Stripped turbo , look ok ?
After the massive job of removing my up pipe I've dismantled the turbo since it had to be removed
Does it look ok ? Not much movement in shaft which is good ? https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...b953a65f49.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...2a5d8a6701.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...02066f9310.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...09184e413a.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...088fbb17b1.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...9613767689.png |
It looks like the turbine is or has contacted the exhaust side heat shield, that could suggest more than acceptable axial play I.e. worn trust bearings. I'm in the process of rebuilding my vf43 with new internal parts, new exhaust heat shield and billet compressor. Bought the parts from turborebuilder (UK based) on Sunday and they arrived today! Pretty good and much quicker than parts from eBay.
Their rebuild kit has everything you need bar the copper crush washers for coolant pipes and a flat washer type thing that sits inbetween the 2 (presumably much softer material) thrust washer faces. It doesn't seem to to have worn so I plan to reuse it. As a tip, if you plan to take it apart, be sure to soak the compressor housing bolts with wd40 for a good while before hand and use a manual impact tool to remove most of the screws, otherwise they tend to round off. It worked ok for me so far! Also the compressor shaft nut is righty loosy, opposite of normal! For assembly you can search Google for the screw, nut and bolt torques, there is a link in one of the forums. Torques are all pretty low so I bought a cheap torque screwdriver 0.5-->5nm for it. |
What technique did you use to remove the exhaust/turbine housing? I'm trying to strip an old TD04 and mine seems to be rusted solid.
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Once the clamp was removed I levered it off with a crowbar a little where i could get purchase, and tapped it with a hammer to remove
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I've left mine soaking in ATF and thought I might have to look into applying some heat to it but sounds like I need to just get medieval on it instead.
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Sometimes a little brute force and ignorance is good... but not too much otherwise you could crack the housing!
Correction to my previous statement, the rebuild kit from turborebuilder actually does have the metal washer thing, now I've opened it.... |
Is there any benefit to putting a billet wheel in if you're stripping and rebuilding anyway? A quick look on ebay says they're not that much money.
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There is, yes. You'll need a map tweak afterwards though.
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Billet compressor wheel is certainly lighter, the 7+7 blade one I ordered from Turborebuilder is 5g lighter than the stock (6+6 blade) piece. So mechanically, at least, it has the potential to spin up faster. :thumb:
They sell 2 types, 7+7 and 11 blade. The 7+7 has 7 large and 7 half size blades, and the 11 I believe has all the same size blades. It seems pretty complicated around which is "better" but from what I've gathered the 7+7 gives better spool up but less potential to make more power at the top end, and the 11 blade makes more power at possible expense of spool up. That's my take on it at least but the information that I've found doesn't seem to be very clear. I really want faster spool over (potential for more) top end power from the stock turbo so I've ported the turbine inlet, headers and fitted a harvey trick up pipe. |
Which turbo is it?
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Originally Posted by TECHNOPUG
(Post 11940612)
Which turbo is it?
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Originally Posted by Bazil_SW
(Post 11940412)
It looks like the turbine is or has contacted the exhaust side heat shield, that could suggest more than acceptable axial play I.e. worn trust bearings. I'm in the process of rebuilding my vf43 with new internal parts, new exhaust heat shield and billet compressor. Bought the parts from turborebuilder (UK based) on Sunday and they arrived today! Pretty good and much quicker than parts from eBay.
Their rebuild kit has everything you need bar the copper crush washers for coolant pipes and a flat washer type thing that sits inbetween the 2 (presumably much softer material) thrust washer faces. It doesn't seem to to have worn so I plan to reuse it. As a tip, if you plan to take it apart, be sure to soak the compressor housing bolts with wd40 for a good while before hand and use a manual impact tool to remove most of the screws, otherwise they tend to round off. It worked ok for me so far! Also the compressor shaft nut is righty loosy, opposite of normal! For assembly you can search Google for the screw, nut and bolt torques, there is a link in one of the forums. Torques are all pretty low so I bought a cheap torque screwdriver 0.5-->5nm for it. A simple job of up pipe replacement cant evolve into a turbo rebuild, the missus will kill me lol good luck with yours bud :luxhello: |
Originally Posted by The Rig
(Post 11940632)
cheers, i did notice that but having a wiggle of the propeller blades not much movement, it has done 110k so hmmmm.
A simple job of up pipe replacement cant evolve into a turbo rebuild, the missus will kill me lol good luck with yours bud :luxhello: |
Originally Posted by Cambs_Stuart
(Post 11940560)
Is there any benefit to putting a billet wheel in if you're stripping and rebuilding anyway? A quick look on ebay says they're not that much money.
running big boost on stock impeller can cause the fins to bend 'open' and catch the compressor housing, maybe that is what has happened to yours. If you put the compressor housing back on and by hand push the wheel outwards as you spin it slowly does it catch the housing? ideally you'd want to balance the turbo assembly once the new compressor wheel has been fitted |
Originally Posted by Cambs_Stuart
(Post 11940640)
But if you've got it in bits anyway, and a new turbine blade and rebuild kit costs about the same as a night out...
