What Mods/missions planned for 2017 ?
16 January 2017, 12:01 PM
#61
But engine is on 170k. So deliberating whether to just fit it all now and hope that it lasts a while or have a fully rebuilt engine fitted and maybe go for a bigger turbo also.
I can't really afford (time wise) to be without a car if the engine fails and I have to wait for a rebuild. On the other hand, decent rebuilds aren't cheap. Engine could go on for another 50k after mods and map. Or it could fail in a month's time if I leave it stock.
Decisions, decisions...
I'd be inclined to have a fresh build with a different block and just keep it in reserve.
16 January 2017, 12:19 PM
#62
It's been PPP'd from new and I think had quite an easy life. I've done 50k in 2 years (90% motorway) and runs they same now as when I bought it. Lots of oil changes @6k and preventative maintenance. It's needed a new front O2 sensor and the aforementioned nearside cam-cover gasket. Nearside exhaust gasket blows slightly on start up and it uses a bit of oil. But it's been 100% reliable. Never even had an emissions issue at MoT time and I have no reason to believe that it isn't still running original turbo & CATS.
Can't be unheard of for lightly modded engines running 280+ to carry on for 200k? I guess that I'm taking a big risk asking more of it though
I supposed the easiest thing would be to just source another engine out of a scrapper and send it off to be rebuilt. Then have everything fitted and mapped at the same time, including a new clutch? Guess I won't see much change out of £3k though?
Can't be unheard of for lightly modded engines running 280+ to carry on for 200k? I guess that I'm taking a big risk asking more of it though
I supposed the easiest thing would be to just source another engine out of a scrapper and send it off to be rebuilt. Then have everything fitted and mapped at the same time, including a new clutch? Guess I won't see much change out of £3k though?
Last edited by TECHNOPUG; 16 January 2017 at 12:28 PM.
16 January 2017, 12:37 PM
#63
My wagon was PPP and on 126400 when I sold it 92k when I bought it. I ended up being reluctant to do anything to it as it had been so good, even let the cambelt run over 2yrs and 6k miles out of date (it looked great and idlers/pullys only had 60k on them).
Almost went for a rebuild on it, long story short, I thought better of it, the car was fine and worth less than the engine would cost me so just ran with it for another 18 months then sold it for £2.4k minus the AP 4pots that came with it, was still as good as the day I bought it.
It also got regular oil changes 5/6k or 6 months which ever came first, always Motul 300v, engine was very happy and the car sold in 3 days.
My experience leads me to believe they really like the PPP map, it's enough power if the car is set up properly makes really good progress, I don't remember anything beating me off the lights or leaving me down a country road, between that and regular oil changes the car was a dream to own, only normal wear and tear items, and a new rad in 4.5yrs and 30 odd k miles.
Almost went for a rebuild on it, long story short, I thought better of it, the car was fine and worth less than the engine would cost me so just ran with it for another 18 months then sold it for £2.4k minus the AP 4pots that came with it, was still as good as the day I bought it.
It also got regular oil changes 5/6k or 6 months which ever came first, always Motul 300v, engine was very happy and the car sold in 3 days.
My experience leads me to believe they really like the PPP map, it's enough power if the car is set up properly makes really good progress, I don't remember anything beating me off the lights or leaving me down a country road, between that and regular oil changes the car was a dream to own, only normal wear and tear items, and a new rad in 4.5yrs and 30 odd k miles.
16 January 2017, 12:54 PM
#64
I've got a similar conundrum. My wrx wagon (with ppp fitted when new) is now on 92k, and bar a few gaskets and a new radiator it's been very solidly reliable. I keep thinking about just a little map upgrade to 280ish bhp, but I really don't want to compromise the reliability, after all, it's an 11 year old car on original standard internals.
If I was to go that route the first thing to do would be a compression test and a rolling road session to see if everything is ok before I start.
If I was to go that route the first thing to do would be a compression test and a rolling road session to see if everything is ok before I start.
Last edited by Cambs_Stuart; 16 January 2017 at 01:07 PM.
16 January 2017, 12:59 PM
#65
It makes good progress with the PPP but I often feel that it could do with another 25% more oomph for overtaking, especially where I live.
I'm in a similar position as my car is essentially worthless. 170k 2002 WRX Wagon with a crusty arch...I probably have a grands worth of stuff I could remove and sell separately (APs, HIDs etc) plus all the spares and stuff. So 2017 is the point where I have to decide whether to keep spending money on something of little value. The alternative is to buy a younger model with less miles such as Blob Wagon but then I'm still getting an old second-hand car. Sometimes it's better the devil you know.
I'm in a similar position as my car is essentially worthless. 170k 2002 WRX Wagon with a crusty arch...I probably have a grands worth of stuff I could remove and sell separately (APs, HIDs etc) plus all the spares and stuff. So 2017 is the point where I have to decide whether to keep spending money on something of little value. The alternative is to buy a younger model with less miles such as Blob Wagon but then I'm still getting an old second-hand car. Sometimes it's better the devil you know.
16 January 2017, 01:21 PM
#66
Lol, You two have the same dilemma I went through with mine, although stuart judging by my experience you have at least another 35k miles in the bank if left untouched.
I ended up getting rid because it wasn't really suited to where I now live and the 2500 mile round trip for mot along with the cost involved was a PITA, couldn't justify the £2k a year just to drive a Subaru, between insurance @ £600, European recovery ish £200, £500 fuel there and back tax mot £350 couple of oil changes £200 and a set of pads £150 and that's before anything goes wrong, which with a 12/13yr old car is to be expected, if I'd have kept it then I really needed to think about spending some more money on it... at least the cambelt, full fluids, front/rear crank seals etc etc, engine out up pipe, gaskets yada yada yada.
Just wasn't worth it for what was essentially a £2k car, sad but true unfortunately, so sold up while it was still worth something.
I'm now the proud owner of the previously mentioned Golf MK1 TD, well I have 2 actually which put together cost me the grand total of about £1500. both taxed mot'd and insured in that too, one for about another 4 months and the other for a year. 
I ended up getting rid because it wasn't really suited to where I now live and the 2500 mile round trip for mot along with the cost involved was a PITA, couldn't justify the £2k a year just to drive a Subaru, between insurance @ £600, European recovery ish £200, £500 fuel there and back tax mot £350 couple of oil changes £200 and a set of pads £150 and that's before anything goes wrong, which with a 12/13yr old car is to be expected, if I'd have kept it then I really needed to think about spending some more money on it... at least the cambelt, full fluids, front/rear crank seals etc etc, engine out up pipe, gaskets yada yada yada.
Just wasn't worth it for what was essentially a £2k car, sad but true unfortunately, so sold up while it was still worth something.
I'm now the proud owner of the previously mentioned Golf MK1 TD, well I have 2 actually
which put together cost me the grand total of about £1500. both taxed mot'd and insured in that too, one for about another 4 months and the other for a year.
Last edited by ditchmyster; 16 January 2017 at 01:23 PM.
or just not read my posts when you see them. 