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Classic geometry settings

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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 01:17 PM
  #31  
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So even though the 22/24 ones are available im prob best to just stick with a 22mm rear then

Il prob just do as you say then if its tried and tested

The car does only really get used on a track if that makes any odds
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 01:23 PM
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Here is a video of a caterham following a rb320 in the wet with the rear roll bar set on the stiffest setting with oem size front. As you can see it's very oversteer based. Geo and dccd setting also help.

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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 01:36 PM
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A adjustable rear 22 will give 21,22,23 settings.
If your cars still understeering with tyres correct geo and rear bar then something is wrong.

Obviously once all that is correct it's a case of adjusting dampers and tyres pressures to fine tune.
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 01:42 PM
  #34  
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That rb320 looks properly planted

il get ordering some bits and align as you have said as a start

Cheers

Il report back in due course of my findings!
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Old Feb 28, 2016 | 11:41 AM
  #35  
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Get the best tyres you can afford that's the first step , you could spend thousands on suspension parts but with shot tyres it's never going to grip
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 10:53 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
That rb320 looks properly planted

il get ordering some bits and align as you have said as a start

Cheers

Il report back in due course of my findings!
personally I prefer Toyo r888 GG


good luck and let us know how you get on!
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 12:01 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
tyre pressures may of been a bit hard i dont know

think i was 34 on front and 32 at rear
Were those pressures hot or cold. I'd expect 40/42 front (hot) on a road tyre - to help the side-wall/contact patch.

You could adjust turn-in, by running 345mm front 350mm rear.

You'd only need a bigger front bar (with whatever size rear, that gives you the balance you like) if you're using sticky track tyres.

If your not driving on the road much, then, camber-wise:
neg 2.30' front
neg 1 to 1.15' rear
As a starting point.

If you're not using front camber plates?
Use these for some additional negative camber, over the oem adjuster:
https://nke-performance.ecwid.com/#!...egory=11136397

Last edited by 2pot; Feb 29, 2016 at 12:37 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 04:05 PM
  #38  
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Are those alignment settings suitable for a classic ? Is having camber bolts enough to setup a classic
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 01:04 PM
  #39  
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So iv got a pair of anti roll bars

They are 22 front and 24 rear though

Whats the best starting point would you recommend?

Middle hole on back and softest on front?
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 11:11 AM
  #40  
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Start with soft on the back, stock on the front.
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 06:52 PM
  #41  
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Soooo

Iv finally started bolting some bits on (its been a while)

Been changing gear box to a 6 speed and going back over these anti roll bars!

I know you advise to inly fit rear but it seems a waste to have a 22mm front st there rotting to or do you all definitely recommend just fitting the rear on its softest to make the front end dart in a bit more?

Any more recommendations on tyres?

Cant seem to get hold of ns2r in soft/track wear so lerhaps going to have to get the federals or ad08r's

Any thoughts?

I wanna spend max really on tyres of about 100 per corner in 215/45 17 trim

Thoughts???
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Old Aug 14, 2016 | 07:48 PM
  #42  
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If it's for track use only, get a set of Dunlop slicks from Clio cup of ebay (~190£ with postage)
That's what I did... and they managed to hold 41º of ambient temp and 1:30h of track use.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 07:04 PM
  #43  
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Had alignment done

0.03 toe in on rear 0.06 total toe

1.3 neg camber on rear

0.00 toe on front

2.0 neg on front

4 degrees castor

See how it gos on saturday

Have re050 tyres on

Whiteline 24mm rear arb set on softest

Just have to play with dampers on the day any suggestions for bc's?

Any idea on cold tyre pressures to run aswell?

Cheers

Last edited by d.kenny; Oct 20, 2016 at 07:05 PM.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 09:07 PM
  #44  
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That was meant to be on the more track focused setup lol

Gotta be better than it was
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 07:08 AM
  #45  
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What would be more aggressive?

What would i be changing and for what affect?

I have some experience with front wheel drive but nothing else

Cheers
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 03:54 PM
  #46  
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One of the things that intrigues me about running zero toe up front is that it might reduce the looseness steering feel that you get when running a hair of toe in at the front. Of course once you start to push on the car a bit, i.e. on the track into corners hard, that goes away.

I think the settings you have a pretty good, very similar to what I run on my Type R which sees the odd track day and is mainly a road car. The main difference between my set up and yours is that I run a bit of toe in at the front and on the rear, with a slight bias to running a bit more toe in at the rear to settle it.

Let us know how it feels, as I may (on my next set up) go to what you have - with running things set to zero toe on the front axle and just a tiny bit of toe in at the rear.
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Old Oct 13, 2017 | 09:30 AM
  #47  
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on the road it seems a bit unsettled and seems to move around a lot if that makes sense...it almost doesnt feel safe lol

i think the suspension is way to hard on it as the only give seems to be in the tyres which is minimal and hence why i think the bc's have got to go to make way for something better...thinking 50mm bilsteins
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Old Dec 29, 2017 | 06:31 PM
  #48  
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Put rear arb on middle setting today and still on standard front

gave it about 1.5mm toe in overall on front and when it dried out car was much better

Bc coilovers on pretty much softest all round and i liked how it went

better tyres now i reckon to
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