How much pressure did you apply tho, as i say, im really gripping the turbine to make it move, if i just gently move it the radial play is alot less

so if you buy the compressor and turbine they balance them on the spindle but not in the cartridge ? so after its balanced you seperate them to install them again ?

cheers

 

yes, just the spindle. I asked them about it, and they mark it up so it needs to be aligned correctly when fitted. Apparently it's good enough, but I get the impression it's not as good as a full cartridge balance as you might expect.

 

Ok cheers bud

Think im going to leave it, need car back on the road and all the hassle of buying the compressor/turbine then getting it balanced (altho if you bought both from turbo rebuild why he doesnt balance before sending out ? ) has put me off upgrading the turbo.

I tried to undo the spindle anyway, the oposite way etc, lefty tighty, righty loosy but couldnt, i didnt try too hard but alas after my hassle of tremoving the up pipe seized nuts on a turbo spindle doesnt excite me much lol

good luck with yours tho bud, keep us updated

 

Fair enough. I only bought a new compressor and rebuild kit from them as I wasn't planning to replace the turbine and shaft (I replaced the housing with an eBay one as my old one was cracked). In hindsight I should have sent them the turbine shaft so they could balance it with the new comp wheel before they sent it out, but that's 20:20!

 

I see that TurboRebuild sell the cartridge already complete, im guessing thats balanced, bearings etc all done in it, for £225 delivered

https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...urbo-Core.html

Shame they are closed until 1st June.

I couldnt get the splined half nut undone on the turbine side on mine, i put a 12mm spanner on it to hold it whilst i used a 10mm socket on the compressor nut yet the 12mm spanner after a little pressure slipped and made a bit of flat edged mark on it where it slipped, that was enough for me to halt in my tracks lol , hoping its not now out of balance ha ha lol

 

the splinned nut on the turbine side is part of the turbine, and the turbine and shaft are all one piece. You can use the splinned nut to hold the shaft still and undo the compressor side nut which wasn't very tight and is not very tight on fitting, then remove the compressor wheel and push the shaft and turbine back through the main housing.

I thought you weren't going to bother with it though!? Or, like me, did curiosity get the better if you....?

I saw the cartridges but wasn't sure from the picture that they were actually correct for my vf43 as the oil and coolant holes didn't seem right.

 

Ah rite ok . You say the compressor nut wasn't tight , mine is hence whilst using the splinned nut to hold it still with a 12mm it slipped the 10mm was that tight lol . As you say curiosity got me tinkering but going to reassemble it all now before I break something

Cheers

 

Bazil do you have to have it balanced if your just changing the compressor wheel and not removing the the turbine wheel as that's already balanced to the shaft from the factory? I've also ordered a rebuild kit & a billet wheel from turbo rebuild and was on the understanding that the new compressor wheel is already balanced and ready to fit as this is how it's sold on there site. If the compressor wheel has to be balanced to your existing turbine shaft then that would defeat the point of them balancing the new billet wheel when they sell it as it will only be coming back to them to be rebalanced with the shaft?. I was going to call/email them today to find this out for definite but there not available to take calls or emails till the 30th

 

yeah I'm not really sure about this either, you would almost imagine that the stock turbine and shaft are balanced as was anyway and with the new wheel being component balanced that it should be Ok, but these things spin hyper quick (100k rpm), and enough people have mentioned about it needing to be balanced.

I can see the logic from both sides and was half tempted to reassemble it anyway and chance it, but for 50 quid and little delay my conscience got the better of me and I sent the parts off to them today!

 

As mentioned use a hand impact tool like: http://www.halfords.com/workshop-too...ct-driver-bits to remove the bolts and screws. Don't forget the compressor nut thread is opposite of normal, and on mine at least, wasn't very tight.

for the rebuild, I got the torque settings from here: http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/turb...data/ihi_RHF5/

and I bought this: and some high temp (red) silicon.

 

I was just going to rebuild the turbo & fit the new wheel as I didn't think it'd need rebalancing due to how it's sold but reading this thread has gotten me thinking and after how long the cars been off the road I don't really want to put it all back together for it to fail and have to be rebuilt at further expense and time lost for the sake of £50.

It'd be good to know if anyone else has just fitted a balanced wheel without having it balanced to there turbine shaft to hear there experiences

 

I cant see how the compressor wheel can be "balanced" i think they mean its balanced within itself, so if it was spun up on its own it wouldnt wobble or be out of true etc, bit like an alloy wheel, yet when you add a tyre to that alloy wheel, it needs balancing together again

 

This is all very interesting as I'm looking into doing the same on my own. I have a ported vf35 fitted, was thinking of changing to a vf43 or vf48, porting it and changing the compressor wheel but in a random move I've just bought a vf22 but I'm looking at porting it and possibly a billet compressor but I can't see how you can get away without balancing. I had seen the turborebuid site and I think for £50 you'd be mad not to get it done. But it's only when I read this thread, I realised that I'd have to send them the turbine.
Itd be great to hear from someone that's done it

 

If you by a new turbine and compressor from a reputable company, they should be balanced prior to delivery. Just something to bear in mind so that you don't pay twice for the same job.

