2.35 build cost
06 August 2015, 11:06 AM
#31
It's the only option for you, so that its in keeping with the rest of the build 
Which to be honest I've stopped commenting on, due to sounding like a stuck record. There's only so many times I can say I love it haha. Fair play to both you and Dave mate
Sounds good J, you'll have to let us know how you get on with that?
When will it be done by?
Which to be honest I've stopped commenting on, due to sounding like a stuck record. There's only so many times I can say I love it haha. Fair play to both you and Dave mate
Sounds good J, you'll have to let us know how you get on with that?
When will it be done by?
fingers crossed!I wish I was rich enough to afford a 2.35!
06 August 2015, 12:20 PM
#32
Yeah ive bitten off a big bit this time.
Ideally id like to go with a 2.35 and drop the GT35R down to a billet 30R. Low to mid 500s with bonkers response would be my prefered choice. Even a 2.1 would be nice, but i do like the torque spread of the big 2.5l. The torque spread is very useable.
06 August 2015, 10:48 PM
#34
Cheers Joe,
Yeah ive bitten off a big bit this time.
Ideally id like to go with a 2.35 and drop the GT35R down to a billet 30R. Low to mid 500s with bonkers response would be my preferred choice. Even a 2.1 would be nice, but i do like the torque spread of the big 2.5l. The torque spread is very useable.
Yeah ive bitten off a big bit this time.
Ideally id like to go with a 2.35 and drop the GT35R down to a billet 30R. Low to mid 500s with bonkers response would be my preferred choice. Even a 2.1 would be nice, but i do like the torque spread of the big 2.5l. The torque spread is very useable.
You have to be a brave man to be chopping it up the way you are...onwards and upwards I guess.
I have have forged 2.5 2.0 and 2.1 over the years.
And I know you are well versed in these matters too...but my thoughts are
The pick of the bunch for the road at about say 440/440 is the 2.5. But there is always that slight nagging doubt it might let go.... probably not ...but the doubt is there. But an AS performance closed deck block probably puts paid to that doubt at that power level. The rush of torque is great but it looses that shove in the back feel a bit and it is a bit more German creamy smooth rush of torque power delivery feel. But boy can you make progress on the road on one. I put a Subaru of this spec up against AMGs, MTM RS4s ect in Germany over a period of three years. A properly set up one is really capable
For me a high compression 2.1 in a CDB is the way to go, especially as I am a track guy mainly these days. I mean it might always let go but I just have that much more confidence in it and it just loves too rev and when you are near the limiter in 4th or whatever on a track it is the right tool for the job.
Ultimately all the internals for a 2.1 or a 2.3 are pretty similar in cost. (correct if I am wrong guys but that was always the case back in the day) It is just the EJ22 block that comes at the premium, if you can find one.
So as always it is the same conclusion - track 2.1 road 2.5
Cheers
Steve
Last edited by Steve Whitehorn; 07 August 2015 at 06:09 PM.
07 August 2015, 12:55 PM
#38
No I'll be sticking with my 2.5 chugger for another season mate. Can't really afford to tbh, I need to get the car more circuit/track focused. I'm trying to compete with cars that are purpose built for sprinting and I'm just getting out gunned pal. No seats/cage, road suspension,very tame geo, tyres that just arnt up to spec, 300mm brakes with road pads.
The list goes on lol, need to get stuff like that addressed first, don't get me wrong I love my car, but I built it as a road car . For what we're doing with em mate the car has got to be on the money you know what I mean.
All that said I love the sprints
The list goes on lol, need to get stuff like that addressed first, don't get me wrong I love my car, but I built it as a road car . For what we're doing with em mate the car has got to be on the money you know what I mean.
All that said I love the sprints
07 August 2015, 03:03 PM
#39
No I'll be sticking with my 2.5 chugger for another season mate. Can't really afford to tbh, I need to get the car more circuit/track focused. I'm trying to compete with cars that are purpose built for sprinting and I'm just getting out gunned pal. No seats/cage, road suspension,very tame geo, tyres that just arnt up to spec, 300mm brakes with road pads.
The list goes on lol, need to get stuff like that addressed first, don't get me wrong I love my car, but I built it as a road car . For what we're doing with em mate the car has got to be on the money you know what I mean.
All that said I love the sprints
The list goes on lol, need to get stuff like that addressed first, don't get me wrong I love my car, but I built it as a road car . For what we're doing with em mate the car has got to be on the money you know what I mean.
All that said I love the sprints
I love the sprints too pal and I`m looking to do some time attack as well next year. I`ve got a busy winter coming up building my car up next season. Looks like the S204 will have to go to fund it and that will a sad day when the best handling car I have ever owned leaves my garage, but at least the track car will have a heated garage to sleep in.
Last edited by S204Darren; 07 August 2015 at 03:11 PM.
07 August 2015, 03:15 PM
#40
No I'll be sticking with my 2.5 chugger for another season mate. Can't really afford to tbh, I need to get the car more circuit/track focused. I'm trying to compete with cars that are purpose built for sprinting and I'm just getting out gunned pal. No seats/cage, road suspension,very tame geo, tyres that just arnt up to spec, 300mm brakes with road pads.
The list goes on lol, need to get stuff like that addressed first, don't get me wrong I love my car, but I built it as a road car . For what we're doing with em mate the car has got to be on the money you know what I mean.
