Ere were the roof flap @

 

roof flap is there.

 

How much do you want for it?

 

I'll give you £500 and you can forget about it

 

Hi
Where abouts in Scotland are you?
I'm not too far from Glasgow, I could come see it at the weekend if your not too far away.
I'm looking for a project like this and may be interested.
You can call/text me on 07557419861 if your interested
Cheers.

 

Who was it - Ethel or Deidre?

So you actually have ended up in a ditch. Have you taken out any stray cats by any chance?

Doing doughnuts in McDonald's car park again?

 

Haha, true! But this is why Walter's such a legend!

 

I assume you have all the relevant documentation from Japan, MOT's, etc???

At best it is a 3.5k car assuming the box is intact and is non-DCCD.

4k if you have a fully working DCCD box.

Engine has to many potential issues to price it as fully working.... might be a bent exhaust - might be a lot worse!

That's what I would offer anyway.

Russell

 

engine was rebuilt after a cooling failure, wasn't because of any impact damage. there's nothing wrong with the engine. no ill peeps out of it. gave it a good blast home yesterday. 4th gear @ 5000rpm. left some contender in the dust

it's the turbo/RCM induction kit that doesn't perform like it did.

 

Obviously in a straight line as it doesnt go round a corner . .

 

I can't quite figure out how you've come to this conclusion?

 

when the power went down, the turbo/induction noise changed/diminished. with the loss of this noise (a sort of rapid scooting sound), the power disappeared also. i noticed both at exactly the same time so naturally correlated them.

you know there is a certain gas pedal dipping point/rev count where the turbo kicks in... if you don't venture beyond this point, you don't get the turbo... so you can effectively choose when to engage the turbo at an exact moment (spool it right up to the edge, if you are in the right gear), and the characteristics of this turbo kicking in moment, and subsequent instant pulling power has changed very noticeably.

you don't get the same instant explosion of turbo acceleration when you choose to let rip with the turbo. this is exactly what has diminished. it is much more mellow/muted now and the pulling power on boost is more smooth - where before it was savage and made a lot more noise.

 

Are you sure the intake hose hasn't come off the turbo or something?

 

it does sound like something like that. i figured a air leak or something, as it is like the pressure is way down. i looked around, but couldn't see anything, though what do i know!

you can see the cone thing is actually a little bit damaged with the shunt.

the thing is, the turbo as it was in its more powerful state would be unusable with this steering, it would induce effective torque steer. it would be far too wild as you don't have sharp enough handling/grip on the road to instantly correct any bucking from the instant power... a bit like how you wouldn't be able to engage a powerful turbo on a wet road for the same reasons.

if the steering got tightened, the turbo would be next on the list to fix. but it's almost convenient that the turbo now runs much more mellow with this vague steering.

 

Does your steering have a sort of loose bit in the middle where you can move the wheel but nothing happens at the road wheels?

 

yeah, i would say something like that.

i suspect if you clamped the front wheels down so they couldn't move, you could probably still turn the steering wheel and the front wheels wouldn't move. it's like the bushes are made of jelly or something.

i've been meaning to test that... maybe park the front wheels into a kerb, and turn the steering.

 

It's the rack. I had to drive an M3 home to Leeds from Aberdeen like that. It was quite the experience.

Only other possibility is the bushes as you say, but if a bunch of garages looked at it, surely they would have replaced them?

 

exactly.

is the rack less obvious to spot?

the steering has been degrading progressively, almost predictably as time goes on. so it is something that is deteriorating - don't know if that sounds like the rack.

i can be certain if i fling it into a corner harshly (a lot of sustained G's) then afterwards the steering will be (instantly) deteriorated even further after that.

 

Im almost loathed to suggest anything as you obviously do not have a clue and if you are prepared to let a car get into this kind of state and still drive it then you are in line for a darwin award.....

Sounds like perished power steering seals or similar to me, allowing air in to the rack or fluid under loads but fine under normal circumstances.

 

Two options: Buy a rack for a few hundred quid. If it isn't that you'll be able to resell it easily enough being a Spec C quick rack or;

Get the bushes swapped out for polybushes on the front arms. See if that cures it first. It's the cheaper of the two options.

 

could bad bushes cause this much of a severe problem?

seems like this is beyond that, though i don't know.

and i wouldn't call the steering fine even under normal circumstances.

 

I think it's the rack, but another car of mine would lurch to the right under braking and that was cured with new wishbone bushes. The bush being knackered allowed too much movement of the wishbone.

 

Feed.......

 

Scrap it.

 

Got £4K here for it and can collect it at the weekend

 

fair play to the lad being honest about the car - a lot would try and sell on without telling anything about it

 

Is this car really safe to be on the road ?.

 

You do know there is a 10-12 month waiting list for a new Focus RS don't you?

Kudos for being honest, but with your driving record you might want to consider something much slower.... This has to be the most sorry Spec C around, although given its a Spec C you should still get decentish money - £4k sounds fair and good deal on both sides.

That'll get you about a few driving lessons and a Perodua Myvvi...

 

I'd add that given the problems you've listed, your motor insurance policy isn't worth the paper it's written only - definitely should not be being driven in its current state, and it's a breach of warranty (i.e it's invalid) if the car is unroadworthy....

 

I'd say he'd get more than £4k trading it in to be scrapped. I was offered £3k for my WRX, so a spec C will make quite a bit more in scrap value TBH.


Think Banny is pretty much spot on at £5k.