up to a total of 20 clicks from the softest or 12 clicks out from the firmest setting.
So now the suspension was firm & it felt similar to how it was before, a little softer maybe but also that could be me feeling new smoother damping from a new shock. After a bit of a shakedown test, trying to feel out what was going on I found while the ride was firm, there was now quite a bit of body roll on hard corners (which was one of my first complaints about the car before I fitted the Eibach springs & Whiteline rear ARB).
It's apparent I've been trying to replicate how the car felt previously, so as I drive it more need to focus on improving how it is to get the best out of it. The first thing on the list is to stiffen the rear ARB which makes sense as I've come from a firmer spring to a softer one, so it's less effective so this will factor into the setup too.
#292
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
During one of my damping adjustment stops I measured the ride height & if I remember correctly it was 330m rear & 340mm front which is 10mm lower on the rear & 5mm lower at the front. I'll keep an eye on in case it settles more & then probably up the rear by 5mm to match the drop in the front, so the whole car is 5mm lower all round...
It does look low in the back, but this setup only requires me to adjust two struts
It'll need an alignment after the ride height is set but no rush (money)
It does look low in the back, but this setup only requires me to adjust two struts
It'll need an alignment after the ride height is set but no rush (money)
Last edited by Kaosone; 18 January 2021 at 06:44 PM.
#293
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (6)
Nice write up mate, looking good.
Interesting the balance you found with your setup. On my Foz I changed the rear ARB to a 22mm adjustable just before the shocks were fitted and all the end links to solid whiteline ones. Even on something like 8 and 10 clicks it felt totally planted and had more contact with the road than the previous setup by miles. Body roll throuigh corners was almost totally flat but without losing traction, was such a great setup.
On the new MY15 STI I have gone with the same clicks and it feels great. Admitedly I haven't pushed the car as far as the foz yet so don't know if it will highlight issues with the standard arb or not. That's next on the list to upgrade to be honest. I found the arb and endlink combo to make such a difference.
Interesting the balance you found with your setup. On my Foz I changed the rear ARB to a 22mm adjustable just before the shocks were fitted and all the end links to solid whiteline ones. Even on something like 8 and 10 clicks it felt totally planted and had more contact with the road than the previous setup by miles. Body roll throuigh corners was almost totally flat but without losing traction, was such a great setup.
On the new MY15 STI I have gone with the same clicks and it feels great. Admitedly I haven't pushed the car as far as the foz yet so don't know if it will highlight issues with the standard arb or not. That's next on the list to upgrade to be honest. I found the arb and endlink combo to make such a difference.
#294
Scooby Regular
Those Meisters do get some good reviews, I was vacillating between changing to these or getting my KW's refurbished as it's basically the same price.
I'd be interested to hear your feedback once they have settled in.
I'd be interested to hear your feedback once they have settled in.
#295
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Nice write up mate, looking good.
Interesting the balance you found with your setup. On my Foz I changed the rear ARB to a 22mm adjustable just before the shocks were fitted and all the end links to solid whiteline ones. Even on something like 8 and 10 clicks it felt totally planted and had more contact with the road than the previous setup by miles. Body roll through corners was almost totally flat but without losing traction, was such a great setup.
On the new MY15 STI I have gone with the same clicks and it feels great. Admitedly I haven't pushed the car as far as the foz yet so don't know if it will highlight issues with the standard arb or not. That's next on the list to upgrade to be honest. I found the arb and endlink combo to make such a difference.
Interesting the balance you found with your setup. On my Foz I changed the rear ARB to a 22mm adjustable just before the shocks were fitted and all the end links to solid whiteline ones. Even on something like 8 and 10 clicks it felt totally planted and had more contact with the road than the previous setup by miles. Body roll through corners was almost totally flat but without losing traction, was such a great setup.
On the new MY15 STI I have gone with the same clicks and it feels great. Admitedly I haven't pushed the car as far as the foz yet so don't know if it will highlight issues with the standard arb or not. That's next on the list to upgrade to be honest. I found the arb and endlink combo to make such a difference.
I had a suspicion I could feel each shock working independently & I confirmed this again today, where as before it would just jar through to the otherside of the car.
When I fitted the springs a test drive revealed the car was much stiffer & this cut down a lot of the body roll I wasn't happy with (& I recall thinking if I'd need the rear ARB). However I'd bought it & had it powdercoated so on it went along with the Whiteline droplinks. Test drive #2 the car was noticeably stiffer again, but also much harsher as a bump on one side of the rear would now jar through the car to the other side.
I am missing that jarring. The shocks feel well damped but the mildly bouncy & loose feeling is down to needing to up the anti-roll bar to get that side to side rigidity back (which was also apparent via body roll when cornering hard).
Maybe once the ARB is cranked up the shocks will feel too stiff & need backing but I'll need to pull my finger out & sort it first
Last edited by Kaosone; 18 January 2021 at 07:12 PM.
#296
Scooby Regular
I'd image the KW's (assuming they're Variant 3's) are in another league. Do they have high & low speed compression damping?[/QUOTE]
I believe they are variant 3 yes. They have always been very firm but I haven't played with them at all. I'm guessing they were set up with track use in mind.
My mechanic has kind of put me off getting them refurbished. He said that technology has moved on a lot in recent years and there are plenty of nice nice option now (he may just be after my cash though!)
KW told me they are 12 years old, they haven't done much mileage in that time and they feel good I just feel that anything that old needs a refresh!
Getting them refurbished is £174+vat per corner, so around £840 all in!! I thought that was pretty steep while they still feel good so have left it for now.
If I can get it on track this year then I will see how they feel. I've got a day at Snetterton booked for early March but I don't think that'll go ahead now.
