For those with the 335mm Godspeed conversion
For those with the 335mm Godspeed conversion
12 June 2010, 09:09 AM
#4
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Were the discs actually warped or was it just a build up of pad material because they weren't being used in the correct temperature range? 95% of brake judder is the latter.
12 June 2010, 09:47 AM
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I had bad brake judder called godspeed told me i need to change pads
So they sold me new pads at £130 but this made the brake judder even worse
Sent discs back to godspeed 2-3 weeks later they came back skimmed but they had been skimmed so much in some places there were no grooves in them
Local tuner told me "you can put them back on the car mate"
So i spent £750 on a ksport 330mm kit and not had one problem with it and will recommend the kit to anyone.
So they sold me new pads at £130 but this made the brake judder even worse
Sent discs back to godspeed 2-3 weeks later they came back skimmed but they had been skimmed so much in some places there were no grooves in them
Local tuner told me "you can put them back on the car mate"
So i spent £750 on a ksport 330mm kit and not had one problem with it and will recommend the kit to anyone.
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16 June 2010, 10:11 AM
#10
I somehow got a warped drive flange on one side, no idea how it happened, that gave the effect of a warped disc.
Ian skimmed my discs before I diagnosed the drive flange problem.
Replaced the hub assembly and all was well afterwards.
Ian skimmed my discs before I diagnosed the drive flange problem.
Replaced the hub assembly and all was well afterwards.
19 June 2010, 10:28 PM
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No. Even though they were on the worn side when changed recently with virtualy no grooves left one side.
Not cleaning the face of the hub properly when you put new discs on will make it run out of line & give the same symptoms as a warped disc.
Not cleaning the face of the hub properly when you put new discs on will make it run out of line & give the same symptoms as a warped disc.
20 June 2010, 03:18 PM
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When you say same symptoms, do you mean same wear as a warped disc, as when mine were put on, I didnt clean the face of the hub. It does seem to judder very slightly when rolling to a stop. Very slightly.
21 June 2010, 10:10 PM
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Your very slight judder may be the start of something far worse. This explains what's involved & has a section aimed at discs that have been fitted without properly cleaning the mounting surface of the disc and the vehicle’s hub.
http://www.powerbrake.co.za/download..._01_judder.pdf
22 June 2010, 09:10 PM
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A warped disc or one with axial run-out (inboard-outboard movement) will wear unevenly, produce hot spots & judder.
Your very slight judder may be the start of something far worse. This explains what's involved & has a section aimed at discs that have been fitted without properly cleaning the mounting surface of the disc and the vehicle’s hub.
http://www.powerbrake.co.za/download..._01_judder.pdf
Your very slight judder may be the start of something far worse. This explains what's involved & has a section aimed at discs that have been fitted without properly cleaning the mounting surface of the disc and the vehicle’s hub.
http://www.powerbrake.co.za/download..._01_judder.pdf
22 June 2010, 09:24 PM
#17
There are a number of reasons a disc could feel warped , a rusty hub face is the most common reason as some don't clean off the hub faces properly , or at all , when I have a car in to fit discs , we clean the hubs so they are like new , we use WD40 and emery cloth , and wire brush attachments in drills , they need to be perfect , a small runout on the hub , will multiply lots of times when you get to the outer edge of a disc , the bigger the disc , the worse it will get.
Another problem it could be , and more so with low mileage cars , is a rust build up between the disc and bell , it doesn't take a lot for you to be able to feel this , and will fix by taking them apart and cleaning up the bell and disc surface and refitting them back together.
A big problem with the Subaru 4 pot calipers is sticking or seized pistons , a sticking piston will cause the pad to drag on the disc whilst driving around , this can overheat the discs and cause warping.
It very rare for a disc to warp for no reason , its usually one of the above thats the route cause , most mechanics or garages will just blame a warped disc without looking into the real cause.
If you want to speak to me , give me a ring on 01656 723060 and I can run through any problems .
Cheers Ian
Another problem it could be , and more so with low mileage cars , is a rust build up between the disc and bell , it doesn't take a lot for you to be able to feel this , and will fix by taking them apart and cleaning up the bell and disc surface and refitting them back together.
A big problem with the Subaru 4 pot calipers is sticking or seized pistons , a sticking piston will cause the pad to drag on the disc whilst driving around , this can overheat the discs and cause warping.