All that said I love the sprints
The list goes on lol, need to get stuff like that addressed first, don't get me wrong I love my car, but I built it as a road car . For what we're doing with em mate the car has got to be on the money you know what I mean.
All that said I love the sprints
Your not doing to bad you`ve had wins a podiums this year so your doing something right pal
07 August 2015, 05:06 PM
#43
Not sure about a 2.35 but including the wrong turns and dead ends I’ve gone down, my forged 2.1 stroker running just 353/335 has cost around £17.5k all in over 4 years.
If I’d known what I know now it would still have run to around £14.5k all in.
Of that, around £10k would cover the costs from induction cone to tailpipe with the rest covering gearbox, brakes and suspension.
The truth is, ‘proper’ modding for power doesn’t come cheap.
If I’d known what I know now it would still have run to around £14.5k all in.
Of that, around £10k would cover the costs from induction cone to tailpipe with the rest covering gearbox, brakes and suspension.
The truth is, ‘proper’ modding for power doesn’t come cheap.
10 August 2015, 10:59 PM
#46
dont kid yourself a decent specced 2.1 is a cheap option-especially when you factor in a decent turbo ecu injectors exhaust fmic oil cooling sump tyres brakes ,suspension yarda yarda yarda and of course fitting ,mapping and piffing about . if your using new parts got to be 10k minimum-my rebuilt long engine is coming to circa 6k on its own
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Last edited by madwrx; 10 August 2015 at 11:01 PM.
26 January 2018, 12:44 AM
#47
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Sorry to bring back an old thread but I finally did it. I thought I would just update what it has cost up to now n I’m still needing a few things to finish it of. Here Ia quick list I put together in my notes but have probably missed a few things off.
2.35 engine build 13850
Owens gt35 turbo 2500
Syvecs ecu, sensors n wiring 2500
Asnu 1200cc injectors 700
Exedy hyper triple plate clutch kit 1650
Ap racing 6 pot front brake kit 1650
Oil cooler setup 225
Rcm pulleys 150
Fpr, rails n hoses 350
Kn N filter n trumpet 200
CDF clear timing covers 150
Spec c inlet 300
Roll cage 450.
total up to now £24,675
There a quite a few things that I got second hand in good condition aswel in there not to mention the 10k of stuff I already had from my 400hp build that are already on the car. Also still need a fuel setup, seats and a few handling mods to finish it off which I imagine will come to around 5k. So the answer to my own original question is if you want to build a good 2.35 40k might just get you close n that’s without the cost of a few days mapping n all the labour if you pay someone to do it for you.
2.35 engine build 13850
Owens gt35 turbo 2500
Syvecs ecu, sensors n wiring 2500
Asnu 1200cc injectors 700
Exedy hyper triple plate clutch kit 1650
Ap racing 6 pot front brake kit 1650
Oil cooler setup 225
Rcm pulleys 150
Fpr, rails n hoses 350
Kn N filter n trumpet 200
CDF clear timing covers 150
Spec c inlet 300
Roll cage 450.
total up to now £24,675
There a quite a few things that I got second hand in good condition aswel in there not to mention the 10k of stuff I already had from my 400hp build that are already on the car. Also still need a fuel setup, seats and a few handling mods to finish it off which I imagine will come to around 5k. So the answer to my own original question is if you want to build a good 2.35 40k might just get you close n that’s without the cost of a few days mapping n all the labour if you pay someone to do it for you.
27 January 2018, 08:14 AM
#56
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you can buy a full blown 1000bhp billet block engine for that price from the states lol , well around 4k less in our money but I suspect you would lose that again on import charges lol
https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-W...g-eng-1610.htm
Last edited by domino46; 27 January 2018 at 08:26 AM.
27 January 2018, 08:41 AM
#57
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and I would , considering I can get a full blown gas ringed WRC engine build done for around half that price
you can buy a full blown 1000bhp billet block engine for that price from the states lol , well around 4k less in our money but I suspect you would lose that again on import charges lol
https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-W...g-eng-1610.htm
you can buy a full blown 1000bhp billet block engine for that price from the states lol , well around 4k less in our money but I suspect you would lose that again on import charges lol
https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-W...g-eng-1610.htm
Although that IAG Billet has no heads sump, pumps etc so still a few quid away from being finished.
27 January 2018, 08:52 AM
#58
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yea was just a example really , there next stage down is still 1000bhp rated but without the billet block and is more like £4.5k in our money so plenty left over from 14k to do head work and other bits ,, and it comes with a 12 month or 12k warranty lol
27 January 2018, 09:03 AM
#59
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The block to make a 2.35 and machining & closed deck around £3k ish
Crank £3k
Rods & Pistons £1.5k
heads & machining £1.5k
Cams valves etc £1.5k
Pumps, sumps, seals bolts & Belts £1.5k
There's £12k which could be reduced or increased depending on quality of parts used
Without a labour charge, spark plug, oil, coolant,
Crank £3k
Rods & Pistons £1.5k
heads & machining £1.5k
Cams valves etc £1.5k
Pumps, sumps, seals bolts & Belts £1.5k
There's £12k which could be reduced or increased depending on quality of parts used
Without a labour charge, spark plug, oil, coolant,
27 January 2018, 09:51 AM
#60
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You boys have clearly never had a 2.35 built have you. Even using cheaper parts n getting your mechanic mate to throw it all together you couldn’t do it for half the price.