I believe they are variant 3 yes. They have always been very firm but I haven't played with them at all. I'm guessing they were set up with track use in mind.
My mechanic has kind of put me off getting them refurbished. He said that technology has moved on a lot in recent years and there are plenty of nice nice option now (he may just be after my cash though!)
KW told me they are 12 years old, they haven't done much mileage in that time and they feel good I just feel that anything that old needs a refresh!
Getting them refurbished is £174+vat per corner, so around £840 all in!! I thought that was pretty steep while they still feel good so have left it for now.
If I can get it on track this year then I will see how they feel. I've got a day at Snetterton booked for early March but I don't think that'll go ahead now.
#297
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I believe they are variant 3 yes. They have always been very firm but I haven't played with them at all. I'm guessing they were set up with track use in mind.
My mechanic has kind of put me off getting them refurbished. He said that technology has moved on a lot in recent years and there are plenty of nice nice option now (he may just be after my cash though!)
KW told me they are 12 years old, they haven't done much mileage in that time and they feel good I just feel that anything that old needs a refresh!
Getting them refurbished is £174+vat per corner, so around £840 all in!! I thought that was pretty steep while they still feel good so have left it for now.
If I can get it on track this year then I will see how they feel. I've got a day at Snetterton booked for early March but I don't think that'll go ahead now.
My mechanic has kind of put me off getting them refurbished. He said that technology has moved on a lot in recent years and there are plenty of nice nice option now (he may just be after my cash though!)
KW told me they are 12 years old, they haven't done much mileage in that time and they feel good I just feel that anything that old needs a refresh!
Getting them refurbished is £174+vat per corner, so around £840 all in!! I thought that was pretty steep while they still feel good so have left it for now.
If I can get it on track this year then I will see how they feel. I've got a day at Snetterton booked for early March but I don't think that'll go ahead now.
Admittedly I watch a lot of YouTube so I am biased, but KW's seem to be the coilover to have & while the refresh is about the same cost I think you'd end up with a better product refreshing the KW's (or sell these & buy a new set & cost might work out about the same if you could get a grand for them).
Good to see you're still contemplating throwing money at it anyway
Last edited by Kaosone; 19 January 2021 at 12:09 AM.
#298
Scooby Regular
If they feel fine, just crack on. They may be 12 years old but they're a high quality item & low miles like you say
Admittedly I watch a lot of YouTube so I am biased, but KW's seem to be the coilover to have & while the refresh is about the same cost I think you'd end up with a better product refreshing the KW's (or sell these & buy a new set & cost might work out about the same if you could get a grand for them).
Good to see you're still contemplating throwing money at it anyway
Admittedly I watch a lot of YouTube so I am biased, but KW's seem to be the coilover to have & while the refresh is about the same cost I think you'd end up with a better product refreshing the KW's (or sell these & buy a new set & cost might work out about the same if you could get a grand for them).
Good to see you're still contemplating throwing money at it anyway
I just wish I had the time (and knowledge) to work on it myself, I'm always paying someone else which doubles the costs.
If I'm honest, I don't think I'll be driving it much once I've collected the spec c so it could very well be for sale again in a couple of months time.
The wife wants to upgrade the family car and she wants a VW caravelle. My eyes dropped out of my heads when I saw the list price for what is effectively a van, so the cash would come in handy too.
#299
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
So 3 weeks after fitting the coilovers it's finally time to pull my finger out & work on the setup. My rear Whileline ARB is on the "*****" setting...
Moved it to the big boy one
Finally my I raised the car 5mm on the rear (the front dropped by 5mm on the coilovers & the rears dropped 10mm, so now they're equal). Original measurement of the threads was 82mm...
So 82mm + 5mm = 87mm & the car's now level (or whatever)
So still with the damping on 20 (20 out from softest or, 12 in from hardest) I went for a thrash. Initial impression: Car is very harsh.
It wants to oversteer & the back feels like it wants to come round. Backed 5 clicks off the damping & continued my "research"...
Car is still noticeably harsh. Hard(ish) cornering in 3rd & it still "feels" a little tail happy, but less so as the shocks soak it up nicer (rather than loading up the opposite side). Further research in a controlled environment (an empty industrial estate) reveals it wont actually break loose at the rear while loading it up out of a corner.
Maybe it would have in 2nd but if I do feel like testing that, it’ll be after getting an alignment / geometry adjustment now the car's lower & level (& also as I fcuked up the front camber while swapping the shocks ).
Moved it to the big boy one
Finally my I raised the car 5mm on the rear (the front dropped by 5mm on the coilovers & the rears dropped 10mm, so now they're equal). Original measurement of the threads was 82mm...
So 82mm + 5mm = 87mm & the car's now level (or whatever)
So still with the damping on 20 (20 out from softest or, 12 in from hardest) I went for a thrash. Initial impression: Car is very harsh.
It wants to oversteer & the back feels like it wants to come round. Backed 5 clicks off the damping & continued my "research"...
Car is still noticeably harsh. Hard(ish) cornering in 3rd & it still "feels" a little tail happy, but less so as the shocks soak it up nicer (rather than loading up the opposite side). Further research in a controlled environment (an empty industrial estate) reveals it wont actually break loose at the rear while loading it up out of a corner.
Maybe it would have in 2nd but if I do feel like testing that, it’ll be after getting an alignment / geometry adjustment now the car's lower & level (& also as I fcuked up the front camber while swapping the shocks ).
Last edited by Kaosone; 07 February 2021 at 12:40 PM.
#300
Scooby Regular
Nice write up bud 👍
A good geo can make a massive difference so it’ll be good to here how it feels after that. Have you got any plans to get it on track?
A good geo can make a massive difference so it’ll be good to here how it feels after that. Have you got any plans to get it on track?