I just updated my build thread. Endof next week I hope fingers crossed!

I wish I was rich enough to afford a 2.35!

 

Cheers Joe,

Yeah ive bitten off a big bit this time.

Ideally id like to go with a 2.35 and drop the GT35R down to a billet 30R. Low to mid 500s with bonkers response would be my prefered choice. Even a 2.1 would be nice, but i do like the torque spread of the big 2.5l. The torque spread is very useable.

 

Cheers buddy..I wont ask you to share your bad memories, it will just add to the list of things i worry about

 

I have always admired the Bomber Frayz
You have to be a brave man to be chopping it up the way you are...onwards and upwards I guess.
I have have forged 2.5 2.0 and 2.1 over the years.
And I know you are well versed in these matters too...but my thoughts are

The pick of the bunch for the road at about say 440/440 is the 2.5. But there is always that slight nagging doubt it might let go.... probably not ...but the doubt is there. But an AS performance closed deck block probably puts paid to that doubt at that power level. The rush of torque is great but it looses that shove in the back feel a bit and it is a bit more German creamy smooth rush of torque power delivery feel. But boy can you make progress on the road on one. I put a Subaru of this spec up against AMGs, MTM RS4s ect in Germany over a period of three years. A properly set up one is really capable

For me a high compression 2.1 in a CDB is the way to go, especially as I am a track guy mainly these days. I mean it might always let go but I just have that much more confidence in it and it just loves too rev and when you are near the limiter in 4th or whatever on a track it is the right tool for the job.

Ultimately all the internals for a 2.1 or a 2.3 are pretty similar in cost. (correct if I am wrong guys but that was always the case back in the day) It is just the EJ22 block that comes at the premium, if you can find one.

So as always it is the same conclusion - track 2.1 road 2.5

Cheers
Steve

 

Agree with steve, especially when. A properly built 2.1 can do 9krpm!

 

nail on head with that post steve

 

Are you going the 2.1 route next season Joe?

 

No I'll be sticking with my 2.5 chugger for another season mate. Can't really afford to tbh, I need to get the car more circuit/track focused. I'm trying to compete with cars that are purpose built for sprinting and I'm just getting out gunned pal. No seats/cage, road suspension,very tame geo, tyres that just arnt up to spec, 300mm brakes with road pads.
The list goes on lol, need to get stuff like that addressed first, don't get me wrong I love my car, but I built it as a road car . For what we're doing with em mate the car has got to be on the money you know what I mean.

All that said I love the sprints

 

I love the sprints too pal and I`m looking to do some time attack as well next year. I`ve got a busy winter coming up building my car up next season. Looks like the S204 will have to go to fund it and that will a sad day when the best handling car I have ever owned leaves my garage, but at least the track car will have a heated garage to sleep in.

 

Your not doing to bad you`ve had wins a podiums this year so your doing something right pal

 

I need to stick my head round your door and have a butchers at the 204 before she goes.
Very cool car indeed and nice to say you've owned one, but if being on track is you passion mate then needs must!

 

Minus them heads out of that pic

 

Not sure about a 2.35 but including the wrong turns and dead ends I’ve gone down, my forged 2.1 stroker running just 353/335 has cost around £17.5k all in over 4 years.

If I’d known what I know now it would still have run to around £14.5k all in.
Of that, around £10k would cover the costs from induction cone to tailpipe with the rest covering gearbox, brakes and suspension.

The truth is, ‘proper’ modding for power doesn’t come cheap.

 

is it up and running now busta ??

 

Lol, nope

 

dont kid yourself a decent specced 2.1 is a cheap option-especially when you factor in a decent turbo ecu injectors exhaust fmic oil cooling sump tyres brakes ,suspension yarda yarda yarda and of course fitting ,mapping and piffing about . if your using new parts got to be 10k minimum-my rebuilt long engine is coming to circa 6k on its own-

 

Sorry to bring back an old thread but I finally did it. I thought I would just update what it has cost up to now n I’m still needing a few things to finish it of. Here Ia quick list I put together in my notes but have probably missed a few things off.
2.35 engine build 13850
Owens gt35 turbo 2500
Syvecs ecu, sensors n wiring 2500
Asnu 1200cc injectors 700
Exedy hyper triple plate clutch kit 1650
Ap racing 6 pot front brake kit 1650
Oil cooler setup 225
Rcm pulleys 150
Fpr, rails n hoses 350
Kn N filter n trumpet 200
CDF clear timing covers 150
Spec c inlet 300
Roll cage 450.
total up to now £24,675
There a quite a few things that I got second hand in good condition aswel in there not to mention the 10k of stuff I already had from my 400hp build that are already on the car. Also still need a fuel setup, seats and a few handling mods to finish it off which I imagine will come to around 5k. So the answer to my own original question is if you want to build a good 2.35 40k might just get you close n that’s without the cost of a few days mapping n all the labour if you pay someone to do it for you.

 

Thanks for the update. It's useful information.

No need to apologies for the resurrection: it's really good when members come back on a thread to let us know how things worked out.

 

 

I would follow a project thread, could you expand a bit on the engine build please, you mentioned labour, did you have someone build the long engine or did you do that?
thanks
Trev

 

 

14 k for an engine build am I missing something

 

Why do you say that?

 

I’d expect it to come in at half that
Can you put the Break down for me please bud

 

Will do pal but I’m at work atm having my diner so I’ll post over the weekend when I get a minute.The arrow crank alone is £2750.

 

and I would , considering I can get a full blown gas ringed WRC engine build done for around half that price

you can buy a full blown 1000bhp billet block engine for that price from the states lol , well around 4k less in our money but I suspect you would lose that again on import charges lol

https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-W...g-eng-1610.htm

 

I agree with this,

Although that IAG Billet has no heads sump, pumps etc so still a few quid away from being finished.

 

yea was just a example really , there next stage down is still 1000bhp rated but without the billet block and is more like £4.5k in our money so plenty left over from 14k to do head work and other bits ,, and it comes with a 12 month or 12k warranty lol

 

The block to make a 2.35 and machining & closed deck around £3k ish

Crank £3k

Rods & Pistons £1.5k

heads & machining £1.5k

Cams valves etc £1.5k

Pumps, sumps, seals bolts & Belts £1.5k

There's £12k which could be reduced or increased depending on quality of parts used

Without a labour charge, spark plug, oil, coolant,

 

You boys have clearly never had a 2.35 built have you. Even using cheaper parts n getting your mechanic mate to throw it all together you couldn’t do it for half the price.