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Blob WRX Wagon 2.1 Stroker Project

Old 16 February 2015, 09:23 PM
  #151  
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Doubt the valve is burnt if it comes and goes.
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Old 16 February 2015, 10:23 PM
  #152  
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I'm going to have another dig around at the weekend with it.

I have new OEM injector seals so I'll fit those and swap injectors 1 & 3 over and see what that does, I'll check the timing to see if its skipped teeth on the timing belt (I'd expect #3 to misfire too though?) and I'll compression test it and see what it comes back with.

I know its not the plug or coil. I find it strange that it runs better with the evap solenoid unplugged too. No misfires, still a bit lumpy though.
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Old 23 February 2015, 11:24 AM
  #153  
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Well I literally couldn't be arsed with it at all this weekend so didn't bother looking at it.

It's been running ok all last week, not misfiring, still slight bump at idle. Purge solenoid has been disconnected the entire time. Runs like a champ from stone cold, smooth as silk, then as it warms up it starts to get slight bumps in the idle. Not using oil, coolant, cranks and fires right up no issues.

I don't know maybe if its a Vac leak as it seems to behave like one, maybe intake manifold gasket or an injector insulator. I've noticed if I flick the ignition on and off a few times the FPR starts making surging random noises..... :S. Like air being blown through water under pressure.

If I can be arsed with it I might treat it to a compression test this weekend, but I've had just about enough of the damn thing now TBH.
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Old 23 February 2015, 01:43 PM
  #154  
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I did say injector seal a while back! They only seal through compression against the face, old age would defiantly have an effect on them
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Old 23 February 2015, 02:14 PM
  #155  
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I do have new OEM seals as I had to replace the other side as one of the top o-rings split and pissed fuel everywhere. So I bought enough to do all 4.

It's completely random though:

-Purge Solenoid connected: Runs worse
-Purge Solenoid Disconnected: Runs loads better
-Doesn't miss at WOT (did previously but this was sorted with plug gaps)
-Will miss at constant throttle whilst cruising and continue to get worse unless you give it some throttle and it clears up (purge solenoid connected)
-Misses if left to idle for more than a couple of minutes and progressively gets worse until it drops to 3 pots (purge solenoid connected)
-Also misses after boosting (purge solenoid connected)
-Going WOT from 0% throttle results in a pop from the exhaust (purge solenoid connected)
-Start from cold the engine runs smooth as silk and only starts to show slight idle bumps as it comes up to temperature
-Vacuum at idle is -0.8 Bar which is about -23inhg and is steady

I have no idea what relation the Purge solenoid has to any of it, but it runs a damn sight better with it unplugged but still not 100% as its still lightly bumping at idle.

Next thing to do would be compression test it, then boost leak test it (I'd have to make a tester).

Last edited by ScottyPPP; 23 February 2015 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 23 February 2015, 07:31 PM
  #156  
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Purge solenoid would create an unmetered vacuum leak if it was playing up, this would cause misfire. Either the solenoid, ecu or solenoid pipework to tank couldn't be at fault
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Old 23 February 2015, 10:09 PM
  #157  
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Yeah it still bumps at idle if I block off the 3 Vac ports the pipework for that gubbins attaches to, one on the turbo inlet and 2 on the intake manifold.
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Old 25 February 2015, 09:38 PM
  #158  
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Had a bit of a bargain earlier, managed to pick up a set of 4 hawkeye blue 550 injectors very cheap . In case I need a spare, and if not I can punt them on.

Anyway car has been missing again according to the wife, I just had a look around with a torch and it looks like the plug on the injector has backed off and isn't seated correctly compared to the others.... I can't reach the damn thing with everything in the way as its right under the FPR, I wonder if this is the cause of all the issues......
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Old 25 February 2015, 11:31 PM
  #159  
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Got it plugged back in, connector was just resting on it....

Seems to run a lot better now! See how she goes.
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Old 26 February 2015, 11:24 AM
  #160  
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That would do it!
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Old 26 February 2015, 06:54 PM
  #161  
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Indeed, haven't given it a hard run yet with lots of boost but seemed fine on the 25 min drive I took last night.

Anyone need a set of 550cc top feeds?
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Old 01 March 2015, 05:56 PM
  #162  
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Ok, so took the car out yesterday and gave it some stick. The CEL has cleared itself which is always a good thing.

Anyway the car drove well, pulled hard and didn't misfire at all. Got it nice and hot with some long hard pulls and it ran great. There is a but coming...

Once the car was nice and hot I was getting hesitation on initial throttle application. So cruise along at 40mph, stab the throttle and you get a hesitation and a pop and then it shoots off and pulls fine from then on. Easing into it slowly then going full power it doesn't do it. Stab the throttle and it does.

