How much should i expect to pay for a 2.5 short motor
#31
What power level is safe ? I have run 575 on a 2.5 scd with a pinned block , the same block then did time attack at over mid 600 bhp ! Maybe it was luck ? Maybe bad news travels fast ? Most builders seem to say keep the 2.5 to 450 ish and you'll be ok !
When I need a build next it will be going to alyn at as performance for closed decking
Maz
When I need a build next it will be going to alyn at as performance for closed decking
Maz
#33
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What power level is safe ? I have run 575 on a 2.5 scd with a pinned block , the same block then did time attack at over mid 600 bhp ! Maybe it was luck ? Maybe bad news travels fast ? Most builders seem to say keep the 2.5 to 450 ish and you'll be ok !
When I need a build next it will be going to alyn at as performance for closed decking
Maz
When I need a build next it will be going to alyn at as performance for closed decking
Maz
The 2.6 ive built with a pinned block is only because a Customer ordered the block then decided to go CDB, so I used it for the 2.6, i'm not planning on running much over 400, I just want a nice, non laggy 400 ish. Steve Simpson put a running in map on it and it made 350/400 at 3500 on actuator pressure :-)
I tend to use AS Performance for my CDB's now, they are not that expensive and add peace of mind. I'll post a picture of a recent build shortly.
As for the reliabilty of the 2.5's, I built a forged scdb about 2 years ago, uts been running 430bhp and been a daily driver and track day car for around 20K, it came back for a refresh as it was suffering with a headgasket problem (Cometics) and other than that it was perfect.
#36
A 2.5 forged short engine at £2500 is a scdb, for a closed deck it would be £3000.
The 2.6 ive built with a pinned block is only because a Customer ordered the block then decided to go CDB, so I used it for the 2.6, i'm not planning on running much over 400, I just want a nice, non laggy 400 ish. Steve Simpson put a running in map on it and it made 350/400 at 3500 on actuator pressure :-)
I tend to use AS Performance for my CDB's now, they are not that expensive and add peace of mind. I'll post a picture of a recent build shortly.
As for the reliabilty of the 2.5's, I built a forged scdb about 2 years ago, uts been running 430bhp and been a daily driver and track day car for around 20K, it came back for a refresh as it was suffering with a headgasket problem (Cometics) and other than that it was perfect.
The 2.6 ive built with a pinned block is only because a Customer ordered the block then decided to go CDB, so I used it for the 2.6, i'm not planning on running much over 400, I just want a nice, non laggy 400 ish. Steve Simpson put a running in map on it and it made 350/400 at 3500 on actuator pressure :-)
I tend to use AS Performance for my CDB's now, they are not that expensive and add peace of mind. I'll post a picture of a recent build shortly.
As for the reliabilty of the 2.5's, I built a forged scdb about 2 years ago, uts been running 430bhp and been a daily driver and track day car for around 20K, it came back for a refresh as it was suffering with a headgasket problem (Cometics) and other than that it was perfect.
#37
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Block bored and faces skimmed
Mahle 4032 or 4618 pistons
ej257 heat treated crank
acl race series mains and big ends
Williams H beam rods, arp bolts
Subaru 11mm oil pump, new front and rear seas
oil pickup
new sump fitted
#40
A 2.1 to the following spec is £2500 up to 450bhp £2600 for over that in a scdb, or +£500 in a cdb
Block bored and faces skimmed
Mahle 4032 or 4618 pistons
ej257 heat treated crank
acl race series mains and big ends
Williams H beam rods, arp bolts
Subaru 11mm oil pump, new front and rear seas
oil pickup
new sump fitted
Block bored and faces skimmed
Mahle 4032 or 4618 pistons
ej257 heat treated crank
acl race series mains and big ends
Williams H beam rods, arp bolts
Subaru 11mm oil pump, new front and rear seas
oil pickup
new sump fitted
#44
I know there is no definative answer to this as there are too many variables but in general when you have had a forged engine built and pushing close or maybe slightly beyond power wise to what its rated to how long do you expect it to last without an overhaual or how many miles rather ???
My only real previous experience was with owning a rwd cossie for ten years and in that time had 3 complete rebuilds and none lasted for more than 25k miles and using different engine builders. I guess thats what i would be hoping for now as thats the only experience i have lol.
My only real previous experience was with owning a rwd cossie for ten years and in that time had 3 complete rebuilds and none lasted for more than 25k miles and using different engine builders. I guess thats what i would be hoping for now as thats the only experience i have lol.
#45
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I know there is no definative answer to this as there are too many variables but in general when you have had a forged engine built and pushing close or maybe slightly beyond power wise to what its rated to how long do you expect it to last without an overhaual or how many miles rather ???
My only real previous experience was with owning a rwd cossie for ten years and in that time had 3 complete rebuilds and none lasted for more than 25k miles and using different engine builders. I guess thats what i would be hoping for now as thats the only experience i have lol.
My only real previous experience was with owning a rwd cossie for ten years and in that time had 3 complete rebuilds and none lasted for more than 25k miles and using different engine builders. I guess thats what i would be hoping for now as thats the only experience i have lol.
