Tom87

iTrader: (2)

I'm not talking about the actual disc surface but the centre hub part, the part the wheels bolt onto. My discs are pretty new but already the centre part is covered in the orange stuff. Is there a cure for this?

My Dad's suggested rubbing it all down and painting on (carefully lol) some of that stuff that turns rust black and seals it. Doesn't sound too bad but I don't really want them looking black and I'd rather try and keep the original metal/silver finish.

Anyone got any brighter ideas perhaps?

Cheers,

Tom

mattwrxCS

iTrader: (1)

Sand them and paint them silver!

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

As above, Hammerite smooth silver.

Tom87

iTrader: (2)

Might givie it a go, cheers chaps!

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Hammerite is good as it will cover any but the flakiest rust.

Use smooth type or it picks up muck

chrisdicko

iTrader: (21)

Would it be worth painting discs before they are fit to the car? i.e new 1 piece discs, and paint the centre pieces?

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I do mine.

chrisdicko

iTrader: (21)

Ok, I will look in to that thanks!

Silver or.....Blue to go with the car? Or maybe black?........or stick with silver?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Hammerite does the job. However, for it to last I found it best to remove said rust back to shiny metal, etch prime with acid #8, then spray two three coats of hammerite smooth of your favourite colour (mask the braking surface and mounting face for the wheels, as uneven layers of paint inbetween the mating surfaces of the wheel and hub may cause wheel-wobble).

I know Hammerite says paint directly onto rust and no need for primer , but I've always found its alot more durable if cleaned and etch primed beforehand.

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Your real name wouldn't be Adrian Monk, would it?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

Well, unlike our daytime TV detective I only check the front door is locked five times, and ensure I've engage neutral on the car 3 times before cranking (of which the first 10 secionds is done with the CPS disconnected).

Lets just say, the first time I followed what it said on the tin, it lasted about 2 to 3 years before they started to rust/flake and generally look a bit naff. The second time round, I took some advice and did it as mentioned above and after six years they are yet to rust or flake (rears - as the fronts have since been replaced).

Now, I may point out I don't own the car anymore, but it was something I admirably noted when fixing the handbrake shoes (which were binding) for beer money

There is also an MKV XR3 floating round a scrapyard somewhere, that had the same treatment I lay bet the disks centres are less rusty than the chassis

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Well, I'm convinced. Now where do you buy acid etch primer#8?

Tom87

iTrader: (2)

Cheers guys, I'm gonna give the whole Hammerite Smooth Silver thing ago at the weekend. Only quiery I've got with the silver paint though is I don't want it too look too "painted" if that makes any sense to you lol. What sort of silver does it come out like in the end?

tanyatriangles

iTrader: (2)

Smooth paint. You can't see it that well once a wheel is in place, but it does look better than rusty.

rossi_p

iTrader: (26)

Don't forget to post up some pictures after you've done it

RB5 Boyo

I cleaned mine up with a wire brush on a grinder, then primed them and sprayed a few coats of Simoniz satin black paint on....im happy with the result and its nice and subtlem yet clean and fresh. Even done the calipers the same colour for the stealthy look



I know the discs look rusty in the photo above but its just because the car had been washed and left for a few days before removing the wheel, the centre part of the disc is spot on!!