 

Just had a look at the turborebuild site, turbines are only £47 so it'd be easier to buy it and the compressor and tell them to have it balanced.

 

This is what I've done in the end, for what it costs it makes total sense & there's no charge to have it all balanced up with the components. Should be out to me this week too

 

Sounds good. I also see they do a core with the billet for £200 odd. Cheap fix and upgrade if your turbos getting it tight. They told me expect 5-10% gain

 

i'm not sure how far along you are with and what your plans are now, there is a lot of talk about compressor wheels when the real issue is too much play in the turbo, had a thought that the spindle may be worn, which is worth checking before sending it off for rebuilding whatever you decide to do, sorry should have mentioned that in my earlier post, no point putting fresh cartridge on a damaged shaft as the play may be due to the shaft being worn

as somebody said above, the balanced compressor wheel is just that, a balanced item in itself, there are several components added together to make a turbo and they need balancing as an assembly. no if but or maybe's! it's the reason the 'cheap Chinese' turbo's got a bad reputation.

with regards to a 'billet' or 'cast' compressor wheel, the difference is just in the manufacturing process, cast are mainly mass produced and billet low production. the real focus should be on the design, flow characteristics, strength (if running lots of boost) and weight (to some extent) of the wheel.

if you're really concerned about achieving quicker spool and maintaining similar top end power then really you should be looking into replacing the cartridge bearing turbo with a ball bearing turbo which is roughly 30% more efficient in terms of friction from the bearings

 

Good info Tom , the reason I stayed away from the billet compressor as not convinced it's of any benefit without lots of other mods I don't have .

Standard Td05 with Harvey up pipe along with other mods gets me 1 bar at 3200 , early enough spool for me lol

 

They are throwing in the balance for free if you buy a new compressor and turbine from them? (And presumably the rebuild kit to , because you need the new thrust collar)

Wish I'd known that! A new the turbine and shaft is cheaper than a balance so it makes total sense to do it that way.

Oh well, I'm still waiting for my assembly of old turbine and new compressor to come back all nicely balanced and marked up. Will post some pics for those interested.

 

For those interested, this is how the assembly of my old turbine/shaft and a new billet compressor came back from being balanced at Turbo Rebuilder. They cleaned everything up, including the cack that was on the shaft and balanced it by small (fresh) machining marks on both the turbine and compressor wheels. Once received it took a couple of days and it was returned in the same packing I sent it in.

When I resembled it I lined it as best I could by eye using a set square across the flat end of the turbine. (Additional comment. when reinstalling the compressor housing be mindful of the angle at which it's installed. there is no locating peg like on the turbine side. If it's too far one way or the other the oil feed pipe mounting bracket dose not fit and the compressor outlet will be be in the wrong place to meet with the intercooler inlet hose, I found out the hard way on that one......)

I finally got the car rebuilt this weekend, after 5 months of being off the road, only to find that the starter motor had somehow failed whilst being sat there on the shelf, in a box, not touched! Go figure, so I'm still off the road until tomorrow

 

Looks good bud

I too fell foul of the compressor housing position , luckily I forsore this issue and put the band clamp at the top , so when the compressor housing outlet was not quite square to the intercooler I loosened the clamp whilst turbo was in place and twisted it straight so it lined ip

 

Ok, so car is back on the road now. I've plumbed it for wastegate spring boost only (~10psi). The turbo is hitting that pretty quickly, but not collected any data yet though.

It's much quieter than before, non of the normal turbo whine, which is a shame, as i liked it, but probably a good thing! So all in all a good experience so far....

 

Hi all, to circle back on this one for those who were interested.... after much experimenting with the tune the conclusion is that the new billet wheel (despite being 5g lighter) spools around 250rpm later than the stock VF43 wheel, but is more capable at the top end, i.e. it can blow more air. It can hit 23psi by around 3250rpm now.

So the car is now faster and more powerful than before but is not as ferocious, if that makes sense! The power delivery now is more civilized, which is a shame as I liked how it drove hitting full boost @ ~3krpm!

 

Nice and not so nice lol

weird how being a lighter wheel it spools later tho but nice it hits more pressure.

Ive got my TD05 to hit 1.3 bar at 3400 but i couldnt control the spike , so i now hit 1.3 bar around 3600 and its more easier to control

i hit 1 bar now at 3100 sometimes

 

Interesting. I've been chatting to a turbo specialist in Northern Ireland who will take my vf35, rebuild it with a larger compressor and mill out the compressor housing to suit.
Havent heatd of any results though

 

Aye that would be interesting to see. What do they say will be the end result? Have you collected some date of the before condition?

Intuitively I would imagine adding a larger compressor could hurt spool and top end as it's still being driven by the same turbine.

 

They have no idea as too how it will run afterwards so I'm kind of going off the idea and looking at other options. As you say it would probably hurt spool and that's the last thing I want. A bigger compressor wheel sounds great but it's still restricted by the housing so it's putting me off.
Think I might look more into a td05 18g