It very rare for a disc to warp for no reason , its usually one of the above thats the route cause , most mechanics or garages will just blame a warped disc without looking into the real cause.
If you want to speak to me , give me a ring on 01656 723060 and I can run through any problems .
Cheers Ian
Last edited by Godspeed Brakes; 22 June 2010 at 09:27 PM.
22 June 2010, 09:28 PM
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Cheers Ian. I will take the discs off and have a good go at the mating faces this weekend. I havent long had them fitted, the case of a couple of months, so hopefully not too much damage done!
24 June 2010, 08:49 PM
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There are a number of reasons a disc could feel warped , a rusty hub face is the most common reason as some don't clean off the hub faces properly , or at all , when I have a car in to fit discs , we clean the hubs so they are like new , we use WD40 and emery cloth , and wire brush attachments in drills , they need to be perfect , a small runout on the hub , will multiply lots of times when you get to the outer edge of a disc , the bigger the disc , the worse it will get.
Another problem it could be , and more so with low mileage cars , is a rust build up between the disc and bell , it doesn't take a lot for you to be able to feel this , and will fix by taking them apart and cleaning up the bell and disc surface and refitting them back together.
A big problem with the Subaru 4 pot calipers is sticking or seized pistons , a sticking piston will cause the pad to drag on the disc whilst driving around , this can overheat the discs and cause warping.
It very rare for a disc to warp for no reason , its usually one of the above thats the route cause , most mechanics or garages will just blame a warped disc without looking into the real cause.
If you want to speak to me , give me a ring on 01656 723060 and I can run through any problems .
Cheers Ian
Another problem it could be , and more so with low mileage cars , is a rust build up between the disc and bell , it doesn't take a lot for you to be able to feel this , and will fix by taking them apart and cleaning up the bell and disc surface and refitting them back together.
A big problem with the Subaru 4 pot calipers is sticking or seized pistons , a sticking piston will cause the pad to drag on the disc whilst driving around , this can overheat the discs and cause warping.
It very rare for a disc to warp for no reason , its usually one of the above thats the route cause , most mechanics or garages will just blame a warped disc without looking into the real cause.
If you want to speak to me , give me a ring on 01656 723060 and I can run through any problems .
Cheers Ian
Or is my problem more than likely the dirty hub issue mentioned above? I didnt fit calipers and discs myself so not sure if hubs were cleaned or not before hand. Any physical signs from inspection that bearing is damaged? Will take discs off this weekend to examine hubs
On a seperate note, Is it a DIY job to replace a wheel bearing yourself or would it be a tricky job for novice DIY'er!
24 June 2010, 09:14 PM
#21
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You will need access to a press to change the bearing.
Wheel Bearing Replacement Guide with pictures
24 June 2010, 09:21 PM
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Grab the top & bottom of the wheel & wiggle to see if there is any play. Repeat from left side to right side. Spin the wheel & feel for any roughness & listen for any untoward noise. Check both sides to compare.
You will need access to a press to change the bearing.
Wheel Bearing Replacement Guide with pictures
You will need access to a press to change the bearing.
Wheel Bearing Replacement Guide with pictures
Thanks for the info
Sorry for thread hijack, When checking for play in the hub should brakes be engaged or just car jacked up with handbrake on?
24 June 2010, 09:45 PM
#23
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Do one end at a time & chock the wheels that will be staying on the ground. Jack up so wheels are suspended off the ground & all brakes off including handbrake when checking the rears. Otherwise the brakes being on will stop any slack in the bearing from showing.
23 January 2011, 12:58 PM
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Couple of years ago I "thought" my 335mm Godspeed disks had warped but the odd thing was the judder under breaking was only after 10-20 mins of driving, they wouldnt judder even under heavy breaking when cold.
Long story short......
Turned out one of the bolts holding the bell to the disk had sheared off and was now missing. I assume the disk was distorting in the region of the missing bolt when hot and hence the warped characteristics when breaking. Solution was simple, replaced bolt and it never juddered again.
So in short, check all bolts between bell and disc are present and tight!
Long story short......
Turned out one of the bolts holding the bell to the disk had sheared off and was now missing. I assume the disk was distorting in the region of the missing bolt when hot and hence the warped characteristics when breaking. Solution was simple, replaced bolt and it never juddered again.
So in short, check all bolts between bell and disc are present and tight!
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