mikeblackett

The simpler the better, yeah the more you delve into the fic the more you realise what it can do, also it's not complicated to use, I supposed if the lambda was disconnected it would force it into open loop but would probably fire some sort of cel at least if I leave it connected I can leave the Ecu to control idle and anything up to 27% throttle when warm to get some sort of economy in closed loop.
Just been out to car it would seem it's a 0-4 volt signal range going back to Ecu with 3.88 v as cold, warming up to 1.2 v at full operating temp so at least I've got the values for the analog tables.
Quick coffee and I'm gonna get going with this

boosted

Let me know your findings. I actually tried to simulate the denso wideband on my impreza through the AEM (had AEM wideband going into FIC and was simulating a voltage for the impreza ecu) this was to save me buying a new denso lambda sensor, was just going to use my bosch/AEM. Didn't work for me

mikeblackett

Right, I used the analogue A map to alter the voltage to the Ecu, the car was warm reading 0 into the fic now so I input 1.2 v back into the ecu every where in vac area of the map so the car thought it was warm as not to alter anything in vacuum then 4 v back into the Ecu in boosted area then went for a run when I hit boost the car went into open loop straight away at 1psi and onwards.
But, there's a problem the analog map must be completely filled in and won't allow the Ecu to see any realtime sensor readings, a zero in the map means 0 volts not no change this isn't going to work as the Ecu will never know if the engine is overheating as it will only see what the fic wants it to see, also the Ecu also monitors this for switching the radiator fans on which happens to be around .6 of a volt and under, the fic simply won't know this.

mikeblackett

Ok so after a couple of checks Ecu emits a reference voltage of 4.88v to the
Cts that bleeds away to 1.2 v when engine is warm then at .6 of a volt the radiator fans come on.
Here's the plan somehow source a 6 volt normally closed relay have the coolant sensor wire connected up so that the the Ecu sees all voltage changes as the cts warms up and is in vacuum and still has control of rad fans should it need it. Now Im going to control the relay with the fic six o2 map wire set a 5 volt signal when it goes into boost this will open the relay, break the circuit and the Ecu will see 4.88 v instead of the 1.2 v it was reading when relay was closed.
I pretty sure 5v should be able to open relay failing that il use the 12v switched mode in the fic with a 12v relay but I was planning on keeping that for the water injection signal.

mikeblackett

Been a bit of a disastrous week, just realised mot been out for 3 weeks so I stuck it in to a different garage as my usual one closed down. Anyway it failed on two massive holes one on each rear inner arch about the size of an iPad mini, you can't see them if you shine a torch in there but the mot guy said it a common area for the Impreza (news to me) he said he always sticks his hand right up to the strut top and feels towards the outside of the car he thumps around in that area ( photos to follow) mot guy reckons it's been like that for a couple of years and I don't doubt him as there was nothing left just a huge hole and no rust debris.
Anyway suspension out and 8 hours later i welded it all up and what a pig of a job it was, I don't know what I'm more pleased with doing a good job or saving £800, I'm glad he found it but I was a bit surprised as the rest of the car is solid
Anyway got car back from retest tonight so when the weather clears il get the decat back on and stuff hooked up and il get on with the 6v relay for the fic to switch the Ecu from closed to open loop.

boosted

ugh, rust. ill have to check my newage for rust in that place, news to me too

mikeblackett

Ok that's the relay installed Ecu switching to open loop at 1psi onwards at about 1000rpm I took abit of the ignition advance out with the fic, I've disconnected the boost bleed off valve I'm running just under a bar and injector duty cycle at wot is at around 85% so that's fine, just working on a custom filter housing now

mikeblackett

Update, been having some issues with the 6v automotive relay switching to open loop it seems the coil field collapses due to as less than constant feed from the fic and I am only just having the power to activate the relay also open circuit is probably not the way I should do this.
So attempt no two, I'm using a 5v miniature relay so it doesn't take so much to pull the coil, then I'm going to use a 10k pot to control the resistance feed back to Ecu instead of open circuit at 5v which is well into the minus of coolant temp.
This way I can play around with it, and see if injector pulse width vary with coolant temps.
The car is running really well especially when relay switches it to open loop at 27% tp
Now these modern drive belts are stretch fit types and since going to the small pulley I've gone through 2 belts as they stretch so much out of range of alternator adjustments, this is due to the tension I have apply due to the minimal belt wrap on the small pulley so I'm going to use a cord type belt this should sort this out the stretch.
So all the above is simple enough to sort.
On closer inspection of data logs fuelling is an issue, injector duty cycle up at 98% at full boost so I need to address this.

Due to there not being a straight swap injector upgrade for the flbc100 injector same used in the 2.5 rs where do I go from here ?
At present I'm running into 70 psi fuel pressure at full boost to make all this work and I've never really been happy with this pressure.
Now I know I could decap the original injectors to increase flow rate and lower the fuel pressure and there's some debate in spray patterns after the mod so any input of people who have done this I'm interested in feed back.
I don't really want to change inlet manifolds to a wrx due to everything is built around the gx inlet but I could rework mine to accept the wrx injectors and rework the fuel rail so this really is the only option left.

mikeblackett

I've been out to the car and pulled an injector out see what's involved in decapping it, the make up of the injector isn't the same as the wrx types so that's out of the window, so modding a gx inlet manifold to except wrx injectors it is.
Anyone out there who could give me the bore size of v7 injector hole in the inlet manifold ?
Also I know the gx rail is not going to except wrx injectors due to o ring size so Il have to use a wrx fuel rail but I'm not sure what centers between injector holes are on a wrx either so I could do with that info as well it maybe a straight swap but I've got my doubts
Thanks

boosted

Are you actually in Aberdeen??? I'm just down the road in Montrose

mikeblackett

Yeah I'm in Aberdeen, it's a small world, I didn't realise you lived that close

boosted

Mental. I work near stoney

mikeblackett

Front o2 sensor sh#t itself this morning, afr in the 9's, hunting like hell, just not driveable waiting on new sensor