Brake stopping help
#6
THE braking specialist
iTrader: (259)
Hi
What year is your car , it could have caliper issues but overall they are good , it's rare to see Pistons sticking , but they do have issues with corrosion under the pad plates causing the pads to jam in the calipers.
With normal driving , fluid should be changed about every 18 months , harder driving or track day require changing it more frequent ,
If you not getting very good bite , or the pads are fading quite quickly , a performance pad would make the world of difference
Hope this helps
Cheers Ian
What year is your car , it could have caliper issues but overall they are good , it's rare to see Pistons sticking , but they do have issues with corrosion under the pad plates causing the pads to jam in the calipers.
With normal driving , fluid should be changed about every 18 months , harder driving or track day require changing it more frequent ,
If you not getting very good bite , or the pads are fading quite quickly , a performance pad would make the world of difference
Hope this helps
Cheers Ian
#7
Scooby Regular
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You could have cheap nasty pads fitted .not everyone in Subaru ownership put oem branded pads or Kevlar replacements in.. most normal joe`s think £30 is a good price for pads well maybe in a mondeo lol not a sti
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#9
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Seeing you just had the car. Has it been stood for a long period of time (like on a dealer forcourt)??
Before you do anything take a simple look:
Take a look at the outer and inner surfaces of each brake disc; including the side you cannot see. Is the entire braking area of the disc clean and shiny?? If not, and you have wide bands of rust you have reduced braking performance, mostly noticed when braking hard at high speed.
Doesn't matter how good the pads are or any other component for that they won't perform if the braking surfaces are corroded or caliper has seized.
Before you do anything take a simple look:
Take a look at the outer and inner surfaces of each brake disc; including the side you cannot see. Is the entire braking area of the disc clean and shiny?? If not, and you have wide bands of rust you have reduced braking performance, mostly noticed when braking hard at high speed.
Doesn't matter how good the pads are or any other component for that they won't perform if the braking surfaces are corroded or caliper has seized.
Last edited by ALi-B; 14 August 2015 at 09:06 AM.
#12
Thanks for your input everyone. In response to this no it has not been stood its been regularly used and no rust on discs at all. Tiny lip that's about it.
Pads I have no idea what brand so this may well be the answer need changing/upgrading to something decent with a fluid change. The pistons are working fine this i know as i had this issue on my bugeye. May well strip it down though and investigate.
Also need to get rid of the rota drift grids with the stretched tyres as this is obviously not helping the issue!
Pads I have no idea what brand so this may well be the answer need changing/upgrading to something decent with a fluid change. The pistons are working fine this i know as i had this issue on my bugeye. May well strip it down though and investigate.
Also need to get rid of the rota drift grids with the stretched tyres as this is obviously not helping the issue!
#14
Discs are good there is no lip and pads are half worn. Fluid I have no idea when it was last changed. I am going to get perfect touch in Hoddesdon to check them over as my car wil be there having a full 4 wheel alignment done as im replacing the standard widetrack suspension with rb320 bilsteins.
Its definitley a lack of bite, as I have been driving my wifes mk5 golf gt tdi and the brakes stop you instantly nothing like the delayed stop on the scooby!
If it turns out I need new pads/discs then I will deffo be in touch Ian. With regard to fluid which do I need? I dont track the car just my daily driver.
Its definitley a lack of bite, as I have been driving my wifes mk5 golf gt tdi and the brakes stop you instantly nothing like the delayed stop on the scooby!
If it turns out I need new pads/discs then I will deffo be in touch Ian. With regard to fluid which do I need? I dont track the car just my daily driver.
Last edited by jonnyboy82; 18 November 2015 at 09:38 PM.
#15
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Any fluid thats dot 4 is fine you can use 5.1 (not5). The important thing with fluid to change it regularly to maintain its high boiling point (wet boiling point) and purge any air.
I've always used Tetrosyl or Pagig fluid. If the car isn't being tracked there's little point in using a racing fluid (which ironically doesn't have any better wet boiling point to a regular fluid).
I've always used Tetrosyl or Pagig fluid. If the car isn't being tracked there's little point in using a racing fluid (which ironically doesn't have any better wet boiling point to a regular fluid).
#18
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
If there is air in your brake fluid, then this exhibit symptoms similar to those you are describing.
Do the brakes bite initially but then fail to brake harder, the more you press the pedal? Or do they lask initial bite, like there is a delay and then they perform once you have the pedal depressed further?
As others have said, check/replace pads, replace fluid, bleed properly/thoroughly.
#20
Sti brembo brakes are not good brakes in standard form tbh I've tried grooved discs and Kevlar pads,decent fluid ect and tbh it didn't make any difference it's really hard to see why they are so bad as the discs are huge and the calipers do look more than upto the job, but as said when u drive other modern cars they seem much sharper than the brembo set up servo 'd up or not. My last ditch effort with the brembo's will be carbotech xp8 pads as these I'm told will deffo give some bite and pull the car up! We will see.
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