westy94wrx

My abs light is on constantly and brakes are sticking constantly could these be related or do i just need new calipers as when the cars ignition is off the front drivers caliper is locked solid so the abs wont cause my brakes to stick on will it? or do i just need new calipers?
need some help before i start throwing money at it.

alphaj12

If it was just the light i would say check your brake lights. Had it a couple of times and both brake lights have been out. New bulbs problem solved light goes out. Just a thought.

westy94wrx

no brake lights working fine and brakes stick aswell sometimes and sometimes dont stick????

westy94wrx

bump

jura11

iTrader: (7)

Hi matey you can have same problem like me and this will ABS sensor,but without the error codes,you never know which one is it...
Or maybe will be just ABS Tone ring...



Jura

westy94wrx

ok jura well would it cause my brakes stick on though?

budd

iTrader: (5)

if your on 2 pots it's likely to be the sliders that have seized, they can be freed off and greased, if your on 4 pots then it's going to be a seized piston (also possible with 2 pots) either way they need stripping and sorting ASAP, the ABS is likely to be a electrical issue, sensor, pump,dry joint or control module etc, but you need to get the codes checked to point you in the right direction or you could end up changing good parts.
BTW I've just removed the ABS from my '99MY UK turbo, I don't know if the system is the some as earlier cars but I have the whole lot off the car, sensors, pump etc so if you need anything (once you've found out what's wrong) drop me a line.

westy94wrx

ok thanks alot budd ill drop you a line as soon as i find out btw really nice scoob youve got

budd

iTrader: (5)

thanks, although looks can be deceptive, it looks good in pics but it's really a rough old thing, and it doesn't look much like my avatar pic anymore,
here's a couple of more recent pics

it looks like this at the moment

westy94wrx

bloody ell still looks good enough to me are you stripping it or something? and should i be able to slide the calipers very slightly or should they not be able to move??

budd

iTrader: (5)

the sliders should move back and forth free and easy, if the sliders are seized obviously they won't move at all and you'll need to free them off, clean and re-grease, it's pretty common for the sliders to seize up, it's usually caused by damaged slider seals/boots letting water in.
if the seals are damaged rebuild them with plenty of grease until you can fit new seals.

re my car I'm preparing it for the Nippon Challenge/Northern Sports and saloon car Championship so it's really stripped out at present, absolutley everything as been removed from the interior prior to the rollcage going in and it getting a coat of graphite grey paint,

westy94wrx

oh ryt thanks for the advice budd whats the spec of your car? and what do you get through your gears for example 1st 30mph 2nd 50mph etc

budd

iTrader: (5)

it's only a mild spec, the class it's entering is production based so mods are limeted to keep costs down, engine wise it's STi / RA spec VF24 turbo etc, 3 port boost solenoid, blobeye TMIC, std air box with HKS panel, walbro in tank feeding a Bosch 013 Motorsport external pump via a swirl pot, equal length manifolds, full de-cat, SS exhaust I've a few other bits to do to it like fitting a oil catch tank and fiiting a cold feed to the air box before it gets a ECUtek map.
Not to fussed about power output if it makes a torquey, reliable 300 I'll be happy, other mods are mainly MSA safely stuff, rollcage, GRP seat, harnesses, battery cut, rain light etc, I've also removed the ABS this will be re-piped and include a adjustable brake bias valve, brakes will be std 4 pots with race pads, it's currently got Ferodo in but I fancy trying some of the EBC blues everyone seems to rave about.
Suspension is std at the moment except for poly bushes and the re subframe locked down, I'll decide on dampers, springs and ARBs once I've driven it a bit more.
My main task is to get it as light as possible while increasing shell stiffness I'm aiming for 1100kgs whether I get near that remains to be seen.

As for in gear speeds I've no idea, it's on the std UK G/B and diffs, tyres are 235/40/17 Silverstone semi slicks these will probably have a effect on it gear speeds etc due to their slightly bigger rolling radius.