Seems like TPS maybe or fuel related?
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Old 01 March 2015, 10:14 PM
  #163  
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Could be anything. If it was megasquirted it would be easy to diagnose!
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Old 02 March 2015, 02:29 PM
  #164  
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No codes for it, its nothing major just a slight blip then pulls fine. Could be the injector latency or something apparently. Although odd how its only once fully warmed up.

Getting fed up of chasing issues around on this now though. Tempted to sell it and go back to BMW's
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Old 04 March 2015, 06:38 PM
  #165  
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Sounds a bit like the tip-in fuel enrichment is set incorrectly.
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Old 04 March 2015, 08:43 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by Deej View Post
Sounds a bit like the tip-in fuel enrichment is set incorrectly.
Aye the acceleration enrichment as it's called on my software. Get out the laptop...
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Old 05 March 2015, 04:46 PM
  #167  
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I assume that would be an issue the entire time though?
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Old 05 March 2015, 04:55 PM
  #168  
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I've dropped Duncan a message to see what he makes of it.
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Old 16 March 2015, 01:25 PM
  #169  
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Right think I've solved the hesitation issue, the airbox lid wasn't fully seated leaving a slight gap (K&N Panel makes it an **** to get the lid on).

But the car still pulls timing after a while of driving it hard. However I think I may know why! The downpipe bracket that attaches under the car is loose as the bolt has gone walk about and its make all kinds of weird squeaky metal on metal type noises. As the exhaust is directly attached to the engine I should think these noises / knocks etc are transmitted straight into the engine block and picked up by the knock sensor as phatom knock, hence pulling the timing.
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Old 16 March 2015, 01:37 PM
  #170  
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In other news I've replaced the rad caps, 1.37 Bar Subaru OEM cap on the rad and a Blitz (yes I know!) 1.3 bar (actually 1.27) on the header tank as the original ones were a bit past it.

Also does anyone else have issues running LED's on their subaru? Mine destroys them! The 501 bulbs in the sidelights blew, you have to remove the headlights to get them out, so I thought I would replace them with LED's so I didn't have to do it again, so got a cheap pair, fitted them and they were fine for a week or so then started strobing on and off all the time.

Fair enough they were cheap, I must have expected too much. So much more expensive LED's fitted, rear plate lights too, and again after a week the car is a mobile disco again!! I've bought plain old 501 5w bulbs to replace them with now instead.

Maybe the voltage regulator is shafted in the alternator or subaru's and LED's just aren't a good mix?
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Old 16 March 2015, 03:28 PM
  #171  
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My blob came with loads of led bulbs in it, but they all have inline resistors soldered in too.
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Old 16 March 2015, 05:12 PM
  #172  
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same here, I have cheap white LEDs in my side lights, no resistors as not needed on the blob and no issues
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Old 16 March 2015, 06:52 PM
  #173  
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Hmmm, have to crack out the multimeter then! As something is killing them, first set of 4 and now the 2nd set of 4 have also suffered the same fate.
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Old 21 March 2015, 04:06 PM
  #174  
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So alternator is ****ed!

I get 14.3 volts for about 3 seconds after starting, then 12.5, no amount of revving etc brings it back up. Turn loads of crap on like all lights, heater, heated screen etc and it drops to 11.8 whilst running. At least they're easy to change on an impreza

No idea how long its been like that, not getting a battery light on the dash either, which you would think you should! Still runs lol.
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Old 24 March 2015, 10:21 AM
  #175  
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Have sourced a replacement which I'll be fitting tomorrow and hopefully that resolves the issue. Would have never known if it wasn't for the LED's going crazy!
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Old 25 March 2015, 11:14 PM
  #176  
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Good news its the alternator! Easy fix!

This thread needs some more pics soon
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Old 26 March 2015, 12:37 AM
  #177  
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Yeah swapped it earlier, problem solved .

I'll get some pics soon, car doesn't look any different though .

Also sorted the exhaust bracket out today and replaced the bolt, car no longer pulls timing....

Its running fantastic at the moment actually, very happy with it (not to jinx it).

I've also just accepted another job which is going to mean i'll have quite a bit more spare change and I'll also be buying a "Daily" car so this can become more of a toy, so thinking time for a bigger turbo .
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Old 26 March 2015, 08:03 AM
  #178  
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Yay bigger turbo, more boost. Injectors, clutch, gearbox....
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Old 26 March 2015, 11:00 PM
  #179  
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Well I did jinx it, still has a hiccup at 4500rpm for some reason, is fine above and below that. Although not all the time.
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Old 27 March 2015, 10:19 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by ScottyPPP View Post
Well I did jinx it, still has a hiccup at 4500rpm for some reason, is fine above and below that. Although not all the time.
Not enough boost, screw the boost up and it will be fine
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