#47
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iTrader: (13)
Assuming the build is good with the right components, correct clearances etc.the next thing is the quality of the mapping, there are mappers, and mappers! After that it's very much down to servicing and how hard its used. The 2.5 I built 2 years ago, running 430bhp and a variety of daily driving and some track day use has proven to be 99% reliable, only the recent headgasket issue really, this has been rectified with some Cosworth gaskets and a slight drop in CR. The bores, pistons and bearings looked like new.
Warm it up, cool it sown, change the oil, get gauges to monitor what is going on ect.
Is the other big factor in making it last.
Also temper that with the fact that any engine producing big power that is driven real hard, once it is warmed up, will only last so long.
Also as JGlanzaV pointed out, a spec gives you an indication of what something will be able to take.
But there are many exceptions to the rule, and certain gearboxes /engines take alot more power day in day out than they should do. But they do. So it is not set in stone.
#48
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
Hi there
Agree with 2.1L,its great compromise between the good and early spool and high bhp and torque,we are run open deck 2.1L with MDX321T and we are made 452bhp/440lb-ft and on 20% meth 490bhp/480lb-ft
But if you are looking to get 2.5L without the CDB insert then as above people recommend to lower yours power target
With CDB insert then I would go probably with destroker'd 2.5L which seems is best from both worlds and agree with above guys,I would go with Alyn CDB inserts which been proven on many cars at various bhp levels
Hope this help
Thanks,Jura
Agree with 2.1L,its great compromise between the good and early spool and high bhp and torque,we are run open deck 2.1L with MDX321T and we are made 452bhp/440lb-ft and on 20% meth 490bhp/480lb-ft
But if you are looking to get 2.5L without the CDB insert then as above people recommend to lower yours power target
With CDB insert then I would go probably with destroker'd 2.5L which seems is best from both worlds and agree with above guys,I would go with Alyn CDB inserts which been proven on many cars at various bhp levels
Hope this help
Thanks,Jura
#49
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
A 2.1 to the following spec is £2500 up to 450bhp £2600 for over that in a scdb, or +£500 in a cdb
Block bored and faces skimmed
Mahle 4032 or 4618 pistons
ej257 heat treated crank
acl race series mains and big ends
Williams H beam rods, arp bolts
Subaru 11mm oil pump, new front and rear seas
oil pickup
new sump fitted
Block bored and faces skimmed
Mahle 4032 or 4618 pistons
ej257 heat treated crank
acl race series mains and big ends
Williams H beam rods, arp bolts
Subaru 11mm oil pump, new front and rear seas
oil pickup
new sump fitted
#50
+1 This
Warm it up, cool it sown, change the oil, get gauges to monitor what is going on ect.
Is the other big factor in making it last.
Also temper that with the fact that any engine producing big power that is driven real hard, once it is warmed up, will only last so long.
Also as JGlanzaV pointed out, a spec gives you an indication of what something will be able to take.
But there are many exceptions to the rule, and certain gearboxes /engines take alot more power day in day out than they should do. But they do. So it is not set in stone.
Warm it up, cool it sown, change the oil, get gauges to monitor what is going on ect.
Is the other big factor in making it last.
Also temper that with the fact that any engine producing big power that is driven real hard, once it is warmed up, will only last so long.
Also as JGlanzaV pointed out, a spec gives you an indication of what something will be able to take.
But there are many exceptions to the rule, and certain gearboxes /engines take alot more power day in day out than they should do. But they do. So it is not set in stone.
#51
Hi there
Agree with 2.1L,its great compromise between the good and early spool and high bhp and torque,we are run open deck 2.1L with MDX321T and we are made 452bhp/440lb-ft and on 20% meth 490bhp/480lb-ft
But if you are looking to get 2.5L without the CDB insert then as above people recommend to lower yours power target
With CDB insert then I would go probably with destroker'd 2.5L which seems is best from both worlds and agree with above guys,I would go with Alyn CDB inserts which been proven on many cars at various bhp levels
Hope this help
Thanks,Jura
Agree with 2.1L,its great compromise between the good and early spool and high bhp and torque,we are run open deck 2.1L with MDX321T and we are made 452bhp/440lb-ft and on 20% meth 490bhp/480lb-ft
But if you are looking to get 2.5L without the CDB insert then as above people recommend to lower yours power target
With CDB insert then I would go probably with destroker'd 2.5L which seems is best from both worlds and agree with above guys,I would go with Alyn CDB inserts which been proven on many cars at various bhp levels
Hope this help
Thanks,Jura
Also what are the advantages and disadvantages in both bhp and torque and revving ability ??
Is it more expensive to de-stroke the 2.5 as apposed to a regular 2.5 forged build ??
I dont know a great deal about stroking, i know its common to stroke the 2.0 and 2.2 and now becoming common to de-stroke the 2.5 so all a little confusing to me lol..
Last edited by Dubzy; 22 November 2014 at 11:25 PM.
