The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Having sort advice left, right and centre it appears that the Inlet Manifold will need to come off to fit the new silicone induction hose . The WRX intercooler is on and going great guns. All I need to do is the undertray and fit new rubber seal.

Now this Inlet manifold is an area that I have ventured into yet, so I am after some advice or a "This is how you do it" guide. An extra pair of hands would also come in handy if you know what your doing too . I may even re-paint it while it's off.

Are there any gaskets etc that I may need to renew? I have access to a full work shop.

Big Brakes, Lee, Si, anyone?

Bacon Butties on me.

DannyBoy007

iTrader: (7)

No idea mate, can't be that hard though

sammyh

iTrader: (1)

All the inlet manifold gaskets for a start apart for the one for the throttle body.

mervil

iTrader: (5)

I've heard you can get a silicone one in w/o taking it off Ian but it's a squeeze, have you got the OEM black plastic one?? If so you can cut that out!!

carl.woolford

it quite an easy job to get the manifold off, only need the two inlet manifold to head gaskets, i might be available to give a hand where you based

KJD Mk1

iTrader: (3)

If the manifold is coming off dont forget to fit some insulator spacers it will also make the fitting of your new pipe a whole lot easier

evil.soup

iTrader: (1)

Wish i could help you out Ian mate to return the favour, but i wouldnt be much use in terms of knowledge! Looked pretty straight forward though, easy to say mind you!

bluerigster

iTrader: (9)

To remove the inlet manifold isn’t too difficult make sure you disconnect the wiring harness from the various sensors. Also when removing the fuel lines disconnect the battery.

Parts to disconnect
1. Fuel line supply from fuel filter
2. Fuel line return
3. Petrol tank breather to emission canister
4. Wiring harness clip near battery
5. Water temperature sensor connector for interior gauge on cross pipe from radiator
6. Water temperature for sensor connector for ECU on cross pipe from radiator
7. Knock sensor connector from top of block near piston 4
8. Oil pressure sensor connector above oil pump
9. Water header tank
10. Throttle cable
11. 4 bolts either side of inlet manifold
12. Brake booster pipe the servo (nearside on top of inlet manifold)
13. Emission canister blow by pipe
14. Breather pipes off each cylinder head

That’s roughly all the various pieces to disconnect, once the manifold is unbolted disconnect the two water temp sensors, oil pressure sensor and knock sensor connectors form underneath the manifold. If you respray the manifold use an etch primer this will prevent the paint flaking off like the original Sti paint. With regards to gaskets if you fit inlet spacers you need four inlet gaskets and a new throttle inlet gasket.

The Stitcher

iTrader: (12)

hi ian only now seen this but it's what the rigster said in a nut shell it's not as hard as it looks just make sure you note where all the wires came from that you disconnet i use a roll of masking tape and write whats for what on there then stick it to each connection plug or pipe
if the manifold is off you could also go for carl davey spacers which as kev said it would be rude not too

if i had time on my hands i would give a hand but im so busy with mine and starting the new business

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Spacers are a bit tastey on price . So normal ones are on the cards! I'll have to tackle this when I get some freetime.

Thanks for the help all