lennyd

I'm toying with the idea of buying the godspeed big brake conversion
http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/~god...id_product=121

Has anyone here got them and are they worth the money

cheers
Lenny

300gnspitzer

I've got them, they certainly work ok, a good bit better than the standard setup.
I did one track day, 100 miles approx. and I've found cracks radiating out from
the bolt holes where the disc fits on the bell. I asked the question and was told
that cracking is normal. I'm booked on a track day next month so I'll see how much
worse the cracks get. At almost £300 for a pair of replacement discs they need to
do several more days.

stonejedi

iTrader: (51)

Who told you that cracking is normal?.SJ.

AS Performance

iTrader: (4)

(minor) cracks are only "normal" on drilled type rotors and even then need to be carefully monitored, etc. to keep them within very strict wear limits......

cracks in any other form or on any other rotor/disc are NOT normal and will almost certainly lead to problems and in extreme the disc will FAIL!!!!

300gnspitzer

Ian at Godspeed

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Where's the popcorn....

stonejedi

iTrader: (51)

Try and get some pics up of where the disc is cracking I would be interested to see,because as far as I'm concern any cracking on a disc is fatigue of the materials.And the fact that you do track days it will only exasperate the problem further especially with a hard race compound pad heating and cooling down the brakes,the cracks can only get worst simple 101 physics.SJ.

300gnspitzer

SJ. I have no idea how to put a pic. up on here.
Not every hole has a crack coming from it, from memory I think there's 4 on one disc and 5 on the other. the longest is about 15mm most are about 8-10mm from the
edge of the bell

Godspeed Brakes

iTrader: (259)

If you do track days , you will get heat crazing on the discs , which eventually WILL crack discs , all discs can craze and crack , not just drilled discs , drilled discs are bad for it.

Not sure why you have said what you have alyn , I'm quite surprised actually as you only have to do a bit of google searching and you will find pictures of every make of disc crazing and cracking , even PF discs



You need to make sure that calipers are working as they should , if they are sticking or seizing then the discs will run much hotter than they should , and also if discs aren't bedded in properly before going on the track they can crack quickly.

But to repeat , if you drive hard , or do track days heat crazing is normal and shouldn't be a concern unless they turn into big cracks

Cheers Ian

Godspeed Brakes

iTrader: (259)

To add , this is why we do not scollap our discs between the bolt holes where the bells fit on , we keep the material there so if it does crack or craze the disc will not fail , I have seen this area of an AP discs completely break off here , that won't happen with our discs

stonejedi

iTrader: (51)

Ian I have had my performance friction disc on track 5 times with there ZRated pads and the same disc from my car are now fitted on my wife's car with no problems or cracks what soever I know PF do a lot of heat treatment and development on there disc,my wife had your disc before she sold them to upgrade to my PF set up and they worked perfectly but I'm not to sure about doing track days with crack disc and then driving on the public roads it may not give you trouble straight away but in the long run it could be a problem just waiting to happen,but I also agree with you that a stuck caliper applying pressure constant on the same part of the brake disc can stress the already disc cracks and make hotspots on the disc.SJ.

300gnspitzer

Ian, this is not crazing, and as you know the discs are not drilled on the braking surfaces. These are cracks. The calipers are working properly. You say that the discs
will eventually crack, mine have done approx. 100 miles, how many miles can I expect to get from them?

300gnspitzer

Sorry I should have said, I don't drive the car on the road.

stonejedi

iTrader: (51)

Just asked a Good mate and he sent me this maybe your symptoms ::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Heat Checking
Heat checking is the appearance of numerous short, thin radial interruptions of the braking surface. Heat checking is a normal phenomena of the disc brake function.
This occurs as a result of the heating and cooling of the braking surface during normal operation of the brakes. Heat checks are not detrimental to the function or the performance of the braking system and no corrective action is required. These will frequently wear away and reform as a result of the normal braking process, however these can progress over time into cracks depending on such factors as, lining/disc wear, brake system balance and how hard the brakes are used.SJ.

300gnspitzer

The cracks are not on the braking surface, they start from the holes where the disc
and the bell bolt together.

