Style

iTrader: (1)

Aboit had enough of this car. Changed so many things and it's still not running right.

Getting idle control valve error. Just put a known working one on, and getting this error and bad shaking, engine rocking on idle. Tried cleaning the old one and all sorts. New gasket etc but still getting it.

It's a 2001 wrx and nearly got it back on the road but it still won't run right! :-$ . In last 2 months it's had

new maf
Lambda,
Spark plugs,
Different coil packs,
Sti intercooler as old wrx had small leak.
Back to standard dump valve
Replaced all vacuum hoses
Radiator got a pin hole leak, so new rad
Bought tactrix cable to turn off tgvs as previous guy fitted sti inlet manifold and didn't know about them. Turns out Ecu was locked with ecutek, so had to pay more money to get around that.



Spent a fortune and can't even get it to run as standard. Its slowly killing my soul.

Does 2001 bugeye wrx have this neutral positiob switch that can mess up these cars?

All help advice really appreciated.
Thanks

bengo

iTrader: (17)

Using your Tactrix, what's the throttle position sensor voltage with your foot off the pedal?

Was the idle control valve spinning free when you cleaned it up? I've seen some completely welded up and needed to put it in a vice to free it...

bengo

iTrader: (17)

I don't think a faulty NPS will cause any issues on your car, it can effect the AVCS on STI's...

You should be able to log the NPS with Tactrix/RomRaider too, it should switch from 1 to 0 when going in and out of neutral.

Style

iTrader: (1)

ok cheers bengo,

ill charge that battery up, and see what i can see on my laptop. using ecuedit at the moment, im sure that will display the same information as Romraider, no doubt though. but im a complete novice when it comes to both application,s but ive used ecuedit slightly more so ill see if i can find that info with that.

that makes sense, so if the neutral position switch is flicking from 0-1 with out touching the gears, that would potentially be the problem.

what should you expect of the throttle position sensor voltage? it to remain constant i imagine?

i should find out soon enough anyway i suppose.

ill record a log of it running erratically with this problem, that should help i suppose, jsut need to understand what i will be looknig for!

Style

iTrader: (1)

ok, so turns out NOPS appears to be running correctly, 1 when in neutral, and zero when in gear, but switches to 1 when back in neutral.


the throttle position sensor switch was a constant 0.58, however would go up, when revved then straight back to .58

at times when revved a tiny bit, the revvs stick at 2000 and slowly come back down to around 1000,

as said, i recently got a replacement idle control valve. cleaned mine with carb cleaner, it would spin round very freely, replaced with new gasket but got this error. Then got a 2nd hand working unit and fitted that but got the same p1507 error.

i took a log of the car donig it so can check ther parameters, jsut a bit of a novice and not sure what value are correct or not

jameswrx

iTrader: (4)

You sure you don't have a vacuum leak?

I'd get some brake cleaner and have a spray around the inlet manifold gaskets with the engine running, and have a look where the intake pipe goes onto the turbo, make sure that's not split.

Style

iTrader: (1)

Oh my god!

Yea you are correct. Well this definatEly isn't helping.

The sti intercooler, er I bought off a guy on here is leaking in the bottom left corner, badly!

I only got it because the wrx one I had was also leaking.

Not happy, especially if he knew it was buggered before he sold It. Now I know why it was cheaper than most.

Ill have to get a 3rd intercooler. Spend even more £££s to see if I can get it working correctly.

Man alive. Anyone got a newage intercooler going cheap. Would take a standard wrx one at this point

kevo10

Could it not be repaired at a decent rad repair shop?

Style

iTrader: (1)

Yea good shout. Realized can probably do something to patch it up. Got some jb weld on it at the moment. Should be dry later so I'll test it out.

Never used the stuff before but seems very heavy duty from what I can read and only needs to hold air, fingers crossed it fixes it. I'll be made up if it does 😁

Style

iTrader: (1)

So fixed the intercooler (I think) cleared the code and car was ok. But they came back on during the mot

Failed on Emissions guessing as it threw two error codes p1507 and p0507!

p1507 (Idle Control System Fault (Fail Safe Mode) and p0507 ( Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected)

Any ideas? It's recently had idle control valve replaced with second hand unit

Style

iTrader: (1)

Is 0.58v ok, for throttle position sensor? Or does it have to be 0.5v exactly

Style

iTrader: (1)

Anyone?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

im maybe 80% sure the throttle voltage should be 0.45-0.55v fully closed also have you checked everywhere else for leaks, if you've replaced the IACV and it's still mucking about then there could be air getting in somewhere else (or getting out!) when it shouldn't.