#52
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
I think i have pretty much decided on a 2.5 cdb now as the torque is so appealing, Can you please explain what affect de-stroking the 2.5 will have on its strength and power handling capabilities ??
Also what are the advantages and disadvantages in both bhp and torque and revving ability ??
Is it more expensive to de-stroke the 2.5 as apposed to a regular 2.5 forged build ??
I dont know a great deal about stroking, i know its common to stroke the 2.0 and 2.2 and now becoming common to de-stroke the 2.5 so all a little confusing to me lol..
Also what are the advantages and disadvantages in both bhp and torque and revving ability ??
Is it more expensive to de-stroke the 2.5 as apposed to a regular 2.5 forged build ??
I dont know a great deal about stroking, i know its common to stroke the 2.0 and 2.2 and now becoming common to de-stroke the 2.5 so all a little confusing to me lol..
Agree 2.5L torque is appealing,but with 2.5L you will inherent their issues too,but with CDB insert you should be just OK
Destrokering 2.5L is very popular in US and now seems too popular over here
Advantage of the destroker'd 2.5L is you can rev higher than with 2.5L,in bhp you shouldn't see any difference,in torque figures really depends on the turbo used,but with MDX321V or SC46 or any other standard location turbo,you will loose bit of torque
Disadvantage of the destroker'd 2.5L,you will loose some displacement and then you will loose bit of torque,but you will gain on the top end or on the rev ability
Not sure if destroker'd 2.5L is more expensive,you will need to use longer rods(+2mm),stroker pistons or custom pistons(I think JE Pistons are available,but I would speak with Alyn,I think he done destroker'd CDB 2.5L or you can speak with Drew) and you will need to use EJ207 crank,apart of that everything should be same and same parts like on standard forged rebuild
2.5L is lazy engine in standard form,agree have more torque,but torque is not everything,I just prefer have more power than torque
Hope this help
Thanks,Jura
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I think i have pretty much decided on a 2.5 cdb now as the torque is so appealing, Can you please explain what affect de-stroking the 2.5 will have on its strength and power handling capabilities ??
Also what are the advantages and disadvantages in both bhp and torque and revving ability ??
Is it more expensive to de-stroke the 2.5 as apposed to a regular 2.5 forged build ??
I dont know a great deal about stroking, i know its common to stroke the 2.0 and 2.2 and now becoming common to de-stroke the 2.5 so all a little confusing to me lol..
Also what are the advantages and disadvantages in both bhp and torque and revving ability ??
Is it more expensive to de-stroke the 2.5 as apposed to a regular 2.5 forged build ??
I dont know a great deal about stroking, i know its common to stroke the 2.0 and 2.2 and now becoming common to de-stroke the 2.5 so all a little confusing to me lol..
PS I will have +2mm rods in stock by the end of the year :-)
#55
Thanks for all the info guys, A de-stroked 2.5 cdb would seem a good compromise then even if still a little unproven at 500+ compared to a 2.1 but i think its a risk im now prepared to take and i will be keeping my current v8 sti motor to keep me on the road if it all goes wrong lol. Time to start the ball rolling........
#56
Scooby Senior
iTrader: (68)
I am going to be running a destroked 2.5 in a pinned block, aiming for a solid 550bhp using a brog warner efr 7670 turbo.
This is the spec as I picked it up used but only covered about 5k ish
Tomei +2mm rods
Cp custom pistons
Acl race bearings
Ej25 casings ( pinned )
Drilled for 14mm studs using 14mm-12mm studs
12mm modified oil pump
2.0 rear thrust crank
Rcm water pump
Billet belt guide
Twin scroll sump / pickup
2.5 ringed standard sti heads
This is the spec as I picked it up used but only covered about 5k ish
Tomei +2mm rods
Cp custom pistons
Acl race bearings
Ej25 casings ( pinned )
Drilled for 14mm studs using 14mm-12mm studs
12mm modified oil pump
2.0 rear thrust crank
Rcm water pump
Billet belt guide
Twin scroll sump / pickup
2.5 ringed standard sti heads
#57
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (16)
I am going to be running a destroked 2.5 in a pinned block, aiming for a solid 550bhp using a brog warner efr 7670 turbo.
This is the spec as I picked it up used but only covered about 5k ish
Tomei +2mm rods
Cp custom pistons
Acl race bearings
Ej25 casings ( pinned )
Drilled for 14mm studs using 14mm-12mm studs
12mm modified oil pump
2.0 rear thrust crank
Rcm water pump
Billet belt guide
Twin scroll sump / pickup
2.5 ringed standard sti heads
This is the spec as I picked it up used but only covered about 5k ish
Tomei +2mm rods
Cp custom pistons
Acl race bearings
Ej25 casings ( pinned )
Drilled for 14mm studs using 14mm-12mm studs
12mm modified oil pump
2.0 rear thrust crank
Rcm water pump
Billet belt guide
Twin scroll sump / pickup
2.5 ringed standard sti heads
Stock location on the turbo banny ? Or rotated ? Looks quite big ! Easy fit ?
#60
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Location: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
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