Hi Jura , some mixed reviews on there .. The windage tray is exactly that , a "Tray" wich allows oil to be collected so the crank is continuously lubricated.
It also features run off alowing oil to be directed into the locating position were the pick up sits .. Using there own " deep pan " in conjunction with thease two items gives exactly the same results but allows more oil .. So you would be looking at around 6-7 ltrs on a oil change
Regards mic

 

Just to mention that the reason I changed from the Cosworth version was that when I removed mine on the last engine the rubber flaps were distorted and needed replaced. Something I would never have noticed without removing it. It had lost a lot of it's effectiveness. This is further backed up by the fact they are available separately. The killer B baffle does not have this issue

 

Additional info from Chris @ killerB - I emailed him asking a few questions. Note I've edited a few bits that may be considered contentious / product marketing.

we've been seeing a rise in activity from your neck of the woods lately. I'm going
to look into updating our account on Scoobynet so we can address some of this stuff
for others to see as well, who also have these questions.

The RCM / Cosworth baffle plate design goes way back to the
early 2.0 WRC cars when the factory cars were required to run a factory sump. At the
time Subaru employed a sump with horizontal baffles and Cosworth added to the design
with the plate. If not sure how the design came to being, but from practical testing
we've seen, and the track guys we've worked with on the Nurburgring, they just don't
work that well. Especially on the newer sump design (Spec-C, S203, USDM 2.5 STi, any factory
twin scroll, or models later than 2005) that is not flat bottom like the old style.
Hard core track guys were actually having better luck with the factory baffle.

There are several reasons why the 'flat plate' style baffle doesn't work well. The
flapper valves were developed by BMW l-o-n-g ago and are standard in the higher end
M-series cars. The difference in the application is that those valves are used as
designed, vertically. On the Horizontal plate they don't seal very well and even
hang open, especially after many heat cycles. The valves should be replaced every
season as they start to take a set and start to loose functionality. Another problem
with the horizontal plate is that oil can skirt across it under certain conditions.
Because it's a horizontal plate, under some lighter lateral loading, it can actually
cause the outside facing head to pool more oil than with the factory baffle. Pooling
oil in the heads is ALWAYS bad as it means there's less in the sump. Since it
resides between the sump and engine block it adds another gasket sealing surface
that adds potential for leaking. The marketing as a 'crank scraper' is debatable since
the OEM block design itself is an awesome crank scraper. Then there
is the cost !

Our design is similar to the design of the Tomei oil baffle. It
allows free flowing oil into the sump, prevents oil splashback into the crank, helps
direct incoming oil from the heads down to the sump and costs a 'reasonable' amount
considering it's manufacturing costs. It was designed around the sump for the USDM
2.5 STi (same sump as Spec-C, S203, twin scroll, etc...).

The testing and track use has been very extensive and we only test products through
independent sources to reduce any bias and get honest feedback regarding performance
and design. It use our sump, pickup, baffle can withstand 1.6Gs sustained without
starvation. We've not seen a Subaru (anywhere in the world) exceed those levels, but
we have seen other products falter at those extremes. For occasional track use a
sump may or may not be necessary on top of the baffle. The OEM setup is good to
~1.2Gs depending on track conditions (banking, sweeper, hill crest, etc.) so if
you're not to those levels yet, the OEM pan is fine.

And a bit more info

You have to keep in mind here... oil does not 'surge' in these engines like many
would lead you to believe. It takes SIGNIFICANT forces to surge out of the sump, but
the oil does climb up the side of the sump. No plate baffle is going to prevent
that. Our design instead directs oil downward, as it drains from the 3 main areas,
in the most efficient manner so that no matter what the conditions the maximum
amount of oil is directed down to the bottom of the sump. A plate is a disruption to
this downward flow, and worse, can direct the flow of oil across and not downward.

The baffling on the older flat bottom sump is poor (two layers of horizontal
baffles). The newer 'flow through' style mentioned on the models previously is a
superior design. Although, at some level (no matter whose baffle you use) the sump
can run dry. Like I said before this happens ~1.2Gs sustained. This effect is NOT
caused by 'surging'. The OEM Subaru oil pumps moves tremendous amounts of oil (more
than many racing V-8s!), so what ends up happening around a corner is that oil pools
in the outside facing head... eventually... running the oil level remaining in the
sump down to dangerous levels.

 

Just to show baffle and lift pipe and finally the sump fitted to my current build









and a little priming before the final fit. These really are beautifully made and fit factory

 

I do like this but was wondering if the oem sump with killer b baffle plate and oil pick up would be ok? Car is mainly fast road use and will see track maybe once or twice a year

 

I have a brand new RCM one in it's box with receipt for sale for sensible money if anyone wants it.

 

Thats what I want to know - is the killerB baffle and pick up a better proposition than the RCM / Cosworth baffle plate ?????? From the info supplied by Chris it probably is (but he could be biased - LOL)

 

How come you are not using it ?

 

It's a choice market , just like everything else in the tuning world ..
I can't comnent on the cosworth , RCM because they are not fitted to my car
The Killer B is , & works flawless ,,
It's been said time & time again on here , if the OEM pick up fails its your engine
Some builders , choose to replace with OEM Some upgrade for piece of mind .
Free plug , just remember to put new sump case bolts in when changing
Import car parts do the set ta

 

Do you have all 3 parts fitted i.e. pan / baffle / pick up ?

 

No , i ended up just sticking with the OEM pan as it works fine .

 

My original plan was to build two new engines so started buying everything in twos. But due to finances I can now only afford to build one engine.

 

Are you using on road or track? How are you measuring the results?

I'm asking as an RCM baffle plate was going in but now I'm not so sure

Cheers

 

Well I'm in the 500 Club , I don't track my car , & it hasn't expired

 

Ok - thanks

Anyone out there use just the windage tray and pickup on track ?

 

How much of a pain are these kind of items to fit with the engine in?

 

[/QUOTE]Fitting the tray and pic up are very easy. Getting the sump off.... not so easy. It can be done with the engine in place but its a very fiddly annoying and crappy job to do. Probably my second least favourite job I have done on my car other then trying to get the ******* gearbox off and on again from underneath.

 

5 baffles and Two pick up kits available in a few days if there is any interest

 

Yes defo

 

Interested in a price for the Oil pick up, Baffle and pan, please PM me.

Cheers
Rich

Edit: EJ20 engine (2.1 CDB)

 

I wouldn't mind a price also

 

Are the baffles and oil pickups available yet?
Pm if prefered.

 

Hi

Just had a killer B Windage tray fitted on my Hawkeye spec c. I sourced it new via E bay from a guy in Ireland.
Unfortunately it didn't come with their improved pickup pipe so I fitted a new standard one just to be safe.
Main reason I fitted it was that I do a few track days and I wanted the piece of mind.
So far so good. It's definitely a well produced item.