Could be a bad earth as well, if the manifold was replaced by some space unit they may not have added all the earths back and that will land you with a load of gremlins. In romraider logger what does your battery voltage report when running - also click the "LTV" button the left and then "save as image"- post the image up as it may help spot whats wrong.

Style

iTrader: (1)

Hey bludgod, thanks for your response. Been away in egypt for a while, just got back.. was 47' out there, well hot!

Anyways I'm back on the case for getting this fixed ASAP.

I will get on that tomorrow, or probably throw you a direct email if u struggle with the old rom raider.

Small update - I slighlty loosened the tps, and gave it a wiggle with the laptop connected, and got it to land on 5.2v, and tightened it up, so that should be within tolerance.

Quick question on checking vacuum leaks.. I've got a compressor In the garage.. what kind of pressure would it be safe to put into the inlet to test for leaks? I'm not sure how, but planning on attaching and sealing a connection between compressor and inlet after maf, and pump some air in, to double check for any tiny leaks

Style

iTrader: (1)

Also while I think about it. Could a cheap maf cause this? I got a brand new one off eBay, for about 40 quid. .. It's a non genuine part. But as stated above the only error I'm left with. . Having cleared 9 of them is p1507.. idle control fail safe

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

non-genuine parts will not have the correct maf scaling usually - you could've got a 2nd hand genuine maf for that kind of money mr.

for testing the intake for leaks, you should be find around 10psi or so as your not testing the max pressure it can hold just if there is any escaping. Easy way is to spray some carb cleaner around the pipes and the joins with the engine running - if there's a big enough leak it will be sucked in and you'll hear the change in exhaust note.

Also yes feel free to drop me an email if you need some e-tuning/tweaking, be glad to help if i can!

Fonzey

iTrader: (5)

I set myself up a little boost leak detector. Got a bung and stuck a bike tyre valve in it:



It's a bit easier for me as I've got a group-n inlet with no breather takeoffs (catch-can) so I've got nothing to blank off, I just whip the cone out and stick my bung in then charge it up.

Only needs 5-10psi in it to hear audible leaks - and soapy water spray on all joints will point out any issues too.

You're likely to have an intake with a shed load of takeoffs on it which may make it more difficult. Ideally you want to start measuring for leaks after the turbo - so perhaps a bung on your Y pipe would work better, it's just more effort than my setup to get a test going.

Style

iTrader: (1)

bludgod, jsut sent you a email with a ecu edit logging session, from a wiped error code, to p1507 kicking in after about 30 seconds..

ive expalined more on my mail, but if you can take a look, or give any advice / help with this that would be great.

thanks again

rob84

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like the replacement IACV is bad, Have you not tried a new one. Usually only ever get those codes if the valve is bad, alternatively to avoid the cost of a new one borrow it off a friends car that's good. you'll have to buy him a gasket but its worth trying

freetek

Shame on Su- IACV

In case this isn’t yet common knowledge, Fuji decided to haggle with the supplier for that part, a division of Hitachi (Unisia), so the production was moved to (gee, China?) yeah, in 2003.
The formerly cast housing of the Japanese part is now formed sheet metal and the innards are different.

The new (Chinese) part came today so it was installed, the codes erased which were still present despite having the battery disconnected: 1511, 1514, 1516, 1517.
I used the ‘relearning’ procedure I found and the loping is still present and resets two of the codes continuously; 1511 & 1517.
All of these, point to the IAC valve circuits being either high or low.

I am hoping these are not being generated by a failed ECU.

FYI: The Idle Air Control Valve is being offered from various US sources at prices >$200 and down to ~ $14 and ‘used’ ones for $65 on ebay.
I suspect they all come from the same Chinese source so I have ordered two (just in case) on aliexpress.com for $10 each including shipping.
Since I also found TPSs there for ~ the same price, I ordered one of those too.