Godspeed Brakes

iTrader: (259)

Yes I know what you mean , have seen it before and it will be down to the way you have bedded them in , if its a track only car you cannot bed them in as we recommend , so bedding them in on the track does put a lot of strain on them , and I would expect what you have described , but you will probably find they won't get any worse , as the heat they have now seen will have bedded them in , they should just not see that heat so quick from new.

Go on your next track day , keep an eye on them , and you should see it shouldn't get any worse.

Are you using the DS3000 pads ?

AS Performance

iTrader: (4)

Ian not sure why your so defensive as no comment was aimed at you but simply trying to save someone from a potential world of pain based on the information posted

the guy is talking about cracks on the mounting bolt holes NOT surface heat crazing - regardless of the reason its not right

there again what would i know about brake systems

Godspeed Brakes

iTrader: (259)

I was replying to this , as your making out that its not normal for discs other than drilled discs to crack , all discs will crack on the track , so it is normal , just drilled discs do it much worse.

It would seem in this instance the discs have not been bedded in as per our recommendations , and have been taken out onto the track , which will be the reason for the cracks , and now its gone through its heat cycle and are now bedded in shouldn't get any worse.

AS Performance

iTrader: (4)

that post stands on its own as far as i'm concerned..............surface crazing is totally normal and something totally different (but ultimately if left unchecked will result in cracked discs at which point they are generally scrap)

cracks emanating from any mounting bolt are NOT normal

not having a crystal ball i cant see his exact issue and have given advice on the information posted and will continue to do so in the best interests of the poster aside from the supplier/manufacture of any product involved - suggest you take a step back and read the post in the honest way it was written and stop trying to see some sort of comment aimed at yourself?????

Godspeed Brakes

iTrader: (259)

cracks in any other form or on any other rotor/disc are NOT normal and will almost certainly lead to problems and in extreme the disc will FAIL!!!!

Not really sure where your coming from with this statement , are you saying its not normal for any disc other than a drilled disc to crack ?
A quick google search will find every disc make with cracks in them , be it drilled grooved or even plain.

I'm not taking it as aimed at me , the way I am reading what you wrote is wrong , or am I reading it a wrong way ??

AS Performance

iTrader: (4)

differences of description??

your picture shows (quite normal) "surface crazing" a term used by myself and most of my peers...........

this picture shows a "crack", totally different IMO (found on google)
http://osi50racing.com/wp-content/up...rFace_-016.jpg

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Low grey iron discs will also NOT last very long and higher grey iron discs WILL

Godspeed Brakes

iTrader: (259)

Who has low grey iron discs ? we don't.

He has said his car is a track only , and he's only done 100 miles on them , even you can figure that out lol

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

That's why I've edited.

Did I say you had low grey iron discs?

Read it whole instead of quickly covering yourself by reading only what you want to read, Bit like previous replys.

Linksfahrer

Hello Lenny , I can help you on this . My simple aim is to qualify the Godspeed conversion for my needs which in normal use include brake phases from 100-120 mph to 0 on exits from German autobahns direct to traffic lights ( I do 2 a day of these). In this type of use I currently rate the std WRX brakes/pad combination Poor. (even when warmed up).
My test intention is first to make 5 x 60 mph-0 tests then a single 100 mph to 0 test on standard WRX with mintex MDB1748 pads. I will be using GPS and measuring disk temperatures and brake distances on a fixed road location then on the hot discs a 100-0 will be done legally close to my home here in Germany. The first part will be done on the first dry weekend and posted here. Then I will fit the 335 kit EBC blue using the same fluid type. Following 250 miles of communting to slowly bed in the discs , I will repeat the excercise. Irespective of the comments below , this test I hope will show if the conversion makes sense for road use. It will not tell you what will happens for a track.
All the best Linksfahrer

bustaMOVEs

iTrader: (31)

Upload to photo bucket or similar then copy img code and paste on here.

Linksfahrer

Just a matter of interest is your car a UK 300 ? and given the user name are you German ? Falls Ja , es ist ob ich ein gespiegltes bild bin , mein KfZ nummer ist GN X 300.

300gnspitzer

The car is a 2002 WRX, 300gn spitzer is the weight in grains, (7000grains to the lb.)
and shape (pointed) of a bullet, and no I'm not German