I am running 1.3 to 1.4 boost so maybe it's been that , was running good before so as no major damage etc will reassemble and get her back on the road |
Thinking some more about this , I might rebuild the turbo , the lighter turbines interest me as I'm fitting a Harvey up pipe for quicker spool also
Is it easy enough to replace parts or is it worth paying the £320 odd for the pros to do it with all parts etc ? Parts cost what , £150 ? So £150 for labour ? As also said balancing it afterwards is tricky to get done and not something that should be skipped Cheers |
Originally Posted by The Rig
(Post 11941262)
Thinking some more about this , I might rebuild the turbo , the lighter turbines interest me as I'm fitting a Harvey up pipe for quicker spool also
Is it easy enough to replace parts or is it worth paying the £320 odd for the pros to do it with all parts etc ? Parts cost what , £150 ? So £150 for labour ? As also said balancing it afterwards is tricky to get done and not something that should be skipped Cheers I've approached a generic dynamic balancing company to see what they say next week, if not I'm going to have to chance it and put it back together anyway as I need the car back on road.... |
Originally Posted by The Rig
(Post 11941262)
Thinking some more about this , I might rebuild the turbo , the lighter turbines interest me as I'm fitting a Harvey up pipe for quicker spool also
Is it easy enough to replace parts or is it worth paying the £320 odd for the pros to do it with all parts etc ? Parts cost what , £150 ? So £150 for labour ? As also said balancing it afterwards is tricky to get done and not something that should be skipped Cheers send the tubby to these guys http://www.crturbos.co.uk/index.php/...charger-parts/ put it back together with harvey up pipe myself then take it for mapping, remembering to keep it off boost. If you take the actuator arm off then the wastegate penny flaps in the breeze and doesnt make the turbo produce much boost, (bypass always open) so you can rev the engine a bit more without producing much boost, it might sound like a ticking metallic sound as the penny hits things but rather that than boost n boom :thumb: |
Originally Posted by Bazil_SW
(Post 11941267)
struggling to find a company willing to balance a core
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Originally Posted by tom-r33
(Post 11941275)
lad called craig bellworthy on facebook might be worth a shout
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Ok guys, i checked out Turbo Dynamics website , they have a price from £250 + vat for upgrading turbo turbines etc. so ive messgaed them for a quote
anything over £300 and its out of reach for me , will pop a video up later of the movement on my turbine i see these for sale, 9 blades rather than 12 for quicker spool h, hmmm ???? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Turbo-Turb...YAAOSwBahVIf74 |
How do you post a video ?
Cheers |
Originally Posted by The Rig
(Post 11941410)
How do you post a video ?
Cheers |
Ok will try, i have it uploaded to my facebook account but when i put the link in a post on here it doesnt appear, maybe it thinks its a virus or something within the forum code ?
Anyhoo , after some more research, i phned Turbo Dynamics, they dont offer the lesser finned Turbine wheels as these are cheap chinese crap on ebay lol so they wont install these, they do the Billet compressor wheels but again, after reading up on Billet Vs Cast compressor wheels i see no real gain apart from ligtening my wallet really. The axial play (end float) on mine is virtally 0, the Radial play is what i was trying to put a video up of, in it i have to really grip onto the turbine to get the movement i do get, if i use light pressure like they say it hardly moves. So on that basis im thinking of leaving the turbo alone, as you mention in your 1st post Bazil SW, a couple of Turbine fins do have marks on but im putting that down to dust or excessive boost pressure im putting through it at times i cant see any wear on the housing itself cheers |
Right, got there in the end
Heres the turbine Radial movement on mine, now, this is me gripping the turbine pretty hard and making it move, if i use finger tip pressure theres not much movement |
And compressor wheel
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Have seen worse but a bit excessive on the exhaust side.
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Originally Posted by Bazil_SW
(Post 11940611)
Billet compressor wheel is certainly lighter, the 7+7 blade one I ordered from Turborebuilder is 5g lighter than the stock (6+6 blade) piece. So mechanically, at least, it has the potential to spin up faster. :thumb:
They sell 2 types, 7+7 and 11 blade. The 7+7 has 7 large and 7 half size blades, and the 11 I believe has all the same size blades. It seems pretty complicated around which is "better" but from what I've gathered the 7+7 gives better spool up but less potential to make more power at the top end, and the 11 blade makes more power at possible expense of spool up. That's my take on it at least but the information that I've found doesn't seem to be very clear. I really want faster spool over (potential for more) top end power from the stock turbo so I've ported the turbine inlet, headers and fitted a harvey trick up pipe. |
Originally Posted by The Rig
(Post 11941550)
Right, got there in the end
Heres the turbine Radial movement on mine, now, this is me gripping the turbine pretty hard and making it move, if i use finger tip pressure theres not much movement https://youtu.be/AxXUZdUoy68 By accident I've ended up with 2 vf43 rebuild kits so got one going spare if you did want to rebuild it. |
Originally Posted by Gsi Jay
(Post 11941589)
I'll be interested to know how you get on when you've fitted your turbo and had it mapped, thinking of getting my VF43 rebuilt with a billet wheel when i get my engine rebuilt, be nice to know what spool is like compared to standard and what power it makes, good luck with the build. :thumb:
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